Author Topic: Ultimarc U360 Mod to add rotary function&Top-fire/LED (Read 29968 times)

Bender · « **Reply #40 on:** May 23, 2008, 11:07:52 am »

Quote from: Stub on May 23, 2008, 09:03:59 am

I am testing with an LED wiz. Only way to go, I will most likely have 4 of them because each only will handle only 10 RGBs.

I was thinking about a wacky idea, using the steel shaft as the ground. It would save a wire. Anyone think I'm nuts?

Quote from: Franco B on May 23, 2008, 10:59:43 am

Good thinking Batman

that's just what I was going to say

This is already way more complicated than the top- rotary I started with.
So I'm going to stick with the one color LED or I'll never get this thing done

But you never know, that is a great solution Stub!
there is still the rotary connection on the bottom to solve with that approach
although I have seen some 2 and 3 lead bi-color LED's around, How does that work?

Bender · « **Reply #41 on:** May 27, 2008, 01:15:05 pm »

Ok I Got some LED's From GGG
They came really quickly!
but now I want to know if there is an easy way to test them without hooking up the led wiz and the computer, can I just hook them up to a battery?

Franco B · « **Reply #42 on:** May 27, 2008, 01:46:50 pm »

Now come Bender, you know they will work, you don't need to test them

You just want to look at the pretty lights

From looking at the GGG site those LEDs need between 3.0-3.5v. You should be able to connect two 1.5v AA batterys together to power one.

If the LED doesnt light, reverse the polarity. Dont worry, you cant damage the LED etc as the diode stops the juice from flowing the wrong way. One of the LED 'legs' should be shorter than the other, thats the negative (there may also be a flat on the LED body next to the negative)

Stub · « **Reply #43 on:** May 27, 2008, 03:52:22 pm »

I cannot seem to find any 4 conductor socket plugs that could actually fit inside the shaft with terminals. Nor can I find a molded one that would work.

My thought is to friction fit the male portion of the plug in the stick. If I am going to do that why dont I use a 6 conductor 3.5mm instead? The socket is large at 12mm wide at its widest point, and 15.6mm deep, but on this would make a nice mounting surface. See attached

With it stacking up and the pcb moving back further I still this we are in range of its tolerance of what it can programatically correct.

Twin-X · « **Reply #44 on:** May 27, 2008, 05:04:58 pm »

Quote from: Stub on May 27, 2008, 03:52:22 pm

I cannot seem to find any 4 conductor socket plugs that could actually fit inside the shaft with terminals. Nor can I find a molded one that would work.

Cant the stick itself not function as a conductor?

Stub · « **Reply #45 on:** May 27, 2008, 06:35:22 pm »

It can, but I am wondering if I can go all the way and install 3way leds and a topfire. The tricolor to go with my 32 3way buttons.

Also it would remove any odd things happening as people handle the switch ground. If there were for instance a little bit of stray charge on someone this is connected to the ground for all the components. And they use the ground a the reference to the circuit.

I may be worrying over nothing, but I want to try to do it more professional.

Bender · « **Reply #46 on:** May 27, 2008, 09:16:13 pm »

Quote from: Franco B on May 27, 2008, 01:46:50 pm

Now come Bender, you know they will work, you don't need to test them You just want to look at the pretty lights

AHHHHHHHH The PRettty Prettty lights!!!!!
I do love the pretty lights

Thanks, Guys
I hooked em up to 2 AA bateries and it worked great

Good news Pic of the top fire and LED version very SOON!

Bender · « **Reply #47 on:** May 29, 2008, 02:17:51 pm »

hi Franco,

I'm doing my LED by your tutorial on Reroblast
all is well except the ball top
What diameter drill bit do you use to drill through the insert 5mm? and how deep do you past that? is it important for it to be just the added length of the led of is it ok if there is a little air above the led?

Thanks

Bender

Franco B · « **Reply #48 on:** May 30, 2008, 07:27:16 am »

Hi buddy, sorry for the late response, I haven't been on since yesterday.

Do you mean that the nuts in your ball tops have a solid end and you need to drill it out?

