On a scale of 1-10, how hard is it to mount trackball flush on CP?

[daveg2000]

Okay.. I have little to no woodworking skills...
I can drill holes for buttons and joysticks and things like that,
but how hard is it to skip the mounting plate on the
trackball and mount it flush on the control panel
(which would be ideal to avoid the ridge that sticks up on the
plate?)

Or would you just reccomend putting in the plate
and being done with it?

Dave

[cholin]

Most people put a small indent so their plate looks flush, but is still there.  It would take a ton of work to get it mounted flush without a plate because you would have to route out a circular patter in the bottom of your CP.  Its probably easier just to route a small square on top

[mahuti]

I don't think it can be done without a mounting plate. There wouldn't be enough wood to provide the strength required to hold it on. You can flush mount the mounting plat, you just need to router out a space for it. See link to my cab.

[Sinner]

I was asking a similar question before...check out this thread...

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,34785.0.html

Let me know if you find any good information...I've been afraid to attempt anything yet...

[mahuti]

OH, and on a scale... for what you ask? 11. To router a space for it...

[markrvp]

I highly recommend using a trackball plate.

[markrvp]

This next pic shows the trackball mounted with the artwork and 1/8" Lexan top.

[Captain_Dingo]

I plan to use a plate when I make a real CP, but for a temp mockup to mess around with, I did it this way (I'm going to regret not posting a picture...)

Disclaimer: I did this with one of Happ's high lip trackballs in 3/4" plywood.  I have no clue how well this technique would work on other setups.

1.  Route out all the way through the plywood the profile of the trackball housing that doesn't include the T-shaped arms where the encoders sit.

2.  Route out partway through the ply the shape of the T-shaped arms (and a bit for the encoder overhang).  The object is to get the top of the housing to sit flush with the top of the ply, with the lip protruding above it.

3.  Make up a piece of plywood that will go under the housing.  Attach the housing to this with long bolts secured by some washers and nuts under the small plywood piece.

4.  Drill holes in both pieces of plywood to allow four bolts to connect the two pieces.

5.  Put T-nuts in the top of the panel in the four holes and bolt the whole assembly together by putting bolts up through the plywood on the bottom of the housing up into the T-nuts.  It's probably best to recess the T-nuts a bit.

6.  Put plexi over the whole thing so it's even with the lip.

7.  Crack the plexi.

8.  Swear a lot.

9.  Buy a mounting plate and do it right

Is that a thousand words yet?

I guess my point is that it is possible, but the mounting plate is going to be much cleaner (and can still be as flush as any other setup.

[Jabba]

Nice work markrvp. Nice clean and crisp look. I also like the graphics you have there ...

[daveg2000]

Okay.. after seeing all this.. my next question will be....

WHO CAN DO SOME OF THIS AWESOME ARTWORK FOR ME!?!?!?

 

You guys are like way cool

[shmokes]

If you have a router and a mounting plate I would rate the difficulty at about a 2.  It's SOOO easy.  You can be totally sloppy because you're going to cover it up with artwork or something.  You can just trace the mounting plate onto the surface and freehand it.  And you don't have to worry about compromising the structural integrity because you're just shaving off a 16th of an inch or so.

So easy.  And setting the depth of the bit is a cinch.  You don't even have to measure anything. 

[mahuti]

You can get some cool artwork at localarcade.com

[markrvp]

Nice work markrvp. Nice clean and crisp look. I also like the graphics you have there ...

Thank you very much!

WHO CAN DO SOME OF THIS AWESOME ARTWORK FOR ME!?!?!?

Like Mahuti said, Local Arcade

[daveg2000]

I already have lexan laid on my blank control panel...
Am I going to F it up if I router out a square through this,
or is there a way to get a clean cut so it doesnt look like poo?

And to those of you who laid artwork on top....
How the heck do you put that large of a 'sticker' (if you will)
on so strait, smooth and with out any bubbling?

[markrvp]

You definitely don't want to router a square in your Lexan.  TAKE IT OFF RIGHT NOW!  The mounting plate goes directly in the wood.  Then you only cut a hole the EXACT SAME SIZE as the hole in your mounting plate.  You do this using a "Laminate Trim Bit" in your router.  This bit has a guide wheel on bottom that travels against the mounting plate and cuts the Lexan flush with it (similar to a flush trim bit which has the guide roller on top).  If you have a 3/8" Laminate trim bit, you drill a 3/8" hole in the Lexan and then put it back on top of your panel.  Clamp it down tight.  Then stick the trim bit through the hole and use the mounting plate hole as a guide for a perfect circle cut.

