Motorcycle Cabinet For My Own Video Game

[DaredevilDave]

Hello! First post!

The Basics

I am designing a MAME cabinet, but it is being designed primarily to play (and themed after) my own motorcycle stunt game, "Daredevil Dave 2: Motorcycle Mayhem!". The game's character is an inept stuntman that is pretty much a cross between Evel Knievel and a likeable dimwit.

This 3D game was designed for mobile devices, but I ported it to Windows and have added joystick support specifically for this cabinet.

This is what I'm going for:



I used Cinema 4D (3D software) to design my cabinet. Using 3D really helps a lot in addressing potential problems, and gives you a great idea of how it is going to look when complete.

Then there's this:



My main obstacle is in designing the handlebars for the cabinet. There will not be a bike that you sit on, just handlebars. I have a dream of converting an old mechanical bull into a motorcycle though, because a lot of this game is about crashing and getting injured. That would be awesome - when you crash, you really crash!

I don't feel that my cabinet build is as interesting as the controls that I need to design, but I'll share some things that I may have done different than others.

First off - this is my first build. I'm not doing this as a true retro project, though I want a more retro than modern look. It's an original game so I have nothing to base it on.

I am designing the cabinet from the ground-up. I'm 48, grew up with Pong, Galaga, Links 386, Descent and Duke Nukem, and I design video games. I've used MAME off and on over the past few decades, so I'm not a noob to that. Making a cabinet for my own game seems like the logical next step for me haha. Sadly, nobody else is going to do it

I have full access to a large cabinet shop, with a CNC that can cut the side panels (dude, a CNC in my backyard!!!). I was watching it cut up a job just yesterday. Wow!

Unfortunately, the guy that runs it is on vacation for two weeks. My parents own the shop so I can work there any time, and I have enough experience with wood to build the cabinet, no problem. I didn't use the CNC. Now that the side panels are cut, I know that I will use the CNC next time! Lotta work, but I'm proud that I did it the old fashioned way.

I'll have a few photos of the cabinet in my next post.


My Main Issue - The Handlebars.

I want motorcycle handlebars with a working throttle for the game. I want them detachable, and the mount on the cabinet hidden once the bars are removed. There are virtually no handlebar controls available to purchase anywhere. Nothing even remotely do-able for me. So, I will make my own!

I needed a quick test set of handlebars to assist me in programming the game to use such a controller. Maybe it wouldn't work well?

I tore apart a Sidewinder Joystick and found the tiny little pots that make the whole thing work. I'm learning as I go. I rigged up a temporary steering setup out of PVC (I will use proper components in the final build!) and tested it with the game.

It's okay to laugh, they worked perfectly! I've never played my own game so well (you can see it in the background)! It was fun:



This is my test bench I used to figure out the control panel and monitor height I wanted to use. Haha, I see my foam/mouse hack paddle-wheel test from months ago.

I learned a lot, and after reading some other motorcycle threads here, I thought I'd share some of that.

Setting the bars up to steer on a vertical axis is not very motorcycle-ish. I later tilted them back 90 degrees to steer more like a car on a horizontal axis, and that was somewhat better. I wanted more of a leaning feel though. It just felt like steering. It never will be perfect but I want at least some realism.

So I mounted the PVC bars on 6 inches of pipe, raising them that far above the pivot point/axis (see image below too). Now when you steer, the bars not only rotate, but they move a short distance, or "lean" left or right too, on a sort of lever. It feels (very remotely) like leaning a bike. It's like steering with your hands on top of the wheel in a car, except - handlebars! Good enough! Plus the bars are lower than a wheel would be in a car.

Basically, if I stick the bars on top of a joystick handle sitting flat on a table, that's how it would work. So maybe I shouldn't have torn apart the Sidewinder after all

This is what I'm aiming for - below is a very basic rendering that just shows how it will operate. It won't look like this, I'm sure. I'm picturing something a little bulkier, but this is not my strong point so I don't know.



I will use real motorcycle bars, real throttle control and cable to operate the throttle. That part will be relatively simple, just some linkage and a "pot".

The steering is the tricky part for me. I've looked at everything from PS3 racing wheels to bearings mounts and rod sets on Amazon. Mounting the bars to the contraption I build is another problem. I don't have a machine shop but I can drill holes in metal and do some basics.

I want the handlebar contraption to be a self-contained unit. It will mount to the cabinet via a concealed hole beneath the control panel and be completely removable. This mount will accommodate steering wheels as well - theoretically. I'll have a control panel on the bars as well. In the game you have a control panel for adjusting the ramp height, so it will resemble that.

So, my main issues for now are:
- Making a set of handlebars twist a "pot" to steer the bike.
- Mounting the assembly to the cabinet in a detachable manner.

Everything else is just sawing, sanding and swearing!

I'm open to suggestions regarding the handlebars. This is not my area of expertise.

I'll have pics of the cabinet in my next post.

I'm so stoked to be doing this project and that this site exists!

 

[DaredevilDave]

I'll talk a little about the cabinet design. It's a wooden box, right but there are some things that may be interesting to some people.

Control Panel And Monitor Height

I worked out the height for my monitor and control panel by using an adjustable keyboard stand (the musical kind) for a half-arsed control panel, and a high shelf to mount my monitor on. This way I could raise or lower the monitor or controls for ergonomic goodness.

After a lot of testing, I settled on about 39" for the control panel height. I'm about 5'10", have carpal tunnel and RSI issues, and designed the cabinet ergonomically for me. It keeps my wrist pretty straight if I should rest it.

I don't have the controls yet so I used my keyboard for testing the height. I beat the crap outta that sucker playing Galaga.

I'm also thinking about spacing the buttons a little further from the joysticks than most cabs. I'll test more, but it seems uncomfortable to have them so close. Of course, this depends on how many controls you want on your panel.

The monitor height is still undecided. I do not want to be looking down at it very much. Its position will be adjustable in the cabinet too. The cabinet will be able to accept many different size monitors without much modification. Very cool.

I widened the original dimensions between side panels to 30". It will fit through a door sideways just fine. I will anchor it to the wall probably - I live in earthquake country, California. The short depth won't be a problem. I wanted more room for controls and a big monitor in the future. I didn't want an oversize control panel.

I am using simple USB controls from Amazon. Sanwa sticks, Happ style buttons.

Cabinet

I don't think there's much special going on here. One thing I don't like on some cabinets is the way the bottom is attached. A lot of people use short battens. Mine go to the floor. That sucker ain't goin' anywhere. I'll probably put another across the center too, and the back and front. Maybe.