My ball tops were hollow but I had to drill some closed ones out for someone else. A 5mm bit will be fine. It doesnt matter if you drill a few millimeters past the solid end. In fact, it may help as when I made my shafts I made the threaded section a couple of mm short as other wise the ball top would not have screwed on all the way as the LED would have bottomed out in the ball. If you are using your stock shafts they will be 1.5mm longer so by drilling a little deeper it will give you a little more clearance for the LED to sit in.

Also, as the guide says don't forget to remove the shoulder from the LED otherwise it wont fit down the thread.

I don't know how you are holding your balls (ooo-er!) but make sure you don't damage them when you clamp them. I used a V vice with some rubber to protect my balls. (

)

Bender · « **Reply #49 on:** May 30, 2008, 09:50:32 am »

Yeah I'm real careful with my balls too!!!!

something about putting my balls in a vice just isn't right no matter what the context

no really thanks for the Info!!

zallax · « **Reply #50 on:** July 22, 2008, 04:39:54 pm »

I have been eagerly been awaiting the end result of this mod. Any new info on it?

The LED mod would be nice but I am just drooling over the added rotary capabilty.

Franco B · « **Reply #51 on:** July 22, 2008, 05:18:43 pm »

I think I pretty much have it sussed for adding a four pole jack/plug for RGB LED (could also be used for single LED + topfire). Im going to order some parts tomorrow for a couple of prototypes.

Bender is your man as regards to the rotary function.

Bender · « **Reply #52 on:** July 23, 2008, 12:42:58 am »

Sorry for the hold up on this I've been swamped with work this summer and It doesn't look like I'll get back to it till September
the 3 things that you need to do are:

1. extend the shaft by about a 1/2 an inch at either 1/4 inch or 6mm and get the us digital encoder to fit that shaft extention

2.create a post and slot pieces to let the joystick spin, but not the encoder

3. extend the base so the PCB fits over the the extended shaft (this is much easier if you use a restrictor because the full through distance increases if you don't and you'll need a larger diameter magnet)

Stub · « **Reply #53 on:** July 23, 2008, 09:10:55 am »

Why the extension? So you have room for the plate and encoder? I had been playing with finding a way to add the encoder without extending the shaft. I think it is very workable.

Bender · « **Reply #54 on:** July 23, 2008, 03:52:51 pm »

yes for the plate and the encoder
I'd love to know what you came up with
If you aren't lengthening the shaft you must be removing some of the existing part, no?

by the way I have completed the top fire and the Light up (one color LED) mods

Avrus · « **Reply #55 on:** July 23, 2008, 05:08:54 pm »

Andy, I'm not really concerned about top fire but I'd sure love to have a U360 with rotary. That was the one thing that kept me from buying two for my cab.

Stub · « **Reply #56 on:** July 24, 2008, 12:43:22 pm »

I know what the difference is, my design is completely in the way of the restrictor plate. I was up in the air on using one, i ordered a octagional to test and it does not fit correctly. I will have to drill out the holes some. After that it killed some of my interest in the plate.

What I cant figure out is a durable design for both a plug for topfire and using an optical encoder like you have.

JinxedSoul · « **Reply #57 on:** August 18, 2008, 12:51:04 am »

Andy i will buy rotary u360 when they come out for sure with or with top fire.

In the mean time does anyone know of a good rotary joystick for heavy barrel, xybots and such?

ArcadeBliss · « **Reply #58 on:** January 05, 2009, 03:25:34 pm »

So, I have been watching this thread very closely. Any news from you Bender or Andy?

Bender · « **Reply #59 on:** January 05, 2009, 05:12:18 pm »

Quote from: ArcadeBliss on January 05, 2009, 03:25:34 pm

So, I have been watching this thread very closely. Any news from you Bender or Andy?

Like I said I have the top fire and the rotary (separate sticks) working but this project and tutorial are on hold for a while till I finish building my current project "Benderama"
I want to use this in that project so it will be a priority once I finish the build

ArcadeBliss · « **Reply #60 on:** July 10, 2009, 02:19:09 am »

Franco, any chance of you putting the led in a U360 back into production?

