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Author Topic: Galaxian Mame Conversion  (Read 48201 times)

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csa3d

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Galaxian Mame Conversion
« on: October 15, 2006, 10:40:12 am »
After being a regular lurker for the past 3 years, I have finally commited to begining my project.

The  goal  of my project is to retain the look and feel of an old Galaxian cab, yet be able to play as many games and consoles as possible given the size of the cabinet and control panel.  I was really drawn to the shape and artwork of this cab, and plan to keep with the feel and look as much as possible.

This weekend at the Mesquite, TX Super Auctions I picked up the base cabinet for $150.  I was originally going to build this unit from scratch, but I feel a bit better having a good starting base for this project as opposed to figuring it all out as I go along.

The cabinet contains a full set of "innards", but will not boot playable.  The game has a disturbing speaker hum, but does make game sounds as if the board has booted but the CRT does not come to life.

As for appearance, the sides have minimal chipping around the edges, and are more or less good to go.  The front kickplate has waterdamage at the bottom, and some extraneous bolts for coindoor security that need addressed.  The coindoor has some slight rust, and some extra holes to be patched, but overall will be a good candidate for reconditioning.  The back is actually the most chipped up.  Again, it's the back, and me being "particular" will surely fix that as well.  The side art is not bad, but not pristine, so I plan to get reproduction art printed and mounted after I sand down the unit.  The glasses are in pretty good shape.  There are no cracks that I have found yet, and the glass art, while not "spanking new" looks well kept.

One of the main customizations I will be performing to the cabinet is to replace the old CRT with a bright new LCD monitor.  Inspired by Edge's rotation LCD system, I plan to use a similar setup to allow me to play vertical and horizontal games with as much screen realestate as possible.  I am not concerned about keeping "Old school feel" of the blury screens, but I do want to conceal the new technology inside the design of the old cabinet so it does not stick out like a soar thumb.  I will be keeping the original monitor slant of the cab, and am aware of LCD viewing angle warning as well.  This paragraph is loaded because I'm pretty sure to get some hatemail from this choice.

Now for some pictures.  This is how It rolled back from the auction, and I leave you with my original 3d mockup.  I will likely change the 3d mockup as I go along, including the number of buttons and controls now that I have something "real" to guage comfortable playing area.

« Last Edit: May 31, 2010, 10:56:22 am by csa3d »

csa3d

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion
« Reply #1 on: October 15, 2006, 10:42:38 am »
Here is my original 3D mockup and where I'm heading with this project more or less, plus/minus the exact control scheme.


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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion
« Reply #2 on: October 15, 2006, 11:26:02 am »
Like the hinged CP/keyboard drawer idea, very cool.

From the looks of that mockup you have waaay too much time on your hands.

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion
« Reply #3 on: October 15, 2006, 11:47:56 am »

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion
« Reply #4 on: October 15, 2006, 12:02:20 pm »
Quote
Here is my original 3D mockup and where I'm heading with this project more or less, plus/minus the exact control scheme

Very interesting!

I will watch your progress with great  interest   ..

csa3d

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion
« Reply #5 on: October 15, 2006, 07:39:40 pm »
Update 101606:  Gutting the Cab

Today I decided to begin by removing the innards.  The cab is as dirty as one would expect a cabinet made 20+ years ago to be.  Honestly, I've seen worse photos on this forum.  This being said, there was obvious some mold smells coming out, and the wife was sure to let me know that it's not coming inside until I rectify the issue.  I need to search these forums and see what others are doing about that other then painting with a thick latex base.

Removing the insides was not as scary as I had imagined, and I was able to do it all myself.  I read the warnings about monitor discharging.  I used latex rubber gloves, and removed it by touching only the metal frame.  The CRT now sits on  a tarp with the remainder of the elements from the disection.  I don't plan on using any of this stuff except for the glasses and coin door, maybe some of the wires, switches and fasteners.

After removing some excess staples, scraping off some sloppy glue drippings, and sanding a layer of dust, mold and gunk I am left with a cabinet begging for some bondo and an electric sander.  I'm pretty sure I'm going to leave the front kickplate and the bottom back pieces in tact, and see how some clamping and bondo work out.  I think i saw some threads on the board about fixing this type of damage without cutting new wood.  Just the bottoms are chewed, the wood seems relatively strong.

The cab now sits on sawhorses, awaiting next weekend.  Next priority is to purchase the LCD monitor (http://www.viewsonic.com/products/desktopdisplays/lcddisplays/proseries/vp2130b/) and construct the new control panel box and keyboard drawer as the mockup above.  I figure I should work out the specifics before hiding surface flaws.

The coolest part of today was removing the power block to discover some handwriting on the cabinet floor.  Looks like this cab has always been a Galaxian and I am not yet sure of what Bolloms is.  Could be the manufacturing plant and the production number from that lot, I don't know.  Fun history I would like to keep with the finished cab.

Obigatory pics to follow:


csa3d

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion
« Reply #6 on: October 15, 2006, 07:49:08 pm »
Like the hinged CP/keyboard drawer idea, very cool.

From the looks of that mockup you have waaay too much time on your hands.

Yeah, I really want to keep this thing looking largly stock.  Hiding the keyboard tray seems like a good start.  The reason for the complex CAD is because I do it all day, seemed only right to plan it out completely before buying materials and what not.  Like I said before, originally I was going to do this all from scratch.  Guess we'll see how this turns out.

csa3d

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion
« Reply #7 on: October 15, 2006, 07:59:58 pm »
Here's my Galaxian conversion.

http://www.pealefamily.net/tech/newmame/index.php?cat=7

That inside has got to be one of the dirtiest cabs I've seen.  How did you get rid of the funk smell from years of neglect?

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion
« Reply #8 on: October 15, 2006, 08:17:11 pm »
Here's my Galaxian conversion.

http://www.pealefamily.net/tech/newmame/index.php?cat=7

That inside has got to be one of the dirtiest cabs I've seen.  How did you get rid of the funk smell from years of neglect?


It was dirty, but not smelly.  A vacuum cleaned it out nicely.

Why aren't you going to use the arcade monitor?

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion
« Reply #9 on: October 15, 2006, 08:27:47 pm »
Why aren't you going to use the arcade monitor?

I'm not using the CRT because:

1.  The CRT would not turn on when I powered up the cab.  My lack of skill found nothing obvious as to why not.  Fuses and connections seemed good.
2.  Galaxian has a vertical monitor orientation, and I want to play a lot of horizontal games as well as vertical ones.
3.  So therefore, I plan to rotate the LCD to play vertical games, and LCDs are lighter and set up to do this by default.

The 3D mockup above is animated when you enlarge it.  I've animated it to show my intensions.

csa3d

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion
« Reply #10 on: October 20, 2006, 12:49:17 pm »
Update 10/20/06:  Purchase Planning

This weekend isn't probably going to allow me much time to work on the cabinet due to some work related events.  That being said, I am thinking forward about the parts and controls I plan to buy.  I am probably going to begin purchasing so I feel as though I'm moving foward for next weekend.

Control Panel
  • 15 Buttons (probably GGG Electric Ice for bling factor)
  • 2.25" Happs Trackball w/ mounting plate
  • 2 Ultimarc Ultra 360s
  • 1 GGG Turbo Twist

Interface
  • 1 GGG Keywiz Max
  • 1 GGG Opti-Wiz
  • 1 GGG Led-Wiz

Other Parts
  • 1 Viewsonic VP2130b LCD Monitor (http://www.viewsonic.com/products/desktopdisplays/lcddisplays/proseries/vp2130b)
  • 1 VESA Monitor Mount for rotating
  • 2 unknown LED items to light coindoor lights
  • 2 unknown switches of some sort to use coin return buttons as credit buttons
  • 1 set of drawer hinges for keyboard tray
  • wood to construct custom drawer, LCD mount, and other cabinet things unforseen
  • bondo to repair chewed up base, coindoor bolts, and ventilation holes on back.
  • parts nessary for motorized LCD rotation
  • t-modling, which I haven't even began to think about at this point

Now that I have a tenative shopping list comes the questions which I know everyone here can answer:

1.  Is there anything in the interface list I should be concerned with in regards to confliction or items you've had major issues with?  Seems like this combination of items has been proven to work together.

2.  Is the KeyWiz Max overkill for my 2 player control panel (image below)?  If so, what should I get instead to have it still work with the above outlined parts?

3. I'd like to light my 2.25" trackball, what do I need to do this assuming I plan use GGG lighting and a Happs TB.  Is there a better "higher resolution" 2.25" trackball I should be using?

Thanks for any help anyone can provide.  Now for my proposed CP layout.  Note that I've left .75" along the bottom clear because I believe that's how the wooden front connects to the top panel.  Feel free to suggest alternative setups as well.

« Last Edit: October 20, 2006, 12:52:05 pm by csa3d »

Havok

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion
« Reply #11 on: October 20, 2006, 02:14:31 pm »
Looks great so far. I think you'll be happy with the LCD panel - I have the 17" version on my test box, and the display is very sharp and crisp.

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion
« Reply #12 on: October 20, 2006, 02:30:25 pm »
Looks great so far. I think you'll be happy with the LCD panel - I have the 17" version on my test box, and the display is very sharp and crisp.

Yeah, I'm hoping so.  It's a lot of money to have it not work out.   Good to know though!

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion
« Reply #13 on: October 20, 2006, 04:07:15 pm »
I hope you have skinny friends... like Paris Hilton

23" is a tight squeeze for two grown men to gather around. My nintendo cabinet was 22.5" and it just wasn't big enough to play 2 player games comfortably. I ended up making it a single player 4 way vertical mame machine.

I'm looking forward to seeing how it all turns out.

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion
« Reply #14 on: October 21, 2006, 03:34:21 pm »
Why do people even use keyboard trays?  Why not spend $45 on a wireless mini keyboard and throw it on top of the machine when nobody can see it anyways?

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion
« Reply #15 on: October 21, 2006, 04:12:17 pm »
Why do people even use keyboard trays?  Why not spend $45 on a wireless mini keyboard and throw it on top of the machine when nobody can see it anyways?

Asking this question in csa3d's may not be the nicest thing you do... but since you asked. It's definetly a personal preference thing.

Wireless keyboards are:
  • More expensive - and in this hobby, the money starts to add up quickly
  • Less reliable - the batteries run dead and many times the machine will need a reboot to detect the keyboard.
  • You have to find some place to mount the receiver
  • Less accessible


I don't use one because I have many wired keyboards already and I don't want to spend $45 when I don't have to. I actually pull my keyboard out through the coin door when it's rarely needed.

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion
« Reply #16 on: October 21, 2006, 09:07:31 pm »
Now for my proposed CP layout.  Note that I've left .75" along the bottom clear because I believe that's how the wooden front connects to the top panel.  Feel free to suggest alternative setups as well.

That CP layout is way too tight. You're not allowing for the bolts and hardware on the side that fasten the CP to the sides of the cab (the latches that allow the CP to be removed). Aside from it being super cramped in general unless you have a new way to attach the panel to the cab than stock it's just plain won't fit. I think you'd better get used to the idea of losing the trackball, 23" just isn't wide enough. :(
« Last Edit: October 21, 2006, 09:10:52 pm by Aurich »

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion
« Reply #17 on: October 27, 2006, 06:13:32 pm »
You're not allowing for the bolts and hardware on the side that fasten the CP to the sides of the cab (the latches that allow the CP to be removed). Aside from it being super cramped in general unless you have a new way to attach the panel to the cab than stock it's just plain won't fit.

I was planning on using Lid Hinges, having them attach at the back of the control panel insead of on the sides like stock comes with.  Any thoughts about this idea?  I'll need to order these, can't find them at the HomeDepot.

http://www.thehardwarehut.com/catalog-product.php?p_ref=27693

« Last Edit: October 27, 2006, 06:15:17 pm by csa3d »

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion
« Reply #18 on: October 27, 2006, 08:34:49 pm »
Not sure how stable that would be, have to see your whole layout and the hinges.

It's your cab, do your thing, but IMHO 23" is tight for a two player setup by itself, trying to cram a trackball in-between just sounds like you're going to ruin playability. Have you tried mocking up in cardboard or the like to really get a feel? Make sure you get someone to stand next to you and approximate where the screen is, the narrow cab and high sides of Galaxian (they intrude more than a Galaga) are a real factor in seeing comfortably.

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion
« Reply #19 on: October 27, 2006, 08:57:54 pm »
IMHO 23" is tight for a two player setup by itself, trying to cram a trackball in-between just sounds like you're going to ruin playability. Have you tried mocking up in cardboard or the like to really get a feel? Make sure you get someone to stand next to you and approximate where the screen is, the narrow cab and high sides of Galaxian (they intrude more than a Galaga) are a real factor in seeing comfortably.

I agree entirely with this sentiment.

There isn't a lot of room for anybody other than me in front of my Galaga, let alone another set of controls AND a trackball. Swappable panels may be a better solution.

Cheers.

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion
« Reply #20 on: October 27, 2006, 09:24:23 pm »
IMHO 23" is tight for a two player setup by itself, trying to cram a trackball in-between just sounds like you're going to ruin playability. Have you tried mocking up in cardboard or the like to really get a feel? Make sure you get someone to stand next to you and approximate where the screen is, the narrow cab and high sides of Galaxian (they intrude more than a Galaga) are a real factor in seeing comfortably.

I agree entirely with this sentiment.

There isn't a lot of room for anybody other than me in front of my Galaga, let alone another set of controls AND a trackball. Swappable panels may be a better solution.

Cheers.



CSA3d,

I confirm with CheffoJeffo and the others (I said the same thing higher up). Swappable panels is a good solution, but if your convinced you can make it work - do a mock up and see how it actually feels. How it looks is 1 thing, but how it feels is really what matters.

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion
« Reply #21 on: October 28, 2006, 11:44:03 am »


galaxians is one of my favourite games, so im a little sad  :(


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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion
« Reply #22 on: October 28, 2006, 12:01:43 pm »
galaxians is one of my favourite games, so im a little sad  :(

I've been fighing really hard to supress the urge to flame - that cabinet is in great shape and would make a excellent restoration, so, yes, it is sad.

Cheers
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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion
« Reply #23 on: November 02, 2006, 01:16:18 pm »
No big updates today.  I'm awaiting a check in the mail which is holding up some purchases.

In the meantime, I've taken into account the comments that there just isn't room for a full set of two player controls given 23" of space.  Therefore, I've decided to make it Robotron, Arcanoid, and Centipede friendly.  I've included Player 2 admin buttons for any other games that fall into the "multiple players take turns" category.

I still plan to use the above hinges and have measured them to fit in the above layout.  Below is a mockup of the art I'm planning to put on the top of the control panel.  It's 80% vectorized and to scale with spacing of my control components.  I'd love to get feedback before I finalize the vector work.

All comments to date have been helpful minus the ones who think I'm being sacreligious ;)  I expected to be flamed more then what I have to date to be honest.  Hopefully with the addition of this image, it will be more apparent that I'm really just looking swap out the internals more then destroy a good cabinet.  I very much want to keep it largely original.


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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Art WIP
« Reply #24 on: November 02, 2006, 02:28:42 pm »
How many 2 player games require 1 button?

I ask because if you could squeeze a button in on the player 2 side - you could play Joust and Mario Bros. Not sure what other games, but I imagine there might be a couple. If you squeezed 3 buttons you could do Track n Field, Hyper Sports, BC Story, and Boot camp.

LoL. It might to start to look busy again!

Whats the screen orientation? Vertical? If yes, ignore this whole comment....  ;D

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Art WIP
« Reply #25 on: November 02, 2006, 10:14:09 pm »
if you could squeeze a button in on the player 2 side - you could play Joust and Mario Bros. Not sure what other games, but I imagine there might be a couple. If you squeezed 3 buttons you could do Track n Field, Hyper Sports, BC Story, and Boot camp.

Intersting.. I think I'll try shoving two buttons vertically in the green area to the right of player 2's stick.  That way I can play all two player NES games, puzzle bobble, klax.. and other puzzle games my wife might enjoy.  Good idea.

Whats the screen orientation? Vertical? If yes, ignore this whole comment....  ;D
I'll be using an LCD which rotates, hopefully via electronic motor when I'm through with this whole thing.

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Art WIP
« Reply #26 on: November 03, 2006, 12:39:49 am »
A lot of games require a joystick and 2 buttons.  I'd try to find a way to get two more on there.  Also, have you considered putting in any pinball buttons on the side?

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Art WIP
« Reply #27 on: November 03, 2006, 12:47:42 am »
Do you need the 6 buttons for Player 1? Couldn't you do like a staggered 3 to squeeze a little more room for Player 2?
Or you could put the pinball buttons on the side of the CP, and on the Player 2 side, you can have one button stacked on top of the other for the second player to use as their two buttons.

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Art WIP
« Reply #28 on: November 03, 2006, 04:35:39 am »
have you considered putting in any pinball buttons on the side?

I've not really got into the whole pinmame idea yet.  I'm fairly certain I won't be putting buttons on the side of the control panel, as that would mean placing random buttons on the exterior walls of the cab.  My goal is to keep the Galaxian cab as "stock" looking as possible minus the new control panel and the LCD technology.

-csa

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Art WIP
« Reply #29 on: November 03, 2006, 04:40:41 am »
Do you need the 6 buttons for Player 1? Couldn't you do like a staggered 3 to squeeze a little more room for Player 2?
Or you could put the pinball buttons on the side of the CP, and on the Player 2 side, you can have one button stacked on top of the other for the second player to use as their two buttons.

I'm keeping six buttons for Player 1 as I am a fighter fan.  I also would like to be able to play as many console systems as possible, so I think I'm fairly happy with Player 1's controls.

I have began to mock up 2 buttons on P2's side, I'll post them shortly.