I didn't make the curve quite how I wanted, but after all the work I did sanding the pattern down, too bad! It's fine as it is.

I did some battening or cleating, but not everywhere. I think it's overkill to do every panel, in my case anyways.

I kept the screws to a minimum, here's why. I glued the piece that goes behind the marquee, then screwed it in. 2 screws each end.

Less than 10 minutes later I decided I'd made a mistake, so I removed the screws. That panel would not budge. I had to hit it many times HARD with a hammer and a piece of wood, right at the edge of the panel, and when it came out, the panel broke before the freshly glued joint. Good glue! A box of screws is heavy too, so we'll have a good compromise.



I'm going to redo part of the marquee area to allow more airflow. Don't want too much heat from the light. Not all of the pieces are glued yet.

The piece that looks like the control panel top is not that, it's just a piece of MDF sitting there. The control panel will be a single piece of wood though rather than a box. It will be removable for servicing.

I decided on a near flat control panel. It's maybe 5 degrees, I didn't check. I don't think many kids or shorter people will be playing this. If so they can use a bar stool. I wanted it ergonomic for me, and a slanted panel just means I have to make it higher. I did allow for shorter players though, as it could have been a little higher even. I can always ship up the back later.

This sucker is tall - 76"! It's about 31.5" wide, and shallow enough to fit through a doorway sideways.

I'd say 80% of the panels are on now, and I was able to get the cabinet off the workbench and onto 2 dollys (on its side), wheeled it to my truck, and put it in the back by myself, without putting even a ding in the MDF.

I will have a place for a wireless keyboard, but probably no keyboard drawer. No room for it, and unless I use weird hinges, it's way too low for me to use anyways. Maybe I'll add a coin door and use it for storage.

I will mount some USB ports discreetly on the outside of the cabinet, as well as maybe volume control, and separate switches for the marquee and other stuff. Maybe even an external speaker jack (headphones?). And an ice chest?

To cut the cabinet I made a pattern on 1/4 inch "wood", then laid it out, cut along it with a jig saw, then routed along the pattern to smooth it out. Don't use a router to make the initial cut.

Thanks to the dude online who showed how to use a thin piece of wood and some nails to make a nice curve. I thought he was crazy when I watched it, but when it came time to make the pattern that's exactly what I did. You da man!

Next time I'm using the CNC. In fact, after spending all that time and elbow grease sanding that one curve, I would recommend anyone doing a similar type of cut to pay someone to do it with a CNC. If you enjoy the work, then of course do it by hand. But given how hot it was at the shop those days, it would have been worth the money.

From this point on I'm making this up as I go. I left room for the handlebar mount system (that doesn't exist yet). I'm deliberating on LED lights for the marquee, if I can find anything that looks good. Or I could make one easily.

The Game: Daredevil Dave!

One of the best parts of all this is that I can tweak my own game any way I want to. I designed it entirely myself over a few years time. For this cabinet, I added joystick control to the game, and an old arcade style "High score list". Players can type in their name (I added all my friends names ahead of time so I don't need to type as much) then play with their own profile. Any high scores are automatically added and displayed with their name.

High scores include Worst Crash, Most Property Damage, Best MotoX lap time, most derstructive tour. It's a fun, destructive game. The high score list appears on and off when the game is idle, as does a "Insert Coin!" flashing message just for fun.

By the way, I'm not trying to promote the game here. The first game did awesome back in 2010 and was a top 10 game on iTunes App Store. I was able to quit my real job. This game, the sequel, bombed and I don't expect that to change. It's a ten times better game too. It's just a different market now, so oh well. At least I work at home now.

Here is a 30 second video, but I won't link to any sales pages or iTunes (it's iPhone only, and the Windows game for my cabinet is not for sale). It's a unique game. I did everything myself except the voice of the main character.



Build Specs

I was using an old Mac Mini running Windows 7 in a VM but my own game wouldn't run on it. For anyone interested, MAME did work well on it, and with a joystick.

I had this other machine laying around. It's a lot of computer for MAME, but I need it to run my game:

Intel Q9950, 2.83G
4 GB Ram
GeForce 9800GT
Windwos 7 64bit

MAMEUI 149 (for now, need to learn more about different versions)

MaLa Frontend (for now?)

Monitor: HP 24" IPS (for now, this cab will easily accept a 32" 16:10 monitor which I prefer over 16:9 for the extra height)

Games:
- Daredevil Dave 2 (my game / requires the faster machine)
- Any motorcycle/bike games I can find!
- Mostly MAME stuff
- Some consoles (Blades - Of - Steel ---- 'Ching!')

Again, I'm all ears if anyone has controller ideas. I'm going to buy a small set of lightweight handlebars, a throttle control and cable. Bar clamps/risers and the upper tree/triple clamp (what do they call it on dirt bikes, been too long?). Or, better yet, make my own mount that will attach to the rest of it. Somehow.

 

[ppv]

I dot not know if you will like playing driving games standing, but interesting concept! Handlebars seems to be the forgotten child of the arcade controller world, but maybe I just do not know better.  Kudos On programming your own games! 

[reptileink]

This seems like a fun project!

I was able to find these Hang-On handlebars on Ebay. Not sure if they would work for you. If you ride, I assume you have multiple bars laying around for free 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/151815491838?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

Anyway, good luck on your build, I'm not that great at creating harnesses or mounts from scratch, but looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

[DaredevilDave]

I dot not know if you will like playing driving games standing, but interesting concept! Handlebars seems to be the forgotten child of the arcade controller world, but maybe I just do not know better.  Kudos On programming your own games! 

Well on a dirt bike you are standing a lot of the time Plus, I need to get out of my chair sometimes. It's good for ya!

In this game the levels are short. You jump a bunch of trucks, you jump helicopters, grinders - you may ride for 15 seconds in most levels. There is a motocross track though. I couldn't imagine sitting really, unless I had a bike, but I'm not going that far. Dave spends more time on his butt after a crash than on his bike haha.

This started as a MAME machine. When I thought about painting it and design, I suddenly remembered i had my own game (duh) so it became a bike cab. Sort of.

I also have an unfinished space type game. It's like Galaga except 3D, and you are in the ship. So it's a weird perspective.

[DaredevilDave]

This seems like a fun project!

