Cutting angled panels before or after laminating?

[depressd]

I was wondering if anyone has any experience cutting angled panels that will be laminated. I read somewhere that I should laminate and then cut the panels. Is there a certain type of circular saw blade I should use? I'm afraid a standard blade will crack the laminate. I would appreciate any suggestions.

[FractalWalk]

It is easier to laminate and then cut. If not then you have to match the angle after the fact, which makes it a bit more sloppy.

I used a standard blade and it came out perfect. I also used a table saw, but a circular should work as well.

[AlanS17]

I cut a laminated table top with a circular saw and it worked fine for me - no knicks, scratches, or anything... I figure using a jigsaw is a little riskier with the whole up/down motion thing going on, but they make special blades for cutting laminate where the teeth face the opposite direction to prevent chipping.

This would be a better alternative to finding out the hard way that your wood and laminate don't match up.

[Tilzs]

If you cut the cp then laminate it then trim the laminate to whatever shape you have with a router and a flush trim bit it'll come out perfect. I'd go for the cut then laminate route.

[whammoed]

Routers do rule.  I bought a router to work on my first cab and I use it more and more due to perfect cuts it provides.  With a router you could laminate before or after and end up with a clean result regardless.  If you don't own a router get one, you won't regret it...best tool in the shop.

[FractalWalk]

I agree that trimming with a router is easy and professional looking. However, the question was about angled cuts.

If the angle is a bevel cut, then a router can't be used to trim the laminate unless you use special bit with the exact same angle (e.g. 45 degree).  For bevel cuts, you are best off laminating first and then cutting.

[MiKman]

One trick I learned is to run masking tape along the line you are going to cut. Using the finest toothed blade you can get and and cut right down the middle of the maskign tape and you will have no chipping of the laminate at all.

[depressd]

I appreciate all the feedback on this. These are angled panels. I already use a flush mount bit with my router for regular panels.  Which works really well. I've tried using that bit on angled panels after laminating. Which doesn't work that well since there is no edge for the bearing to sit against. I'll try laminating and then cutting.

[Tilzs]

So you do mean beveled?

[FractalWalk]

delete

[depressd]

Beveled or angled is all relative.

v. bev

[whammoed]

If you mean you have a mitered edge, you can clamp it on top of and in line with another stock piece that is unmitered and the bits bearing can ride against that.  Just an idea, im sure laminating first will work too.

[depressd]

whammoed, How would this work? The resulting angle would still not be 90 degrees. Which is what is needed to use a flush mount bit.

[whammoed]

I am probably still confused as to what you are doing.
This is what I had in mind but you may be doing something different?

[depressd]

whammoed, That would be a great idea. However, The total distance from the blade on the shank to the bottom of the bearing is 1/2". The panel is 3/4" and any additional stock added wouldn't work. Wait a min, Just thought of an idea. Flip the laminated side over and do it that way.


Thanks, whammoed

[whammoed]

No problem, my only concern would be that when the two pieces are joined there might be a small gap in the laminate since it was cut at a 90.  Just depends on how thick the laminate is i guess.  I Exaggerated the effect in the picture:

[FractalWalk]

With laminate samdwiched between the two pieces, how would you line it up so that you are sure the edges are even?  In other words, with the laminate applied, you would lose the ability to see the edge.  Most likely, they wouldn't be lined up and and you would be trimming an uneven edge, biting into the wood.

I still think laminate first and then cut for beveled edges.

BTW: I believe there is a distinct difference between a bevel and a miter cut. As usually defined bevel cuts are not perpendicular to the long axis of a board. Mitre cuts are.  For example, a compund miter saw makes both bevel and miter cuts.  All the pictures shown above are bevels.

But you are correct that it is really a question of relativeness.  

[Tilzs]

you can line up the ends easy enough and it should work out just fine. One might want to make sure your both boards are square however else you'll end up with undesireable results

[depressd]

Yeah, I was planning on matching the ends and trying to do that. Of course I did overlook the fact of the laminate being routed at 90 degrees and possibly causing a gap. Essentially, I am building the box for the control panel. Which has several "beveled, mitered, and angled" pieces. What to do, what to do....I went looking for laminate circular saw blades. They run about 50.00 U.S. and the jigsaw blades are about 6.00.  My biggest thing is trying to minimize the waste of laminate. Also I don't want to cut multiple times. For you guys that have laminated first and then cut. Did you cut the panel to size, laminate, and then cut the angle?

[FractalWalk]

Did you cut the panel to size, laminate, and then cut the angle?

All in one cut on a table saw. I basically laminated a large piece of wood and then cut it into 3 separate beveled sections. There wasn't much waste.

I don't think you would need a special blade to cut the laminate but I could be wrong. I didn't use one and mine came out fine.

[shmokes]

I just want to say thanks whammoed.  I've got some pieces I've already cut with beveled edges and I was just wondering how I would go about trimming the laminate once applied.  Unfortunately,  some of my pieces have bevels that won't work with your method.  Any more bright ideas?

[whammoed]

I just want to say thanks whammoed.  I've got some pieces I've already cut with beveled edges and I was just wondering how I would go about trimming the laminate once applied.  Unfortunately,  some of my pieces have bevels that won't work with your method.  Any more bright ideas?

I would imagine a lot of cabinets don't have a design that would call for laminate on an inside corner other than a 90.   Maybe a few do including yours.
Sorry no other ideas other than lining up the laminate with that edge and just cut the other.  See earlier post though, I really don't think this is the best method...it may be better to start over?

[FractalWalk]

shmokes:

Is that a 1UP design?

[shmokes]

   Good call.  They are pieces from the control panel.

[g-rock26]

laminate, then flip the board over and cut.  It works perfectly...just make sure that the blade does not stick out of the wood on the other side more than 1/8"...the more the blade comes down on the material, the more likely it is to chip.  We use table saws, jig saws and circular saws and we never have chips!

[depressd]

g-rock26, Are you cutting the angle before or after you laminate?

[FractalWalk]

 Good call.  They are pieces from the control panel.

Yeah, those gave me headaches for a while. I cut the pieces first and then couldn't figure out how to trim the laminate.  I actually ended up buying a table saw and that was one of the problems it solved.