-csa

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Art WIP
« Reply #30 on: November 03, 2006, 06:22:06 am »
More control panel updates:

- Added 2 buttons to Player 2 side
- Added Pause button for player 2
- Moved "Mame" logo
- Repositioned Player# labels (still not extremely sold on either location)
- Cleaned up from vector work
- Swapped positions of spinner and trackball

Things I'm keeping in mind:

- Joysticks are about 3.75" away from either side "wall", which seems about as close as one would want for comfort
- Joysticks are positioned about 15.5" apart, which I think is a good Robotron distance.  Any closer wouuld feel confined in my opinion.

Keep the comments coming!
« Last Edit: November 03, 2006, 06:28:53 am by csa3d »

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Art WIP
« Reply #31 on: November 04, 2006, 02:59:11 pm »
Sweet, I love it!! Really nice CP design!!
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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Art WIP
« Reply #32 on: November 04, 2006, 04:55:23 pm »
I'm liking it a lot too... I have an idea - tell me what you think.

Your black buttons seem to be lost in the black of the CP art. What if you used black plungers with lime green rings? I think it would make the admin buttons really stand out. You can also use green buttons with black rings as your primary buttons. I don't know how it would look, but I'm curious.


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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Art WIP
« Reply #33 on: February 05, 2007, 06:20:55 am »
I am pretending I did not see this thread....
I am pretending I did not see this thread....
I am pretending I did not see this thread....
I am pretending I did not see this thread....
I am pretending I did not see this thread....
I am pretending I did not see this thread....


I'm sorry but:  This is WRONG !

Gutting a COMPLETE Galaxian to turn it into a Mame thing with.....in heaven's name....a LCD  :banghead:

Like a steamtrain-engine powered with en electrical motor.....I'm sorry  :'( :'(


Hey it's your cab....but I  can't help feeling sorry for Galaxian No. 7533

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Art WIP
« Reply #34 on: February 06, 2007, 02:07:03 pm »
Classic car or hotrod... hmmm....  Same argument.

As you can see from the control panel mockup, I'm going for a mame design that attempts to fit into the original artwork style and use the original control panel dimensions and measurements.  I have not cut the cab shell in a funky way, added any extended panels, nor chopped up the inside in any way that is not irreversable.  There are no nean strobe holes cut, etc. 

The LCD is what it is.  It will allow me to do what I'm after, which is screen rotation.  Doing that with an original monitor would involve far more stress in the main frame then a light LCD.  I'm even using a good and expensive lcd so view angle is not an issue.  I currently have mame on a 65" HD TV using HDMI.  I like this look, and don't forsee the LCD being any different.

Entering the gameroom, no will will know it's custom except for the obvious give away of extra controls, a front end, and a flush mounted LCD behind smoked glass.  What's not to love about that?

I could have put fur on this cab, made some obnoxius stickers that go with no theme randomly stuck all over the place, and chopped this up an unrestorable mess.  I will not continue to defend this project.  I am trying to give back to the community with whatever turns out with this.  Hopefully someone finds this inspirational in some form or another.  Ultimately, it's what I want, and why some people live in houses shaped like dogs or giant boots.

I am not an arcade technition.  I have no clue why it originally wouldn't turn on, what the scary humming was, and how to tell if the monitor even worked.  Ultimately, I don't care.  It wasn't in the cards for this guy.

I will sell off the boards and the monitor to anyone who wants this.  The cab is beautiful, and I will continue to give it my special touch staying as true to original form as I can.

If you want to flame me, then let's create another thread for that.  Let's keep this topic on constructive criticisms of the events to come.  Thanks in advance.

-csa

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Art WIP
« Reply #35 on: February 07, 2007, 01:52:09 pm »
I'm sorry but:  This is WRONG !

Gutting a COMPLETE Galaxian to turn it into a Mame thing with.....in heaven's name....a LCD  :banghead:

Like a steamtrain-engine powered with en electrical motor.....I'm sorry  :'( :'(


Hey it's your cab....but I  can't help feeling sorry for Galaxian No. 7533

You're wrong. He's not destroying the cab, he's saving it. Sure it's not going to be a dedicated original Galaxian, but he's taking the time and effort to stay true to the original design. It was messed up and he didn't know how to fix it, but he could modify it to suit his needs and still maintain the look and feel of an original. The original boards and monitor can go to a good home, with someone who can figure out the problems and restore those things back to their original glory.

Give the guy some slack. And I think these sorts of projects are great. I look at it as saving a Galaxian from the dump, or some other fate worse than that:

I could have put fur on this cab, made some obnoxius stickers that go with no theme randomly stuck all over the place


Not everyone has room for dedicated machines in their house, but they do love the look of some of the older machines. This is a perfect way to get the best of both worlds.

Back on topic, I like it. Never been a huge fan of these cabs (mainly because of the extreme angle of the monitor), but your artwork looks really good so far. My only advice would be to put those player 2 buttons in a horizontal configuration if at all possible. I just don't know how comfortable it would be to have them vertically like that. I'm sure you'll play-test and decide, but that's my only real criticism. Other than that, keep up the good work.
Bob Dole likes cheese.

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Art WIP
« Reply #36 on: February 07, 2007, 11:41:20 pm »
Yeah, those controls haven't been tested yet.  I'm in a standstill on this project due to some crazy work related things.  And also, now that Randy has made a spinner fit into a standard button hole, I can potentially rearrange that spinner, shifting the ball back towards center, and gaining some additonal room.  I'm really trying to be careful to give robotron a good fit as well, so we'll have to see.

I've ran across a few cabs around here that are inspiring me again to push this forward even though right now is not the right time to do so!  I'm liking Level42's project, Bella's Cab, and JFunks project, all which I'll be watching closely to see how everyone else is tacking things.

Thanks for the comments, Hopefully this weekend I can find a few minutes to pull 'em out of the corner and start up the power saws (just kidding level42!)  >:D

-csa

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Art WIP
« Reply #37 on: February 08, 2007, 01:50:58 am »
Hey csa3d,

I might have come over a bit too harsh on my first reply. Maybe triggered because I'm trying to do the full restore on my Galaxian....however don't consider this "flaming", just a matter of difference in opinion.

I still stand by my opinion though, but that's what a forum like this is about. You put up a project and you get responses. I hope to get good feedback but remarks on how to do things better or that people think different are all very welcome and valued.

I actualy really like your CPO design. It's nice in the Galaxian style. But if I would have wanted a Galaxian-styled Mame cab, I would have get the dimensions from the net and saw the boards myself.....because essentialy, that's the only thing you'll still be using from the original cab.....

I got a PM from a member here about my Galaxian No.815.
I had mentioned that I thought it was so weird that there is no repro artwork available for the Galaxian. He said that every scratch and spot on the artwork is also part of the history of the cab and that he wouldn't replace it at all. I value his opinion and in a sense he is right about that. But if I would go this way, I should have only cleaned the cab,leave the blurry WG in it, use the dirty worn-out buttons, keep the totaly worn-out T-molding on and keep the rust going on the metal parts. IMHO it's fine to restore/replace these parts IF you keep it as original as possible. I know that the CPO I ordered is 100% the same as the original (up to the structure of the vinyl !). So why not replace it ? I also know that I COULD have the side and kickplate art printed (the files are available) but it would need the EXACT same vinyl. Hard to find, and then how to print it ? Anyway....I leave my side-art as it is, because it's already very nice for the age. But if I could get some (NOS) or 100% exact repro, Id' go for it....

What I want to say with this all: opinions differ. I may have thought otherwise about your project a while ago, because I didn't really own a classic up to then....It's also because of this that I think that your Galaxian could have pretty easily been restored.
That hummm you're hearing is perfectly normal. Those fat-ass transformers on the bottom are producing that sound and it's simply the mains-humm that these produce, and always have.
Probably you only needed to replace the monitor (with a CRT ! ;) ) maybe get the board fixed/"new" board....but again, it's your cab :D I trust you do it as stylish as possible, and take care with those power saws, the arcade Gods, may take a revenge ;)

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Art WIP
« Reply #38 on: February 08, 2007, 04:56:53 am »
Level 42,

Cool.  I can definately see how someone might do exactly as you say and fix the monitor, clean the insides, and replaced the generic CPO that came on it with a reproduction original.  The artwork is a lot better then some I've seen I suppose you could say.  And it's in far better shape then that one found in the rain.

I'm the type of person who gets pissed when if my car gets a tiny scratch on it.  I've considered leaving everything alone, but mentally any imperfection makes me question why I don't 'fix it' knowing full well i can print reproductions that 95% of everyone won't know I didn't buy this cab new.  I will be priting new art using the files you mentioned, which are all ready downloaded in case that source leaves the internet for good suddenly.  I'm not sure if I'll be painting the cab white or getting vinyal printed upon.  Neither will be 100% authentic, but it will look less 'antique' and more original to me.  I need to research the cost of getting vinyal printed on.  If after removing the vinyl, the wood looks in as good of shape as the inside of the cab does after I cleaned it out, I feel it would be a crime to prime and paint over the wood.  The X-Factor here is that the front has water damage to the bottom front kick plate and the sides have some chips.  There are also some large holes in this unit from some opperator adding the gigantic metal theft bar across the coin door.  Those wholes need filled, and so far, the only solution I see is that I either replace the panel completely, or use the 'fill it with bondo' technique.  The latter solution means the wood would be ugly anyways, so I mind as well paint it at that point.

This weekend I'm likely taking a hairdryer to the entire cab and stripping off that vinyal after taking a ton of reference shots.  Bondo is likely to come shortly after to fix any chips, holes, etc to remove the years of abuse.  I can't believe someone used the side art of this cab as a 'tree trunk' where they've written their name on the side of it.  I never as a kid, carved or wrote on public property that wasn't mine.  Now trees, maybe once... but we chop them down to become furnature anways :D

I'm super interested to see how you fix the coindoor rust.  Do keep me posted.  I have holes in mine as well which need filled.  I visited the site with the midway coindoor logo replacement and noticed I can buy a whole new door front which has no holes, for relatively cheap, which is another option.

Till next time  :cheers:
-csa


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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Coin Door Restorations begins
« Reply #39 on: February 11, 2007, 02:37:12 pm »
Update 02/11/07:  Coin Door Restoration Begins

Started working on the coin door this weekend after making a trip to the Home Depot.  Came home with the following inventory:

  • Dremmel attachment - Wire Wheel #428
  • Dremmel attachment - Wire Brush #442
  • Black and Decker 2" Wire Wheel (fine)
  • Naval Jelly Rust Remover
  • Citristrip Paint Stripping Gel
  • Brasso metal polish
  • Rust-oleum Autobody Primer - #2089 Dark Gray
  • Rust-oleum Fine Textured Finish - #7220 Black
  • 1 Can of Bondo

This coin door isn't in too bad of shape.  It's got some holes under coin #2 insert which need filled, some slight bends which need straitened, and everything could use a good scrub and a paint job.

Step 1: Dismanteling the Door
I began by taking apart the door.  Because this is my first venture at this, I took about 100 pictures of each step, and also made individually labeled bags for each screw set so I'd know which one came from where when it's time to put it back together.  The hardest part of this process was probably removing the Midway Logo from the front.  It was attached with rivets, and sure, I could have pried this right off since it's scratched all to :censored: anyways, but I felt some respect was needed for this task.  I took a finishing nail, and pounded out each rivot from the back which in turn, poped the nail out the front, leaving the logo in tact.  Below is a picture of the door before and after dismantling.  Note the holes under coin 2 which will be filled with bondo soon.

Step 2:  Coin Acceptor Rust Removal
In the paint isle, I accidentally spotted Naval Jelly rust remover, which I've been told to look for to aide with the rust task by others.  I picked up the bottle when home, and started to read the applicationn directions.  Right on the bottle, it states clearly that, "This product contains chemicals known to cause cancer in the state of California".  Good thing I'm in Texas!    ;)    I immediately put the jar right back down after reading this, figuring that restoration of an arcade machine wasn't worth uncurable disease.  It will be going back to the Depot next weekend.

I next grabbed all my newly purchased wire wheels and headed into the garadge with all the metal pieces.  I loaded my cordless drill the small dremmel wire wheel and turned it on at full blast to get the feel for this process.  Seems the cordless wasn't going to cut the mustard in reguads to RPM.  I then remembered that last year I purchased the "worst drill ever" for 15$.  It is a no name brand, but plugs into a wall.  It has forward and reverse options, no variable speed option, and strips screws like it's no ones business.  You hit the trigger, you get full tilt RPM.  Known only previously as a waist of money, it now serves as a makeshift dremmel motor GREAT for paint and rust removal.

I loaded up the blue drill with the small wheel (seen below) and began by testing the rust removal process on the BACK of the worst coin acceptor.  I was fearful that this wheel would heavily mar and scratch the finish, and felt that testing here was the best option.  To my surprise, this little wheel took the rust right off, and didn't seem to scratch the finish anything like I had expected it to.  Upon completing the back, I was confident that the this process would work for the front as well.  Thirtly minutes later I had 2 rust free coin acceptors.

Next I've been told by others to use steel wool to remove the bigger scratches the wheel would cause.  After all, this is sanding, a process of adding scratching to beautify.  So I did this on both sides of the coin acceptors.  I'm not convinced this did anything at all.  I think this little dremmel wheel did a fantastic job of not scratching the surface much at all.

Lastly, I hit both coin acceptors with a soft rag and some Brasso metal polish.  This made them a tad shinier, but do not expect to get new bumper feel from a 28 year old part.  I think they turned out pretty good (see before and after pictures below)

Now about the acceptor bolts (which were rusted and REALLY horrible looking).  I read that the preferred process is to take your bolt, and stick it in your drill chuck so the screw end goes inside.  This allows the head to be spun into some steel wool, followed by spinning it into a rag of Brasso.  Point take, I tried that and I highly suggest you do not.  Spinning the bolt into the steel wool caused the bolt to snag the wool from my hand and twist it into a giant ball around the drill head and the bolt itself.  I even made sure it was taunt in my hand before attempting this.  I laughed and was like, "um.. duh of course it would do that."  I untangled it and decided to skip this step and try going strait to the "spin into rag of Brasso" technique.  This was even more scary.  The drill snagged the rag from my hand and almost whipped me in the face, not to mention twerked my wrist.  Don't do this unless you enjoy pain.

Pissed now, I got the wheel back out.  Holding the bolt shaft with a pair of needle nose plyers, I ran the brush over the head, and within 10 seconds it looked new and shiney again.  I see no scratches on the nail head, so I don't think  it's vital to spin the bolt into a flat surface for consistant scratching sake.

Step 3:  Cleaning the coin mechs
I considered repainting the interior coin mechs as Peale describes in his coindoor refinishing tutorial.  I really only think the coin shoots look crummy, and after I figured that no one will see the insides much, plus they work fine right now.  They have age defying crud, and a quick blast from the small wire wheel took off most of that!  They now don't look new, but they also don't look disgustingly old.  One of them was likely replaced, as there is still a sticker on it dating to January of 1982.  Cool!  I will probably hit the coin shoots with a shot from the 2" wire wheel next weekend.  The bigger wheel does add noticable scratches, but will take of a tiny layer which I think will make the overall appearance look nider to those two particular pieces.

Step 4:  Paint Removal from the Door and Frame
So I couldn't find Strippease at the Home Depot.  I did manage to find something called Citristrip Gel.  It said it was a safe stripper (which sounded like a plus to me, no one likes a dirty stripper!) and didn't give off fumes.  Since it's freezing out, I thought I could use this indoors and not have my wife pass out.  Upon reading the directions, on the label again a scary statement, "This product contains a chemical known to cause reproductive harm in the state of California".  What's with California and why do they want us all to die?  I was told by my wife to immediately put that down and not to use it.  So I headed out to the garadge to use it.  Hey, one can always adopt, right?

I got out a paint brush and lathered a thick coat over both the frame and the door fronts.  It smelled delicious like oranges as the label said it would, and I resisted the temptation to taste it.  It sat overnight, and I anticipated wiping off years of yuck with a wet rag.  Well, this was true on the frame.  The coindoor resisted, so I shot it by hand with a wire brush.  Wearing rubber gloves, I scrubbed away wiping new layers off with a clean paper towel.  I used 2/3rds of a roll before I decided it was as good as it was going to get without reapplying another coat.  YUCK!  I'm not sure I'd do the chemical peel again.  Curious and anxious to see my door revealed, I rembered this blog where he mentions doing the entire thing with a wire wheel.  Hey, I have one of those!  And damn.. it works WAY better then this chemical crap.

I will mention that the 2" B&D Wire Wheel does add noticable scratches to the door as it strips paint like butter.  These are minor in my opinion.  The door is going to be primed and repainted so this is not a problem.  Doing it over, I'd skip any sort of paint stripper and proceed strait to grinding.

Next Weekend
As the door stands tonight, it's 80% finished before I grew too cold to stay outside and my wrist hurst from not having a proper dremmel tool to use.  Once I finish sanding the paint away, I plan to layer the coin door in with a thin coat of bondo in a few places where it looks like children beat the hell out of the doing returns.  There are also those 4 security holes which need patched.  Prime and paint come next, and I'm hoping 1 weekend will be enough to do this all in.  I suppose I may run into "don't rush it" paint issues, so we'll have to see how it goes.  I'll keep you posted.  For now, enjoy the pictures below which accompany this restoration story.
« Last Edit: February 11, 2007, 06:24:57 pm by csa3d »

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Coin Door Restoration Begins
« Reply #40 on: February 12, 2007, 12:04:05 pm »
I think if people like that original Galaxian so much they should buy it from you!  8)

Anyway, good luck with the conversion, at least you keep it neutral and nice, and there's nothing wrong with a souped up hotrod, so it's fine in my book. The only thing I wonder about is if it wouldn't make much more sense to rebuild one from scratch if you are removing the artwork anyway, but that's just my two cents.