I was able to find these Hang-On handlebars on Ebay. Not sure if they would work for you. If you ride, I assume you have multiple bars laying around for free 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/151815491838?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

Anyway, good luck on your build, I'm not that great at creating harnesses or mounts from scratch, but looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

Thanks for this! It's been many years since I've rode. I have no bike, and no bars. The bars look interesting. It gives me an idea anyways...I can make a simple mount, or find and rig one up. That image may help

I'm going ahead with the cab and making the bars as I find the inspiration and parts. It will probably be the last thing I add.

I can get free bars, but they may be too heavy. I think lightweight would be best. Gonnahit the motorcycle shops soon.

[DaredevilDave]

I have what i think is a simple question.

On Amazon I can get joysticks and buttons. But about the controller card - the ones they offer say it is a Joystick "card", but I see others using an iPac which is, I believe, a keyboard controller type.

Would I have better results with the iPac? It would seem mapping to a keyboard would be more reliable and provide more options. I assume this is similar to the keyboard hacks people do.

I assume the same buttons (or any switches) will work with either card.

I'm reordering parts right now because my order was screwed up, so I can change it if I want.



Edit to add
I went ahead and ordered the joystick one. I can still exchange it later so interested in any opinions.

[PL1]

Which type of steering control is the game designed for?

•   Microswitch (digital) - Full turn or no turn
•   Potentiometer (analog) - Variable amounts of turn

More on analog encoder options here.


Scott

[DaredevilDave]

Which type of steering control is the game designed for?

•   Microswitch (digital) - Full turn or no turn
•   Potentiometer (analog) - Variable amounts of turn

More on analog encoder options here.


Scott

Analog - I tested using pots from an old joysticks. They're 270 degrees.

ETA:
Unless I think of another way, like maybe finding better quality pots, I will use the ones in the Sidewinder Joystick I took apart. Should I get better pots? I want this to be good quality.

I was thinking about soldering new switches and leads to the existing j-stick switches and using those for a mini on-bike control panel. That way people don't need to reach to the cabinet to reset the level or whatever. And I can do it all with the single USB.

However, if I can buy better pots I could just buy my own controller card and not rely on the Sidewinders pcb and switches.

But can these pots be wired directly to a controller card, because it seems like the Sidewinder does more than that, looking at the pcb inside it? I'll guess that the controller cards take care of that, but I don't know for sure.

[PL1]

Sorry about the confusion -- got a bit lost in the wall 'o text.   

Short version seems to be that you're going to use several encoders:

- Gamepad encoder for the joysticks/buttons (always connected)

- Hacked gamepad controller for the handlebars (removable)

If you are planning to unplug the USB connection when you remove the handlebars, check out Drventure's ControllerRemap for Mame and Stigzler's ControllerRemap GUI.

They probably won't help with the game you wrote, but they will help with MAME.   


Scott

[DaredevilDave]

Sorry about the confusion -- got a bit lost in the wall 'o text.   

Short version seems to be that you're going to use several encoders:

- Gamepad encoder for the joysticks/buttons (always connected)

- Hacked gamepad controller for the handlebars (removable)

If you are planning to unplug the USB connection when you remove the handlebars, check out Drventure's ControllerRemap for Mame and Stigzler's ControllerRemap GUI.

They probably won't help with the game you wrote, but they will help with MAME.   


Scott

Okay, thanks! I was wondering about how MAME, Windows etc would handle the removal of the handlebars/USB device.

I do tend to get wordy. I spread my first posts out over two posts instead of one big though haha.

The Mount
I made some progress on the design for the mount system.

It consists of a pipe mounted in the cabinet, horizontally, front to rear. This pipe will have a catch at the far end. This catch may be simply a bolt running across the diameter of the pipe. This pipe will not protrude outside the cabinet.

The handlebars will have another pipe, slightly smaller in diameter. This pipe slides into the first pipe. The end of this pipe is notched (two "J" shaped notches) so that it can be twisted and locked around the bolt inside the mount pipe.

Behind all of that, and inside the tube, is a spring which pushes the handlebar tube forward toward the player. This holds the pipes in place within the notch.

Here's my sketch, except that I'd notch both sides of the pipe:



I will put some kind of very thin hard rubber-ish material (not sure what) around the inner pipe near the handlebar end to help seat it tightly so there's no wobble. It's the little black strip on the right side of the top - ah whatever. Sorry about the drawing. Hopefully it makes enough sense.

I really think this is a good solution for me and my abilities:
- No wrench needed, not even a wingnut to tighten. Just push in hard and twist to release.
- Mount is hidden in cabinet when bars are off.
- I can make it with a Dremel and a saw.

I made a simple prototype with PVC and it should work great. I should be able to use this mount for a steering wheel too.

[DaredevilDave]

Here is my idea for a mount that will allow my handlebars, and other things like steering wheels, to quickly be attached and removed from the cabinet with no tools.



This is the mount I am going to build, unless something better comes to mind. I need a "no tools" design since I can't reach inside the cabinet and tighten down anything.

The blue tube with the notches slips into a slightly larger receiving tube. A bolt runs across the diameter of the receiving tube.

You just push in the blue pipe (with the handlebars mounted on it) and give it a twist. The red spring holds it in place. The dark gray thing is just to keep the spring from slipping into the blue pipe as it compresses.

No tools required!

I don't know if anyone has use for such a mount, but thought I'd share the idea.

For me, it's easy to make. I saw people on Youtube cutting hardened bolts and stuff with a Dremel, so between that and a hacksaw, I think I can cut out the slot in the pipe. The rest is simple.

To access the mount, I will have a small hole down low below the control panel. The hole will have some kind of cover on it - maybe magnetic? Pull off the cover and slide in the handlebar thingy, and that's it.

The USB cable will also feed through this hole.

In other news, I got my "Player 1 and 2" buttons today. not a huge deal, but it's my first components for the cabinet! It put a smile on my face. Tomorrow come the buttons and sticks. And light for the marquee - a whopping 24 incher. Thinking of going LED, but I bought this for now.

By the way, mechanical stuff is not my specialty.

[MrThunderwing]

Maybe you could make use of something like this for your handlebars?



More info below...
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Thrustmaster+Freestyler+Bike&oq=Thrustmaster+Freestyler+Bike&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.664j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

[DaredevilDave]

Maybe you could make use of something like this for your handlebars?


More info below...
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Thrustmaster+Freestyler+Bike&oq=Thrustmaster+Freestyler+Bike&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.664j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

I SO wish!

I've seen those online, and a few similar, but they all had really bad reviews. One was a "Yamaha" set. I couldn't find the Thrustmaster one available, but again all I found were negatives. I do appreciate the help!

