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Author Topic: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences  (Read 25401 times)

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Sky25es

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Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« on: June 17, 2014, 06:12:55 pm »
Rollie Leaf Switch vs Ultimarc's Goldleaf vs GGG's Micro-Leaf Pushbuttons    :dunno
I don't know if this question has been made before but I searched the forum and couldn't find nothing convincing.
So what's the difference between these switches ? I mean, all of them are made to approach as much as possible the feel and behavior of real leaf switch buttons but how they compare to the real deal ?

(I know the Rollie's are true Leaf switches but how do they compare to the old school ones?)

PL1

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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #1 on: June 17, 2014, 06:20:04 pm »
Don't forget GGG's True-Leaf Pro.   ;D




Scott

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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #2 on: June 17, 2014, 06:32:53 pm »
Don't forget GGG's True-Leaf Pro.   ;D

Scott

Oops my bad.  :angel: And of course, GGG's True-Leaf Pro too.  ;)

Thanks Scott.

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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #3 on: June 17, 2014, 06:44:15 pm »
The main problem with the replacements... are that they still use the microswitch button setup... where as theres less depth to depress them.

 Why does this matter?   Why would you want a longer travel?

 Leaf switches can be made to activate on a hair trigger..  but you do not want that hair trigger to be too easy to set off - just by setting your fingers on the  button surface.   So.. you will push down a mm or so.. and then it will activate.   From here... you can keep in this zone, and lightly bounce or vibrate your finger on that hair trigger area, with pretty much no fatigue.. as well as no hard crashing Thump.. that comes from bottoming out on a typical button.

 So, its like a diving board or trampoline... or even bungee-cord.   Very easy, very smooth.

 Typical micros are like jumping from the 2nd step of your staircase, and landing your flat on your feet... on the hardwood floor.  The shock travels into your skin, tissue, joints and bones.   It causes fatigue much faster.  It makes a lot more noise.  Its harder to recover energy for the next push...  and micros do not have that rapidfire hair-trigger  bounce spot.

 The biggest problem with real leaf buttons, were that many people bottomed them out, not knowing they didnt have to do so.  In that respect, they would be far worse than a microswitch.. because the travel would be far too long... and the resistance too great.

 
 All of these Vendors have made various leaf concepts.. but they are more in line with fighting game style buttons.  Not classic game buttons.   Some of these can be adjusted.. but even at their farthest adjustments.. most as too sensitive - and will fire when barely putting your fingers on a button top. 

 And when you press them down... because there is so little travel.. and so little spring force...  you will pretty much Always bottom out the button.. and experience that microswitch 'shock-force' thump.   

 No longer that nice butter smooth bungee buttery feel and ease.
« Last Edit: June 17, 2014, 06:47:48 pm by Xiaou2 »

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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #4 on: June 17, 2014, 06:51:52 pm »
I'm gonna follow this.  I've never used leaf switch buttons and have been very curious.  I can see their utility with shmups and rapid fire games, but it seems regular microswitch buttons would be better for fighters and such.  Looking forward to solid info here.

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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #5 on: June 17, 2014, 07:36:30 pm »
Somewhat agreeing with X2's position (copy-pasted from his numerous rants on the subject? :P  :lol), the Goldleaf and Micro-Leaf buttons really don't belong in the mix since they aren't *real* leaf switches.

Maybe add some pinball flipper leafs from VirtuaPin, Marco Specialties, or Pinball Life.   :dunno

Any suggestions on flipper leaf-switch/switch-holder/pal-nut/button combinations from our resident pinball fans?   ;D


Scott
« Last Edit: June 17, 2014, 07:41:09 pm by PL1 »

jimmer

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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #6 on: June 17, 2014, 08:18:02 pm »
Somewhat agreeing with X2's position (copy-pasted from his numerous rants on the subject? :P  :lol), the Goldleaf and Micro-Leaf buttons really don't belong in the mix since they aren't *real* leaf switches.

It's the operating characteristics that matter though, not the technology.

Original leafs buttons had about 5.5mm of travel. Goldleafs have about 3.5mm, Sanwa OBSN 2.5mm and GGG Trueleaf about 2.3mm.  Which is why goldleafs feel more like old style leafs to me, and why I find them easier to rapid fire.

The goldleafs lack the contact mating sound, which is reproduced on the GGG trueleaf. And if you have sensitive fingers you might be able to pick up the change in stiffness at contact on the Trueleaf but it's less pronounced than with an original style leaf.

I found the Rollies to be horrible, but a lot of that might be the fault of the ILSA buttons they were mated to.

And LOLz at OP not being able to find anything on this topic :)


 
On forums jimmer speaks for himself as a Defender fan, not as proprietor of www.jbgaming.co.uk  << Is that advertising or disclosure ? or both ?

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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #7 on: June 17, 2014, 08:19:44 pm »
The main problem with the replacements... are that they still use the microswitch button setup... where as theres less depth to depress them.
You look at the 3rd button in the picture?

*JUST ASKING*
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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #8 on: June 17, 2014, 08:24:29 pm »
The main problem with the replacements... are that they still use the microswitch button setup... where as theres less depth to depress them.
You look at the 3rd button in the picture?

