I was actually researching the dragon and if it was worth the $$4 compared to a v6 with volcano and found this.
https://3dprintbeginner.com/dragon-hotend-vs-copperhead-v6/#:~:text=As%20you%20can%20see%20from,40mm%20fan%20with%20higher%20airflow.
I have a new V6 hotend for a printer project i never did wired for 12v (chiron is 24) but i also have plenty of spare heaters along with volcano heat blocks so i'm thinking i'll go that route then purchase the copper heatbreak.
just need to make sure my cooling is adequate for the heatsink.
Is ASA easier to print than ABS?
i think you are the first person i've seen mention it online.
I actually did have problems with the dragon high flow overheating and have to run it without a silicone sock on the heater block. So my experience concurs with the article.
I did not have any such problem with the standard dragon. The regular dragon probably could have handled the .6 nozzle. I bought the high flow a while back wanting to try huge nozzles and fast speeds someday.
My Voron 1.8 has a Trianglelabs V6 knockoff with an E3D titanium heatbreak. I notice no difference in print quality between it and the dragon. IMO the only advantage is ease of nozzle removal since it doesn't spin like a V6. FYI the titanium heatbreak sucks for PLA, but works great for everything else. PLA sticks to it when it retracts and causes issues, especially rubbery PLA+. Another note on the Dragon: I'm afraid to run any abrasive filaments through it because the heatbreak isn't easily replaceable like the V6. I assume the filaments would also scratch up copper much faster than titanium.
I'm still on my first roll of ASA (white Overture). So far it prints identical to ABS. It doesn't smell quite as bad, but supposed to be just as bad to breathe. I bought it because I had some bathroom and outdoor projects. I had previously made some indoor plant watering parts from PLA and they became brittle and disintegrated after a year submerged. ASA is more UV resistant than ABS, although I found out later that black ABS is pretty much UV resistant due to the black pigment absorbing all the UV light before it penetrates very far.
This material comparison from Polymaker is interesting to look at:
https://us.polymaker.com/pages/material-comparison(It's really just rating each category on a 1-5 scale, but the pictures are a neat way of comparing materials)
I like pursuing new materials. Whenever you get one figured out, there is a more difficult one to try. I had hoped to arrive at some perfect hardcore material, but have come to realize that every filament has some tradeoff. I thought Nylon was my grail, but look on the Polymaker charts at how much the characteristics change depending on humidity. Reinforce nylon and it gets more brittle to the point that the benefits of nylon are lost. The glass or carbon fiber has to fit through the nozzle, so it's more like reinforcing concrete with loose nuts and bolts than rebar. It's a shame because my insulated Voron 1.8 prints nylon perfectly. I will probably end up using Nylon only for sleeve bearings and maybe RC car bumpers someday.
So I am settling on ASA for most things because:
I print mostly brackets and tools which don't require fine detail and bridging of PLA. I also want them to last.
It has the same characteristics as ABS with added benefits of UV and weather resistance.
It isn't going to melt if left in a hot car or disintegrate if left in contact with water like PLA will.
I think I have the bridging settings in Cura pretty dialed in for it (45% fan on bridges only, skin overlap to 40% or else Cura starts skin in mid-air) EDIT: I have noticed that print times increase dramatically with the skin overlap increased. Overhang performance could use improvement.
I really like Polymax PC, but it is very expensive. It prints a bit easier than ABS. I still want to try straight PC filament to see how it compares. (requires Magigoo PC which is an added expense)
I had black Polaroid brand PETG that I bought because it was cheap. It could just be the brand, but it is too flexible and overhang performance sucks so that turned me off to PETG.
I want to try Polypropylene because it is food and dishwasher safe. Haven't needed those characteristics for any projects, but I will think of one. I did have to replace a polypropylene wheel in my dishwasher that fell off and melted against the heating element. Ended up using Polymax PC for that. The printed clip to hold the wheel on broke after a year of service. Dunno if PP would have done better.
I want to try printing Delrin for no good reason. Aside from sleeve bearings, it might make good joystick or shifter gates.