New Joystick - <insert name here>

[jimmer]

After spending a good year thinking about and designing various joysticks, it's time I got on with it and launched a product. But there are still some aspects to finalise and I'm pondering a Kickstarter to, well, kickstart the product with some pre-orders. So I thought I'd see what people here have to say first.

I realise that a month ago a grommet-centred leaf-switched stick would have been a lot more exciting, but that's just the way things go.

And if I add that it won't be any cheaper for US residents than the competition then there's a risk I'll lose all of your interest, so just to keep you listening:

############ FREE JOYSTICKS  #############

Anyone who makes a valuable contribution*, eg an idea that I use, or points out a flaw that I correct, or requests a feature that I incorporate, gets a free leaf-switched stick. The stick has no name yet, so there's a definite free stick opportunity.   

* As judged by me.  Just listing a load of joystick features in the hope that I adopt one of them doesn't qualify, but if you put a convincing case for some feature that I'm not considering then that would.



So here's the concept:

Choice of switch type: non-snap micro, leaf, optical (maybe snap-micro, maybe inductive or hall-effect later)

Swappable handles: Change the visible shaft and knob  (maybe without underside access)

Choice of mounting plate size/pattern: for if you are replacing an existing stick

Swappable restrictor gates (large variety): these will be screw on at first, later I'll look into a push on design.

This stick will allow you to change from a 30mm ball, 10mm above the panel with 2way restriction (Defender) to a 38mm ball, 25mm above the panel, with circle gate (Robotron) to a mid-height 35mm ball 4way diamond.


Manufacturing Method:

I will CNC the main body myself, this allows me to do whatever variations I want without dealing with suppliers. Everything else attaches to the main body.


Pricing:

Ballpark figures for UK market are $50 grey micro version, $60 leaf switches, $80 optical.
For the US market I don't know what to offer, maybe the optical base unit at $40 (just add Rollie Flash @ $30)


Give me your thoughts. 

Should I do a kickstarter?

Is this one product, or is each switch type a different joystick (and name) ?

My poor effort at naming so far has come up with: grommetstick grey, grommetstick leaf, and grommetstick flash

How desirable would above the panel stick change be? compared to having to put a screwdriver on the bottom end (note: gate change will require below panel access so you might be under there anyway)



Here's a pic of the grey version, it's smaller than a JLF but that wasn't a goal it just happened. The leaf version will necessarily be wider at the switches, but maybe less wide than you think 

[adder]

The stick has no name yet....

if the stick is going to be highly customizable, perhaps consider calling it something like:

evo-stick
mod-stik
joy-mod
trans-stick (as in 'transition')

or u could go all out with 'chameleon stick' 
chameleon definition:  "subject to quick or frequent change especially in appearance"

[yotsuya]

I'd need to see a video or two of it in action before I committed any $$$ to a Kickstarter.

[Louis Tully]

.

[opt2not]

The Jimmer.  DONE!

[Mitkraft]

The stick has no name yet....

transtick (as in 'transition')

I highly recommend you stay away from this name.  It's an entirely different "product" 

[Vigo]

Yeah, this joystick sounds like a good video of it in action would speak volumes. Billy Mays ]"but that's not all" kinda thing come to mind when you talk about the versatility of this joystick.

As for name, I would go against the grain and avoid adding the word "Stick" or "stik" at the end. Kinda is the "Cade" of joystick names now. I tried to think of something Grommet themed for a name, but all that comes to mind is Wallace, cheese and Techno-trousers. You can shorten grommetstick to GS and toss in something flashy with it. Like GS Commander. GS custom or GS Trannystick. 

Also, I think the question of mod lighting on these would be a highly demanded feature. If you could make it easy to light, it would be an awesome feature. Maybe offer hollow shafts, or if Nephasth doesn't object, maybe make an easy nephring style edge light plate for easy lighting of the base.

[yotsuya]

The "GS Throwback - Play Your Games Like It's 1985"

[Vigo]

The "GS Throwback - Play Your Games Like It's 1985"

Ooh! I am digging that!

[jimmer]

The "GS Throwback - Play Your Games Like It's 1985"

There's something about throwback that I like.  And combined with a tag line as well, an all round good effort.


How about some rubbery ideas?   