*JUST ASKING*

That's still a 'microswitch setup', just with a leaf in there instead of a microswitch. The resulting lack of travel is a major difference to the characteristics of an original leaf button.

On forums jimmer speaks for himself as a Defender fan, not as proprietor of www.jbgaming.co.uk  << Is that advertising or disclosure ? or both ?

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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #9 on: June 17, 2014, 08:37:16 pm »
looks like 2 metal prongs that get pushed together, which I wouldnt consider a "microswitch setup" at all. Other than the leaf holder being part of the button, I dont see any difference between it and a "real" leaf.
citation: I just swapped a buncha leafs in my bad dudes cab and also switched over my my 60 in 1 from cherries to leafs.
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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #10 on: June 17, 2014, 08:45:53 pm »
if "microswitch setup" is only referencing the barrel length, its not the same thing.
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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #11 on: June 17, 2014, 10:18:24 pm »
GGG True-Leaf Pros FTW.
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

ChanceKJ

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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #12 on: June 18, 2014, 03:10:35 am »
GGG True-Leaf Pros FTW.


Agreed.  i paired a couple with a GGG leaf stick on my PacMan build and it made a world of difference. 

...did i just read a whole post by X2?  ...and also somewhat agree with him?

..no. Not possible. its late, I'm short on sleep, X2's real posts are longer than a copy of War and Peace,  and this is all a nightmare.


« Last Edit: June 18, 2014, 03:12:26 am by ChanceKJ »

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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #13 on: June 18, 2014, 06:51:33 am »
Quote
You look at the 3rd button in the picture?

*JUST ASKING*

 Of course.   I know these products inside and out.  In fact, I was sent a sample..  which was very kind... but didnt change my opinion.

 *DO YOU HAVE A REAL LEAFSWITCH ARCADE BUTTON?    JUST ASKING...

 These varients could be used for fighting games, unlike real leafs, which are more suited to rapidfire & classics.

 Double the travel, allows a much greater range of actions, without having to bottom out  (smash into the bottom of the button limit / base).

 It allows about a cushion to be able to rest on them without fear of fire....  then a mid-area where rapidfire bounce can occur (of which you are not forced to leave this section...  easily bouncing without incurring large travel loss & additional spring tension)   and finally, if you press further... you start ramping up the springboard energy.. which helps slow you down from the possibility of hitting the bottom.. as well as to help speed you back up when the energy is redirected back up.


 Again, like a diving board.   Do you want to use a diving board that keeps smashing into the pavement with even light jumping?  or one that ... if you jump too heavily, will still unlikely hit the ground?

 In Groovys version, I was accidentally causing the switch to activate with the smallest pressure of setting my fingers on it lightly.   This isnt optimal for me at all.  As I dont want to have to hold all of my digits up in the air that entire time Im playing.   And if I press it down, even lightly, it always bottoms out.   Theres not enough spring tension nor travel to stop this.

 Since you THINK you know it all... go and prove it to yourself.  Grab a real old skool leaf.... mount and adjust it, and fire up some Galaga and Asteroids Deluxe.

 Or keep spouting a bunch of USELESS CRAP, trying to look cool, like some childish 4th grader.

 Grown-ups are speaking.  Please go and sit at the Kiddie table over in the corner.   Thanks


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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #14 on: June 18, 2014, 07:04:04 am »
And.... The real Xiaou is back.
On forums jimmer speaks for himself as a Defender fan, not as proprietor of www.jbgaming.co.uk  << Is that advertising or disclosure ? or both ?

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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #15 on: June 18, 2014, 07:35:03 am »
*DO YOU HAVE A REAL LEAFSWITCH ARCADE BUTTON?    JUST ASKING..
citation: I just swapped a buncha leafs in my bad dudes cab and also switched over my my 60 in 1 from cherries to leafs.


I dont have a true-leaf to compare but I'll prolly order one and see if the difference is that great. The true-leafs apparently have 2.3mm of travel, looks somewhat adjustable, maybe you just have ham fingers?
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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #16 on: June 18, 2014, 11:37:13 am »
And.... The real Xiaou is back.

 :cheers:
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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #17 on: June 18, 2014, 01:34:00 pm »
In Groovys version, I was accidentally causing the switch to activate with the smallest pressure of setting my fingers on it lightly.   This isnt optimal for me at all.  As I dont want to have to hold all of my digits up in the air that entire time Im playing.   And if I press it down, even lightly, it always bottoms out.   Theres not enough spring tension nor travel to stop this.

That's because you don't have it adjusted correctly.  If you want more tension, adjust the top leaf (with the holder off the button, of course) then set your gap with the lower one.  If that's not enough to replicate the higher resistance of  the particular "old school" buttons you are used to, remove the spring and give it a little stretch.  "Old school" leaf buttons vary from being completely soft in actuation (Williams, etc.), even less than the CLASSX leaf setup when unadjusted, to very stiff (many after market arcade conversions).  As the early variety are a two part setup, they are also more difficult to install, require shimming or routing of the panel's underside to get the distance between the actuator and switch "just right" and/or require different versions of the button for metal and wood panels.