By the way, fantastic idea on the keyboard there. Consider it swiped :) Now if I only could convince myself of buying an LCD  :(

« Last Edit: February 12, 2007, 12:09:00 pm by blueznl »

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Coin Door Restoration - 90% Complete
« Reply #41 on: February 24, 2007, 04:06:51 pm »
Restoration on my coin door continues, and is at what I'm calling 90% completed.  What still needs done:

  • Replace money inserts with newer, matching reproduction printed versions
  • Purchase and replace the midway logo on the front
  • Figure out where to buy pop-rivets to mount this new logo plate
  • Purchase new coin switches in the event that these do not trigger a credit (TBD)
  • Come up with a way to add back lighting to the money inserts

Also on my list of projects, is that I've finally dedicated a blog page to this project.  You can see all commentary at:  http://www.csa3d.com/galaxian.php

Pictures as follows:

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Coin Door Restoration - 90% Complete
« Reply #42 on: February 24, 2007, 07:02:32 pm »
With the amount of effort you are putting in, it is a shame that you're not doing a complete restoration.

The coin door looks bloody fabulous -- nice work.

Cheers
Working: Not Enough
Projects: Too Many
Progress: None

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Coin Door Restoration - 90% Complete
« Reply #43 on: February 24, 2007, 07:10:09 pm »
Cheffo took the words right out of my mouth.....

Looks like brand new.... :notworthy:

I personaly wouldn't light up the money inserts....they never were lit...but you're hot-rodding it anyway ;)

Get new coin inserts here: http://www.thisoldgame.com/thisoldgame/new_page_2.htm

(I think I'm going to order my CPO there. Great communications via e-mail, answered all my pesty questions without problems and quickly so far.)


F.Y.I.: The Midway plate I got from www.arcadeshop.com has adhesive on the back, but indeed, I will be putting back (the old ?) rivets in as well, to keep it authentic. It looks weird without them...


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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Coin Door Restoration - 90% Complete
« Reply #44 on: February 24, 2007, 07:12:20 pm »
By the way, I was looking at a thead this morning, and my nearly 5 year old son saw your avatar.......

He said: Hey look dad, Mario's kissing !!!  :angel: :laugh2: :laugh2:

Uhhmm,  yeah son, yeah, he's kissing that sweet princess !!!   :laugh2:

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Coin Door Restoration - 90% Complete
« Reply #45 on: February 24, 2007, 07:26:59 pm »
Get new coin inserts here: http://www.thisoldgame.com/thisoldgame/new_page_2.htm

(I think I'm going to order my CPO there. Great communications via e-mail, answered all my pesty questions without problems and quickly so far.)

Sorry for the threadjack ...

L42 -- can you add This Old Game to the Vendors list in the wiki ... I can't log in for some reason (I tried to add it the other day).

I now return you to your regularly scheduled project thread.
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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Coin Door Restoration - 90% Complete
« Reply #46 on: February 24, 2007, 07:32:25 pm »
Working: Not Enough
Projects: Too Many
Progress: None

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Coin Door Restoration - 90% Complete
« Reply #47 on: February 24, 2007, 07:48:20 pm »
With the amount of effort you are putting in, it is a shame that you're not doing a complete restoration.

The coin door looks bloody fabulous -- nice work.

Cheers
Thanks for the compliment!  I am having a really fun time doing this.  Like I said earlier, my plan is to keep it more or less stock looking.

I wish I enjoyed the game Galaxian itself enough to keep it dedicated.  I grew up on Galaga.. so trying to play galaxian is painful in many ways.   :dunno  If I ever finish this cab, I might look into owning a dedicated centipede, frogger and/or an asteroids deluxe.  We'll see if the wife lets me live long enough to complete one machine though!  I'm all ready way too obsessed with all this.

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Coin Door Restoration - 90% Complete
« Reply #48 on: February 24, 2007, 08:05:52 pm »
Cheffo took the words right out of my mouth.....

Looks like brand new.... :notworthy:

I personaly wouldn't light up the money inserts....they never were lit...but you're hot-rodding it anyway ;)

Get new coin inserts here: http://www.thisoldgame.com/thisoldgame/new_page_2.htm

(I think I'm going to order my CPO there. Great communications via e-mail, answered all my pesty questions without problems and quickly so far.)


F.Y.I.: The Midway plate I got from www.arcadeshop.com has adhesive on the back, but indeed, I will be putting back (the old ?) rivets in as well, to keep it authentic. It looks weird without them...


Level42:
Thanks again for the kind words.  I'll convert you all into believers, you just wait!  :laugh:

Good to know that plate is ahesive on the back.  I did not save the old rivets when dismanteling.. never assumed these would be hard to find!  I was doing some internet searching, and found this page:  http://www.rivetsinstock.com/rivet02.htm   I was considering the 1/4th inch rivets, they seem about the length I need.  I did not email anyone, who knows if you have to order a giant run of these or not.  You have any leads on these?  I think I agree that without them won't feel right.  Hopefully acceptable.

Last question for you was on thisoldgame.com, I saw there were two options for the money inserts, one was labeld as the old style but no photo is present.  If you look at my money inserts, one appears to be rounder cornered text and the other is more rigid.  I'm wondering if the older style matches the rounder version.  I suppose I'm gonna send an email off and see what I can find out.

I'd also like to say thanks for getting me inspired through your project again.  That's largely what got me up and moving on this coindoor.  More to come.

-csa

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Coin Door Restoration - 90% Complete
« Reply #49 on: February 25, 2007, 03:43:11 pm »
Yeah, I plan on drilling out the rivets on the inside and hope to re-use them, at least visiualy....However, I think it will be hard to have it look like the plate is hanging on the rivets, without really tightening somehow on the inside.. so....

If that won't work I'd be interested in those rivets as well. I have no clue where to get the flat-tops here (the others are widely available), and also, I bet they are metric sized here......

So are these brass or copper ? Mail them and ask about quantity, maybe I can get Darth Nuno interested as well....we can do a "group-buy"  :D ;)

Drop Richard of www.thisoldgame.com a mail, I bet he'll answer quickly and completely.  Good to hear I actualy inspired someone, that's very nice to hear :D You truely did a beautiful job on the door, therre is no doubt in your skills to do restorations :D ;) !

To Cheffo: I added info about www.thisoldgame.com to the Wiki !

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Art WIP
« Reply #50 on: February 25, 2007, 04:30:10 pm »
Classic car or hotrod... hmmm....  Same argument.

I have owned several classic Mustangs and I completely agree with the above argument.

Everyone telling you not to do this or that with your purchase is just wrong.

It's yours!  Do with it as you will.

I got so much heat from people when I decided to retrofit a 66 Mustand with disc brakes but I'll tell you, it was worth it.  The increase in usability made the 'Stang a much better driver.

Anyway, not to start a war here, I'm just voicing the opinion that I like the cab.

-D

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Coin Door Restoration - 90% Complete
« Reply #51 on: February 25, 2007, 05:17:01 pm »
Mmmm, I thought we left that point behind us several postings ago, and see csa3d and I are still good friends. This is a forum, when you post something, you can expect people to respond. If it would all be just oooh's and aaaah's it would be nice, but sometimes it's OK to say what you feel as well. csa3d and I differ in opionion on some parts, but we help eachother and support eachother on others....it's not like I don't respect him at all !!! (Quite the opposite !)   

I also hope people are honest in their responses to my threads/projects. That's how we learn IMHO :)

I've already nuanced my initial post, csa3d is happy, I'm happy can we now move on ? Thanks  :)
« Last Edit: February 25, 2007, 05:37:39 pm by Level42 »

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Coin Door Restoration - 90% Complete
« Reply #52 on: February 25, 2007, 07:03:55 pm »
Mmmm, I thought we left that point behind us several postings ago, and see csa3d and I are still good friends. This is a forum, when you post something, you can expect people to respond. If it would all be just oooh's and aaaah's it would be nice, but sometimes it's OK to say what you feel as well. csa3d and I differ in opionion on some parts, but we help eachother and support eachother on others....it's not like I don't respect him at all !!! (Quite the opposite !)   

I also hope people are honest in their responses to my threads/projects. That's how we learn IMHO :)

I've already nuanced my initial post, csa3d is happy, I'm happy can we now move on ? Thanks  :)

I saw we stage a big fight, and make season 2 of Mame Wars a hit!  Yeah, I'm past all that as well, everyone is happy and moving along.
-csa

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Coin Door Restoration - 90% Complete
« Reply #53 on: June 12, 2007, 06:02:05 pm »
It's been a while since I've had time to work on this project.  Between new jobs and Real Life (tm) little has been done.  I found a bit of time and the bug is back to make some real progress on the cab.

I need to order the monitor very soon so I can start to get the woodworking complete.  Javery's Bella Cab has inspired me to go that route in regards to monitor mounting.  I think I'm still going with my planned Viewsonic mentioned earlier to keep the 4:3 ratio aspect.

That being said, I began peeling off the old artwork and vinyl to see what structural damages to the structure need repaired.  I wasn't concerned about salvaging any of the artwork; I can print new for far less hastle.  The back vents and the entire front and back of the cab appeared to have wood splitting, which I thought could be water related based on the musty smell of the cab in general.  There are also holes needing filled around the coin door from an after market security bar across the front.

My process for removing the vinyl was to grab a hairdryer, warm up the surrounding area, and starting from a corner, to slowly peel off the giant 'sticker', working your way towards the heated section.  You pull off as much as you can before the vinyal appears to stretch.  You don't want it coming off in tiny bits and it will tear, so do it slow and try to remove it all in one giant sheet.  And oh yeah, protect your fingers from the heat.  After 3 hours of handling hot plastic you get blisters believe it or not.

I was nervous about this process, as I have heard of others removing vinyl, but never saw any photos of this process.  I found that it comes off pretty easily, and is very similar to removing wallpaper.  I started in the morning and after 3 hours I got 75% of it off.  I quit only because my fingers became blistered from the heat.

Here is where I'm at with that process.  I'm hoping this weekend I can begin the patching process with bondo to repair the base.  I'm also talking with some folks about getting the vinyl printed.  Seems like it will run around $350 if I only want the 2 sides and front in vinyl and paint the rest white.  However, MY cab came with a vinyl top, bottom, and back side.  A true restoration means I would not paint this.  I'm up in the air over how I feel about this at this point.

Finally, pics.  Enjoy.


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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Coin Door Restoration - 90% Complete
« Reply #54 on: June 12, 2007, 06:03:37 pm »
And more.

Notice the bottom chipping.  I think the old woodglue, clamps, and bondo trick are in order.

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Stripping off years of neglect
« Reply #55 on: June 12, 2007, 06:07:07 pm »
Did you check with MameMarquees?  They might be able to save you a bit on your side art, etc.

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Stripping off years of neglect
« Reply #56 on: June 12, 2007, 06:12:47 pm »
Did you check with MameMarquees?  They might be able to save you a bit on your side art, etc.

Yeah, I talked with Scott.  The two sides were $180 + 100$ for the extra tough coating (or whatever), $40 for the kickplate (which comes in the tough material all ready).

I've contacted someone over in the U.K. and seeing if they can beat that deal.

-csa

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Stripping off years of neglect
« Reply #57 on: August 18, 2007, 09:08:58 pm »
It's been a long time since I've updated this thread, so here's what I've been up to:

Patching Holes, Damage, and Age

After ripping off all the vinyl, I went to town with my new found friend, "Bondo" repairing as much as possible, attempting to recreate missing parts, patch unnecessary holes, and to clean up and other surface marks which would detract from a clean, smooth final surface.

Here's the images from this process:


Right side, not much patching here


Left side, some back corner patching, some filling nail holes


Front view, Lots of security holes patched around the coin door, bottom edge water damage repaired


Coin door patching close up.




Back vents needed a lot of help


And the base needed water damage repair as well
« Last Edit: August 19, 2007, 10:47:13 am by csa3d »

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Reconstruction at "rough fit" stage
« Reply #58 on: August 18, 2007, 10:38:16 pm »
Back Door Mod

I know I said i wasn't going to modify this cab, and leave the internals as original as possible.  Well, the monitor wasn't going to function without a mod.  After that, I decided it didn't make sense to suffer through other things I didn't like about the cab design.  So here's why I ended up doing to my back door:


Door looks normal from here


Door now swings open Suicide Style.


This mod required special hinges.  Piano hinges didn't work with the default routing of the cab.


I filled in the gap where the door usually fits into.  It needs on pass of Bondo to eliminate the middle notch yet.


Magnetic hinges at the top ond bottom keep the door snapped shut.  The lock is still function but not necessary to keep the door hinged shut any longer.
« Last Edit: August 19, 2007, 10:33:52 am by csa3d »

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Reconstruction at "rough fit" stage
« Reply #59 on: August 18, 2007, 10:48:45 pm »
LCD Rotating Monitor Mount

After trying to save the default monitor mounts, and utilize what was there, I quickly became aware that my monitor would hit the supports on the sides and bottom during rotation.  I started first by removing very little wood, only the parts that hit.  Then more problems, after more problems, to the point where I felt it was time to rip out the monitor mount and start over.

This mount is nothing special, it's a single beam hanging off 4 slotted L-Brackets so I can adjust the height when I get my custom bezel created.  The LCD is going to use the VESA mount that came with the monitor after a few customizations from our friend the "dremmel tool".

Here's pics:


Looking into the cab, glass is there just to show how it will fit.  Glass is going away before long.


Looking in from the back, you can see it's just a single beam with a vesa mount.  Nothing fancy here.


You can see Bondo lines where there was once Midway Slotted monitor support goodness.


Yes, it's a shame they had to come out.  I figured I would patch them and have them look they there were never there for "fit and finish"


Close up of 2" L-Brackets who have been turned into slotted, adjustable brackets with the Dremmel

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Reconstruction at "rough fit" stage
« Reply #60 on: August 18, 2007, 10:57:31 pm »
Speaker Mods

The Galaxian came standard with a state of the art 6x9 paper cone speaker from the late 70's.  Wow.  This wasn't gonna do it for me.  I had a 2.1 speaker system laying around from a college computer no longer in use.  After some research into looking at new 2.1 systems with a cleaner, flatter look, I decided that I wasn't gonna drop extra money into it.  My speakers work and sound great, have a separate volume control, and weren't too bad to install:


Here you can see the 6x9 slot has been filled with 5/8 plywood, awaiting bondo.


Also note that my speakers had a slight bevel to them.  I decided to mount the sides flush with with top frame and use bondo to give them an outter emboss feel.


A closer look at the bevel.  They protrude down less then 1/2 an inch.  Once painted black to match the inside I suspect they will mostly vanish.


From the inside, I cut a rounded square and used the Dremmel to achieve a snug fit.  The speaker pods screw from the back into this frame and are now secure.
« Last Edit: August 19, 2007, 10:37:52 am by csa3d »

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Reconstruction at "rough fit" stage
« Reply #61 on: August 18, 2007, 11:05:15 pm »
Control Panel

I finally bought a router, a circular saw, and some supplied I needed to start this part.  I had to use the hinges I was going to use here on my Back Door mod (because the Piano Hinge wasn't working with the inside routing).  Therefore, there's not much to see here other then the shape has been created and I have some hole filling to do.  This was far easier to create then I had expected.

MDF Control Panel, routes like butter and really shapes out nicely with a good sand!

Wheels

I grew tired of lugging the cab around, and purchased 2" casters.  I wanted the casters high enough to allow movement on carpet, yet low enough to not bother the profile of this machine when completed.  I plan on placing 4 Cold Cathode tubes under the until to give it that floating on light affect.  Hold in your suspense.. we have:


Wheels mounted

Status for Now


A bit more Bondo work, mounting the control panel on hinges, and a good primer base is next in line.

Hope you enjoy the updates.
-csa
« Last Edit: August 19, 2007, 10:48:15 am by csa3d »

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Reconstruction at "rough fit" stage
« Reply #62 on: August 19, 2007, 03:40:54 pm »
 :applaud:

Good work!

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Reconstruction at "rough fit" stage
« Reply #63 on: August 19, 2007, 03:59:10 pm »
Bondo is real nice to work with.  Good work on the repairs.  I also like the way you fixed the door to swing open.  Keep it up.

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Reconstruction at "rough fit" stage
« Reply #64 on: August 25, 2007, 12:12:21 am »
Minor updates today, no pics  tonight... (It's dark now anyways):

1.  Holes on control panel patched.  I have a feeling after priming it will need one more go at minor Bondo leveling.

2.  Control panel now attached on European hinges like the back door is mounted on.  It now swings up like the original GIF Design shows.  (Keyboard drawer will not fit like originally designed and is on the chopping block)

3.  Primed 2 coats of water based primer on both sides, the top and the back vent area.  The wood is soaking this stuff up like a camel.  I have a feeling it will be a long weekend!

4.  I'm on the prowl for reproduction artwork.  Please see this thread if you feel you got the goods.


More tomorrow.
-csa

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Priming begins..
« Reply #65 on: August 25, 2007, 12:42:09 am »
Very nice.  Good luck on the paint job.

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Priming begins..
« Reply #66 on: August 25, 2007, 12:52:45 am »
cool project! I love the galaxian cab

good luck with the paint

I'm still waiting for my black semi-gloss latex enamel paint to fully dry / harden (1 week later) ... that stuff can take time... humidity doesn't help right now

that is one fun hobby we have guys! ;)

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Priming continues..
« Reply #67 on: September 03, 2007, 11:39:37 am »
Minor update this weekend:

- Priming will hopefully be done by night's end.  Unexciting pics of a white cab to follow if true.
- Buttons, Trackball, and joysticks have all been ordered.  Boy, that adds up quick!  I plan to bling the CP with GGG lighting modules.

Left to buy:
- T-Molding (going with leather black on this) <-- Suggestions on where to purchase?
- Reproduction Coin Door inserts, ThisOldGame
- Reproduction Coin Door Midway plate, hopefully ThisOldGame
- Reproduction Back Midway Badge, ThisOldGame
- Vinyl Artwork, looking like Scott's the only one who's going to be able to come through on this
- Neon lighting accents for under cab and behind rear vents for backwash
- Tempered gray glass

This being said, I've created a photoshop mockup of my color/lighting scheme.  I didn't like alien green molding.. blue was a bit distracting.. then I tried chrome, and that felt tacky.   I also tossed up green vs. blue neon.  I think blue was more pleasing.  Here's the outcome.  Opinions welcome.