I thought about buying a good Logitech wheel and modifying that, but it seemed more trouble than making my own, getting it to mount, plus they are bulky. That's still an option though.

I'm getting closer to a final design for the steering control part of the handlebars. I don't know if people care to see my render images - I like to use 3D to conceptualize projects sometimes. It also helps when people can give advice before I start building. This is uncharted territory for me.

These may be part of the solution (bearings in a mount):
https://www.amazon.com/UCP205-16-Pillow-Mounted-Bearing-Diameter/dp/B002BBQAK0/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1467339916&sr=1-1&keywords=bearings+mounted


I thought about seating bearings in a pipe instead, but my accomplishing that seems less likely than using these mounts. It will be bulkier, but way easier for me to make.

More renders (plans)

Below is my first version. This is utilizing the bearing/mounts in the Amazon link above. They're not mounted to anything in this image, just floating in space.

So, left to right:
- the vertical box on the left is the arm that the handlebars attach to. They are above the view of the picture.
- the red spring centers the wheel. Now this is probably going to suck - I can imagine the wheel bouncing back and forth if someone lets go of it! I'll need a better plan I think.
- a rod goes through the 2 bearings and twists the pot (small dark colored thing on the right).




Idea #2

Here the bearings are seated inside a pipe (partially transparent). Nice and compact, but I don't know if I can build that.

The first design will probably be closer to what I will do. I can put this stuff into a box, and I can have the throttle linkage and pot in there as well. However, if I could figure out idea #2 I could use the same idea for the throttle and have it all in the handlebar itself. Ya good luck with that!



I hope I'm not getting too detailed here. Sorry if my images are confusing. I know it's a lot to try and explain.

My button and joysticks will be here tomorrow, then I can really get to work! I want the cabinet construction (minus the bars) to be "complete" by Sunday night.

This project is partially therapeutic. My game did not sell and I need a major break from that work. This cabinet is the number one thing I am thinking about right now. Screw work, screw the real world, I'm building something for me!

[DaredevilDave]

The 24 inch 16:10 monitor was a laughing stock in this 30 inch wide (interior) cabinet. I went to Fry's after seeing a slim bezeled 32" 1080 TV for 130 bucks, refurbished. After a bait-and-switch I got a new one for $185 out the door. Not bad at all. It's an out of production RCA. No frills, but it looks surprisingly good, and Daredevil Dave looks frickin awesome, even up that close!

I really wanted the taller 16:10 setup, but after watching a video of my game on my own 32 inch TV I decided I could settle for 1080. Any taller at this distance might actually be hard to play. And I never thought a 32 would actually fit, so 1080 is good.



So I'm learning a lot as I go with this first project - yes, I said first, I think I'm getting addicted already hah. There is a lot of vertical space in the monitor area, even with the high control panel (39" / 99 mm). It's 76" tall (193 mm) which could be lower, and the marquee should be taller for it's width, which would help with the big empty space thing.

I'm doing something weird maybe. Since I have all the empty space I decided to add a keyboard drawer and/or storage compartment below the monitor and its bezel (once it has one). Photo first...



This thing will be pushed deeper into the cabinet, of course. The front of it is actually angled back the same angle as the monitor. It doesn't look like it in the photo. There will be maybe a 1 inch shelf area before the bezel begins.

The door sits perfectly it its spot when it's closed. With the right graphic overlay I can make the seams almost invisible. I will probably route/round out the top edge. Oops I see some screws in the way. It's always something!

If I add the drawer it will extend far out and clear the joysticks, maybe using them for support. If that's a bad idea then I'll do something else for support. I'd rather have the keyboard up high, as I'm a crappy typist and I don't want to have to look down at my waist to do it.

I may put the player buttons on the front panels to the left and right of the door. Maybe not. Maybe an LED light will turn on inside when the door opens. I thought of making it look like Dave's roll-up garage door, but making the door? - hmmm.

This all looks okay in my 3D rendering, which I'm too tired to upload. We shall see! I'm not gluing any of this yet so I can change it or remove it. That space needs something though.

I am going to buy acrylic for the control panel and marquee tomorrow (stop me if acrylic is bad). I need to open up the marquee area too so the light doesn't get hot in there.

I need to make a few "Keith Holes" in the panel holding up the monitor. My friend Keith came up with the idea for a little hole in the back to stick my finger in and release the first monitor I had in there (it had a catch/release), so I named it after him. Any hole that allows you to reach an area of the monitor is now a "Keith Hole". It's a little weird, yes.

Control panel tomorrow, then the cabinet will most likely take a 20 minute drive with me to my house for a possible test. I need to get it out of the shop!

By the way, this is a kick-ass custom cabinet shop and I'm so lucky to have it available. I only use the basics - table saw, chop, drill press etc. I have cheap versions of most of that at home, but not the awesome space that I have here. I could build a house inside this place

Cheers!

[DaredevilDave]

Control Panel

This panel is 30" wide and 15" deep.

I don't know if any of this is unusual. I'm only trying to cover things in this thread that may be different than other cabinets. For me, the controls are the weird/interesting part, not so much the cab.



I like the joysticks further from the buttons than a lot of people. I would have spaced them out more but I needed room for other things. In fact I'd probably play Galaga using the left stick and a Player 2 button, or at least switch buttons for comfort. I can't see a good reason, other than available space, to put buttons so close to joysticks. I spaced the nearest button 9.5" from the joystick center.

I based the button patterns on the shape of my own hand. Player 2 controls are rotated counter clockwise a bit since the player will be turned toward the screen center and not facing straight ahead.

As for the gaps in the joystick areas (they aren't mounted yet), I don't have vertical room for two layers of plexiglas (I went with Lexan). So I will print the artwork on thicker stock and lay it right on the panel. It will not sink into the holes. Then the Lexan goes on top - very thin sheet. Very simple.

I did a crap job routing the joystick holes, but it really makes no difference once it's covered (ETA: on second thought, I'm full of it, I should have done better haha). The areas that need to be strong are strong, so we're good.

I don't want to permanently affix the artwork in case I need to service or remove components. I'm just gonna lay it in there. The control panel will mount with sleeved threaded inserts and bolts and hold it flat.

Oh the black round thing is a place holder for a trackball. I guess I'm going with a 3-incher. After a lot of searching I THINK I'm going to go with the X-Arcade trackball. Good price, good quality, good warranty, has USB and PS2. I looked at the U-Trak (thanks for the lightning fast email response btw) but, after reading about it here I decided to go with the X-Arcade. It was a tossup so I went with price (still 5% undecided! Convince me!)

