Locking down the lid of a control panel

[JonnyBoy]

The project I'm working on (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=43529.0) has a large laminated box and the lid (which will house the controls) is going to be held on the back by a large nickel plated piano hinge. Problem is, I'm worried that with all the jarring and movement associated with playing difficult arcade games that people will lift up.

I was wondering if you guys have any suggestions for a system to keep the lid down tight. I was thinking of a barrel lock mounted on top of the panel but I'm afraid somebody may hit their hand against it when using the trackball. I was also looking at "hooks and eyes" just an eyehook screwed into the underside with a hook looped in the eye and then putting a loop to put the hook through. Another one I thought of is magnets, but with computer components around...(inside the CP)

Also, what about those cupboard holders that are sometimes used. They have like, two rigid loops close together and on the opposite surface there is a thing that gets caught between the loops when the lid is closed. I'm not sure of what they are called but maybe you'll know what I'm saying with my half-arsed description.

If you guys have any ideas please post them. Thanks.

[Thenasty]

is there a way to get your hands in the box, if so used panel clamps. That how all arcade panels are held down.

[JonnyBoy]

Unfortunately, the only way in would be that lid.

I saw these from another thread, they were what I was describing.

http://tinyurl.com/7eodr

[Thenasty]

why not make the bottom open and use a barrel lock to lock it, so you can lock down the TOP with the rights panel clamps ?

[JonnyBoy]

The bottom is already glued and nailed together...

http://tinyurl.com/9zy8h

Maybe a few of those?

or even some of these?

http://tinyurl.com/ap576

I'm just worried about magnets around computers, that's why the first one seemed a little bit better of an idea...bit still too weak to hold up to rigorous gaming.

[Thenasty]

best and cheapest way would be to screw it from top. One on each end and one in middle.

[JonnyBoy]

Quick idea:

Using the barrel lock but mounting it on the side. Maybe getting a mending bracking and screwing it into the underside of the CP and then put a plate that extends past the mending bracket to create a trap of sorts. When the key of the barrel lock is turned the angled piece gets caught in the trap, making it impossible to move. Just a dumb idea that I think just may work. Here's an awful/quick drawing. I work at a hardware store so I can look around and see if some of this stuff even exists.

My friend came up with the idea of putting in these brass threaded anchors and just unscrewing it every time I want to access the inside. I may look into that but I'd like something a bit easier to open.

Thanks

[quarterback]

People use those cabinet latches (like you've linked) with success.  And others have found that using velcro works better than you think and holds their CP on just fine.

I tried the cabinet latches and then moved to magnetic cabinet catches and they work for my CP 'lid'.

I'm not sure I completely understand how your CP is going to attach, but if there's 'overlap', you could just use a simple dowel and hole method.  It would certainly be tight and you'd just have to pull out the dowel if you wanted to remove the CP.

[Thenasty]

Here is an idea/invention:
how about a REMOTE CONTROLLED panel clamps, so no need to get your hands in there to manually latch it in place.....

[teef two]

Here is an idea/invention:
how about a REMOTE CONTROLLED panel clamps, so no need to get your hands in there to manually latch it in place.....

Oh no, now you've done it. You know what people are like on here


BTW, I'd go with velcro, not going to shift unless you really pull up.

[CheffoJeffo]

I used velcro on my cocktail CP boxes, but they don't experience much violence.

The CP on my showcase uses a "push in" lock (basically pushes a 3/8" pin through a bracket on the lid to lock it down). The lock looks like a regular barrel lock once pushed in.

Cheers.

EDIT: Pictures added

[Lilwolf]

CheffoJeffo, where did you get the pushbutton?  I like it a LOT!

I did almost the same for my control panels.  But I used wood and have two pegs that I put in. 

Its not too bad, but I would love to have something that didn't require finding the pegs. 

[CheffoJeffo]

CheffoJeffo, where did you get the pushbutton?  I like it a LOT!

Came with the cabinet (bought at auction) ... hadn't seen them before. I would expect that *somebody* must stock these as they really are the only option I can think of for securing a showcase on location.

Cheers.

[JonnyBoy]

I decided to go with a few of those cabinet latches. I can get them discounted at work (we sell Stanely products) and I'll put one on each side. It'll add a nice professional touch. I'll give you updates on how they work out.

[Extreme8]

I think I'm going to ditch the hook and loop fasteners and go with something like this.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1611

Doesn't get much stealthier (is that even a word?) than that.

[Thenasty]

I lke the way they price it. If you buy the complete w/key its $5.99 and for just the key is $6.49 or I'm I missing something here. I hope its not one of those, you buy this LOCK but its useless until you buy the KEY for it too

Anyway, give us feedback when you get it.

[JonnyBoy]

I just came back from work and found those stanely roller catches for 78 cents, that's with employee discount. Those things clamp down pretty hard and are quite a pain to get unclamped. They'll do the trick.

[Flinkly]

you can get those magnetic keys at the fred meyers in my town, i actually have some in a drawer in my kitchen.  was going to use it on my under-sink cabinet doors so that animals would stay out of the chemicals, but now i just set a stool in front of the door.  shipping seems like it wouldn't be worth it, go to a local store.

[RickDIII]

you can get those magnetic keys at the fred meyers in my town, i actually have some in a drawer in my kitchen.