Inexpensive mini-spinner and construction question

[HeadRusch]

Question1: Does anyone make an inexpensive spinner that doesn't take up oodles of space, something you might use on a Mini-Mame control Panel?  Performance obviously wouldn't be stellar but we're talking about sacrificing size for basic functionality

Question2: For that matter, what about a basic inexpensive trakball, something small??

Question3:  I built my last MAME control panel out of 3/4" MDF.  And let me tell you, that thing could support an automobile its so strong.  Its also, IMHO, overkill.

I'd like to build a mini-mame cab out of something lighter..no, no cardboard  
I was hoping to use 1/2" MDF which I have here.  My only concern at this point would be how to put the thing together using fasteners that wont stick through the ends?

I assumed if I used 1/2" stock I could put the thing together with L brackets and then...what...1/2" woodscrews??  Obviously I dont want the screws poking out, my only
other option would be to use bolts and have the bolt-heads on the outside and the nuts on the inside.

Whats the smart way to do this here?  The cab I'm talking about building would be small, maybe no taller than 3' high, for adults or kids to play.  (Then again, I might get lazy and build myself a coctail instead).  What do you think?

[Tiger-Heli]

Question1: Does anyone make an inexpensive spinner that doesn't take up oodles of space, something you might use on a Mini-Mame control Panel?  Performance obviously wouldn't be stellar but we're talking about sacrificing size for basic functionality

Nasty-Spinner http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,17522.0.html

Question2: For that matter, what about a basic inexpensive trakball, something small??

Kensington PC trackball mounted to panel

Question3:  I built my last MAME control panel out of 3/4" MDF.  And let me tell you, that thing could support an automobile its so strong.  Its also, IMHO, overkill.

Whats the smart way to do this here?  The cab I'm talking about building would be small, maybe no taller than 3' high, for adults or kids to play.  (Then again, I might get lazy and build myself a coctail instead).  What do you think?

1x1 supports and T-nuts under the side laminate?

[MrTroy]

Thenasty still hasn't gotten back to me on mine. If only there were a way to mass produce the components needed to make the spinners. To avoid having to destroy old Hard Drives.

[KenToad]

Tiger-Heli's advice is good IMO.  Also, do a search for Twisty-Grip's Spinner plans.  At least I think that's the name I remember.  I built a spinner for about $10 using his plans.  There is a PDF document that has his instructions and also printable encoder wheels at various resolutions (meaning notches).  Basically, you print out the page of encoder wheels on a transparency and mount that printed out wheel between a bunch of washers on a 1/4 inch bolt threaded through, preferably, two small bearings you can probably pick up at an auto parts store.  I wrapped duct tape around the bolt to make it fit snugly inside the bearings and used a caster wheel as the spinner knob.  All you need then is to find a suitable mouse to hack.  I think using a ball mouse would be easiest.  Here is a pic of my homemade spinner mounted on my control panel.  The other bearing is recessed into the top of the control panel.  I meant to replace the rubber band holding the mouse guts in place, but haven't gotten around to it.  The thing has never given me trouble.  I use it for all spinner games and it's the most wonderful thing to impress guests especially with games like puzz loop.

[MinerAl]

If you're going to use 1/2 inch ply, I'd suggest 1x1 glued corner supports and 1 1/4 inch counter sunk (sinked?) screws from the outside.  You'll have to wood putty the heads of the screws, but it'll be strong.

As for skinny spinners,  I think the tornado spinner is the smallest horizontal real estate spinner commercially available.  You can make a spinner easily enough that if that's not sufficiently small, just design a smaller one!

For trackballs, you will lose every kind of functionality going much smaller than 1".  That said, look into kacking one of the logitech or microsoft "red ball" optical pc trackballs.

[Thenasty]

Thenasty still hasn't gotten back to me on mine. If only there were a way to mass produce the components needed to make the spinners. To avoid having to destroy old Hard Drives.

Hard to keep an eye out the a Western Digital hard drives. I keep going to places/dumpters etc...to look and none I see or is not the right one.

[Kremmit]

Tiger-Heli's advice is good IMO.  Also, do a search for Twisty-Grip's Spinner plans.  At least I think that's the name I remember.  I built a spinner for about $10 using his plans.  There is a PDF document that has his instructions and also printable encoder wheels at various resolutions (meaning notches). 

I wonder if you meant Nathan Strum's "Cheep Spinner"?
http://www.arcadecontrols.com/arcade_spinners.shtml#strum

[Tiger-Heli]

Tiger-Heli's advice is good IMO.  Also, do a search for Twisty-Grip's Spinner plans.  At least I think that's the name I remember.  I built a spinner for about $10 using his plans.  There is a PDF document that has his instructions and also printable encoder wheels at various resolutions (meaning notches). 

I wonder if you meant Nathan Strum's "Cheep Spinner"?
http://www.arcadecontrols.com/arcade_spinners.shtml#strum

No, he meant the twisty-grip design, but it's available further down the page on the link Kremmit provided.  (I think the printable encoder wheels were from the Cheep Spinner, though).

[nostrebor]

If designed correctly, and if your woodworking skills and tools are up to the task, you can make a cabinet out of 1/2" MDF with no fasteners through the sides. My cabinet is 4' tall, and made from 5/8" MDF with dados and wood glue construction. I've built 2 this way, and would expect either to hold up to abuse considerably better than the "wood strips and screws" method.

Check out my "Shorty" Pac-Man project thread for details/pics.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,25002.0.html

[ErikRuud]

I used the Cheep Spinner instructions as the basis for my spinner.  I made some changes along the way, using sheet styrene for the spinner and I used differnt bearings that allowed me to mount them directly into my CP without the extra steel plates or any visible screws.

[KenToad]

Tiger-Heli's advice is good IMO.  Also, do a search for Twisty-Grip's Spinner plans.  At least I think that's the name I remember.  I built a spinner for about $10 using his plans.  There is a PDF document that has his instructions and also printable encoder wheels at various resolutions (meaning notches). 

I wonder if you meant Nathan Strum's "Cheep Spinner"?
http://www.arcadecontrols.com/arcade_spinners.shtml#strum

No, he meant the twisty-grip design, but it's available further down the page on the link Kremmit provided.  (I think the printable encoder wheels were from the Cheep Spinner, though).

Yes, thank you guys.  I meant really both of those things.  I just forgot that I had used info. from The Nasty, Twisty and Cheep.  Thanks, BTW, Thenasty for having all that cool info in your thread.  I would thank the other two, but I don't know if they ever are on these boards anymore.

Cheers,
KenToad

[Dire Radiant]

On the other point in the original post I'm starting to agree. Everyone builds 3/4" CPs because that seems to be the "standard" Why? I'd quite happily stand on a 24" piece of 1/2" MDF. IMHO, most original arcade cabinets are massively overengineered. When was the last time you saw a cab seriously damaged by anything other than water? My System 1 cab is certainly overbuilt for home use. I can understand it in something that's going to see a lot of abuse in an arcade (see post elsewhere about Ninja Gaiden being dropkicked by truckers) In your home it's going to be much better cared for. Using 1/2" MDF will reduce the weight of the empty cab by a third too which will make it a lot more convenient to move around. If  can't find anyone to make me a steel CP I'm thinking of going the 1/2" route for a CP.