The others are too expensive or require additional adapters which make them so. I thought about an illuminated one - they do look cool actually, but I thought it might be too distracting. Plus, even though I'm using an LCD I want it to be "retro" somewhat. 

There are cheap ones available, but I don't want to have to tear it out when it breaks and re-route holes etc for another.

The cabinet is mostly "done". Just need to put the remaining parts in place.

Oh, I was going to use acrylic instead of Lexan, but they didn't have the right size at the store, so I spent twice as much on Lexan ($30 for 28x30 by about .1 inches). It cuts great on a table saw, drills easily, is tough. I have enough left for the marquee, if it isn't too flimsy. On the table saw, I put a piece of wood on top to keep it flat (it kept trying to lift near the back of the blade). Worked great.

Gonna start looking at paint now.

[DaredevilDave]

Well I'm learning a lot of new things since yesterday.

The buttons I bought for the control panel are not good. I'm going to get tendonitis pushing these things before long. Turns out it's the switch - after removing the button spring it made no difference - so I ordered new switches from GroovyGameGear. "Classx" leaf switches as recommended by some on this site. Added another $50 to my build. Sounds good though.

I bought Happ style buttons and maybe they are always that stiff? I couldn't imagine playing like that. Anyways, the solution is on the way. The buttons are actually fine without the switches.

I also learned that Sanwa joysticks aren't wired and ready for my controller card. Yay! After some experimenting I found I can use the combo with some finaggling of the wires and connecting all the grounds together. It works.

I played Galaga on my new half built control panel - pretty cool, except for the stiff buttons. But it felt like I was getting close!

Still have not decided on a trackball. U-Trak or X-Arcade. I like the price of the X-Arcade and the fact that it comes with USB/PS2 hardware, and four buttons too (I may not use them though). The U-Trak will be $25 more. Any opinions?

Spinner!

I'm not sure if I will add a spinner. If so, I will most likely make my own. I tried a mouse hack and it works no problem, but getting hardware to make this thing is a little tricky. Just kind of waiting to see what I find along the way - it's not high on my list but I'd like to make all my CP holes

Not much else to say - I'm gonna need to start thinking about the handlebars soon.

[DaredevilDave]

Cost so far:

32" display     185
wood               30 (some was free)
controls          120-ish
leaf switches   45 (delivered)
Lexan            35
24" light         19
2 beers     free (after work only, I never drink while using sharp objects)

Total so far  $434

Seems like I'm forgetting something

Things I still need
Trackball           80 +/- (yikes)
Artwork printing   
paint etc
All kinds of little things - power strips, switches, bolts, beer, t-molding. Beer.

Oh yeah - motorcycle handlebars, hardware, throttle system.

Good thing I'm rich! Oh wait...

[DaredevilDave]

Okay, it isn't done and there are no handlebars, BUT - I brought it home last night and for the first time, I got to play my own video game on a standup arcade machine. Yes, I had to build my own, but it was awesome! In fact, that made it even more cool!

Threw in a cheap 2.1 PC speaker system, stuffed it inside, and it sounded pleasingly muffled and distant, just like the real thing!



I need to sand the wood filler and do a lot of other tinkering. Figure out where to put USB ports, how to hide them, stuff like that.

I received the new leaf switches for my buttons today. Wow! What an improvement! Thank you Groovy Game Gear!

I am going to wire up the full control panel today and test things out.

Does anybody here have experience using a big monitor in a cabinet and finding it too big?

I'm not sure about this 32 inch screen. I just measured and I am about 24, maybe 28 inches from the screen as I play. It almost seems too big, or maybe it could be lowered. Just wondering if anyone else has opinions or experience with it. It's almost like I'd have to look around the screen while playing Galaga for instance, although I did well on it last night when I tried.

It's pretty cool but definitely looking for opinions on the screen size, and in general.

Was cool having a friend over last night, peeking over each others shoulders while we played. He kept saying, "Dude, it's 1985 again!"

 

[wemr97dl]

I have a super hang on game and the controls seem like they would work well without reinventing the wheel. Not to mention the arcade controls for the most part are built like tanks and would hold up a lot better than most home made controls.
On Ebay right now
http://www.ebay.com/itm/sega-hang-on-arcade-controller-for-parts-1/252343007659?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D35389%26meid%3D67f894f953194fff81fda221471f7644%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D262368694353

You could build a mounting base that could attach to the top of your CP with threaded inserts. Have never done it but you may be able to disconnect the handlebars from whatever control interface you use with a plug in connector and leave the USB connected?

[wemr97dl]

By the way the game looks fun is it available for windows??

[yotsuya]

I'm not sure about this 32 inch screen. I just measured and I am about 24, maybe 28 inches from the screen as I play. It almost seems too big, or maybe it could be lowered. Just wondering if anyone else has opinions or experience with it. It's almost like I'd have to look around the screen while playing Galaga for instance, although I did well on it last night when I tried.

It's pretty cool but definitely looking for opinions on the screen size, and in general.

Thank you for posting this. At one time, some of us tried to tell people that larger didn't always mean better when it comes to playing these old games, as 32" screens weren't intended to be stood that close to. It's nice when people post experiences that mirror it.

[yotsuya]

Oh, and cue someone posting how their 32" inch screen is AWESOME and they wouldn't go any smaller/go big or go home.

[DaredevilDave]

By the way the game looks fun is it available for windows??

Thank you for the handlebar link. I'll look into it some more tomorrow when I'm more awake. This can be converted to USB?

The only Windows version of the game is the one in this cabinet. I've thought about releasing it for a few bucks somehow.

It is available on the iPhone and iPad, and it IS fun! Half the game is crashing and racking up injuries and property damage.

I could make the game 100% arcade compatible. Right now it needs some mouse action to get through the menus. I'd remove some of the options. I'd sure like more people playing it and I would give away copies maybe to some people, especially if anyone wanted to put it in their own cabinet. I've been thinking about that.

Maybe I could make a free not-too-limited version for now and check that out. There are other videos out there if you want to see more game play.

[DaredevilDave]

I'm not sure about this 32 inch screen. I just measured and I am about 24, maybe 28 inches from the screen as I play. It almost seems too big, or maybe it could be lowered. Just wondering if anyone else has opinions or experience with it. It's almost like I'd have to look around the screen while playing Galaga for instance, although I did well on it last night when I tried.

It's pretty cool but definitely looking for opinions on the screen size, and in general.