My artwork went on the wood below the Lexan.  Either way, you spray 3M #77 spray adhesive on it and then lay it on top of the panel.  Use a roller (rolling pin like) to roll it flat.  Use a very sharp utility knife to trim the edges and the holes.

By the way, I will be building a new panel next week with a trackball.  If you can hold off that long, I will document the whole process with extensive pictures on the tools setup and how the router bits are set and used (if that would help).

[Timstuff]

Here's one way you could do it. (scroll down a bit)

http://www.willcoxonline.com/mame/controlpanel/controlpanel.htm

I think that I'd probably drill holes over where I want the screws to go to keep them from sticking out, and I think I'd also use thicker spacers so that it doesn't stick up as much as that guy has it. Although it was a good idea to make it stick up more than the typical installation, I think he may have gone a little too far. Longer spacers would fix that problem, as well as a slightly smaller hole for the ball. You'd probably have to expiriment with a piece of scrap fiberboard before you get it just right.

[markrvp]

Here's one way you could do it. (scroll down a bit)

http://www.willcoxonline.com/mame/controlpanel/controlpanel.htm

I think that I'd probably drill holes over where I want the screws to go to keep them from sticking out, and I think I'd also use thicker spacers so that it doesn't stick up as much as that guy has it. Although it was a good idea to make it stick up more than the typical installation, I think he may have gone a little too far. Longer spacers would fix that problem, as well as a slightly smaller hole for the ball. You'd probably have to expiriment with a piece of scrap fiberboard before you get it just right.

That's really cool.

[Rocky]

I don't think it can be done without a mounting plate. There wouldn't be enough wood to provide the strength required to hold it on.

I mounted my trackball without a mounting plate. I have no router and didn't know how to use one (still don't).

I used a sandwich approach. I used 5/8" wood panel with a hole for the full trackball assembly then attached 1/8" plywood on top with just a circle cut for the trackball itself.

In effect, I got the results of routing from underneath by using to pieces of wood glued together for my control panel.

[daveg2000]

I think I would be safe to say that I could just mount the
trackball plate on top for now, and save the beveling
for a future project?

When it comes time to bevel, I would just use all the existing
holes... it would just be a matter of going down that 1/8" or
whatever....

The lexan is already down, it was put on when it was made,
so that isnt coming off anytime soon....

Sounds like Im kinda screwed w/the lexan on already...




Timstuff:

[daveg2000]

By the way, I will be building a new panel next week with a trackball.

[markrvp]

daveg2000:

How is the Lexan held down to your panel?

[Elfman]

Since I am about to attempt this in the coming weeks, I thought I would post the steps to take based on the comments by Markrvp to make sure I have the process down right:

1) Cut the diagonal diamond shaped hole out of the CP required to house the trackball (Jigsaw).
2) Drill 4 holes for the mounting plate
3) Place the plate in the 4 holes and trace around the mounting plate
4) Remove plate and freehand router out the shape you just traced to the depth of the plate (roughly 1/16) by either setting the plunge depth to that depth(if you have a plunge router) or setting the bit to that depth.
5) Flip the plate back over and let it rest in the space you just routed with plate posts in the holes your drilled earlier.
6) Lay your Lexan over the CP and clamp it down tight.
7) Drill a hole in the lexan
With a finish bit, use the trackball hole as a guide and route out the lexan flush with the shape of the circle in the plate
9) Unclamp and attach trackball to mounting plate
10) Lay CP overlay using spray adhesive
11) Attach Lexan on CP

By this logic, it should appear exactly like Markrvp stated.  The lip of the track ball should be exactly flush with the Lexan.

Sheesh this board is invaluable.  You must always say to yourself "Someone must have already done this before me"

Thanks guys!

[markrvp]

That's exactly the way to do it!  I can't wait to see it.

[javeryh]

What if it's a metal CP in a cocktail?  Is the mounting plate still required?

[markrvp]

What if it's a metal CP in a cocktail?