Rubber Joy 
Rubberised Tranny Knob
..... oh dear, these aren't working.

the Rubbery Switcheroo

[EMDB]

RetroStick 

[Le Chuck]

Holler when you figure out how to go from a round restrictor to a diamond restrictor from the top of the panel like a magstik only not sucky or can have it automated.   

[keilmillerjr]

LickStik

[jimmer]

Holler when you figure out how to go from a round restrictor to a diamond restrictor from the top of the panel like a magstik only not sucky or can have it automated.

There was a thread on that not long ago. 8way to 4way ie just 2 gates, is the quick hit for someone to design as it covers the majority of requirements.  I have some ideas, but may need to work with someone who knows software/servos so it works from the front end or Mame. Or it could just toggle from a button press.

Myself, I like different 8way patterns for different games, and I'll be offering those with this joystick and for other joysticks (LS32, JLF,JLW).

I've also got a Happ Super / Xarcade  leaf conversion mod which takes a multitude of restrictor gates, that'll be on sale soon when I've finalised the leaf design.  And a restrictor mod that uses the snap micros.

[deadmoney5]

Holler when you figure out how to go from a round restrictor to a diamond restrictor from the top of the panel like a magstik only not sucky or can have it automated.

this

[yotsuya]

The "GS Throwback - Play Your Games Like It's 1985"

There's something about throwback that I like.  And combined with a tag line as well, an all round good effort.


How about some rubbery ideas?   

Rubber Joy 
Rubberised Tranny Knob
..... oh dear, these aren't working.

the Rubbery Switcheroo

Give your product a name that will make people want it. You go to Burger King to order a Whopper, not a "Meat Patty on Bread with Onions".

"GS Throwback" evokes a callback to what made games great. Your eyes tell you it's a joystick. Your hands (assuming it works the way you say it does) prove to you that it feels different that what's out there. The gameplay proves that it's an innovative product. Give it a "Wow" name, not something that is basically shorthand for "Joystick With Rubber Parts".

Doing some channeling here. All I know about marketing I learned from:

[jimmer]

You are right. 

I think

But, 'jimmer's grommet leaf joystick' does get straight to the point. And my  thought is if you type Grommet Joystick into Google, then a product called jimmer's Grommet Joystick has a better chance of a good ranking.  But maybe tags, and links, and whatnot are all that's needed.

Probably ebay search is more important than google???

[yotsuya]

You are right. 

I think

But, 'jimmer's grommet leaf joystick' does get straight to the point. And my  thought is if you type Grommet Joystick into Google, then a product called jimmer's Grommet Joystick has a better chance of a good ranking.  But maybe tags, and links, and whatnot are all that's needed.

Probably ebay search is more important than google???

[yotsuya]

In all seriousness, go look at the names of the joysticks GroovyGameGear sells. THAT'S Marketing.

None of them are called "Randy's Awesome Leaf-Joysticks with Rad Balls on Top".

[deadmoney5]

Grom-Stik

 

[jimmer]

In all seriousness, go look at the names of the joysticks GroovyGameGear sells. THAT'S Marketing.

None of them are called "Randy's Awesome Leaf-Joysticks with Rad Balls on Top".

You should check out www.Randys_Arcade_Shop.com, sales of "Red ball top joystick" are through the roof.

But also in all seriousness. If you bring out a product that meets a market need, and give it a cool name, how important was the cool name in generating sales?  No-one sees the counter-factual sales figures for if it had a boring name.

Remember I came for opnions, including on a good name, so that implies I think a cool name has some value. Either that or it's a cheap trick to get people thinking about my joystick.

[ChanceKJ]

It would be nice, if possible to be able to light these with LED's from the base of the shaft like with the LEDs PA sells for Neph rings, or with built in Neph rings, or the little PA Tropical mood light LEDs I used for the stick on my FLYNN build. Lit ball tops look a little tacky IMO. and it would be nice to see some way to add LEDs as a drop in kit with an LED pack that isn't too specialty.

[ChanceKJ]

Oh and...

Next-Stic

SicStick

X-Joy

JoyStix

CtrlStick

The Leaf

LeafStik

AttackStick

ClassStic

[jimmer]

It would be nice, if possible to be able to light these with LED's from the base of the shaft like with the LEDs PA sells for Neph rings, or with built in Neph rings, or the little PA Tropical mood light LEDs I used for the stick on my FLYNN build. Lit ball tops look a little tacky IMO. and it would be nice to see some way to add LEDs as a drop in kit with an LED pack that isn't too specialty.