« Last Edit: September 03, 2007, 11:45:46 am by csa3d »

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Priming continues..
« Reply #68 on: September 03, 2007, 01:25:31 pm »
Left to buy:
- T-Molding (going with leather black on this) <-- Suggestions on where to purchase?

Best place I could find for my cabinet was: http://www.dreamarcades.com/partstmold/index.shtml

25 feet for $10.99 or $35.99 for 100 feet.


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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Priming continues, parts ordered, lighting mockup
« Reply #69 on: September 03, 2007, 02:30:09 pm »
Got mine from arcadeshop.com, 10 bucks per game. It's exactly enough for the cab...

Have also ordered with www.t-molding.com.

I vote against the neon, but that can hardly surprise you...... :laugh:

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Priming continues, parts ordered, lighting mockup
« Reply #70 on: September 03, 2007, 09:16:04 pm »
Priming is "Done"

Well, here's the result of 2.5 full weekends of priming.  This part was pretty much not fun at all, and I'm quite glad to move onto other things.  I say "done" because I know I have at least 3 more hours cleaning up the bondo lines from where I filled the original monitor mount, which i apparently sanded a bit too much out of.  I also have a few spots in the cab, that no matter how many coats of primer they receive, a brown tint keeps coming back.  This has me worried that I have mold or moisture in the wood somewhere... which is crazy.. this cab has been baking in my Texas Kiln (garadge) bare.. for weeks now.  Let me know if you have any ideas on that.  For the record, I've been priming with Kilts white latex stain blocker primer.  Yes, I'm going to cover the sides and front with vinyl, but given the original smell and no desire to bring any mold into my home, I decided to give this a good coat.

enough.. time for pics:


Right side of cab.  Excited yet?


Front of cab.  Speaker grills in place to give you an idea.  Oh yeah.. it was "fun" painting that interior marque area.  Can't wait to do it again in black. ::) 


Speaker close-up.  I'm likely going to chop 1/4" off of their height before permanently affixing them.


Interior painted.  This.. sucked.. to.. do!  UGH!  Flipping the cab upside down helped some.   I'm well over the joy of painting.

Suggestions on this..

Ok.. this next pic is the area that doesn't seem to want to be white.  It's been coated about 10 times I'd estimate.  Suggestions?


Notice the tan.. the unholy area that seems to stay brown.  Can I paint over this black and not worry or should I address this before?

There you go.  Until next weekend..
-csa




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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Priming "done".. thank GOD!
« Reply #71 on: September 04, 2007, 12:37:20 am »
After all that work I hope not to discourage you but AFAIK, primer never needs to totally cover the wood. After all, it's a primer. It's just offering a layer that makes the actual paint set much better to the wood.The covering is done by the finishing paint layers....

And using a white primer for a dark (black) paint is not a clever idea......you should at least have used red for the parts that need to become black again....This is going to take you another dreadful weekend of putting on LOTS of layers of black paint. I'd suggest still putting some dark tinted primer on the places where the black will come.

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Priming "done".. thank GOD!
« Reply #72 on: September 04, 2007, 05:47:39 am »
Level,

Hmm..  well, the good news is that what the pictures show isn't really a great solid cover of white primer anyways.  Close up there are spots which could use a third or forth coat.  I was aware that this layer didn't have to completely cover, but what I also thought I remember hearing is that primer is cheaper then paint... so I thought I'd give it two so that the wood would suck up my primer layer instead of my paint layer.  ::dunno

As for the black.. sigh.. I thought of this halfway through the 2nd coat when remembering back to painting my house a dark color.  I plan to wet-sand the visible exterior parts to bring back the shine.  We'll see how I feel about the inside.  Sounds like that process involves 5 or so layers of paint anyways.  I'm hoping that process also fills some minor lows and highs as well.

Thanks for your input.  I'm not discouraged.  I just keep hoping it gets cooler outside soon if I'm going to be living in the garage for many more consecutive weekends!  :laugh:  It's probably best I the work week has arrived so I can "recover".

-csa

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Priming "done".. thank GOD!
« Reply #73 on: September 04, 2007, 11:59:29 am »
The product you need is called "KILLZ" one or two 'L' not sure on the spelling.  This is supposed to be the best stain blocking paint on the market.  I use it myself on all my priming jobs be it MDF, bondo, plaster.  It comes in two varieties, oil and latex.  I use the latex because of the easy clean up.  It usually takes two to three coats for MDF and Bondo.  Plaster will take one coat.

Keep up the progress.  That priming seems to take the longest but with Killz you can add coats rather quickly usually the next day after a light sanding.  The keyword is light, I use a foam sanding block and just scuff the previous coat.  Then use a tack cloth or wet rag to clean off the sanding residue and add the next coat.  I was able to get Dad's Bartop painted in a week, 3 coats primer, 3 coats color with a little touch up after the fact.  Then I waited a week until I stuck on the artwork with a final 2 coats of clear paint to seal in the artwork.

TTFN and Good luck.
Kaytrim

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel
« Reply #74 on: October 14, 2007, 12:10:59 am »
So believe it or not, lots of work is being done on the cab.  The inside is mostly painted black, and you don't get to see pics of that yet cuz frankly, it's not ready yet.  However, this weekend I've made quite some progress on the control panel.

I've rebuilt the control panel pictured previously because I quickly realized that in order to route the bottom holes for the trackball and joys, I was going to need a flat piece of wood.. not a permanently assembled "l-shape".  Live and learn.  The second time around was faster with my new router skills anyways.

I decided to try the route out the bottom technique I read about in another thread (which I'll reference when I find it again).  What I ended up doing was taking the unit apart, tracing the teardrop pattern onto the wood.  Next, 2.25" hole saw to remove enough to completely surround and hug the plastic lip.  Then, I took a 3/8" strait bit and carved out all but 1/16" inside the teardrop shape, so that from the top it appears to be seamless.  We'll go over the mount more in detail in a few.  I also decided to bottom mount my u360's, dust washer on the bottom.

The bottom and top lips have been routed out to fit snugly as the exactly how the original metal cp did.  The unit is mounted via the same European hinges I used on the back door, so the entire control panel swings up, exposing the innards for easy access (pics of that later).

The MDF was primed with gray killzs primer, then I hit it with 5 or so layers of Krylon spraypaint for plastic sufaces.. wetsanding with 400 grit paper in between.  I spent more time on the top then the bottom, and ultimately, I'll be covering the entire cp with artwork.. but this should make it feel complete until I get around to that stage.  I hand rounded all corners on this unit to soften the feel a bit.

Pics as follows:


Top view.  Top row (p1,coin1,turbotwist,coin2,p2).  Middle row (joy1, p1fighter layout, 2.25 betson trackball, joy2)


bottom view


Front view


Top angle


trackball detail


Bottom angle
« Last Edit: October 14, 2007, 12:13:48 am by csa3d »

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel
« Reply #75 on: October 14, 2007, 12:28:07 am »
So here's how I mounted my 2.25" Electric Ice (Betson) trackball for anyone else who might be curious.

First you need to dissamble and trace the top shape onto your wood.  Cut out the hole with a 2.25" hole saw, then use a strait bit to route out the teardrop shape ALL EXCEPT for about 1/16" (which is about the height of the lip).  Your goal:  To get the lip to fit snugly in the hole and be flush mount with the top of the CP.  Mine is slightly lower then I would have liked, but if I chewed out too much more MDF from that area.. I'm not sure how sturdy it would be.  You are shooting for this:



Now that you have this shape cut out, and made sure everything fits snugly (remember that paint will tighten everything up some), it's time to grab your dremmel tool.  I inserted a small drillbit into the end of it like so.



This is great for getting into small places which my clunky drill could not handle.  What tight spaces you ask?  Look:


Insert the top plate snugly into place


Plunge sideways through the plastic, into the wood.  I had to modify the corner and remove some plastic to access the top right corner securely.

Three 3/4" screws along with the tight routing job and the 2.25" hole hugging the lip.. this thing ain't going anywhere!  Here's what it looks like from the other side:




Now place the bottom of the trackball unit back in place, and secure the four screws which hold the bottom and top together.  Since the top is secured into the wood, these four screws will keep your bottom in place.  The result is a pretty decent trackball mount (in my opinion), which doesn't allow any unusual dust to enter since like some other techniques of removing the top.  Plus, it doesn't force you to loose room on the surrounding sides of the trackball because you had to use brackets to hold it all in.  The install of all the LEDs, cherrys, etc.. I need all the room I could.  Here's the final result:



I have most of the other parts/guts installed, and will post pics of how I did that once I wrap up the wiring.  Hope this helps somebody... mounting these trackballs seems like there's really no one way to do it if you are abandoning that mounting plate.

-csa





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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Coin Door Restoration - 90% Complete
« Reply #76 on: October 14, 2007, 04:29:17 am »
Restoration on my coin door continues, and is at what I'm calling 90% completed.  What still needs done... (snip)

Door looks great!  I need to restore a couple of mine...  a question.  after cleaning with the Dremel disk, how did you paint it?  what paint, etc?
My projects...

Finished:  Stargate (only 'cause I got it that way)
In progress:  Tron, 48-in-1 for School Auction, DKJr (currently a 60-in-1), Millipede, MAME System

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel
« Reply #77 on: October 14, 2007, 04:34:12 am »
That's a clever way to mount that trackball. Nice finish with the paint too.
« Last Edit: October 14, 2007, 04:37:50 am by patrickl »
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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel
« Reply #78 on: October 14, 2007, 04:46:58 am »
I agree, it's great to have the trackball recessed, and this is a very nice way to do it. The Galaxian CP (wood with metal on top of it) makes it possible......  :D

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel
« Reply #79 on: October 14, 2007, 05:22:45 am »
Looks very nice! Keep on 'hotrodding'  :)


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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Coin Door Restoration - 90% Complete
« Reply #80 on: October 14, 2007, 09:18:12 am »
Restoration on my coin door continues, and is at what I'm calling 90% completed.  What still needs done... (snip)

Door looks great!  I need to restore a couple of mine...  a question.  after cleaning with the Dremel disk, how did you paint it?  what paint, etc?

I used Rustoleum Automotive Primer (#2089 Dark Gray) as the base and a bunch of coats of Rustoleum Textured finishing paint (#7220 Black).  You can read full details here

I've recently purchased a can of Rustoleum Hammered paint, and am considering redoing the door paint one more time.  Why?  Well.. since It's been sitting in the garadge with the cab (my current workshop), it got dusty pretty quickly.  Well, because the texture finish is mostly flat, it's very tough to clean.  The hammered stuff probably is a closer texture match,  but it's a bit on the glossy side.  Look wise, this is probably undesirable.  Maintenance wise, this is ideal for washing.  I will probably spray it again, and see how the color turns out.  If it like it.. call it done.  If not, I will probably go back over it with 1 more coat of that texture paint, leaving the hammered texture coat underneath.

I originally quoted out have that thing powder coated, and all my bids came back at ridiculous rates of 150-300$  Guess I don't know the right folks.. so I went to Home Depot and figured it out myself.

-csa

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel
« Reply #81 on: October 14, 2007, 09:21:51 am »
I agree, it's great to have the trackball recessed, and this is a very nice way to do it. The Galaxian CP (wood with metal on top of it) makes it possible......  :D

Yeah, I considered bondo filling the original metal panel, and redrilling.  However, I didn't want to mess with all that, and figured making a brand new one completely out of wood was the way to go.  The only thing I might change next time around, would be to use a more substantially sound wood.  MDF doesn't hold screws worth a dang.  So yeah.. note this control panel is 100% mdf ;)

-csa

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel
« Reply #82 on: October 17, 2007, 09:04:17 pm »
Trackball Havok!

Ok, apparently when reading these forums, I confused "trackball up" in one of the prior threads.  Well, Silly me couldn't get my trackball to work by just plugging it into the computer during my initial test, so I assumed this had something to do with grounding and would fix itself upon wiring.  Looking back, I'm wondering if plugging it directly into the ps2 port and not into a usb->ps2 adapter was the problem (since it's likely that adapter didn't carry power).

At any rate, upon getting my panel wired up and plugging it in, firing it up, I discovered that up/down was switched with left/right.  An email to good ole' RandyT, and it turns out I installed my trackball wrongly.  Take this image:


Note that top of this picture is bottom of the monitor.

Randy informed me of two issues.  First, I should have rotated the unit 90 counter clockwise before routing.  OOooopsss.. you'll see i'm out of room.. and definately once I show you the wiring in a few days.  This was my 2nd control panel, and no way am I making that again!  Second, there are no magical jumpers to reverse things.. but you CAN cross wires.  Green/Yellow is one axis, Blue/Brown the other.  He noted that in doing this, I'd notice a different roll in GoldenTee and other fast spin games, due to the top roller not being at the top of the panel.

After some sulking, and dismantling.. here's my solution.  Using the same hole cutout, rotate the top mount 180 degrees.  This gives you a roller positioned at the top.  Sure, left and right roller will be backwards, but I figured this direction was relatively arbitrary for the sake of golfing.  So far so good, you have a top roller, but you still have wrong axis.  Good to note, is that the interior molex connectors/circuit boards can be moved, swapped.  I swapped the boards so that Y was X and X was Y.  One more test, and seems that now with roller at top, I have the axis right, but polarity of the up/down reversed.  A quick splice of the brown and blue wires.. and reversing them (brown->blue, blue->brown) and everything was in the right position.

Whew!

Only mod I had to make was to get a sanding bit on the dremmel to cut a new ambilical divet on the opposite side of the routed hole.

Not a lot of pics.. this was touch and go, but wanted to make sure no one else followed my example without warning ;)  Apparent, "wires forward" should be interpreted as "wires facing you" if you come across the same thread I did.  At this point, I'm not sure doing it over from scratch, I still get which way is up.  Mine works now, so I'm happy.

-csa

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel
« Reply #83 on: October 18, 2007, 12:01:49 am »
That's a clever way to mount that trackball. Nice finish with the paint too.

I agree. Killer work.

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel
« Reply #84 on: October 21, 2007, 07:53:29 am »
Sweet mother of Galaga!
Very nice work, csa3d!!!!!!!!!!!!
 :applaud:
Sorry about dropping in on this thread so late in the show, but I have to give you two thumbs up!
Great craftsmanship!

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel
« Reply #85 on: October 21, 2007, 10:59:21 pm »
Controls / LEDs installed

So here's some photos of my progress from this week.  I started by using template measurements drawn up in photoshop, printed, and cut into the CP.  I'm currently using these templates to create the artwork.  In the meantime, I thought I'd get the guts installed and tested.  To my surprise, everything seems to work.  He we go:


Top View


Top Angle


Trackball Detail

For the bottom, I had a very small space to sqeeze this all into.  My control panel is designed to hinge upwards 90 degrees to access the rotating monitor, and to work on the panel without having to reach inside the deep, dark depths of the cabinet to find those hidden control panel hinges.  Since it's possible that company would see the underside, I gave it a little extra love.  I created a shelf out of the original black plexi that came with the cab (I've since replaced it with graylite 14) and mounted the wires as though it was an amp rack.  Since the trackball and buttons are lit, it gives the rack a backlit affect.  Images below:


Bottom Wiring


Shelf Detail


Lit Top


Lit Top Angle, Right


Lit Top Angle, Left


Bottom Back Lit

This week is all about getting the artwork finished to match the new layout, and send it off to Scott so I can wrap this puppy up and play!
-csa

« Last Edit: October 21, 2007, 11:06:16 pm by csa3d »

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel
« Reply #86 on: October 22, 2007, 04:03:03 am »
That looks really slick. Great work. Those lighted buttons look bright  :P
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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel
« Reply #87 on: October 22, 2007, 08:54:51 am »
That looks really slick. Great work. Those lighted buttons look bright  :P

Thanks Patrick!

They are fairly bright, but some of that is just the camera's take on things.  My only disappointment thus far is that the E-Ice trackball fully lit is dimmer then the E-Ice buttons fully lit.  I guess I was hoping they would match.  Maybe i'll look into dimming the buttons somehow, if possible.

-csa

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #88 on: November 04, 2007, 11:53:56 pm »
I finally got some free time to shore up the artwork for the CP.  When I began the fabrication, I had used some templates which I mocked up in photoshop to get the spacing and horizontal alignment for the button spacing.  But because my CP is wider then my printer, I had to create multiple templates and align them by hand.  I have found that this technique has made it let's say, "challenging" to guess the exact spacing to draw over top of.

I took 4 sheets of paper, and taped them together to form a long sheet of paper.  I flipped the control panel upside down on this long sheet of paper, and traced out all the holes (which I drilled using printed templates).  I also traced the sides, and was left with an image I planned to scan back into the computer (in 8.5x11" sections) and recombine it in photoshop.  Once this was completed, I overlayed my original printed templates, and lined it up to the scanned in tracing.  The result was a template I'm hoping is fairly accurate.

Next I took my templates which I mocked up months ago, and tweaked them to my final layout.  Here's where I'm at so far.  Next I'll likely take this to Kinko's and have them print the cheapest large format version I can obtain, even it's that's black and white, so I can test the alignment.  Then it's off to Scott at Mame Marquees for final production.  I'm sure even if it lines up at Kinko's, I risk it not properly lining up at Scott's.  I can't imagine it will off by much, and I'm pretty sure I'm not building a 3rd control panel over it it doesn't work out.

Pic 1:  Scanned Template
Pic 2:  Overlayed with artwork, ready for printing (after removing button diagrams)


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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #89 on: November 21, 2007, 01:37:46 pm »
Have anymore updates? Also, do you have any images of your final CPO? I'm doing a Minor restoration on a working Galaxian and "MIGHT" be turning it into a 48 in 1 or a 60 in 1 w/ a custom CPO. However, I'll most likely keep the original harness, PCB and power supply happily in the cabinet so one day it can be a dedicated cabinet again.