Quote from: Franco B on July 22, 2008, 05:18:43 pm

I think I pretty much have it sussed for adding a four pole jack/plug for RGB LED (could also be used for single LED + topfire). Im going to order some parts tomorrow for a couple of prototypes.

Bender is your man as regards to the rotary function.

Stub · « **Reply #61 on:** July 10, 2009, 04:25:11 am »

Im still interested in buying

moonchilddave · « **Reply #62 on:** July 23, 2009, 06:02:15 pm »

I'd be interested in buying as well!

brandon · « **Reply #63 on:** August 12, 2009, 05:47:03 pm »

Quote from: Bender on January 05, 2009, 05:12:18 pm

Quote from: ArcadeBliss on January 05, 2009, 03:25:34 pm
So, I have been watching this thread very closely. Any news from you Bender or Andy?

Like I said I have the top fire and the rotary (separate sticks) working but this project and tutorial are on hold for a while till I finish building my current project "Benderama"
I want to use this in that project so it will be a priority once I finish the build

Hi Bender

would you mind telling me what kind of encoder you used for the rotary mod? I'm trying to make some DIY rotaries myself.. at this point I dont care if they're mechanical or optical. If I go optical I'm hoping to add some sort of mechanical detent that can be engaged or disengaged depending on the game.

Bender · « **Reply #64 on:** August 12, 2009, 09:49:14 pm »

the 7th post in this thread has a link to the encoder I'm using

let us know how it goes

brandon · « **Reply #65 on:** August 12, 2009, 10:58:05 pm »

Thanks Bender

I guess I skimmed right by it.

zallax · « **Reply #66 on:** September 09, 2009, 01:41:46 pm »

Quote from: Bender on January 05, 2009, 05:12:18 pm

Quote from: ArcadeBliss on January 05, 2009, 03:25:34 pm
So, I have been watching this thread very closely. Any news from you Bender or Andy?

Like I said I have the top fire and the rotary (separate sticks) working but this project and tutorial are on hold for a while till I finish building my current project "Benderama"
I want to use this in that project so it will be a priority once I finish the build

With Benderama now out in the wild, any chance we can see a tutorial on how you built that U360 rotary?

Bender · « **Reply #67 on:** September 09, 2009, 02:36:01 pm »

yeah, my next step is to try to get both features into one stick!!!!!
It's been a while since I messed with it hopefully I remember where I was

I'll have to do a little better documenting this time

JustMichael · « **Reply #68 on:** October 15, 2009, 04:08:37 am »

AndyWarne,
With the U360, can the electronics currently sense the direction the magnetic field is running (where "north" and "south" are) as well as where the magnet is? I was just thinking if the U360 could tell where north and south are (like a compass), then you could use electronics to sense the spinning of the shaft. If it currently can't, what about adding a some HMC1501's or HMC1512's to measure the angle of the magnetic field? This could give a way of sensing the shaft spinning without having to add an encoder wheel to the shaft and the optical sensor.

AndyWarne · « **Reply #69 on:** October 15, 2009, 04:59:21 pm »

Quote from: JustMichael on October 15, 2009, 04:08:37 am

AndyWarne,
With the U360, can the electronics currently sense the direction the magnetic field is running (where "north" and "south" are) as well as where the magnet is? I was just thinking if the U360 could tell where north and south are (like a compass), then you could use electronics to sense the spinning of the shaft. If it currently can't, what about adding a some HMC1501's or HMC1512's to measure the angle of the magnetic field? This could give a way of sensing the shaft spinning without having to add an encoder wheel to the shaft and the optical sensor.

No. If you think about it, if this were the case, the joystick position would go all over the place if you rotated the handle.

Andy

Ummon · « **Reply #70 on:** October 17, 2009, 05:42:49 pm »

Is it possible (or plausible) to have a non-magnetic strip in the middle, effectively separating two half-discs each magnetic, and have the software discern between the two?

Perhaps Bender's mod would be easier and more sensible to adopt?