Thank you for posting this. At one time, some of us tried to tell people that larger didn't always mean better when it comes to playing these old games, as 32" screens weren't intended to be stood that close to. It's nice when people post experiences that mirror it.

I'm letting a few friends test it without mentioning my concerns about the screen size. I asked them later and so far so good. But I'm not sure yet. Maybe this info will help others.

Daredevil Dave (my game) looks so cool that big. It's like VR glasses - you're ON the bike! The handlebars will be set back a little more from the cab. For that game the monitor is perfect!

I also installed Links 2003 Golf (waiting for TW '08 from Amazon) and Jack Nicklaus 5 (I designed one of the par fives and it appears on the box - my first game design claim to fame!). Those games look fantastic even up close. The screen is far enough so that you see no pixels and it's stunning actually.

Now, as for the classics with moving things flying around the screen - I beat my high score on Galaga today with it. The screen could be lower actually, a little. And sliding it back further into the cabinet will cure the problem if I decide it's too big - I think, there isn't a lot of room for that. But so far I have no back on the cabinet and none of the mounts are glued yet, so.... 

I will price a few 30 inchers and see what's available just in case. I think the 32 will be okay, but it IS something I'm concerned about. I have several weeks to return it if I need to.

My advice to someone as of right now would be to go a little smaller for that distance, at least for MAME. Slide it back several inches though and I think it'd be ok. It's REAL close to being okay!

It is awesome for racing though! I just measured again and I am about 28-30 inches (71-76 cm for you lucky metric users) from the screen using the main joystick controls.

It might be a grueling job, but all I can do is sacrifice myself and play more video games and keep checking it out.

[DaredevilDave]

I just played around with my video card settings and found I can resize my desktop (nvidia settings). The image still looked pretty good, but I'll take a closer look after I sleep. Could be an easy option, and I could play my higher res games with the full desktop size. It would be cool if I could make the resize app-specific. Well one thing at a time.

At least I can test different size screens without pulling out the display.

Anyways, thought I'd mention the resize option in case anyone else has a monitor that's too big. Who knows? 

If you have a monitor that's too small you may be able to use this feature to increase its size! 

[DaredevilDave]

It's been quite a search finding a mountable USB "hub". I really want to hide some USB ports outside the cabinet somewhere, and I wanted at least 4 ports.

I may get a second one of these, but we'll see. Coolness! USB 2.0 only but I think it's all I need. It's USB 3.0, I just noticed.



$20 US, fits in 5.25", or 3.5" bays if you take it apart. I wish it wasn't so deep but it won't be a problem, especially if I get it up near a panel. Can't complain - I found it locally, in stock, and on a Sunday!

ETA: This requires power from your computer to work (it did for me anyways) and includes Molex and SATA ports./

I also saw some network port wall adapters at the store, so I grabbed one, plus the "Keystone" type insert that goes in it. $6. And one 14' (4.2 meters) CAT3e cable for $7 (half the price of the big stores). This computer has always been my media center so I want it wired to the network until further notice.

The back.
I don't know how much I will enclose the back of the cabinet.

Full enclosure means I need to ventilate it with fans. I could control the air that comes into the cabinet this way, and even filter out the dust. Blowing more air in than out would create positive pressure forcing the air to only come in where the fans are, which would really control dust, which could be an issue here.

It would also hide any fan noise from the PC, as my video card makes noise when I play Daredevil Dave. Adding more fans to hide the sound of a fan - ya, sounds counterintuitive. (sorry forum software but counterintuitive is a word )

Oh, it would keep out dangerous creatures, like kids! But I don't have any around. Then again, adults drinking alcohol can be a worse problem.

I've seen "Partial" enclosures where a large back area is enclosed but not all of it. That would add strength to the cabinet but wouldn't really accomplish anything else. I guess a few cross-braces if needed would suffice. Actually I'm happy with the cabinets stability.

Hmmm, I just spent $6 on this network wall plate so I need a back to mount it to, don't I haha, that's the deciding factor! 

I welcome any input on cabinet backsides

*** Random ***

I have what may be a unique way of cleaning my computers out.



I open it up, take it outside, grab my electric leaf blower, and I blast the sucker. You betcha!

I start at a distance and work closer to be safe. It isn't as strong as a gas powered one but it packs a punch. I can get in the nooks behind the case faceplate, under the motherboard.

That CPU fan is spotless after that. I spin that thing like it's never been spun, I guarantee it. I've never had a problem, I've been doing it for 3 or 4 years. Not often at all though. Maybe I'll fry a fan. Screw it, it's fun too!

With this cabinet computer I was getting really high CPU temps and it was shutting down. I saw the CPU fan packed with dust. After blasting it my temps fell 50% and are well below normal. I think it started around 90 celsius and ended up in the forties. IIRC.

Just thought I'd share haha.

[wemr97dl]

It Can be converted to USB using and A pac from Ultimarc or similar to hook up the Pots, but I personally havent used one yet so maybe someone else can give you better advice

[DaredevilDave]

Just had to say again how awesome the new leaf switches are from Groovy Game Gear. They're perfect, that's it.

It Can be converted to USB using and A pac from Ultimarc or similar to hook up the Pots, but I personally havent used one yet so maybe someone else can give you better advice

Okay cool, thanks for the info. I'm slowly figuring out how a lot of these controls work.

I've decided I'm going to build my own for sure now. I will make them look like the handlebars in the game, which are basically dirt bike style, so that's where I will start. What the heck, may as well go all out/try. I want to make it look slick.

I'm really liking the location of the keyboard compartment. It will hide well with the door in place. Maybe I'll rig up a few LEDs to go on inside when the door opens.

Trackballs!

I would love opinions (or facts!) - I really like golf games. I enjoy Golden Tee, but I also like Links and Tiger Woods.

Can Tiger woods, and I guess other trackball games like Centipede, be played well with a 3" Trackball?

From my understanding, the difference between the two 2.25" vs 3") is the free spinning of the ball, which leads me to believe the ball is heavier. Maybe I'm wrong? Maybe it depends on the model?

Tiger Woods has trackball mode but I don't think it's the same as Golden Tee. I never played a lot of GT in cabinets so I don't know the finer points. I know you can spin the crap out of it while playing, but is it necessary? I have played it with a normal PC trackball and it seems "okay", but people say it's not the same as the arcade.

I've looked this up here and have "learned" the above, just looking for more opinions. I can't decide which one to get. So far I like U-Trak and X-Motion for 3".