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #90 on: November 21, 2007, 02:09:09 pm »
Have anymore updates? Also, do you have any images of your final CPO? I'm doing a Minor restoration on a working Galaxian and "MIGHT" be turning it into a 48 in 1 or a 60 in 1 w/ a custom CPO. However, I'll most likely keep the original harness, PCB and power supply happily in the cabinet so one day it can be a dedicated cabinet again.

Ha.  I've been working on the cab here and there.  I have some major house remodeling happening, so this project has gone backburner until I can move back in to be honest.

The artwork above is final, and when I send it in to Scott at MameMarquees, I'll downsample it to 300dpi and hide the button hole overlay layer in Photoshop.  I can post that final PSD here if there's interest.  It's currently very large, and all in vector format.

As for updates.. I was gonna save them and hit you guys all up at once.  What you've not seen which is completed as follows:
- Interior painted black with foam roller.  I'm 100% sure it's near impossible to get any sort of mirror-esc finish using a roller.  Maybe I suck.  It's fine for what it is.
- Added a vertical board to "box off" the retainer area light box, which holds the GGG NovaMatrix light
- Painted the interior lightbox with chrome spray paint for light dissipation.
- Wired up the NovaMatrix to a RadioShack toggle switch.  It works.. a bit disappointed in weak light output.  Maybe I mounted it too far back?
- Wired up the speakers, cleaned up and painted the grills.  Untested.. assuming they still work fine.
- Painted the access door and reinstalled.  Back is black to match cab interior, exterior is white.
- Sanded down keys to back entry door with steel wool to bring back old luster shine.
- Repainted coin door with Rustoleum Black Hammer finish paint.  The door now looks glossier, not more like the original spatter texture like the paint cap would suggest.
- installed new coin inserts from Rich at ThisOldGame.com <-- Awesome work.. spot on when compared with old ones
- Installed new Manufacturing plate from Rich at ThisOldGame.com <-- same comments, stellar!  Can't wait for him to hurry up and finish the repro gold Midway coindoor badge
- Acquired black leather t-molding, not installed, waiting on art first
- Bought and installed Greylight 14 tempered glass to fit original housing.  No plans for overlay until I finish the rotating monitor solution.

So whew.. lot's of litte things.  On the bad:

My wife knocked over my control panel while moving some stuff around for our remodel, and my GGG Turbo Twist spinner is thrashed.  I am in contact with Randy and he's gonna hopefully be able to Dr. it up.  I also used my friend, Bondo, to fix a sunken and smashed MDF corner on the control panel.  It needs another coat of paint, and I haven't bothered with it yet.  I HAVE attached the CP to the cab to safeguard it from any other workshop mishaps!

Once the remodel completes next week, I will order up the art and hopefully have this puppy playable by Xmas.

-csa

« Last Edit: November 21, 2007, 02:23:52 pm by csa3d »

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #91 on: January 31, 2008, 09:26:58 pm »
Any more updates? I'm turning blue holding my breath. Nice work so far, I'm very curious about the end result.  :cheers:
« Last Edit: January 31, 2008, 09:29:37 pm by Singapura »
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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #92 on: February 02, 2008, 10:21:33 am »
Any more updates? I'm turning blue holding my breath. Nice work so far, I'm very curious about the end result.  :cheers:

I've been biting my tongue since he very first started this project...... If I was to fully state my opinion on this willful destruction of one of the dwindling stocks of original and 100% complete classic cabinets then the air would be more than a bit blue.

Given the amount of work he's done and the amount of destruction he's done he could easily have built one from scratch that externally looked the same. To destroy a classic like this, just because he couldn't be bothered to learn how to fix a faulty monitor is to be blunt disgusting!!

Somebody said it's like Hotrodding a car, and that it's only like fitting disc brakes to a classic car.... Well it isn't!! Because contrary to promises he made when he started this, this is in NO WAY a fully reversible modification to the classic cab.

I weep at the loss of another one!! This is exactly the sort of thing that gives us a very bad name in the restoration community of genuine collectors.

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« Last Edit: February 02, 2008, 10:37:44 am by Fozzy The Bear »
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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #93 on: February 02, 2008, 06:59:57 pm »
Given the amount of work he's done and the amount of destruction he's done he could easily have built one from scratch that externally looked the same. To destroy a classic like this, just because he couldn't be bothered to learn how to fix a faulty monitor is to be blunt disgusting!!

Fozzy, you are correct.  Looking back, this project would have likely ended up the same should I have built it from scratch.  I can tell you that some parts I have restored, some parts I have modified, and some parts were completely created from scratch.  At this point in the game, I feel confident that no matter what my next cab will be, I NOW have the skills I need to do a complete restore or a complete scratch build.

I never purchased the original cabinet in hopes of having the original monitor working, nor have the galaxian game play.  I purchased the cabinet 1.) because I like how the original cab looks, shape and artwork and 2.) Because even using Jack-o-bud's plans, having a complete cabinet was the template I needed to understand how various things went together etc.  I've parted out the PCB, and still have the original glass which I will also part out to you or any other collector who desires it.  The fact of the matter was that this cab was purchased at an auction, and now has a new life of it's own.  It will be greatly enjoyed by many, and I'm sorry you feel so strongly.  When all is said and done, it will still look 95% like an original Galaxian machine.  I don't understand why you feel the need to continue with the negative vibes at this point in the game; you have voiced your opinions and we're past that.

To others looking for updates with constructive criticisms, Scott has sent an emailing saying the side art has been shipped, and it didn't make it in this weekend.  So cross your fingers for updates next week!

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #94 on: February 03, 2008, 08:34:07 am »
I NOW have the skills I need to do a complete restore or a complete scratch build.

Then you could just as easily have learned those skills butchering a generic cab that is of no historical importance.

I never purchased the original cabinet in hopes of having the original monitor working, nor have the galaxian game play. 

According to your original posts the Galaxian Game was playing!! just a dead monitor.

I don't understand why you feel the need to continue with the negative vibes at this point in the game; you have voiced your opinions and we're past that.

That's precisely the point. You don't understand what you have done to a piece of our heritage. To an item of historical importance. This is not about "negative vibes" it's about the destruction of another classic arcade machine.  You may be passed that... Many of us are NOT!  While I'll acknowledge that at the end of the day, the cabinet was your property and therefore legally you can do as you wish with it, I will not acknowledge that it is morally right or acceptable in any way to butcher an evidently restorable item like that, to build a Mame cabinet. This wilfull destruction brings this entire comunity into disrepute.

I pitty you, if you can not understand what it is you have done.
 
Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)
« Last Edit: February 03, 2008, 08:38:04 am by Fozzy The Bear »
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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #95 on: February 03, 2008, 10:37:23 am »
You've thrown around the term "destroy" which is appropriately over-dramatic.  The basic structure of the cabinet as a whole has been preserved, if anything.

Fozzy, your posts read like a bad off-off- Broadway play.  We know your opinion.  Thanks for sharing.  Now, I'd say it's time to let it go.  Especially, given that you inexpicably bit your tongue and now, with this discussion seemingly over, appear to only be trying to stir the pot.

Just the two cents we're all entitled.


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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #96 on: February 03, 2008, 11:06:51 am »
You've thrown around the term "destroy" which is appropriately over-dramatic.  The basic structure of the cabinet as a whole has been preserved, if anything.

You are indeed entitled to your two cents, as you say. and I respect your two cents.

But it's in no way over dramatic. The supply of original complete cabs is not inexhaustible. They were made in relatively limited numbers. Most of them are already gone. In a few years there will be no more of them. To destroy a complete one like this and then to come on here to brag about the supposed achievement remains very sad and depressing. I still weep for the loss of this classic.

And it does bring this forum into disrepute!

But for those of you that care nothing for our heritage, then feel free to do whatever you do. Just don't expect me to remain silent when you vandalise something like this.

Nuff said... The point is made!

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)
« Last Edit: February 03, 2008, 11:08:30 am by Fozzy The Bear »
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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #97 on: February 03, 2008, 11:26:28 am »
Can we all please keep this thread focused on comments/questions pertaining to the build, and move all ethical debates to another thread?  I'm not asking you to not share opinions, I'm asking that we please respect the original topic of this thread, which was to highlight progress made on this current build.

Thanks in advance.

-csa

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #98 on: February 03, 2008, 11:45:08 am »
Can we all please keep this thread focused on comments/questions pertaining to the build, and move all ethical debates to another thread?  I'm not asking you to not share opinions, I'm asking that we please respect the original topic of this thread, which was to highlight progress made on this current build.

Thanks in advance.

-csa

 :cheers:   :)

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #99 on: February 03, 2008, 12:04:32 pm »
Can we all please keep this thread focused on comments/questions pertaining to the build, and move all ethical debates to another thread?  I'm not asking you to not share opinions, I'm asking that we please respect the original topic of this thread, which was to highlight progress made on this current build.

Thanks in advance.

-csa

Very classy and professional response.  Cheers!   :cheers:

P.S.  I love the cabinet.  Great job.

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #100 on: February 03, 2008, 03:21:44 pm »
Rant moved to main forum in an effort to unbunch Sgt. McCoy's panties...


« Last Edit: February 04, 2008, 11:09:26 am by FrizzleFried »
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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #101 on: February 03, 2008, 04:03:30 pm »
Anyone looking for ethical debates, flame wars, or to speak out with all your veteran knowledge, please help the community grow by chiming in on the Complete Rule Book thread.  I've started one for you guys since apparently no one adhere to my request to quit cluttering up this thread.

thanks again
-csa

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #102 on: February 03, 2008, 04:14:30 pm »
Anyone looking for ethical debates, flame wars, or to speak out with all your veteran knowledge, please help the community grow by chiming in on the Complete Rule Book thread.  I've started one for you guys since apparently no one adhere to my request to quit cluttering up this thread.

thanks again
-csa

I think the original sized type would have sufficed. 

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #103 on: February 03, 2008, 04:30:18 pm »
Anyone looking for ethical debates, flame wars, or to speak out with all your veteran knowledge, please help the community grow by chiming in on the Complete Rule Book thread.  I've started one for you guys since apparently no one adhere to my request to quit cluttering up this thread.

thanks again
-csa

I think the original sized type would have sufficed. 



I think you could have read my above polite request to unclutter my thread..

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #104 on: February 03, 2008, 04:40:49 pm »
Buddy, if you put a project up for opinions, you unfortunately can't dictate that you only want opinions that you agree with. Such is the nature of this hobby.

However, if you are putting reproduction galaxian artwork on the front and sides, then it's not too bad.  I mean, the original artwork was pretty rough.  I -might- suggest you put the original galaxian board back in it (I didn't read what you planned to do with the board), so that if someone really wanted to switch it back, it would be fairly easy.  The original board would be the tough part to find.  The way I look at it, if you keep the sides looking like stock, keep the original bezel and marquee, and the game board, then it's just a monitor, wiring harness and replacement control panel away from coming back to life (more or less). 

Just my $.02
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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #105 on: February 03, 2008, 04:42:35 pm »
Rant moved to main forum...

« Last Edit: February 04, 2008, 11:08:17 am by FrizzleFried »
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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #106 on: February 03, 2008, 04:48:50 pm »
Buddy, if you put a project up for opinions, you unfortunately can't dictate that you only want opinions that you agree with. Such is the nature of this hobby.

Agreed.  I acknowledge the statements made by Fozzy and Frizzle, but we hashed these over months ago on page 1 or so.

However, if you are putting reproduction galaxian artwork on the front and sides, then it's not too bad.  I mean, the original artwork was pretty rough.

I have purchased all original full size vinyl printed reproduction artwork from Scott at MameMarquees.com, due to arrive next week.  The original marquee has been cleaned and polished, the retainers have been sanded to metal and repainted original black, I have re-painted the inside black areas because they were cracking and scratched.  The coindoor has been fully restored minus a metal screen printed plate (which I have been holding out on for restorations sake), and I even had ThisOldGame reprint a fresh Midway badge for the back. 

I -might- suggest you put the original galaxian board back in it (I didn't read what you planned to do with the board)

That board now lives happily with Peale.  No word on if it was fixable or not.

-csa

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #107 on: February 04, 2008, 04:35:38 am »

Also,  as Zakk pointed out.  This IS a forum.  Don't like what I have to say?  Tell your troubles to Jesus...he listens (perhaps?!)...I don't.


yes it is a forum.. and people usually tend to stay on topic of the OP.  The morality of Maming a collectable is not the topic.  Also, calling somebody a --cream-filled twinkie-- or saying their project is asstastic isnt exactly appropriate either.  Like it or not the cabinet has been gutted, the artwork peeled of and its getting Mamed.  Perhaps you and Fozzy can take up donations to save #7533 and Csa3D will sell the cab to you guys.  Although there are lots of collectors that frequent this site its still called BYOAC and csa3D is building his own

This is exactly the sort of thing that gives us a very bad name in the restoration community of genuine collectors.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)


Since when did BYOAC become "the restoration community of genuine collectors" ???

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #108 on: February 04, 2008, 09:35:33 am »
This is exactly the sort of thing that gives us a very bad name in the restoration community of genuine collectors.


Since when did BYOAC become "the restoration community of genuine collectors" ???

I didn't say it was..... The restoration and collectors community exists outside of here as well as inside of here, and this appaling destruction is what gives BYOAC a bad name in it!

just because this is not a specific restoration community does not give people the right to destroy things. See the BYOAC mission statement written by Saint: "Please do be mindful that we don't destroy what we're trying to re-create.  Many classic arcade machines are rare and worth a heck of a lot more intact than altered." Destroying a more or less complete classic just so you can play games at home is NEVER OK.

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #109 on: February 04, 2008, 02:44:46 pm »
look, I'm a preservationist to a degree myself.. and I'm playing devil's advocate to some degree here.. I've done several restorations myself and its a very rewarding thing to be preserving a piece of American culture for future generations.

My whole problem with the arguement are statements like this...

just because this is not a specific restoration community does not give people the right to destroy things.


whether or not you like it or agree with it, folks have the right to do whatever they want with their own property. 

Quote
Many classic arcade machines are rare and worth a heck of a lot more intact than altered."

There's another debatable statement.  I have an empty Robotron 2084 cabinet, several Stargate cabs and a few Pac/Ms Pacman cabinet.  Most of them are conversions that have been painted over with black paint.  The Robotron is the best of the bunch and although it was converted to ...MORTAL KOMBAT (not by me!) the side art is perfectly intact.  I know if I tried to Mame it folks would kill me but if I tried to sell it as an empty cab I might get $50... You cant even buy enough plywood to build your own cab with $50.  Not to mention the other materials, time, effort, labors etc and some people flat out just dont have the tools or the know-how to do woodworking.  So as far as the question of worth... well, for $50 it wouldnt be worth it to me to start from scratch...  but sure, restoring it gives you all sort of warm fuzzies that money cant buy.

If you want to say to the guy "Man, that thing probably just needed a cap kit!  You probably could've fixed the monitor and turned around and sold that thing for 600-800 bucks!"   Fine, have at it.  but to question the man's ethics and act as some sort of moral authority of classic gaming... well, that I don't think is right


at least he didnt turn it into a couch... :D


« Last Edit: February 04, 2008, 02:47:54 pm by brandon »

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #110 on: February 04, 2008, 07:22:08 pm »
I MAME'd a former Robotron cabinet, but it was completely gutted, the control panel drilled out with different relocated joysticks and buttons, CP covered over with new artwork, side art painted over with aqua blue, then black on top of it. About the only thing original inside was the Williams power supply and the glass bezel (which had the instruction card removed/painted over and a little flaking on the paint). I still have the power supply and haven't really done anything extra to to the cab, so I guess it could always be converted back if someone wanted to do the work. I've only drilled a couple of tiny holes for admin buttons (tab, esc and pause), but the CP would need to be replaced anyway on a restoration. The only other stuff in the cabinet was a Final Fight marquee and Final Fight PCB (which I assume is either non-functional, or not worth anything, or it wouldn't have been left in ;) ) I only paid 10 bucks for the cab at an auction, so the price was right. The bottom of the cab is a little rough too.

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #111 on: February 04, 2008, 10:21:44 pm »
Well I don't know if it's relevant or not ...

I do feel that a semi-rare or rare cabinet should be restored if possible.  That being said -- I tried to contact *ALL* of the owners of the trackball version of Rampart to see if I could get the side art recreated (furthermore so it would be available to others trying to reproduce it) and not ONE owner of the cabinet was willing to take the 5 minutes required to snap a picture and email it to me.

Not one.

Now imagine how pissed off I'd be if I had managed to snag a Rampart cabinet and was trying to restore it?
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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #112 on: February 04, 2008, 10:28:44 pm »
not ONE owner of the cabinet was willing to take the 5 minutes required to snap a picture and email it to me.

Good job that's in hand now  ;)

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)
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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #113 on: February 04, 2008, 10:43:00 pm »
not ONE owner of the cabinet was willing to take the 5 minutes required to snap a picture and email it to me.

Good job that's in hand now  ;)

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

 ;D
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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #114 on: February 04, 2008, 11:09:21 pm »
Control panel and wiring look top notch!  :cheers:
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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #115 on: February 05, 2008, 12:08:19 am »
Reproduction Art Arrives!

So tonight my full reproduction artwork from Scott at MameMarquees.com has arrived.   I'd order again in a heartbeat.  Controversy here or not, I am uber impressed!  I was not expecting it to look quite as nice as it did (I've seen some really horrible reproduction inkjet printed art at the auction house.)  The vinyl texture might be slightly off, but it is pretty darn close to looking like the torn up, vandalized, mess of art that used to be on the sides.   No one gets to see images now that you've all acted up so much!   :laugh2: 

Hopefully I'll get spare time this weekend to put it on and snap off a few.  I hope everyone settles down a bit after the next update, and sits back and starts to enjoy this project.  If not, f-it, the artwork reprint is gorgeous!

-csa

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #116 on: February 05, 2008, 12:13:59 am »
Reproduction Art Arrives!