Franco B · « **Reply #71 on:** October 17, 2009, 06:26:44 pm »

I think Bender may have something to show you fairly soon

wink

ryantheleach · « **Reply #72 on:** October 19, 2009, 02:28:19 pm »

Thread has been bookmarked.

I seriously want this bad.

still need to get cash together to build by arcade machine tho but i havn't given up, being a student doesn't help.

brandon · « **Reply #73 on:** October 19, 2009, 03:08:54 pm »

That would be SO sweet! The versatility of the U360 (which I do not own yet) plus rotary! Then we'd just need a lightgun solution that actually worked and we would be in arcade heaven

EDIT:

Holy Crap! AimTrak? Wow.. a lot has happened since I've been away! :p

JustMichael · « **Reply #74 on:** October 19, 2009, 04:18:01 pm »

Quote from: AndyWarne on October 15, 2009, 04:59:21 pm

Quote from: JustMichael on October 15, 2009, 04:08:37 am
AndyWarne,
With the U360, can the electronics currently sense the direction the magnetic field is running (where "north" and "south" are) as well as where the magnet is? I was just thinking if the U360 could tell where north and south are (like a compass), then you could use electronics to sense the spinning of the shaft. If it currently can't, what about adding a some HMC1501's or HMC1512's to measure the angle of the magnetic field? This could give a way of sensing the shaft spinning without having to add an encoder wheel to the shaft and the optical sensor.
No. If you think about it, if this were the case, the joystick position would go all over the place if you rotated the handle.

Andy

Ok. The current electronics do not sense the direction of the magnetic field just the strength of it to tell where the stick is. What about adding some electronics to sense the direction of the magnetic field? I believe the HMC 1512 can sense 180º of change and then you would also need something to tell when the direction of the magnetic field has reversed (to give the full 360º). The U360 would then be one step closer to the ultimate joystick.

Franco B · « **Reply #75 on:** October 19, 2009, 04:44:11 pm »

Quote from: brandon on October 19, 2009, 03:08:54 pm

That would be SO sweet! The versatility of the U360 (which I do not own yet) plus rotary! Then we'd just need a lightgun solution that actually worked and we would be in arcade heaven

EDIT:

Holy Crap! AimTrak? Wow.. a lot has happened since I've been away! :p

Ha ha! I completely thought you was having a dig then!

Stub · « **Reply #76 on:** October 19, 2009, 05:23:18 pm »

My thoughts:

The current magnet is polarized axially. That gives an even magnetic field in each direction. If you used a magnet that is polarized perpendicular to the shaft and the sensor, you could use several components to measure field direction, but as you rotate it the density of the magnetic field would vary (stronger field near the poles). this would cause problems with the field intensity sensor for direction. I am not sure if it could be overcome via some complicated processing based on the relationship of the two types of sensors, but I would estimate it would be difficult at the least.

brandon · « **Reply #77 on:** October 19, 2009, 05:36:14 pm »

Quote from: Franco B on October 19, 2009, 04:44:11 pm

Quote from: brandon on October 19, 2009, 03:08:54 pm
That would be SO sweet! The versatility of the U360 (which I do not own yet) plus rotary! Then we'd just need a lightgun solution that actually worked and we would be in arcade heaven

EDIT:

Holy Crap! AimTrak? Wow.. a lot has happened since I've been away! :p

Ha ha! I completely thought you was having a dig then!

haha.. no, I just haven't been here in a while. I'm glad to see that someone is finally working on something for lightgun lovers like myself. I still have my doubts about, Topgun/wiimote style tracking but I hope to be proven wrong!

jtslade · « **Reply #78 on:** February 23, 2010, 01:41:05 am »

any update on the U360 with rotary function? Since the other projects for Andy are out (Aim Track) is this what he is working on now...

mimic · « **Reply #79 on:** February 23, 2010, 08:38:30 pm »

Quote from: jtslade on February 23, 2010, 01:41:05 am

any update on the U360 with rotary function? Since the other projects for Andy are out (Aim Track) is this what he is working on now...

Yeah, I would love that too. I don't care much about having top fire with it, but rotary on top of all other modes would be fantastic. I'm very curious if Andy is working on something new, or taking well deserved break?


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