I'm not really up on LED stuff, and I kind of dismissed LED knobs for the mk1 as it complicates handle swapping.( But there will be the option of fixed length hollow shafts )

I found your lighted LED ring on your Flynn build, that's as much as I know about Neph rings.

I could make an additional plate that fits onto my joystick and into a simple round routed pocket. Have you got a link to suitable PA LED items?  What plastic is used for these rings ?

[Nephasth]

Call it the JimmerJammer.

Your diagram resembles Chance's joystick lighting, which provides a similar effect as a NephRing. Imagine a joystick base plate made from clear acrylic, this gets sandwiched between the stick and CP, leds get placed along the edge of the acrylic.

Here's a link: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,132983.msg1368093.html#msg1368093

[jimmer]

Got it, so Neph rings are clear acrylic plates lit from the edges.

I could make those depending on the surface finish required on the edges.

I quite like the idea of embedding the led in translucent material.  I've got some 6mm sheet for marquees that I could have a play with, if only I had some LEDs 

I could also do a combo of clear acrylic with a translucent diffuser at the stick. Would need testing though I'm not sure how well the light would pass from material to material.

I guess I need to get clued up on RGB LEDs.

[jimmer]

Call it the JimmerJammer.

hmmm, that sounds familiar.  Probably because it's my username on another forum

[ChanceKJ]

I was thinking a slightly thicker mounting plate that had channels routed into it, you could lay in a a couple of LEDs, then a Neph ring would lay flush overtop. This way you wouldn't have to bore two sizes of hole for each stick like I did. The Neph ring layer would just sandwich betwen the stick and the cp top. And the LEDs would reside in the plate of the stick.

I should do a Sketchup diagram. Hmmm,

Here's the LEDs:
http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/led-pushbuttons/92-tropical-mood-light-rgb-5vdc-led.html

There were other ones I was thinking about that I've seen that were mounted on a ribbon cable. They would work best.

[mvolke1]

If you made it 4-8 way switchable from top of the control panel, and it was leaf switch, I'd be in. I have the Ultimarc Mag-Stick Plus, which is nice, but it would be cool to see another one on the market. Also, the Mag-Stick is not a leaf-switch joystick.

I work in marketing, and would be happy to help you out. Just PM me.

[jimmer]

I was thinking a slightly thicker mounting plate that had channels routed into it, you could lay in a a couple of LEDs, then a Neph ring would lay flush overtop. This way you wouldn't have to bore two sizes of hole for each stick like I did. The Neph ring layer would just sandwich betwen the stick and the cp top. And the LEDs would reside in the plate of the stick.

Easy to do, but would you want the light ring that deep on wood? 19mm away from the surface.   You went to the effort of embedding your rings when a neph ring would have been simpler, or maybe that was to do with not shortening the ball height?

How thick is the clear/translucent plate? I'm not mad about adding the extra thickness to the wood panel because of what it does to the geometry but 4 or 5mm isn't too bad.   For the metal panel it's fine because it moves the geometry closer to the wood/average, in fact I was considering thicker mounting plates for the metal panel either as standard or a choice.

[jimmer]

If you made it 4-8 way switchable from top of the control panel, and it was leaf switch, I'd be in. I have the Ultimarc Mag-Stick Plus, which is nice, but it would be cool to see another one on the market. Also, the Mag-Stick is not a leaf-switch joystick.

Yeah, everyone wants that   But that's a different product, or a later evolution.

My main interest is swappable control panels rather than switchable sticks. I only started desiging sticks because there wasn't a grommet stick or a good 2way available.

[ChanceKJ]

I agree with the switchable being a later evolution.  just remember: "there were no cameras on the first iPad".

However, you still want to solve a couple cool needs with the first gen. Like lighting. And everyone has a hollow shaft with a lit balltop (looks lame, IMO  ). This way you can sell the stick in two flavours, With or without the "Neph-Ring" drop in kit.   With my design, you get that thicker mounting plate, however the new lighting works way better... 

The ring integrates into the plate, so it blocks light bleed to nearby transparent buttons.  The ring doesn't affect the height of the plate either.  And now it's also an actual "ring".

The ring would need to be a scuffed translucent, instead of completely transparent in order to spread the light. Kinda like the inner part around the joystick hole on the current Neph Ring plates.