So tonight my full reproduction artwork from Scott at MameMarquees.com has arrived.   I'd order again in a heartbeat.  Controversy here or not, I am uber impressed!  I was not expecting it to look quite as nice as it did (I've seen some really horrible reproduction inkjet printed art at the auction house.)  The vinyl texture might be slightly off, but it is pretty darn close to looking like the torn up, vandalized, mess of art that used to be on the sides.   No one gets to see images now that you've all acted up so much!   :laugh2: 

Hopefully I'll get spare time this weekend to put it on and snap off a few.  I hope everyone settles down a bit after the next update, and sits back and starts to enjoy this project.  If not, f-it, the artwork reprint is gorgeous!

-csa

No pics of the side art = riot!!

Seriously though, I'd love to see some shots of the side art when you have a sec.  Once my unnamed benefactor  :applaud: is done with my artwork I'm going to be salivating to get it ordered from Mame Marquees.
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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #117 on: February 05, 2008, 12:19:20 am »
Reproduction Art Arrives!

So tonight my full reproduction artwork from Scott at MameMarquees.com has arrived.   I'd order again in a heartbeat.  Controversy here or not, I am uber impressed!  I was not expecting it to look quite as nice as it did (I've seen some really horrible reproduction inkjet printed art at the auction house.)  The vinyl texture might be slightly off, but it is pretty darn close to looking like the torn up, vandalized, mess of art that used to be on the sides.   No one gets to see images now that you've all acted up so much!   :laugh2: 

Hopefully I'll get spare time this weekend to put it on and snap off a few.  I hope everyone settles down a bit after the next update, and sits back and starts to enjoy this project.  If not, f-it, the artwork reprint is gorgeous!

-csa

you should've order Galaga artwork and did a conversion... LOL  that'd really get em torqued! ;)

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #118 on: February 05, 2008, 07:32:41 am »
you should've order Galaga artwork and did a conversion... LOL  that'd really get em torqued! ;)

Now that's just silly talk !  ;)
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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #119 on: February 17, 2008, 01:17:09 am »
I would also like to see updated pics.

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #120 on: February 17, 2008, 12:13:08 pm »
I'm surprised to see how nasty some people around here can get.

To the OP good luck, it looks like you are doing a great job!

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #121 on: February 17, 2008, 08:00:59 pm »
Well, here it is.  I applied the artwork last weekend.  The artwork MameMarquees provided came on giant rolls of sticky sided vinyl, much like a giant sticker.  Though I provided Scott with exact measurements of the cab (which were a tad smaller then his standard "full size"), he still sent me full sized artwork.  Ok, I didn't think much of it because in the end, it ended up working out, and not much difference was noticed when trimming it off.

My sides and front of the cabinet were primed with white paint only, to prevent mold and aged must from re-emerging.  I windexed these areas well and dried them completely before applying the stickers.  they went on well, without a problem, although it took two people to maneuver it just right.  They stuck on fine, no bubbles, trimmed up well, and I was pretty pleased.  This process took about 2 hours I'd guestimate.

Well, a day later, the front the right side and front of cabinet began to peal away.  No matter how many times i try to stick it back down, it keeps coming back off.  It would appear to me, that the sticky vinyl material was not meant to go onto primed wood.  I'm currently kinda bummed.  That artwork set me back 260$.  I will be making a trip to the hardware store to find some sort of glue to remedy this problem.  As it stands, I'm not sure I'd want spray adhesive, because I don't want to overspray onto the artwork or finished interior paint.  I'm thinking I need some sort of laminate glue like used on countertops, and spread it on thinly, doing half of the artwork at a time and letting it set, so that it still lines up properly.

Worse case senario is that I'll have to re-order this artwork and do that part over again.  This is a busy week or two with family coming into town and work deadlines, so until this issues has resolved itself, there will be no pictoral updates to stir any "I told you so" pots. ;)

-csa
« Last Edit: February 18, 2008, 08:30:06 am by csa3d »

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #122 on: February 17, 2008, 08:41:20 pm »
OUCH!

I can't imagine what I'd do if I spent that kind of money on something that got fubared. I hope you can find some glue that'll do the trick.

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #123 on: February 19, 2008, 06:11:06 am »
Your control panel design is a great way to MAME a classic but I don't agree with LCD and ditching the vertical layout.  But, whatever.

Here are my panels keeping in the theme of the cabinets:




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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #124 on: March 12, 2008, 08:53:31 am »
Awesome CP for the space you have, I am currently considering adding a trackball to my CP which is just 6" by 26".

Could I ask some questions...

I noticed you ditched the idea of 2p buttons in the end, was this after working on a test CP?

What are the vertical dimensions of your CP?

Have you had any problems with the 'thinness' of the MDF on the trackball mount?

How did you so carefully route out the round corners of the trackball case - is there a trick? My router seems to have a 'route' of its own!

And most importantly, playing games like Marble madness or Golden tee have you had any problems with proximity of controls?

Sorry to ask so many questions!!

Ex
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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #125 on: March 12, 2008, 09:43:44 am »
I noticed you ditched the idea of 2p buttons in the end, was this after working on a test CP?

If you take a look at the underside of my control panel, the right side of that picture is where player 2 buttons were originally slated to go.  The PCB on the right is from the TurboTwist spinner, and that cord was only so long.  I thought about mounting it to the front of my control panel (top of picture), but because my control panel hinges upwards from the top, I figure there's a chance someone could grab it accidentally while doing this, or that it may get caught on something.  The included wires weren't long enough to relocate it to the other side, but I suppose you could if you *really* wanted to.  So yeah, you could probably squeeze those buttons in.

The way I started my layout, was with the two joysticks.  My cab has high sides, so if you mount them too wide, your wrists are going to hit the edges, which would make playing terrible.  I mounted them as wide as I felt I could.  Then based on a button dimensions thread, the spacing for the 6 button layout determined how much space I had for the trackball and player 2 side.  Next was the trackball and spinner.  The trackball ate up a lot more space underneath then I anticipated, and when it was all said and done, adding those two extra buttons on the player 2 side seemed silly.  P2's hands would be so close together that I figured why bother.  Plus with the high sides, and 23.75" of elbow room, I decided this was going to be a 1 player only cab.  That won't be an issue in my current household.  If you went with 4 buttons in a diamond shape vs. 6 player street fighter layout, then you would probably have greater success.  Your other option would be to nix the trackball (which was not an option in my mind).

What are the vertical dimensions of your CP?
I'm pretty sure it was about 6 inches.  I can measure tonight when I'm home.  I built the current CP based on the romstar one which came with the cab.

Have you had any problems with the 'thinness' of the MDF on the trackball mount?
All this time, and I have ironically, not even fired my machine up!  I'm currently working on a rotating monitor solution, and don't want to loose site of the prize.

How did you so carefully route out the round corners of the trackball case - is there a trick? My router seems to have a 'route' of its own!
I suppose I held on tight and tried to keep a steady line.  I had traced the trackball onto the wood before starting, and the rounded edges were created from the diameter of the router bit.  If you search the forums, others have discussed methods of making templates.  I figured, that wasn't important, I'm only doing this once, and if I goofed up it would be under the panel where most no one will ever look.


And most importantly, playing games like Marble madness or Golden tee have you had any problems with proximity of controls?
I'll have to let you know in another couple months at the rate I'm going on my build.. (stupid real life..)  :badmood:

Sorry to ask so many questions!!
Yeah.. you have exceeded your quota  :laugh2:  Feel free to ask whatever else, always glad to help

-csa

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Rotating Monitor work continues...
« Reply #126 on: March 12, 2008, 09:51:33 am »
Since last we left off (to update the progress further), I've affixed the peeling vinyl back onto the machine using contact cement.  It's not coming back off now!  Doing it over, I'd probably have used spray adhesive, as the contact cement dried super fast, and made the surface underneath show imperfections as the glue balled up and dried.  Bubbles happened as well, and I've got most of them out using the push technique and pinning the others.  I'm fairly certain that if I undertake another cab, I will probably go with laminate or do a woody style cab.  Full sized vinyl artwork is no joke.  At any rate, while I was mildly disappointed with with end result, it still looks 100 times better then when I pulled it from it's grave months back.

Work continues on the rotating monitor, with help from TeamRotate :)
« Last Edit: March 12, 2008, 09:53:35 am by csa3d »

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #127 on: March 12, 2008, 11:43:49 am »
Thanks for all your answers.

I think you got the happs 2.25" TB? What are the dimensions of the case, or area you routed out? That will help me determine whether I have space.

If you a have dimensions diagram for joys/buttons etc on for reasons of proximity I would be interested.
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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #128 on: March 12, 2008, 01:22:56 pm »
I think you got the happs 2.25" TB? What are the dimensions of the case, or area you routed out? That will help me determine whether I have space.

I got the 2.25" from GroovyGameGear.com, and I think it's ultimately a modified betson imperial.  I think Randy has trackball mounting pdf's somewhere on his site.. I know mine came shipped with something like that.

If you a have dimensions diagram for joys/buttons etc on for reasons of proximity I would be interested.

The Control Panel Hole Sizes thread is the best I can give you for these.  Check the manufacturer's sites for other dimensions perhaps.  I'm convinced that at some point in time, you cannot exactly plan for everything, and it becomes a matter of trial and error.. unless of cource, you completely model out all parts in Sketup.. which may or may not be under progress still.

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Control Panel Artwork
« Reply #129 on: March 12, 2008, 02:11:33 pm »
Thought it was from GGG, the electric ice-t i think, I found the pdf for the 3" but was unsure if the 2.25" had the same case size. If you could measure one side (as if it were a square) then I can confirm. There is only one pdf on Randy's site.

Re hole sizes, I am ok with the sizes, already have an existing panel, but guess was more interested on how close you had put your admin buttons next to the p1/p2 joys and how close you put the spinner to the trackball.

I assume that when you (part) finished the CP you had a little pretend play ;) to see whether you thought it 'worked' or not, hence I am considering using those measurements as the min I can go - if you see what I mean.

BTW, my cp design is progressing here.
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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Rotating LCD Mount
« Reply #130 on: March 23, 2008, 02:51:15 am »
Rotating Monitor Mount

This weekend has been big, as the rotating monitor mount has come to fruition!  Special thanks to all who helped me get to this point.  Be sure to check out the following links to understand how I got to this point:

Psychotech's Axle Design
My fight with a Lazy Susan bearing
Creator of the Mala rotating plugin, and master rotator himself

And now here we go!

Parts

        You'll need the Pizza Pan and VESA mounting holes from this thread first!

       
       

        2x        Bones Red skateboard bearings (from your local skate shop, get the highest rated ones you can afford, they come in 8 packs btw)
        1x        2", 5/16" threaded bolt (Lowes.com, come in 2 packs)
        2x        5/16" nuts with locks built into them (Lowes, come in 2 packs, I suppose you could get separate lock washers..)
        1x        5/16" wing nuts (Lowes, came in 2 packs..)
        2x        m4 - .70 16mm screws (for vesa mount only, Lowes)
        2x        m4 - .70 20mm screws (for vesa mount and stoppers, Lowes)
        4x        1/4" nylon spacers, must fit over m4 screws (Lowes)
        4x        small L-Brackets (Lowes)
        8x        small felt chair pads (Lowes)
        2x        skinny, long (2-3") bolts + lock washers + nuts. (for limits, Lowes)
        a few   1 1/2" wood screws (Lowes)
        many   1/2" wood screws (Lowes)
        1x        standard short, Ethernet cable (I had tons of these, they come with everything apparently)
        2x        coin return switches (Divemaster here on BYOAC forums)
        6x        Crimp Connectors to fit coin switches (Lowes)
        1x        Ethernet femal to Printer Port male connector (Online link from here on another thread I can't remember offhand)
        many   1/4" nylon wire fasteners (Frys)
        1x        BYOAC Team Rotate motor kit
        1x        12 Port Terminal Block (Radioshack)
        2x        Wide L-Brackets for support bar (Lowes)
        1x        1x3x4" Piece of real wood (I used Aspen, MDF holds screws for %$&!)
        1x        pack of sandpaper
        1x        wood glue


Tools

        Drill
        various drill bits (1/2", 1/8", and a few others)
        Wire cutters
        Plyers
        Adjustable Wrench
        Screwdrivers
        Utility Knife
        Wire Crimpers
        Dremmel tool + sanding disks
        Soldering Kit
        7/8" Fostner Bit

Process

        1.  Take your 1x3x4, cut it to cab width.  Mark the center point.  I drew an "x" from corner to corner, and also marked half way point, to be doubly sure.
       
       

        2.  Drill a small pilot hole down through the center of your X.  If you have a drill press, now is the time to use it!  This hole will determine the axle's position on both sides of the brace.
       

        3.  Take a 7/8" Fostner bit, and using your pilot hole, drill down just far enough to allow the skate bearing to lay flush with the top of the wood.  Since I don't have a drill press, I stopped every so often, and tested it's level, making adjustments as I went further down.  The result should be the bearing laying flush with the top of the wood.  It will be a tad loose, but a 3/4" Fostner bit was too tight.  Maybe a drill press would have made it more snug.  You could always paint the inside.. anyways..
       

        Repeat this step for the reverse side.

        4.  Now you need to drill out a hole to go the whole way through the holes we just drilled, so the axle can slide through.  If you look at the bearing, there's an inside metal ring.  You do not want this ring touching the wood.  Therefore, I used a 1/2" drill bit to remove a doughnut from the center.  If I had a drill press, it would have been better centered.  As long as this hole is bigger then the interior metal ring of the bearing, you are good.  This allows that ring to rotate freely which is what we want.  The machined bearing is what the axle passes though, and that is exact.. meaning we don't necessarily have to be.
       
       

        Now is a good time to clean up this hole with some sandpaper.  Be sure to get it as dust free as possible before inserting your bearing.  Don't worry, you've got 6 more if you goof!

        You are now done with the axle's female mount!

        5.  Now we focus back on the Pizza Pan which we have drilled for our VESA Mount.  It needs the male acceptor.  Mark the center of your pan, if you have not all ready done so.  Love that machined precision of the airflow holes!
       

        7.  Insert the bolt so that the bolt sticks out the bottom of the pizza pan.  Lock it down tight with your locknut.
       

        8.  While we're drilling holes, you'll want to add bolts to catch the limit swich arms.  Locate 1 quadrant of your pizza pan (on a clock, 12 to 3).  You want to drill out 2 holes just large enough to accept your long, skinny bolts.  From the top resting foot, choose the hole 1 to the top right, then down one.  From the right resting foot, choose the hole 1 up, then 1 towards the center.  The below image is of the 3 o'clock hole, only the image is rotate 90 degrees counter clockwise.. (sorry, for crappy pic, I drilled out like 6 holes till I got this right)
       

       Your final product should be this:
       

       Congrats!  You've made the Male Axle Acceptor!

        9.  Now let's mount the plate onto the montor.  Grab 4 spacers, place them over the VESA holes.  Place the plate upside down over the spacers, so the plate's feet are facing you.  Take your 2 small (16mm) vesa screws and mount them at 10 o'clock and 4 o'clock in the VESA holes you made previously.  Now grab 4 of those small L-Brackets, and place 2 of them 90 degrees to one another as to make a right angle stopper.  Cover the vertical mount with felt, which will bump against the wood as it swings around.  Use the longer (20mm) VESA screws to secure them to the plate, while also attaching the plate to the monitor.  Now you can also mount the wood female brace to the plate, the order goes like such:

        Monitor -> spacers -> Pizza Plate -> 2" Bolt -> Locknut -> Bearing (red side down) -> wood cross brace -> Bearing (red side up) -> locknut (lock side up, not towards bearing) -> Wingnut


        See image below for further clarification.
       
       

        10.  Did you notice there's switches attached all ready??  That's cuz I'm a bad photo journalist!  You'll want to mount these now, unlike the pics.  One of them mounts right side up, the other upside down.  You'll need spacers for the upside down one, or else the trigger arm will catch on the wood.  I used some green brick hanger insert (screw into bricks), and cut them to length.  You could use a bic pen, or go buy some.  I made this up on the fly, as did most of the rest of this process from here on.  How far did I mount them from the center hole?  Far enough so I heard the arm trigger the click JUST before hitting the felt.  I figure that's enough room to bend the trigger arm to adjust for play.
       
       
       

       Note:  I had to bore the switch mounting holes a bit larger to accept wood screws.

        11.  Now you need to mount the hobby wheel, so it rests on the pizza pan, and will eventually spin the whole setup via software.  Do do so, I cut 2 small sections from the remaining Aspen 1x3x4, to make an angled piece to stick out from the cross brace, which holds the motor.  This was something I eyeballed up, making sure the wheel was parallel to one of the side feet of the pizza pan.  When buying the parts from Solobarics, I bought the stupid motor mounting bracket.. which one would think is a good idea.  Unfortunately, it's designed to be mounted on the same side as the wheel we want to use, which prevents the wheel from being able to be mounted.  Not to fear, flip that bracket over to the other side of the motor, bore out to top corner pass through hole a bit deeper, and bolt it together tightly.  You'll have to bore the metal bracket hole deeper to match also.  Another on the fly adjustment, done out of sheer willpower to use this stupid part that I bought that didn't work out of the box.  Fasten the driver mount securely to your cross brace with 1 1/2" wood screws and glue.  You're completed setup should resemble something like such:

       
       
       

        12.  Now all that's left is to follow the wiring guide that weisshaupt documented in his Mala Plugin for Parallel Port Control  This will take you quite a bit of time and frustration.  Mine is wired up using the Advanced 2, Pulse Modulation Control instructions.  It has not been tested just yet, but I've wired it to be separated into three sections:  a.) Driver Board  b.) Limit Switches  c.) Parallel Port  If something fails, I should be able to easily replace any one part of the setup without having to undo the whole she-bang.  Here's where I'm leaving you for today:

       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       

That's where I'm at so far with this.  Should be able to test this out very soon, I only need to hook up power from the PC and get Mala and said plug-ins working to let you know for sure.  I can tell you, that the bearing is working great!  Also, be sure your driver wheel is on the BOTTOM of the monitor position.  You might also need to wedge some felt pads between the wooden cross brace and pizza plate on the side OPPOSITE of the motor, to force the plate to touch the rubber wheel.  This also will give you the tiny bit of friction you need to control speed.  I'm impressed personally, with the little amount of mounting height needed to make this work.  I feel this setup could probably be slimmed down even further for another idea I have brewing. (LOL, gotta finish this project first!)