I'm going to cut the Lexan for the control panel today. Bringing Emma the dog with me (dog-sitting). I think I'll use a router with the CP as a guide, and sandwiched between another piece of wood. I think Lexan is easy to drill and cut but I want to be safe.

Need a trackball soon!

Thanks everyone for all the advice! It makes this project more enjoyable.

[BigCurtis]

So after reading a nice Paperboy restore blog the other day, and really being a fan of unique human interface devices, I had been thinking about what I could work up in regards to bike handles.

You might want to mimic the functionality of the fixed gun mount games... on a bike you're only turning so far left or right, or leaning so far forward or back, before you're no longer on the bike. The heavy duty mounts for the SNK guns for example, could easily fill this role nicely it seems. Just avoid the light guns and look at the dual potentiometer based and you've a great starting point. I can take detailed pics of the parts I have if you want to self manufacture something, so at least you can see how others solved it, just let me know.

[DaredevilDave]

I've never seen a Paperboy cab before. My only experience was on the NES (I think). Pretty cool! Thanks for that! I would actually appreciate very much seeing how it mounts. Maybe it would work, or maybe I could use the idea. Thank you!

After you mentioned a gun mount I remembered that I wanted to play with the joystick some more. So, I put the Sidewinder back together and added some super custom lightweight handlebars (they are one of a kind so please don't ask to buy them from me;) )



Hey man, it works damn well! I customized the game to use the entire Y axis for the throttle, rather than forward and reverse with "zero" being in the middle (I ran the Y axis pot to the throttle lever accidentally haha). In other words, pushing the throttle fully forward is zero throttle and fully back is full throttle (it's a motorcycle so - backwards).

I did this so that the player has more leeway in finding the correct bike speed. It was way too touchy before. Uh, ya, after rereading this I see I'm probably making no sense. It works that's all

I cut the Lexan for the control panel yesterday using a drill and router. I put blue tape over the joystick screws temporarily just in case they scratch the Lexan. A few of them are a bit TOO flush and kinda- sorta might rub the Lexan.



I was able to cut this as well as the 2 marquee pieces from one 36" x 30" x 1/8" (+/-) piece ($33). The control panel is 15.5" deep everything and the marquee is less than 6". I would have liked it taller but it's okay.

I stayed awake until 4 am "testing" the controls Of course, they are "backwards" after adding the second set, meaning it's time to grab the controllermapping script recommended above.

Like I said, I used controls off Amazon, but I had to do a few things to make them work.



The Sanwa stick isn't setup for this controller card. The card accepts 2 pin connectors. I got it to work with the supplied connectors by cutting the other ends off, hooking all the grounds together, then butt-splicing the j-stick wires to the controller wires.

It's not a pretty wiring job - actually for me, it is awesome. But the wires were short so I did what I could. Replacing them all would be nice. I still need to take it all apart again once more so it's still temporary.

I'm programming the game to work without a mouse as much as possible. It was actually designed for mobile touch screens but has full mouse function as well.

I would really like to share this game somehow in the near future.

ETA: Daredevil Dave runs on Windows but I can build it for Mac as well with no extra work. I could do Linux too. It will even run in a browser if I want to build it for one.

[Generic Eric]

I'm programming the game to work without a mouse as much as possible. It was actually designed for mobile touch screens but has full mouse function as well.

I would really like to share this game somehow in the near future.

ETA: Daredevil Dave runs on Windows but I can build it for Mac as well with no extra work. I could do Linux too. It will even run in a browser if I want to build it for one.

I scrolled through your post to find out why weren't talking more about your game.  What is your intention with your game?  Was it just something for you to try? What is your target price?  How about emailing humblebundle? I'd like to try your game.  I'm really excited to see games being built developed for our platform (arcade)

[DaredevilDave]

I scrolled through your post to find out why weren't talking more about your game.  What is your intention with your game?  Was it just something for you to try? What is your target price?  How about emailing humblebundle? I'd like to try your game.  I'm really excited to see games being built developed for our platform (arcade)

Well my intention with the game was to get rich selling it on the iPhone. It's been available for 7 months. It just didn't do well like the first one did. It's a fun game, I played it last night. It's sort of hard though (it takes thought and skill) and I honestly think people don't want difficult games, at least on the mobile device. I don't know really.

After deciding to make the cabinet I figured I'd theme it after my own game. I actually gave up on the game pretty much. I'd like to try selling it on another platform but I just have less ambition than I used to now. I figure it won't sell there either.

If I had a reason to make more games I would. Right now it's not working out financially so I'm pretty bummed. One reason I'm doing this build.

Maybe there are options out there. I'd never heard of humblebundle, thanks. It's almost fully PC compatible - a few controls need to be modified since it's for touch screens. It plays so much better on a big screen and "handlebars".

I thought about putting it on the Mac app store, but Apple is a total pain in the butt to work with. I mean they are demented in the depth of the stranglehold they have on their own products. No offense to any Apple lovers but I can't stand their business model and I hate their OS. I'm done designing for Mac, no matter what I decide to do in the future. Yay!

So I dunno, I'm open to ideas, like humble bundle. I had a contract with Electronic Arts/Chillingo to publish the game but I pulled out of the deal. I own the trademark to Daredevil Dave, for what it's worth. If I could design a cab version that'd be cool, I mean I'm doing that now. Do people still make arcade games?

ETA:
I always wanted to design a golf game. I like Golden Tee okay, but I'd like a better looking non-MAME version. Something as simple, not like Tiger Woods I thought about making one myself. I kind of need a new direction if I'm going to continue designing games. By the way I use Unity for my game engine.

Maybe I'll make a video of me playing the game (Dave) just so you all can check it out.

Within the single game of Motorcycle Dave, you can play motorcycle bowling (crash into a giant bowling lane), skeeball (use your imagination), golf and a gigantic pachinko machine Dave slams around in for points. Heck these could all be mini games of their own.

[DaredevilDave]

After playing Daredevil Dave with the joystick/handlebar mockup, I'm halfway thinking I could maybe modify an existing joystick for this. Handlebars are heavy, but maybe I could make some with ABS? They make super light handlebars too, of cour$e.

I guess I'm basically designing a joystick with only an X axis. It does feel nice having some room to move on the Y axis too, even though it doesn't do anything in the game (yet?).

I wonder if I should find a heavier duty joystick and use that? And one without a mechanically sloppy dead-zone. I always thought a modified steering wheel would be better, but now I see I'm wrong. I'm actually making a joystick.

