Scratch *Fight Like A Girl* MVC Clone

[nanoflower]

I did a laminate cut test today. I was quite worried about how my saw would handle the job.
The first few cuts almost brought me to my knees - the laminate chipped  (not badly, but enough to annoy me)   

Spend some time scratching my head trying to figure out how to get around this problem - I don't like the idea of using the router as Martijn did to do the angled cuts, so I had to figure something out.
All kinds of things was tried: extra masking tape, different saw blade heights and so on...all with the same unsatisfying result.

Several cuts later I cracked the nut.
The laminate has to be scored backwards by 1 1/2mm and on top of that the cut also has to be made backwards - moving the saw in the opposite direction as the blade is going seems to work just fint.
Below is an example of a PERFECT laminate cut 




With that out of the way I decided to make a few spacer templates for the battons.
Hopefully I will find time to get them fitted tomorrow

[nordemoniac]

Tape + cutting from the back is usually how I've avoided chipping with a circular saw. But different laminate types and adhesives makes them behave differently.
Clamping scrap wood on the laminated side usually does the trick as well, can also be used for cutting acrylic plates, sandwich it between scrap wood.

[nanoflower]

Tape + cutting from the back is usually how I've avoided chipping with a circular saw. But different laminate types and adhesives makes them behave differently.
Clamping scrap wood on the laminated side usually does the trick as well, can also be used for cutting acrylic plates, sandwich it between scrap wood.

Thank you for the tips. I actually tried most of what you suggest, except cutting from below.
My issues may also relate to impatience.  I started cutting 10 mins. after the laminate was glued on. I think I'll give it some more time to set and ensure it's properly pressed / j-rolled on before I make the real cuts

[nanoflower]

Finally got the battons fitted. It took more time that I had expected, and on top of that I made a small mistake 

For some reason I managed to fit the bottom batton (on the left profile) too high up, this caused the two longest battons to almost touch.
Luckily I realised this in time, and I was able to pull off the lower batton and move it down, before the "No More Nails" glue had set.
That left me with a gap between the bottom and lower back batton. I cut a small piece of wood to fill that in -figured it would be a good idea as most of the weight will be distributed through the base of the cab.

I didn't glue the battons that will be holding the LDC and the the plexi as they may require some tweaking later on.

[Martijn]

Adding batons first and then the panels with laminate can result into the panels not making perfect flush contact with each other.

When you add the panels there could be space between then.

[nanoflower]

Adding batons first and then the panels with laminate can result into the panels not making perfect flush contact with each other.

When you add the panels there could be space between then.

I made some templates to ensure the batton distance is correct.
I can see what you mean though, hopefully it will work out

[Martijn]

i did the same, but i had to move some over or just use metal L brackets(the one below the cp) , I needed more space on the sides for the cp mounting.

Next time i will add panel after panel and build my way around. Some angled panels needed a 45 degree cut on the inside, otherwise there was not enough space.

Just take your time. Make the panels. mount them. see whats wrong and adapt each panel unit it flush all over.

[nanoflower]

i did the same, but i had to move some over or just use metal L brackets(the one below the cp) , I needed more space on the sides for the cp mounting.

Next time i will add panel after panel and build my way around. Some angled panels needed a 45 degree cut on the inside, otherwise there was not enough space.

Just take your time. Make the panels. mount them. see whats wrong and adapt each panel unit it flush all over.

Yea you are right; easy does it - I have to admit you got me a little worried there for a while
I will take my time and try not to rush things. I'm thinking I need to get the cab up and standing to better get an idea about what's going on.

Did you cut the coin door and the volume panel at 90 degrees leaving a gap on the inside like this?

[Martijn]

That panel i didnt do. but on the backside i did, because the angles are mirrored then.

[nanoflower]

Autumn has hit my part of the word and that means rain...never ending rain

Spend a few hours in the basement today sawing out the LDC shelf.
The TV is oddly thick at the bottom and then narrows down at the top, so I had to add 2 spacer bolts to get it flush with the MDF plate.

[Martijn]

Strong will to build you have. I am happy i got mine done before the rain started. Looking sharp!

[nanoflower]

Strong will to build you have. I am happy i got mine done before the rain started. Looking sharp!

Thanks mate
Yea I'm kinda jealous about that, and annoyed with my self that I didn't start sooner - you have made a lot of progress in a short time!
Luckily I have most of my MDF panels roughly cut out so I guess I'll be living in the basement for a while. The most annoying thing is the lack of space. I'm thinking on going on a diet as I can barely squeeze my self past the work benches and the walls 

[nanoflower]

Sawed out the baseplate today.

