Looking for pre-build input

[crummy]

Hi all!

I'm looking to start work on my second cabinet soon (first was a test-the-waters bartop). I learned a lot from the first one, and by that I mean I made a lot of mistakes, so I'd like to get some input before I start putting saw to wood.

Specifically, what is wrong with my design? What potential issues could I have, or what should I be wary of? I'm pretty inexperienced at woodwork so I'm trying to keep things relatively simple.



The first cabinet was a pretty simply layout, jostick+6 buttons. I'm looking to go a little more complex this time, and here's the current layout. I'm a little unsure of the trackball button locations - is there a more commonly used location, such as above the trackball?

Thanks for the input!

Edit: Oh, and I'm looking at this computer to run everything. Can MAME be compiled with dual core support? Any large performance increases?

[FunWithFire]

I would move the trackball down to where the center of the three buttons below it are, and then reposition the three buttons to line up with the player 1 and 2 buttons at the top. That will give you more spin room for Golden Tee type games. Plus you wouldn't have to worry about your hand hitting or resting on the buttons with games like Marble Madness and such.

[shardian]

ditch the trackball buttons all together and use p1 or p2 buttons 345 for trackball games. That is where the trackball game buttons would be on a real machine anyways.

[crummy]

ditch the trackball buttons all together and use p1 or p2 buttons 345 for trackball games. That is where the trackball game buttons would be on a real machine anyways.

Great, that's good to know. I suppose I could bind those keys to mouse1/2/3 for windows, as well.

[u_rebelscum]

Specifically, what is wrong with my design? What potential issues could I have, or what should I be wary of?

Is it a little low?  Will the marquee block the top part of the screen?  Keep in mind I'm 5'11": I'd move the CP (probably eveything) up 4 to 6 inches and the either the marquee back or another ~6" up (for a total of 10"-14").

Again, I'm going on my height, but most arcade cabs have CPs ~38-41" off the ground, AFAIK.  And I couldn't stand a lit-up marquee in my face, let alone blocking part of the screen, lit or not lit.

I'm a little unsure of the trackball button locations - is there a more commonly used location, such as above the trackball?

I'd do as shardian said, but map mame so both P1 & P2 buttons work.  If you want the "TB buttons" to be mouse buttons in windows or other games, though, some people might get confused without separate mouse buttons.

Anyway, most arcade trackballs were on the left and/or right side of the TB.

Can MAME be compiled with dual core support? Any large performance increases?

Yes it is compiled that way by default, but you need to "set OSDPROCESSORS=2" ("set OSDPROCESSORS=4" for a quad core, ect) and enable multithreading in mame (-mt at commandline or multithreading 1 in mame.ini) to get the full effect.  Even so, most games only get a small increase (2%-10% AFAIK).  OTOH, a few games get bigger changes (links below).  Having a 64 bit OS and 64 bit mame sees a big change on the slower games, too. 

Check this thread and the links to the mame32 benchmark page.

edit: punctuation, spelling

[fjl]

That's a nice design I like it. I see you're also using a 3d program to design it. You can view mine here. I have yet to start it though.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=62550.0

[Anubis_au]

Specifically, what is wrong with my design?

G'day crummy.

Since you asked for opinions, to my eyes, the cab looks a little too wide for the height, or a little short for the width... The cab looks very much like the cab Mountain started with in his project, but there's just *something* about the 3D sketch-up you posted that, to me, isn't 100%. It's a great shaped cab, but I reckon if it were slightly narrower, or taller, it would look better.

My $0.02.

Aside from all that, good luck wth the cab build. We will be watching.

[solderguy1]

Ignore all those jokers that posted above, they don't know what they're talking about.  The only problem is that your cab, monitor, and PC are too transparent.  Build something people can't see through.

[crummy]

Ignore all those jokers that posted above, they don't know what they're talking about.  The only problem is that your cab, monitor, and PC are too transparent.  Build something people can't see through.

Oh man. You would not BELIEVE how hard it is to sand to that transparency.