The LED ribbons would be held in place by a couple different ideas i have. A screw-in block or just a small peg that protrudes through the middle of the ribbon. what ever is easiest. (i didn't draw that in the design, so you'd have to imagine it.)

[ChanceKJ]

The "Neph-Kit" would include: Two LED's (three if you want to include a spare), the internal Neph-Ring, and a clear dust washer.  You could also sell it as an aftermarket drop in kit.


You could also make an accessory that was a second riser plate layer that mounts between the joystick plate and the surface, that had a way to have an under-mounted hidden dust washer for those metal CP's.  Just a thought.

[Nephasth]

The "Neph-Kit" would include: Two LED's (three if you want to include a spare), the internal Neph-Ring, and a clear dust washer.  You could also sell it as an aftermarket drop in kit.

Don't forget to pay royalties...

[yotsuya]

Make sure you have an unlit option, too. Not everyone wants a lit panel, especially if you're a purist.

[ChanceKJ]

Make sure you have an unlit option, too. Not everyone wants a lit panel, especially if you're a purist.

....This way you can sell the stick in two flavours, With or without the "Neph-Ring" drop in kit....

...Yeah, ..thats what... I .. said...  ?

 

Don't forget to pay royalties...

Or call it something else 

(haha, just trying to give credit for the origin of the idea...  )

[jimmer]

You didn't answer my question directly, but it looks like you are happy with the ring being all the way below the wood, ie 19mm down.

I guess this is about providing a glow in the hole, rather than an uplighter shining on the ball ? I will have a play with some LEDs and different materials.

The grommet is positioned inside the plate thickness which means the thickness has to increase, also means the wires will probably come in from the short side (on a narrow plate version). But it also means there is hardly any clearance required so the light material can extend in close to the shaft eg:

[jimmer]

Quick update.

There will be two flavours: Japanese and American

Japanese will be smaller with 9mm shaft showing and 35mm balltop.

American will be a bit larger, look like a wico from above the panel, and wil be able to be tuned to feel like a wico (remember there will be variation of restrictors and grommet stiffness)


Also I've abandoned the above panel handle swap, because I figured you will nearly always be changing the restrictor too, and that's a below panel operation. Handle will not even be in two parts, it's a complete swap out, but there won't be any springs or e-clips to fly off.  I think this means you will be able to swap LED lit handles relatively easily.

[yotsuya]

I was just thinking about this right now. What's your plan for the grommet?

[jimmer]

I was just thinking about this right now. What's your plan for the grommet?

Stick a shaft through it 


Built my first prototype today with the leafs I plan to use.  Pretty sweet. Waiting on some Wicos and a Korean stick to compare the feel to. It looks good too, but I don't want to reveal it quite yet, you can guess what it look like though from the earlier photos.

No-one commented so far on how I should launch this. Should I do a Kickstarter?

The advantages I see would be the chance to create some buzz but maybe I missed the boat there. And to get some confidence that they will sell. As a first timer into this market place it's really hard to know how many to make for the first batch. 


Here's a picture showing the 2 sizes I mentioned. I need to find a bat top for the American version.

[yotsuya]

I meant what grommet were you going to use,  smart-ass.

I'd start with a Kickstarter. That  you can gauge interest and build capital without being out anything up front.  Also, shoot some video.  I want to see it in action.

[jimmer]

For my prototypes I'm using off the shelf vibration mounts, same external size as a wico grommet.

I'll need to get some custom made if I go with wico size for the American stick. That was the plan but now it doesn't sound so clever. It would be way easier to use just one grommet size. And if I'm selling a Wico replacement,  I don't really want to be helping people refurbish their Wicos!

[Nocturnaloner]

Hey jimmer, will this project ever come back to life?

[jimmer]

Here's the project update:

I went around in circles on the design, finally getting bored and deciding on a 2part swap handle concept that doesn't involve removing clips or springs (ie nothing to drop or lose). This was influenced by being very into Defender and Robotron I wanted to build a stick that could make an acceptable (to me) 2 stick Multi-williams panel.

I built various prototypes, they worked.