Hope this was helpful to someone.  More info coming another weekend.

-csa
« Last Edit: March 23, 2008, 03:14:48 am by csa3d »

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Rotating LCD Mount
« Reply #131 on: March 23, 2008, 02:29:10 pm »
 :notworthy:

That is just brilliant  :applaud:

Great design and clean execution along with an excellent documentation make this a must read for anyone planning to build a rotating monitor mechanism.

Eagerly waiting for some moving pictures ;)

Great stuff  :cheers:

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Rotating LCD Mount
« Reply #132 on: March 23, 2008, 11:18:26 pm »
I agree. Great work.
I am still working on rotating a 19" CRT. If you use an LCD, then I think you guys have the way to go.
I have been playing around with Weishaupts mala plugin and it seems to be working great for my setup.
I dont want to get all mushy here, but it is great to be able to share ideas and methods.
It would take forever to work this out if I had to start from square one.
Keep up the good work guys!

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Rotating LCD Mount
« Reply #133 on: March 30, 2008, 11:50:21 am »
Bezel Cut

This weekend was pretty busy with family matters, so I didn't get too much done.  I did manage to get the rotating monitor Bezel cut however.  The top sheet is 1/4" MDF, and the disk which I'll adhere to the monitor is 1/8" hardboard.  I managed to only screw up one piece of wood while cutting this, so not too shabby I'd say.  When cutting circles, and accounting for the router bit in the diameter, note to self, that you'll need to account for offsets on BOTH sides of the final diameter.   :dizzy:

If you're wondering what that white crap is on the corner.. well, I purchased a can of spray lacquer, and it had a black top.. and my stupid self assumed it meant it would be super shiny black.  WRONG!  Back to the store later this week.




-csa



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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Bezel Cut
« Reply #134 on: March 30, 2008, 01:45:24 pm »
Awesome job on the coin door.  I too just recently restored an old coin-door that I got off of E-Bay for $10.00.  I found that letting everything soak in a rust remover for a while got rid of all the rust and most of the gold plating as well.   :P  Still, after much hard work it looks awesome. 

I too used the hammered black paint and wasn't too happy with the results.  It didn't have nearly the same texture as I expected it to.  It also was much glossier than I would have liked.  So I went and got a semi-gloss black paint and painted over it with that.  It now looks perfect.

After finishing with the restoration, a friend of mine said "Why didn't you just use truck-bed liner?  It's the same texture, and color, and it is super durable."  After he said that, I smacked myself in the head for not thinking of that first.  It is incredibly tough and chemically bonds with anything it touches making it almost impossible to remove.  It has the texture, color and sheen that I would be looking for too.  Since it will still be a while before I finish my cab, I may strip the black paint off and go with the bed liner route.
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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Bezel Cut
« Reply #135 on: April 03, 2008, 12:41:43 am »
Truck bed liner?
That sounds interesting.
Please keep us posted as to how that turns out (pics too)
Csa3d:
Great job on the circle cuttin'

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: LCD Rotations issues...
« Reply #136 on: April 18, 2008, 11:31:55 am »
Two steps forward, one step back!

So I've mounted the monitor, got the software rotation/wiring working at 75% completion, when a few things happen:

1.  I've realized that the weight of the 21.3" monitor is putting too much stress on the 5/8" area used as the rotation fulcrum (main bolt).  The pan has about 1/2" wobble, and this time, not around the bolt through the wood mount, but across the bolt head/pan intersection.  This is causing too much pressure being applied on the motor wheel, which in turn, causes the motor to struggle to the point of almost not being able to rotate in one direction, and needed a gentle push in the other direction.  A stronger motor might solve this, but at the same time, so would a redesign of how all the pieces fit together.  It makes me kinda grumpy to even think about redoing the mount, but it's not been a real joy mounting the cross brace by yourself.  So that will be one consideration in the rebuild.  Also, the spacing between the multiple bezels, I'd prefer to see mounted to the cross brace instead of the monitor anyways.  AND.. i feel the cross brace even when mounted with three screws on both sides of the cab, sill had a bit too much twisting capabilities.  I think next brace will be more "shelf" like.  Also to note, the umbilical cord of wires coming from marquee light, power buttons, and sound cords interfere with bezel removal.  More things to consider..

2.  While messing with trying to relieve the motor strain, I ended up tearing off one of those flimsy soldering mounts on the end of the hobby motor.  That's the second one that's happened to, so I have no spares.  Time to hit Hobby Lobby.

So right now:

1.  Everything is mounted, but will have to come out and be redesigned.
2.  A new motor will need to be purchased, or I'm going to have to see if parts are sold to fix my specific issue.
3.  Pulse modulation software still hasn't been proven to work in my rig yet, but using the "always on" config settings I proved communication with Mala using the Advanced Wiring 2 schematic in Weeisupts PDF.  We're discussing things over PM, but until the rig is fixed I'm back at square 1.

There it is folks.  Avoid the pizza pan :)

-csa
« Last Edit: April 18, 2008, 11:33:44 am by csa3d »

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: LCD Rotations issues...
« Reply #137 on: April 18, 2008, 01:09:30 pm »
There it is folks.  Avoid the pizza pan :)
Too bad it didn't work out. It looked sturdy enough.

Personally I gave up the whole idea of having a rotating monitor.
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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: LCD Rotation issues..
« Reply #138 on: April 18, 2008, 02:27:25 pm »
WOW csa3d!!!  Unbelievably awesome job - nice and clean and GREAT documentation.  Too bad you ran into some trouble - I'm sure you will work it out.  I've been out of the loop with my project but I have all weekend starting tonight to push forward!  Hopefully I'll get somewhere....   :cheers:

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: LCD Rotation issues..
« Reply #139 on: September 16, 2008, 12:38:49 am »
Any updates?  I'm very interested in this as I'm trying to decide on a cab and may redo a similarly designed one (completely gutted with no CP though)

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Rotating LCD Mount Solved!
« Reply #140 on: January 21, 2009, 10:58:45 pm »
Rotating Monitor Mount v3 - SUCCESS!

More work on the cabinet has taken place.  For the third time, I've redesigned the rotating monitor rig.  After two failed attempts, I've given into ways all ready proven to work and just accepted it.  The only thing "new" here is possibly using skateboard bearings AS the wheels for the lazy susan.  Here's how this went down:



I all ready cut out and painted the bezel and under bezel for revision two, and had also purchased all my parts from Solarbotics.com.  I only blew up 1 logic chip, and decided it was cheap to just order a new HDrive and Motor.  Since my last update, I only spent about $20 in new parts.  After a while, you re-use whatever you have laying around etc.  Who would have known I would reach this point in this hobby  :dunno  Also note that now that everything is working, a fresh sanding and coat of top paint could be used on my bezels after being installed and removed from the cab a bazillion times.



First, I decided to build a "box" this time around to house the entire lazy susan unit.  My previous rig was a single cross brace mounted to the cab, which supported the monitor and under bezel.  The upper bezel (square) was supported by brackets mounted to the sides of the cabinet and "floated" above the cross brace and monitor.  This had a design flaw, in which a) the upper bezel was NOT adjustable which led to b) rubbing of paint from the under bezel hitting the upper bezel due to play in the center axis.  This time around, I designed to go with the "lazy susan on wheels" idea and use adjustable pegs from dowels and clamps topped with Velcro to allow the upper bezel to flip open like a lid, while still being able to be adjustable if I needed to once mounted.  Flexibility was a must given the fact that this is revision 3.  This whole unit needed to be able to be pulled out and reinstalled many times, and with ease, if I needed to make adjustments to any one part of the unit until the design is truely bug free.

Secondly, this redesign permits the monitor cord connecting to the video card and the power cord to hang from the CENTER of the lazy susan, therefore more evenly distributing weight.  The last setup failed due to improper balance around the center pivot.  It was a goal of this build to eliminate that issue.

The above image is a result of the box, hinged upper bezel, and some wiring bits we'll get to shortly.



At the bottom of our base box, we need two wheels which will run along the side of the lazy susan circumference, giving bottom support to the platter on wheels.  You can see these at the bottom of the image above.  Also remember that my Midway Cab sports a 15 degree incline, so the lazy susan will not be held completely vertical.

I crafted two support wheels to allow the bottom of the platter to ride along the circumference seen here.  I wanted to make sure the wheels I used had a LITTLE friction as possible due to an over abundance of friction in the 2nd installment of the rig.  I therefore went with Swiss crafted Bones Skateboard Bearings, mounted to an "adjustable" 1 1/2" L-Bracket and a 1" L-Bracket.  The insides of the skate bearings are 8mm, so I found some metric metal inserts from the Home Depot parts drawers which fit perfectly into the center of the bearings, making the whole through the center much smaller while preventing the bearing from rocking around due to the snug fit.  Having the smaller center hole also allowed me to use much smaller metric nuts/washers, which worked out where I didn't need to drill out the holes of the L-Brackets larger.  I knew that if I had to drill out the holes, I was again allowing for imperfection due to possible spacing mismatches.  The inserts meant that this wouldn't be an issue at all.  I also purchased some rubber washers which were smaller then the red section of the bearing, so that they didn't come in contact with the moving parts of the bearings, yet kept the nut from touching either.

If you look at the gold 1 1/2" L-Brackets, you'll also notice that I took a dremmel disk to the one side of each of them.  Where there was one two screw holes, I fashioned out a slot.  This slot allowed me to make a slide bracket with the silver bracket, meaning I could adjust the final height of the platter supports later if need be.  This dimension was unlikely to change, but was one of those things I kind of made up as I went along.  If you can fine pre-made slots, then get some.  These have been elusive to me for some time.  As a side note, when dremmeling your L-Bracket, do where saftety goggles and DO screw it down before taking 10000 rpm's to it.  If not, it will fly out and you'll feel lucky it didn't hit you in the eyes or fly through the center of your monitor which you have laying off to the side of the work area.  Just saying...

Now that the lazy susan base has supports, we move onto the actual lazy susan itself, pictured here:



For the wheels for the disk bottom, I used 1" L-Brackets, and the same metal insert trick to bring the 8mm bearing hole down in side to the point where a  small nut and bolt could be used to attach the bearing without drilling any new holes, which would more then likely mess up "factory alignments".  My original plan with these wheels, was to go to the electrical department and pick up some 3/4" rubber grommets... ones used to keep water out of electrical boxes.  Why?  Because they slipped right over the bearing acting as a rubber tire!  How bad ass!  Unfortunately, that idea caused the bearing to spin ineffectively, and I lost a lot of movement.  In the end, I decided to let the lazy susan spin direction on the bearings themselves.



To prevent over rotations past 0 or 90, I fashioned stoppers out of small L-Brackets and felt chair sliders.  One gets screwed onto the bottom of the lazy susan, the other to the base upon which the lazy susan rests.  These stoppers will ultimately trigger my limit switches, which you'll see later.



This is the result of the under bezel being Velcroed to the top of the monitor.  The monitor is sitting on the 4 wheels we talked about above.



This is what it looks like sitting in the base, resting against the two lower support wheels we talked about above.



Wide shot to show the monitor in the base.  If you look close, you can see scratches on the inner bezel from the first two implementations of rotation.  When the unit is put in the cab behind the smoked glass, you cannot even see it.  If my OCD kicks in hard enough, I'll likely hit it with a light sanding and final topcoat once I'm done taking it in and out constantly.



I knew I would be removing the monitor mount several times until I go everything right, and wanted a way to easily gain access to whatever I needed.  I had a piano hinge laying around from an idea that I would be using it on my back access door.  I cut it to size of the monitor box and mounted it to the 1/2" MDF lid using some spare plastic spacers.  The reason for the spacers was because my screws were too long to the point where they would pierce the all ready painted lid if I was not careful.  I didn't feel like counter sinking them from the top, bondo the holes, and repainting so I went this route.  I learned that I therefore had to also knotch the base wall to allow the risers to fold under.  Again, my dremmel tool came in handy!



Here's what it looks like with the lid flipped down, monitor removed.



Driving the rotating monitor is a Solarbotics.com gearmotor 2 (with faster engine) powered by a hybrid Secret Motor Driver circuit DaOldMan has been helping me design.  Once we're solve a few minor issues, I'll post that here as well.  The motor was mounted at the TOP of the rig this time, because the weight of the monitor pushing down in my last implementation caused too much stress on the tiny RC motor.  I also dremmeled out the two holes in a 1 1/2" bracket again to create an adjustable slot, so I could slide the motor up or down slightly, adding or removing friction to the lazy susan as needed.  Remember, the key here is being able to adjust things!



In the end, the gearmotor's wheel touches the lazy susan's edge, and the friction from the contact and the fact that the lazy susan is swiveling on 6 bearings make this unit turn like melting hot butter!  I had thought the size of my monitor coupled with the extra weight from the birch disk would be worse then implementation #2, but I was far wrong.  This way almost turned too easily!  I found that I had to REALLY back down my gearmotor using Pulse Modulation.  In hind sight, I probably DIDN'T need the extra powerful motor.



Here is a custom circuit DaOldMan and I have been working on.  It's the standard red Secret Motor Driver H-Bridge, mounted to a breadboard.  The breadboard is wired up to the the power, limit switches, and printer port.  The switches are wired to look for signals going low on Pins 12 or 13 to stop rotation, while pins 2 and 3 control rotational direction.  Pin 4 controls Pulsing, and pin 25 grounds our circuit.  This setup completely separates the input pins from the output pins.  More on this circuit in a few days.



Here you can see I used a connector to splice a junction between the circuit and the switches.  This allowed me to reorder inputs, reversing rotation psychically without having to resolder.  It also means I can switch out my limit switches if I have to down the road.



For limit switches, I used some coin door switches I ordered from Divemaster some time back.  They actually never fit my Midway door, but came in perfect here.  They have a wire that sticks out, which you can bend and adjust the point of contact.  Based on how I decided to place my horizontal and vertical stoppers, you'll have to mount one of the swiches upside down.  To do so, you'll need spacers to allow room under the switch for the swing arm to move properly.  In this picture, you can see the switch, the limit arm unthrown, and the horizontal stopper.



This is that same horizontal switch, with the lazy susan mounted.  In this shot, the monitor is rotating towards the horizontal limit, but has not yet reached.  The two stoppers will eventually swing to make contact.



And when they do, the limit switch is triggered, shutting off horizontal rotation.



This is repeated for the vertical limit switch.  The only difference here is that this switch is mounted upright.



Here comes the rotating monitor!  Switches not yet thrown..



Switches are thrown in this image for the vertical limit.


« Last Edit: May 31, 2010, 10:32:28 am by csa3d »

Blanka

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: LCD Rotation issues..
« Reply #141 on: January 22, 2009, 12:25:15 am »
That's why I hope one day there will be 1600x1600 square OLED panels with 1:10000 true contrast and 180/180 viewing angles.

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Rotating LCD Mount Solved!
« Reply #142 on: January 22, 2009, 09:22:11 am »
Holy. Crap.  EXCELLENT JOB!!!  Whenever I get back around to my rotating monitor project I will be using this as a guide. 

So am I right in thinking there is no center spindle?  You are just using the skate bearings on the edges to support and guide the rotation?  Is the weight of the monitor an issue at all?  What a great idea.

Have you interfaced this setup with MAME/MaLa yet?

Any chance you could sketch up a wiring guide for the switches, motor and parallel port?  Freehand on a napkin would be fine as long as it is labeled!

 :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: LCD Rotation issues..
« Reply #143 on: January 22, 2009, 10:06:41 am »
That's why I hope one day there will be 1600x1600 square OLED panels with 1:10000 true contrast and 180/180 viewing angles.

Yeah, I paid a pretty penny for my Viewsonic monitor.  It has a pretty high contrast rate and really good viewing angles.  Angles haven't been an issue for me, and I wonder if I could have gotten away with a cheaper monitor when it was all said and done.  It's a great monitor, 4:3 aspect, and as large as I could squeeze in the cab.  I'll ride the LCD train all day.  They are fantastic to work due to their size.. plus I don't fear getting killed due to having to drain them first!

-csa

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Rotating LCD Mount Solved!
« Reply #144 on: January 22, 2009, 10:19:34 am »
Holy. Crap.  EXCELLENT JOB!!!  Whenever I get back around to my rotating monitor project I will be using this as a guide. 

Thanks man!  I give credit to a bunch of rotators on the board for ideas.  I spent endless hours looking for those stupid tiny Zebra wheels used by Psychotech, which led to the skate bearing wheel idea.  Weisshaupts idea on the secret motor driver h-bridge make life easy for non-techies... but after my latest venture with DaOldMan, I might try crafting my own H-Drive next time if it were cost effective.

So am I right in thinking there is no center spindle?  You are just using the skate bearings on the edges to support and guide the rotation?  Is the weight of the monitor an issue at all?  What a great idea.

There are two sets of wheels, 6 wheels in total.  First you have 4 wheels mounted to the BOTTOM of the lazy susan at Cardinal Directions, turned so the wheels are parallel to the circumference of the platter.  When flipped upright, those four wheels allow you top spin the platter easily in a circle when applying weight.  The bad news is that those four wheels also allow you to slide the lazy susan up/down/left/right.  To prevent that, you need another set of wheels.  Look at this image:



Now draw a mental triangle from the bottom two red/gold wheels to the black motor wheel at the top.  The platter is placed upside down in the middle of that triangle, allowing the four wheels in cardinal directions to support the monitor and allow the spinning.  The two bottom wheels and the motor wheel prevent the disk from scooting left/right/up/down and sandwhich everything in place.  Make sense?


Have you interfaced this setup with MAME/MaLa yet?

Yes, and DaOldMan has a new MRotate2.exe which is under development which works perfectly with Mame.  We are working out some bugs yet, and hopefully Loadman is addressing some bugs in Mala with other non-mame emulator events.  More news on this shortly.