So to heck with handlebars - anyone have a joystick without a big loose dead-zone that could support a set of cut down lightweight handlebars? And not too bulky. Something tells me there is a place for finding parts here in this forum heh.

[PL1]

How about a variation on the PVC "twisty grip" yoke?



I'm not sure if the version of the plans linked above address the concerns mentioned in this thread.   


Scott

[FALSE]

Bravo for the whole concept of doing an arcade cab for your won game. Very impressive!

[yotsuya]

Whatever you make - make it look NICE.

[DaredevilDave]

Bravo for the whole concept of doing an arcade cab for your won game. Very impressive!

Thank you! I can't believe I didn't think of it sooner.

I don't know if I can multi-quote at this forum:

yotsuya:
Whatever you make - make it look NICE.

Yes! I could make it work in a lot of ways but I want it to look slick and match the theme.

Using an existing stick would be cool if I can find one strong enough to support the bars. Having a return spring and enough tension is another challenge, due to the height and weight of the thing.

I just need to set my mind on it and start. First stop - a motorcycle shop, or junkyard if I can find one. I used to work at a MC shop. I need bars, throttle assembly, maybe levers too. Grips. Clamps/risers.

Then the clamps need to attach to a mount that I will most likely need to make. How, you ask? 

From that point and onward, it's a joystick. If I used one of the bearing assemblies pictured up the page then I'd be halfway there. I need to seat the bearings into a pipe though and I don't know if I can do that. What pipe is bearing-ready?

If I use the mountable bearings I will have a bigger unit. but then, depending on the return spring system I use, I may need the extra space for that anyways. Actually the throttle pot and linkage should go in there too, so maybe I CAN use the mountable (easier) bearings.

Please stop me if anyone more knowledgeable in these things knows that I am on the wrong track. I'm totally making this up as I go, and I'm not real experienced in this area.

I wonder if I should make a PVC mockup or if I should just go for it. I'm gonna think on it all.

[BigCurtis]

Ok, here are some diagrams along with a few pictures to go with them, even a short video of me dorkily rotating the mount if it will work....

First, these things are heavy - very, designed to take a beating in a Soviet arcades (speculation), you likely don't need to go this overkill, but the mechanics seem sound. I've excerpted an assembly diagram with a few things highlighted from the Beast Busters manual which we'll refer back to with the pictures.


On Mechanized Attack, there was a massive bolt through the control panel, which housed the rotation restrictor, MA used an actual light gun, so there were no potentiometers to consider, just busting the gun off the cabinet, and rotating it so far it binds the wiring - a big old mounting plate & that restrictor covered those events. Note you should ignore this, since it doesn't pertain to the Beast Busters diagram, but I took the picture and thought I'd share. An under panel rotation restrictor isn't a bad way to go as an option:


However, the Beast Busters gun isn't a light gun, but a potentiometer gun, and it's plate appears to have mounted directly the the control panel, with a cutout below allowing room for the side to side potentiometer (Red A), with the rotation restriction handled inside the, er,  handle, with a post and gap method (Blue A - both parts, the cut out area lower right diagram is restricted in rotation by the yellow post highlighted in the upper left Blue A area).

Some dimensions on the big old plate, also showing the "stick mounted" gear which controls the rotation potentiometer:



The bottom rotation gear:


In case anyone cares about the actual potentiometers being used:


And a shot with the potentiometer & gearing being re-mounted (Red A), the motion restriction is controlled by the side mounted restrictor denoted by Blue B on the diagram:




Here's the forward/back motion restrictor opposite the above:


Mounted to the bottom of the "stick" are the forward/back centering springs which connect to the mounting frame to keep the "stick" centered when not in use:


So, forward/back lean, and side to side rotation.

Finally, I think a mostly pointless video converted to animated gif of me demonstrating the bottom rotation restrictor


Let me know if you want other close ups, dimensions, etc... but I think that's a solid foundation for any yoke/handles.

Looking at the Paperboy service manual (oddly the first hit when I googled: "paper boy service manual") the forward/back lean gearing is handled, er, up at the handle, instead of the base. Parts on hand and specific final design of yours would influence where exactly you handle that gearing/potentiometer.




Hope that helps.

[DaredevilDave]

Hope that helps.

Nope.

What? Of course, holy crap that is beyond what I expected! Thank you so much!  I see a lot of interesting stuff. Lottsa gears! I'm going to study this.

I was working on this. It is a picture of the bars leaning over so I, and you, can see which parts will move and which will not. The red line thing is a bad attempt at a throttle cable. it will snake down from the grip into the throttle box thing.



Throttle box thing:



The red throttle cable goes into the box and pulls a lever (blue) which turns the pot (black thing). A spring snaps it back when the throttle is dropped. The two skinny cylinders are stoppers for the lever. The lever will NOT be supported solely by the pot. That's actually a tricky part.

This box moves with the handlebars.

Hmmm come to think of it, if I'm using a throttle cable I could have the linkage in the same box as the steering assembly (coming up). Unlike the string that I used the first time I tested this, a throttle cable can be pulled around without affecting the linkage.

That would look MUCH better. What was I thinking? Too lazy to make a new rendering.

Our next contestant (below) is the steering assembly. The red rod is the axle/pivot point for the bars. It turns with the handlebars and supports the weight of the bars. This is the load bearing area. The rod runs through two bearings that are seated in mounts. The bearings come already seated in the housings. These are pretty heavy duty and can handle the job, probably just short of forever.

The red bar turns the pot. The bar clamps into the bearings so it shouldn't slip, either while rotating or pushing it toward the pot. If there's a problem I may buy a set of cheap plastic gears to reach the pot. I can make a guard to protect the pot too.



This box is connected to the mount system I've already built (in my head).

Below: the bars mounted on the cabinet. I can get rid of the upper box for the throttle, as I mentioned. I will fabricate this box out of plastic (ABS?) or I dunno yet, but it won't look like a box.  Could I 3D print it? Maybe I can add a number plate and hide it all behind that.



Hmm I could use a clamp to mount the vertical arm to the red steering shaft. Kinda like one of these, but one end is part of the vertical shaft, and the other claps around the axle (red rod).



I'm making a pvc throttle and connecting em to my PVC joystick handlebars so I can have the full effect. I gotta play it still while I build this thing!

Cool thing: The Motocross track level is hard (the game wasn't made for that kind of,riding really) , so much that I removed it as a necessary level to complete the in-game tours. BUT after playing with the joystick bars and controlling the throttle, I was able to blast through it, and I added the track back to the tours. It was way better!