Then I lost impetus for several reasons. 1. Dominux came out, which answered the need for a decent grommet leaf stick (and on price I can't compete in USA but for Europe mine would cost about the same)   2. I've come down firmly on swap panels as the best solution for different controls (with my panel system it's easier to swap the panel than swap a restrictor and handle).  3. I've been woriking on other things. 4. Sourcing nice balltops in low numbers is hard, and with this design I really need to supply solid handles (the alternative is to let the user to screw and glue his own ball or bat to the shaft)  5. I have a slight worry about the screw together handle because it's not fail safe, if you don't do it up tight enough it could unscrew in use (that said, my left hand Robo stick hasn't been touched for a year now and I don't remember doing it up particularly tight)  If you were about to do a Robotron world record attempt you could just put some threadlock on it and do it up a bit tighter than normal.

Here's a few photos. I made a round version for the optical in honour of the p360.  Not shown is an option with a boss and little dust washer that makes it very easy to do an underpanel washer in wood panel.

[paigeoliver]

The market wants one thing.

Wico joysticks.

Just build wicos and you will be swimming in orders. All their patents expired years ago.

Get an NOS Wico leaf stick and copy it.
Then get an wico microswitch stick and copy the parts that vary from the leaf one.

Sell wicos and the world will beat a path to your door. Make them exactly the same, from the handle to the grommet to switches to the base. If it isn't an exact copy then the real game restorers aren't going to buy them and they are a way larger market than the mame guys. (Mame guys average like 1.5 machines each, real game collectors are most commonly around 20 games).

[Nocturnaloner]

Those look great, and it'd be a shame if they never got beyond prototypes, but economic reality is what it is.  paigeoliver is dead on about the Wico repros.  The guy who is making accurate grommet repros is not running out of orders any time soon, and used leaf sticks are selling on ebay for the same prices as the Dominux8, or more.

[emphatic]

Never seen this thread before!


Posted from my portable device using Tapatalk

[jimmer]

Repro wico grommets weren't widely/cheaply available when I started this project. If they were I might have built something wico compatible. But anyway, I wanted to add something wico didn't have - the swappable restrictor. Also I wanted to be able to configure a smaller overall package than the wico to suit fightsticks.

I will have a think about making a base that takes the wico grommet and handle (Repro handles were available last time I looked) But it wouldn't be a molded base that accepts molded switches (which aren't available). Who would buy this? Do the restrictors wear out in non-arcade use? I can see the diamonds wearing slowly out of shape but how many users would be bothered by that?

I could make new top parts of the base (the grommmet holder/gate) rather than the switch holder, but they wouldn't have metal inserts for the gate.

[dezmond]

For switching the stick out, I would like to see the C-Clip gone and use a push and twist lock of some sorts.

Would make life a lot easier if you wanted to have a shorter or longer shaft.

Just a thought 

[Nocturnaloner]

I will have a think about making a base that takes the wico grommet and handle (Repro handles were available last time I looked) But it wouldn't be a molded base that accepts molded switches (which aren't available). Who would buy this?

People interested in restoring classic arcade games would buy it, in addition to people who want an authentic classic feel in their MAME cabinets.  Restorationists in particular, want accurate reproductions.  Understandably, you want to create something new, that's where the fun is, but accurate repros would have a larger market.

Do the restrictors wear out in non-arcade use? I can see the diamonds wearing slowly out of shape but how many users would be bothered by that?

People are still using 30-40 year old restrictors to this day.  If anything, the fact that they were designed for arcade use makes them more than durable enough for hobbyist use.

[jimmer]

People interested in restoring classic arcade games would buy it, in addition to people who want an authentic classic feel in their MAME cabinets.  Restorationists in particular, want accurate reproductions.  Understandably, you want to create something new, that's where the fun is, but accurate repros would have a larger market.

I can already make something that looks and feels like a wico from above the panel, so what does it matter what it looks like below? That's not a question for you in particular, it's more a question for everyone that would by a repro wico.

You have got me thinking again. What I will do is make some wico intechangeable parts and see what people think of them. The grommet holder piece will look similar to wico, the switch holder module will look like what I've made before. Handles are available, but I could source them myself if it suits. Grommets are available.

[Xiaou2]

Im with Paige on this one.

 WICO Repros are highly desired.   Both for Classic Restoration, as well as use in Authentic Emulation machines  (especially Robotron, arguably one of the best games ever made).

 While people with older Wico sticks might be able to restore them with offered parts...  thats not really a bad thing.   Realistically, you would be making profit off of each part.  It might actually be more profitable that way.