Any chance you could sketch up a wiring guide for the switches, motor and parallel port?  Freehand on a napkin would be fine as long as it is labeled!

Indeed.  That drawing is mostly done.  There's one more electrical issue I need to work out with the parallel port activating randomly upon windows bootup, and once I solve that, I'll report back with full drawings.

Make sure you bomb the Mala Forum and ask loadman to look at some of those rotation issues.   :angel:

-csa
« Last Edit: January 22, 2009, 10:36:36 am by csa3d »

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Rotating LCD Mount Solved!
« Reply #145 on: January 22, 2009, 04:47:46 pm »
Excellent work Chris!
And a very good writeup..

You know I have a touchscreen LCD monitor that I bought for my last juke project that came in with a bad touch node, the company sent me another one and let me keep that one...
Hmmmm.... wonder how it would look turned vertical?
Its only a 15" but might work great in a bar top or mini cab..

Now see what you done went and done? Got me started on another adventure!
LOL

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Rotating LCD Mount Solved!
« Reply #146 on: January 22, 2009, 05:29:48 pm »
Now see what you done went and done? Got me started on another adventure!

As do you!  I'm going to have to build that LED box it seems like to get an idea what the shizzle is happening when windows boots up.  I've wired 2 resistors into the circuit two times incorrectly now.  ON a good note, I'm getting better with my soldering skills.   :P   What a pain.

-csa

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Rotating LCD Mount Solved!
« Reply #147 on: January 22, 2009, 07:59:34 pm »
 ;D
Just keep telling yourself: "If it were easy, they'd have carnival monkeys doing it."


Edit: Just kiddin man..
« Last Edit: January 24, 2009, 06:32:53 am by DaOld Man »

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Rotating LCD Mount Solved!
« Reply #148 on: January 23, 2009, 10:47:53 pm »

csa3d

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Seeking electrical help...
« Reply #149 on: January 25, 2009, 06:52:11 pm »
Rotating Monitor Circuit

I have finalized the wiring of my rotating monitor circuit largely due to the patience of DaOldMan and with some help from others on the board.  I'm going to try to summarize how to go about doing this yourself for those interested.  This post will probably take a bit of time to finish off and likely require me to go back and snap a few additional pictures.  Feel free to comment in the meantime.


Highlights
  - All parts can be ordered online and delivered to your doorstep or picked up locally at RadioShack
  - Command Line driven software rotation allows any Front End to reorient your monitor.
  - Circuit can be completely powered by a 5v connection to a PC power supply.


Warnings
  - User must be able to operate a soldering iron with a moderate skill level.  Some of these parts are small, and it's easy to accidentally solder small things together due to sloppy soldering.
  - When soldering and powering things to your computer, you assume all risk involved.  It is not my fault if you blow up your rig.  These instructions have been implemented at least three times and been proven to work if done properly.


Credits
  - DaOldMan:  Created the wiring behind the logic board and the software to drive the monitor rotation!  (BIG Thanks goes out!)
  - Weisshaupt:  Introduced BYOAC to the treasure that is the Secret Motor Driver "H-Bridge" kit and friction drive pieces necessary to accomplish powered rotation.
  - Psychotech:  Your simple manual rotation method using switches
  - Cornchip, Koz, Edge:  Other rotators who've inspired me to this achieve this point today.

Shopping List

  PCB Parts:
  1x    240 hole or smaller Perf Board (RadioShack)
  3x    2.2k-Ohm Resistors  (Radioshack catalog # 271-1325)
  3x    2N3906 PNP Transistors  (Radioshack catalog # 276-1604)

  Wires and etc.
  1x    DB25 to RJ45 converter
  1x    CAT 5 (ethernet) cable.
  1x    roll of 18-22 gauge wire (RadioShack)
  1x    12 block small terminal strip (RadioShack)
  2x    limit switches
  1x    box of wire crimps (blue and red things that attach wires to switches)
  1x    box of various plastic C-Clamp style wire tie downs + 1/2" screws (or something to mount loose wires to your wooden rig)

  Motor Parts
  1x    GM3 motor (easier to mount than the GM2)
  1x    Regular Motor 2 upgrade
  1x    The mounting Bracket
  1x    A wheel
  1x    A Extra Grip Tread (it is a friction drive after all- the more tire that meets the road)

  Electronics:  H-Bridge
  1x    A Chip socket (optional)
  1x    The secret Motor Driver Kit

   ( incomplete, to be filled in shortly )

Tools

  - Soldering Iron
  - Solder
  - Wire cutters
  - Needle Nose Plyers
  - Desoldering Braid (yes.. you'll use this more then you'd like!)
  - Crimping Tools
  - Utility Knife
  - Multimeter cable of measuring volts and testing for connectivity

Step 1 - Determine what your Parallel port does during Bios Load/Windows Bootup

Before you attempt to hook up anything to your parallel port, it's important to realize that you are powerless over the voltages supplied from the printer port during Bios load and Windows Bootup.  During these times, pins can and most likely WILL fluxuate from either low to high or high to low.  Low is to be considered in a state of "off", or reading below 1.5 volts, which High is considered to be "on", and will read anywhere between 4.5 and 5 volts.  Reading reveals this is probably due to Plug N Play trying to figure out what is attached on the parallel port.  Any time a single pin swaps from high to low or vice versa, you risk a signal being sent to your motor which will turn it on or off.  While this is the desired behavior when SOFTWARE controls the circuit, it is highly undesired that your motor randomly decides to rotate while your cabinet powers up.

Our goal is to prevent the monitor from moving before we are ready.  So your first step is to determine the bootup voltage changes.  This is pretty easy if you have a multimeter, and 20 minutes or so of spare time lying around.  Here is an example of the chart I ended up with:



How did I get to these numbers?
 
  1.  Grabbing a parallel port cable and plugging it into the computer with the cpu power turned off.
  2.  Create a blank chart with 24 numbers across the top, starting at 1, ending at 24.  These represent the results of all 24 pins.
  3.  Create a Start row on your blank chart.  This row represents the initial reading before the computer decided to change the value during any point of bootup.
  4.  Create an End row on your blank chart.  This row represents any change in voltage during any point the bootup process.
  5.  Cut two 6" lengths of small wire, the same kind you plan to use to wire your switches anyways.  This will work better if your inner wire is stiffer rather then tiny strands.
  6.  Strip both ends of both 6" lengths of wire.
  7.  Take the first stripped wire, wrap one stripped end around the negative probe tip of your multimeter's ground (black) wire.
  8.  Take the second stripped wire, wrap one stripped end around the positive probe tip of your multimeter's positive (red) wire.

  We do steps 7 and 8 because the probe tips of my multimeter were too fat to shove into the female end of the printer cable.

  9.  Take the exposed end of the wire attached to the ground probe of your multimeter, and shove it into pin 25 (ground) of your printer cable's female end (assuming the cable is all ready attached to your computer in step 1, there is only 1 end left to use, so this shouldn't be confusing.)  Make sure this wire is not loose and fits snugly down into the hole.  Think of this wire as a single pin going into the cable, temporarily attached to the printer cable.

  10.  Turn on your Multimeter and set it to read volts.  (see your multimeter's instructions on how to do this, mine had a yellow "v" on the settings dial)
  11.  Take the exposed end of the second wire attached to the positive probe of your multimeter, and shove it into pin 1 of your printer cable's female end (same end as step 9).  You will be moving this wire 24 times during our testing.
 
  You are now ready to begin charting!

  A.)  You should be able to lay the multimeter down, have it turned on, and both probe ends are connected to two different pins via 6" wire extensions.
  B.)  With the red probe extension shoved in pin 1, and the black extension shoved in pin 25, turn on your computer.
  C.)  Take note of the voltage number reading on your multimeter.  This number goes in your start row under column 1
  D.)  WATCH the meter readings as windows goes through the Bios startup, through the XP Progress bar screen, and up until you see the start bar on your desktop.
  E.)  Note any changes in voltage readings in the End row, column 1

  Congrats!  You've charted 1 of the 24 pins! 

  F.)  Shut down the computer.
  G.)  Now take the positive (red) probe extension, remove it from pin 1 and shove it into pin 2 hole.
  H.)  Keep the negative (black) probe extension shoved in pin 25
  I.)  Turn on your computer, noting start and end voltages just as we did above.
  J.)  When windows displays the start bar, go back to step F and repeat steps F-J advancing the red probe extension to the next pin in counting order until you've charted all 24 pins.

Once you have this chart created, you have a giant piece of the puzzle necessary to create the printer port logic switching circuit.



Step 2 - Secret Motor Driver "H-Bridge"

When a DC motor is supplied with power, it's default behavior is to run in only one direction.  If you want it to spin the other direction, you must reverse the polarity supplied to the motor.  This can be done manually with switches, but in this example we will build an H-Bridge to automate the reversal of our motor direction once it completes a 90 degree rotation.

There are many ways to go about building one of these.  In my example I used a tiny robotics kit from Solarbotics.com.



Since it's a kit, it comes as a package of loose parts.  It's up to you to solder everything together.  The awesome thing about the kit to me is that it's a kit, you don't have to worry if you picked up the right parts or not.  If you can put together an Ikea desk and have used a soldering iron before, then you're in business.  If you are up in the air about your soldering skills, then I'd buy the optional chip socket while you're shopping.  There are many small solder points needed to be made under the PCB, so you might want to practice a bit before taking on this kit.  Also note, that the rainbow ribbon supplied with the motor kit is very fragile after soldered on.  I recommend using CAT 5 (Ethernet cord) strands instead, as they are much more durable.

Follow the instructions accompanied in the kit to create the above completed circuit.  Give yourself a good 6" of extra wire coming out of main connections where it says to use the rainbow ribbon, and a good 2' of wire coming out of M1 and M2.



Step 3 - Limit switch logic board

Now that you've built your H-Drive, we need a way to know if your monitor is currently rotated horizontal or rotated vertically.  To achieve this takes many pieces including rotation logic software, limit switches, an H-Drive, and the limit switch logic board we are about to build which connects all these components together.



We are going to create the yellow PCB pictured above and then piggy-back our H-Drive from Step 2 on top.  You could decide not to couple the H-Drive and the Logic Board all in one unit, but by doing so you have less to mount and it just looks nicer.  Since no one is likely going to ask you to rip out your rotating monitor rig, appearance probably doesn't matter that much.  But this is BYOAC and you know you will have to post images of your work, so make it count.

The circuit necessary to create this logic is going to feel overwhelming when you first look at it.  It's really not that bad to solder together if you take it slow and are organized about how you go about it.  Here is an overview of the entire circuit as I currently have it implemented:

 
 click image to enlarge.

To make this easier to remove from the monitor housing, and to quickly swap around ClockWise and Counter Clockwise logic pins (without the use of software) I spit the above circuit up into three sections, separated by screw top terminal blocks:
  A.) Incoming Limit Switches
  B.) The logic board and H-Drive circuit
  C.) Motor Leads

( ... todo:  Create image to demonstrate )

With all the things that can go wrong with the circuit, you'll thank yourself later for compartmentalizing your wiring this way.



Step 4 - Interfacing logic board with limit switches

   ( to be filled in shortly )



Step 5 - Interfacing logic board with Motor

   ( to be filled in shortly )



Step 6 - Interfacing logic board with Parallel Port

   ( to be filled in shortly )



Step 7 - Powering the rotation circuit

   ( to be filled in shortly )



Step 8 - Rotation Software

   ( to be filled in shortly )



Step 9 - Integrating with MaLa Frontend

   ( to be filled in shortly )

-csa
« Last Edit: May 29, 2009, 11:36:33 pm by csa3d »

csa3d

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Documenting Monitor Rotation Circuit
« Reply #150 on: January 25, 2009, 10:13:41 pm »
While I finish documenting the rotation circuit, I thought everyone might like a peek at a video of this thing in action.  I'll get a better one done up a bit later.  Enjoy.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=InOfVUMBFnc[/youtube]

-csa

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Documenting Monitor Rotation Circuit
« Reply #151 on: January 26, 2009, 05:04:27 am »
That's very slick. Indeed nice how you have integrated the whole thing into one button press.
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csa3d

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Documenting Monitor Rotation Circuit
« Reply #152 on: January 26, 2009, 07:37:50 am »
That's very slick. Indeed nice how you have integrated the whole thing into one button press.

Well, actually two button presses of the same "select game" button.. at least until loadman squashes that Mala bug :)

-csa

javeryh

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Documenting Monitor Rotation Circuit
« Reply #153 on: January 26, 2009, 12:23:22 pm »
Wow - that is a perfect set up.  Very very nice work!   :cheers:

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Documenting Monitor Rotation Circuit
« Reply #154 on: January 27, 2009, 03:38:40 am »
This is very interesting..and a great reason to be on the forum,  I'll look carefully through the whole thread..I've just recently posted my design for my rotating setup as well, there are some great ideas here.

cheers

Ond

javeryh

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Documenting Monitor Rotation Circuit
« Reply #155 on: May 04, 2009, 12:04:28 pm »
What happened to the pics in this thread???  I can see some but definitely not all.  They are missing in the Rotating Monitor Mount v3 post and the Rotating Monitor Circuit post!!

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Documenting Monitor Rotation Circuit
« Reply #156 on: May 04, 2009, 09:59:15 pm »
yeah, I have no idea what happened to them either!  After discovering this for myself, I kinda lost a lot of steam.  I think it probably happened during the image thread splitup, but haven't really searched them down.  I have been through 2 harddrive crashes since, so I have no idea which one of my spare harddrives have those actual images mirrored onto yet.

I've not really made a lot of progress on the cab short of futzing the software side of configuring things.

Let me know if you're able to locate them and I'll re-attach them.
-csa

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Documenting Monitor Rotation Circuit
« Reply #157 on: June 16, 2009, 05:32:55 pm »
yeah, I have no idea what happened to them either!  After discovering this for myself, I kinda lost a lot of steam.  I think it probably happened during the image thread splitup, but haven't really searched them down.  I have been through 2 harddrive crashes since, so I have no idea which one of my spare harddrives have those actual images mirrored onto yet.

I've not really made a lot of progress on the cab short of futzing the software side of configuring things.

Let me know if you're able to locate them and I'll re-attach them.
-csa

They appear to have been nuked by saint during the image thread split up (January 14 - February 16 appear to be lost and you posted on January 21).  I'm just getting back into my rotating monitor project and I could really use some help with those pictures - any luck locating them?

Thanks.   :cheers:

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Documenting Monitor Rotation Circuit
« Reply #158 on: June 16, 2009, 10:49:56 pm »
They appear to have been nuked by saint during the image thread split up (January 14 - February 16 appear to be lost and you posted on January 21).  I'm just getting back into my rotating monitor project and I could really use some help with those pictures - any luck locating them?

Thanks.   :cheers:

I have located them, just haven't had time to re-upload them.  I'll try get them uploaded here soon.  I did re-upload the circuit stuff, just need to get those monitor constructions pics back up.

-csa

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Documenting Monitor Rotation Circuit
« Reply #159 on: June 16, 2009, 11:27:15 pm »
They appear to have been nuked by saint during the image thread split up (January 14 - February 16 appear to be lost and you posted on January 21).  I'm just getting back into my rotating monitor project and I could really use some help with those pictures - any luck locating them?

Thanks.   :cheers:

I have located them, just haven't had time to re-upload them.  I'll try get them uploaded here soon.  I did re-upload the circuit stuff, just need to get those monitor constructions pics back up.

-csa

Awesome!  I'll be diving into this over the weekend.  The final coats of poly are drying as I type this.  The t-molding should be here on Friday and then I can bring it into the house to install all the components...  :cheers:

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Documenting Monitor Rotation Circuit
« Reply #160 on: June 18, 2009, 09:02:50 am »
Awesome!  I'll be diving into this over the weekend.  The final coats of poly are drying as I type this.  The t-molding should be here on Friday and then I can bring it into the house to install all the components...  :cheers:

I wanted to make sure you had what you needed for weekend planning, check your yahoo account, you got mail.

-csa

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Documenting Monitor Rotation Circuit
« Reply #161 on: June 18, 2009, 10:39:12 am »
Awesome!  I'll be diving into this over the weekend.  The final coats of poly are drying as I type this.  The t-molding should be here on Friday and then I can bring it into the house to install all the components...  :cheers:

I wanted to make sure you had what you needed for weekend planning, check your yahoo account, you got mail.

-csa

 :notworthy:

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Where did all my attached images go?
« Reply #162 on: May 28, 2010, 09:01:07 pm »
This thread is great, thanks for linking me to it.  Your control panel amazes me, and I may actually stick to doing something like that rather than having it jut out around the cabinet. I'll definitely be rereading some of this during my work.

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Where did all my attached images go?
« Reply #163 on: May 31, 2010, 09:50:35 am »
Apparently using that 'Not a Projectt' thread to post embedded pictures tends to loose your images.  Posting them here for the last time.. I also updated the rotating monitor v3 page to include the attached images.  Hopefully they stick this time.
« Last Edit: May 31, 2010, 10:36:38 am by csa3d »

csa3d

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Where did all my attached images go?
« Reply #164 on: May 31, 2010, 09:51:36 am »
...

csa3d

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Where did all my attached images go?
« Reply #165 on: May 31, 2010, 09:52:22 am »
...

csa3d

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion: Where did all my attached images go?
« Reply #166 on: May 31, 2010, 09:52:49 am »
[ reserved for any other thread images lost ]

FlatEarth

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Re: Galaxian Mame Conversion
« Reply #167 on: January 22, 2011, 11:24:54 pm »
I still plan to use the above hinges and have measured them to fit in the above layout.  Below is a mockup of the art I'm planning to put on the top of the control panel.  It's 80% vectorized and to scale with spacing of my control components.  I'd love to get feedback before I finalize the vector work.

Csa3d,
Sorry to dig up such an old thread, but I am also working on a Galaxian. Do you think you could share the contol panel art you mocked up on page one of this thread?  Not exactly what i am doing, but it would sure help me along!
What graphic program did you use?