I wanted a solution that allowed me to mount both leveling feet and castor wheels.
The idea is to have the cab on wheels during the build (easy rotation and access to all sides) and then replace them with the leveling feet later on.

This is what I came up with:

[Martijn]

will it hold the cabinet? the wheels are mounted in half routed out panels.

[nanoflower]

will it hold the cabinet? the wheels are mounted in half routed out panels.

If a cabinet falls in a living room and no one is around to hear it, does it make a sound?"

Only time will tell, they should hold though...hopefully (dang, now you got me thinking again )
I countersunk the leveling feet so they are only there for stability purposes and will not be carrying the entire weight, perhaps I'll stick to those 

[Martijn]

any updates?

[nanoflower]

any updates?

Hi Martijn

-thanks for keeping an eye out

No major updates, I did laminate 5 of my panels last week before going on a 1 week family vacation to Spain (came home this Saturday).

The lamination process didn't go as smooth as I had wanted, and I believe it's because of the temperature drops.
The first two insides was laminated during the last weeks of the summer when the weather was excellent and temp's extremely hot. This softened up the laminate and made it much more pliable.

I couldn't get get the laminate to stick properly to the edges of the panels this time no matter how much I rolled it down (and believe me I really went to town).
I'm worried that small dust particles got caught underneath when I routed off the overhang as it it has begun lifting it self up a bit, and that these particles are preventing the full bond.

The panels are all going on the back side of the cab, so on one will notice if everything isen't perfectly flush (the problem is; I will)
So now I'm debating with my self whether I should redo them or not.

Perhaps the spray-on adhesive was not the best approach - which contact cement did you use again, and what type of roller? (foam, mohair etc.)

The initial thought is to proceed and get the cab up and standing, and then determine if the problem is as big as I make it out to be.
I'll 'hire' my friend within the next couple of weeks as it's probably a good idea with an extra set of hands while putting it together.

[rablack97]

What spray on adhesive did your use there are different strengths, I use spray on as well and have had no issue with the edges.

it is advised that you spray a little heavy on the edges? Did you let it cure for a few mins before you trimmed?

[nanoflower]

What spray on adhesive did your use there are different strengths, I use spray on as well and have had no issue with the edges.

it is advised that you spray a little heavy on the edges? Did you let it cure for a few mins before you trimmed?

Hi rablack97

Yes I let it set for a while before flush trimming the edges; maybe not as long as I should have.
The glue I used was bought in a hardware store called "Biltema" who carry their own brand.


What brand of glue do you use/recommend?

[rablack97]

3M has good spray on adhesive, not sure if that's available in your area.

You have to ensure the adhesive is recommended for laminate application.

[Martijn]

i use bison kit. universal contact glue.

https://www.gamma.nl/assortiment/bison-kit-contactlijm-universeel-2-5-liter/p/B456993

Really strong stuff. i need 2 cans for a cabinet to laminate it. Description also notes that it works really well with formica. I think that is or almost the same as HPL Laminate.

i poor the glue on the mdf, use a wallpaper rubber roller to apply. then i poor the laminate sheet and role that one. the laminate goes fast and easy to roll. the mdf drinks the glue.
then when its nice and even and a little dry i drop the sheet on the mdf and use my hands to apply pressure.

You get 1 shot to put the sheet on correctly. its almost instant joined. With a big crt cabinet with a cut to size laminate sheet for the sides this can be tricky.
You feel the cold of the glue working through the laminate when you apply pressure with your hands!

Pressuring along all the sides then let it dry for 10 minutes and i can route off the excess material. 

[nanoflower]

i use bison kit. universal contact glue. (...)Really strong stuff. i need 2 cans for a cabinet to laminate it (...)

Thanks Martijn

I took your word on that and ordered 2 cans today from https://www.bullstore.nl/bison-kit-2-5-liter

It was a bit expensive though (€ 89,13) but as this cannot be bought in Denmark where I live and as shipping fees was included it wasn't too bad. I did look into getting some 3M ScotchWeld glue, but that would have ment no X-mas presents for my children. 2 Liters of their sticky stuff cost the same as 5 Liters of the Bison glue   

You mentioned you used a rubber wallpaper roller to smoothen out the glue - Do you mean a j-roller type one like this one?

[Martijn]

Whoa! I hope it wont disappoint!



i got something like this. cheapest. filling is like a sponge. and the surface is smooth like plastic.