I'll look at increasing the height - the top half is pretty much built to the height of the monitor so I guess I'll add some length in the body

[DaveMMR]

Too transparent?  You should make it more transparent if you ask me!  Heh.   Actually, "Saint's Dream Machine" on the examples page used to link to a cab made out of plexiglass or something.  I can't seem to find it right now.

Back on-topic: I like your design, crummy and I do agree that you should add a couple of inches of height to it.  Also, I'd too ditch the mouse buttons.  I personally believe they're a needless and redundant addition to a panel (you can wire/program your main buttons quite easily and they are in a much more comfortable position for gaming).  And yes, move that ball down a couple of notches and you'll have plenty of play room.   Overall, solid design! 

[crummy]

Thanks a lot for all the input - I raised the control panel and marquee slightly, and today cut the sides. My god that's lot of MDF dust everywhere...

My next issue is that my television does not turn back on after a power outage. Is there an easy solution to this?

Edit: I see from the wiki this is not an unusual issue. I really hope I haven't made a bad mistake here, the TV is pretty nice and I'd be sad to lose it.

Edit2: Oh, awesome. I've been able to achieve auto-power-on functionality by jamming a bit of paper in the power button. I'll hot glue it for a more permanent solution later.

[DaOld Man]

Thanks a lot for all the input - I raised the control panel and marquee slightly, and today cut the sides. My god that's lot of MDF dust everywhere...

Ahhhhhhh.........
Another one bites the dust!

[crummy]

Construction has started, and is progressing (slowly). I have some additional questions, though.

I purchased two U360's, and will have eight buttons wired to each (6 + start + coin).  I'd like a pause/admin button as well, so I figured I'd wire that to middle-mouse button on the trackball I have.

This will work fine for MAME, as I can configure start1+start2 to exit (or anything else I'd like) - but for other emulators I don't have that much configuration.

On the previous cabinet I built I used the shift functionality of the ipac, though I'm not using one now. Essentially I'd like an equivalent solution (software?) to save me from buyin another ipac. Does anyone know of one?

[Kaytrim]

IIRC the U360s have shift capability look into the documentation on them.

TTFN
Kaytrim

[crummy]

IIRC the U360s have shift capability look into the documentation on them.

TTFN
Kaytrim

That's absolutely perfect, I upgraded my firmware and it looks like that's what I'll go for.

I've ordered my control panel artwork, but soon I'll be looking at side art. Probably something along these lines:


The art I'd order from mamemarquees.com would likely fill from left to right but only as high up and down as it needs to - the rest of the side would be painted black. Am I going to have an issue with the edge of the artwork? Will it be obvious? Can I print a transparent colour?

[Anubis_au]

That would look awesome on the side of a cab...

[crummy]

That would look awesome on the side of a cab...

Yeah, well hopefully it'll work. I found a really hi-res version of it on NASA's website, but I'm just worried about the top and bottom edges of the artwork, and how they'll blend with the painted side.

[crummy]

I am realising that I have no idea how to attach the marquee. I'm pretty sure everyone runs into this issue at some point or another, so... how did you do it?

(I'll probably get marquee artwork from mamemarquees and sandwich it between plexiglass as he recommends.)

Edit: I see a "Marquee retainer" at happ:
http://www.happcontrols.com/amusement/acesor/49100000.htm
I'm not entirely sure how this would be attached though. Does this simply go on the front of my speaker block/top block?

[javeryh]

I am realising that I have no idea how to attach the marquee. I'm pretty sure everyone runs into this issue at some point or another, so... how did you do it?

(I'll probably get marquee artwork from mamemarquees and sandwich it between plexiglass as he recommends.)

Edit: I see a "Marquee retainer" at happ:
http://www.happcontrols.com/amusement/acesor/49100000.htm
I'm not entirely sure how this would be attached though. Does this simply go on the front of my speaker block/top block?

L-brackets spraypainted black or you could use a "marquee retainer" that Happs sells.  THIS is how I did mine.

[unclet]

maybe this will help ...... please pardon my drawing skills ....

[crummy]

maybe this will help ...... please pardon my drawing skills ....

That's perfect, thanks.

Also, thanks javeryh - the step by step pictures are great.

[javeryh]

Also, thanks javeryh - the step by step pictures are great.

No problem!