A little help from furniture builders? Non arcade related woodworking project.

[Louis Tully]

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[dkersten]

Looks like it will work..

A few comments though:
1) 4x4 legs are great for a workbench, but kind of overkill for a simple table/desk.  Might want to mill them down a little or they will be heavy and look really beefy.  I assume you will use pine stud grade 4x4's, so look for stuff with long straight grain and not a lot of knots, and don't use anything with a large knot right on a corner, or you will likely have a crooked leg after a few months or a year.  Stud grade lumber is not very dry, so if you have the luxury, get it somewhere warm and dry and let it acclimate for a while before working it.  I would let it sit for at least a month in a warm dry place, then use a jointer and planer to mill it down about a quarter of an inch all around, this would give you a better look, be nice and straight, and be less likely to twist or warp.

2) The tops being plywood, how are you planning to finish the edges?  Even if you go with a veneer plywood, those edges are gonna be rough.  Are you planning to use a veneer edge banding?  T-molding?  Or just paint? 

3) Plywood is pretty stable so you can just directly attach the top to the skirt and not have to worry about movement.  If you were using a solid wood for the top and skirt you would want to use some kind of fastener or joinery that allows for movement.  But if you are using a veneer plywood and want to finish the top without having to fill screw holes, I would recommend getting some "figure 8" fasteners to attach the top.  They do allow for movement even though you probably won't need it, and they are quick and easy.  I use a forstner bit on the skirt to countersink them, and attach them at about 12" intervals. 
Here is what I am talking about: https://www.google.com/search?q=figure+8+table+top+fastener&rlz=1T4GZAZ_enUS423US423&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=ioYIVOaHAeX5iwLfh4CoBw&ved=0CCIQsAQ&biw=1280&bih=600

Good luck!

[shponglefan]

^ I agree that 4x4's are way overkill for a simple table/desk type setup.  You can usually get pre-made metal table legs, either brand new from a hardware store or salvaged from old furniture that people are tossing out.  The latter would help with the budget side of things.

[dkersten]

and be more stable.. I have seen 4x4's from Home Depot or Lowes twist by 6 to 8 inches over a 4 foot section after drying out..

[yotsuya]

Not a fan of that diagonal support.

[JDFan]

Since you are doing a L-shape is it going into a specific corner of the room ? If so you could just run a 2x4 or 2x4 blocks spaced along the wall secured into the studs across the back wall and cut down on materials used by using the wall as support then just 3 or 4 legs to support the front.

[lamprey]

Agree with Yotsuya about the support. I've had several "modular" desks over the years (like office furniture) and all you really need to connect two surfaces together is a nice metal plate (or two or whatever makes sense). Although, you can certainly use a leg where the two join, with a metal plate you don't really need that.

[dkersten]

^  And if you don't have a metal strap, just use some of the same material you are using for skirting.. if you continue the skirting from the short side into the skirt from the long side and use an L bracket right there, it will support it just fine (if it were hardwood just gluing it would be enough, but not with plywood, no strength in the end grain).  The long side skirt should just run all the way to the leg, not end at the joint between the sections either..

In other words, make one complete table and then an extension that connects to it.  The skirt will support the table where it joins so you won't need a leg there, as long as you tie the perpendicular skirts together.

[pbj]

This is what I bought in college:

http://www.officemax.com/office-furniture/tables/folding-tables/product-prod3360130

Tossed something similar to this on top:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Honey-Can-Do-8-Pair-2-Tier-Bamboo-Shoe-Shelf-SHO-01600/202518260


Done.

[PL1]

A couple of these 5-in x 1-13/16-in Nail Plates should work.




Scott

[Louis Tully]

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[yotsuya]

Now you're getting somewhere, bro. 

[dkersten]

much better..

You can get banding for the edges that irons on and works pretty darn well, but half round will work as would any trim that fits the side.  I have done a lot of projects where I cut a strip of plywood about 2-3 inches wide and double up the edge of the plywood top, then use a door casing or floor trim to trim off the sides.  If you are using 3/4" plywood, that gives you an inch and a half to attach whatever you want to cover it up. 

Frankly though, if he is gonna paint it, t-molding works really well too..

[yotsuya]

I love you, Louis (Nohomo). You come up with the jankiest stuff at first, but your thought process always takes you through to the end (that, and you get by with a little help from your BYOAC friends).

[PL1]

Not so sure about that half round.   

Why not use a router with a round-over bit, seal any voids in the plywood edge with wood filler, sand it smooth, stain, and finish with 2 or 3 coats of poly?

Also consider making it easy to disassemble for moving. (6 carriage bolts in diagram)

Of course, be sure that the two parts are separated before applying the coats of poly.   


Scott

[yotsuya]

Not so sure about that half round.   

Why not use a router with a round-over bit, seal any voids in the plywood edge with wood filler, sand it smooth, stain, and finish with 2 or 3 coats of poly?

I'm with Scotty. That was my first thought, as well.

[Louis Tully]

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[PL1]

Also consider making it easy to disassemble for moving. (6 carriage bolts in diagram)
Scott

We're on the same page with that. Detachable legs using bolts was the plan from the start. Those 3 holes in the 3rd picture above are a schloppy representation of where I was going to put them.   

That 2-axis 3-bolt pattern is even better.   

Turned the right way, you only need to use 3 carriage bolts to disassemble the desk instead of 6.   

If you're making the legs fully removable, mark a letter on both the leg and the adjoining 2x4 for easier re-assembly.
(different letter for each leg)


Scott

[Generic Eric]

I  have a C shaped desk at work that may give you some ideas.

The main part of the desk is joined to the remaining part by hidden L bracket.