 But either way... most older wicos will need at very least.. all leafs replaced, a new grommet, and a new handle.   The balltops are usually scratched up... and shafts usually corroded.   Grommets may be stiff / cracking..  and the leafs springs have fatigued too much.   All that pretty much leaves.. is the Base shell.

 While most wico 8ways do fairly well without too much wear on the top edge of the base... the 4ways did seems to wear out after some years.   IMO,  the Bally Midway Pacman sticks were superior for 4way operation.   They have at least one replaceable restrictor part... and the thick steel top restrictor takes a very long time, in an busy arcade, for any wear to come into play.   If you remake this stick and its parts... you can sell its parts to restore the other sticks that used them... such as the Trigger sticks (seen on Tron, Discs of Tron, Satans Hollow, and many more classics).

 I think you should not really concern yourself with "fight-sticks"...  because Leafs are not really good in fighting game applications.  And if you try to remedy this using different mechanical means... then it ruins the classic wico feel that we are looking for.

 There are multi-thousands of classic arcade machines in basements and bar-cades all over the world...  and sadly, many are fitted with semi-working, destroyed, or sub-standard replacement sticks.

 Add to this the multi-thousands of Emulation fans... whom also want to play classics with the Authentic feel that they Remember and Love (as well as those new to this... and still wish to have accurate feel / control)...  and you would have so many orders that you might have trouble keeping up with them.

 Wicos are Proven with long Lasting quality, and outstanding feel.    No other stick feels and reacts like a true Wico.   And any stick that looks similar.. will be immediately questioned with extreme prejudice.   Rightly so.   Why mess with near perfection?  People know what they really want... and are begging, pleading, and very willing... to pay for it.

 I do also vaguely remember the Wico balltop microswitch version that Paige pointed out... as being really nice too  (I used to manage an Arcade, and saw / repaired pretty much every controller made).  Sadly, I never got to pick one up for myself... so Im just going by a 18? year old memory.   I recall they were far more durable than the Happs sticks of the time.  They also felt much better, due to the rubber grommet.  I also loved the balltop grip (and look) for most games.   I wouldnt use them for Robotron, but I think they might be a nice replacement for the happ comps (for fighters).

 Anyways,  I think its time we kickstarted accurate Repos of classic controllers .. and maybe other things too...

[dmckean]

I agree with X2. I haven't used any other stick that felt and behaved quite like a WICO.

[Cornchip]

 If you could find NOS Wico's (leaf and micro sw), what do you figure they'd be worth?. Might help define a price point to see the viability in a project like this.

[Nocturnaloner]

If you could find NOS Wico's (leaf and micro sw), what do you figure they'd be worth?. Might help define a price point to see the viability in a project like this.

Complete NOS joysticks (and I don't know if they were ever packaged that way, as a unit with base, grommet, shaft, and switches) would see competitive bidding these days.  With used joysticks going for 50 and up, complete NOS sticks could fetch $100 and up.  That's for leaf switch sticks.  Microswitch would be lower.

[Nocturnaloner]

I can already make something that looks and feels like a wico from above the panel, so what does it matter what it looks like below? That's not a question for you in particular, it's more a question for everyone that would by a repro wico.

Have you ever restored a classic car?  The mindset here is very similar.  People who are restoring arcade machines would like them to be 'factory correct'.  That means that everything, inside and out, looks and functions like the original.  The only exception to that might be that if you made the base pieces with their built in restrictors out of a longer wearing modern material that otherwise looked the same, that would be great.

[jimmer]

I guessed that it was only likely to be the diamond that wore noticeably, if a circle gate grows a bit no-ones going to notice.

I'm going to start by making a leaf module and an optical module that are direct replacements for the wico leaf switch module (the optical will come with a new black actuator but it'll be the same size as the wico part).  I've already sketched them, if nothing gets in the way I should be able to get them cut and tested this weekend.

[Nocturnaloner]

I guessed that it was only likely to be the diamond that wore noticeably, if a circle gate grows a bit no-ones going to notice.

I'm going to start by making a leaf module and an optical module that are direct replacements for the wico leaf switch module (the optical will come with a new black actuator but it'll be the same size as the wico part).  I've already sketched them, if nothing gets in the way I should be able to get them cut and tested this weekend.

I don't think you'll have any problems finding volunteers to help you test those.  I'll even pay for shipping.