What you also seem never to mention in your comparisons is that this long throw of the earlier varieties is almost entirely responsible for severe contact wear, and the need for much more frequent switch adjustments/cleaning/replacement.  The longer the throw, the more deflection of the blades occurs, thereby stressing them more, and causing the contact points to slide against each other more aggressively. 

The CLASSX button was designed to provide the performance and adjustability of the "old school" leaf switch buttons, while mitigating the issues which caused them to become extinct.  As the overly long throw of those buttons was the root cause of those issues, replicating it was not desirable, nor is it necessary to provide nearly identical performance.

« Last Edit: June 18, 2014, 01:37:17 pm by RandyT »

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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #18 on: June 18, 2014, 01:39:34 pm »
*DO YOU HAVE A REAL LEAFSWITCH ARCADE BUTTON?    JUST ASKING..
citation: I just swapped a buncha leafs in my bad dudes cab and also switched over my my 60 in 1 from cherries to leafs.


I dont have a true-leaf to compare but I'll prolly order one and see if the difference is that great. The true-leafs apparently have 2.3mm of travel, looks somewhat adjustable, maybe you just have ham fingers?


 Swapped leafs to micros?  Micros to leafs?  Micros to those ---smurf-poo--- micro-leafs  (small microswichs with a metal leaf end) ???

 As for True leaf, I meant a Real old school 80s leaf button assembly.   Not a knockoff.   Not Randys Micro Leaf pro.  (of which I was given a sample of..  )   and Not even a Pinball leaf...  but a full on 80s leaf button, assembly, and its leaf switch.

 The travel on the real arcade leafs, was already stated at 5.5mm travel.   Of which you would never use the full travel.. as long as you know how they work  (IE: Floating).

 As for the Ham-Finger / Fist comment..  Nope.  My frame is a thin 6ft 170lbs... thins wrists, avg. hands.

 Also, because of my training with soft-style arts... I can be light as a feather when resting on something or someone, such as an ops arm.. so as to better read them.   However, that takes effort.. and I do not have to worry about being 1/100th of an ounce too heavy.. to spell my doom.   Where as Trueleaf pros are so sensitive you can barely look at them, without them activating.  Yes, you can adjust them.... but that adjustment is very limited in scope, and doesn't match the way real arcade leafs feel, react, and operate.


 Btw - I used to actually Hate leafswitches.   As an arcade manager at a busy mall store... I was constantly bothered with older leafsprings that were bending too far due to their age and fatigue.  As well as the difficulty in cleaning the contacts.. and the frequency they needed to be cleaned, in that kind of constant-use environment.   I hold my head in shame, thinking about all the leafs I tossed into the garbage...   as well as the butchery on certain cabinets that I swapped with Microswitches.

 After learning the true nature of them, starting with a re-introduction to a dedicated Robotron with the correct Wico 8way leafs..  I started to understand why no other stick would do.. for this kind of game..   and that furthered when I got an Asteroids Deluxe, that has the original leaf buttons already on it.   After learning how to 'Float' them, rather than fully depress them... I fell in Love in an instant.   Finally making the realization that many had tried to knock into my stubborn head.. in the past.

 Don't be a Stubborn Head.   
 Get some real "Arcade" Leaf controls.
 

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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #19 on: June 18, 2014, 02:06:35 pm »
Don't be a Stubborn Head.   
 Get some real "Arcade" Leaf controls.

***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #20 on: June 18, 2014, 02:24:47 pm »
I think I'll get a couple buttons from Randy and put them on the off hand of the bad dudes and see if anyone can tell the difference




EDIT: self imposed clean up duty.
« Last Edit: June 25, 2014, 10:06:22 am by Malenko »
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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #21 on: June 18, 2014, 03:18:48 pm »
GGG True-Leaf Pros FTW.

+1.  Although I haven't tried the others and can't offer critiques, I do have 12 of these and love them for their far smaller activation length vs a microswitch.  You can also "tune" them with slight bends if you want. 

While these weren't made in the 80's and can't be considered true leaf buttons in the most literal of senses, they will make a fine substitute for nearly anyone unless you have over 5 years training in soft-style arts.

Also, after reading X2's post, this is how I think of him while he plays with that amazing trigger touch.




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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #22 on: June 18, 2014, 04:13:18 pm »
Don't be a Stubborn Head.   
 Get some real "Arcade" Leaf controls.

Easy said... The only drawbacks are: They are scarce and I'm pretty sure they aren't cheap.
In the real world, we have only a few options.

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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #23 on: June 18, 2014, 04:28:06 pm »
I think it also depends what you want to do.  In my case I didn't want to replace my Happ buttons entirely, so I opted to swap out the cherry microswitch with a microleaf one from GGG.  They snapped right in place (a bit awkwardly until I figured out how to do it) and they worked great.  It was a quick upgrade and I don't have to maintain/adjust them in the future, unlike real leaf switches.

Worked for me!

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Sky25es

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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #24 on: June 18, 2014, 05:33:58 pm »
I think it also depends what you want to do.  In my case I didn't want to replace my Happ buttons entirely, so I opted to swap out the cherry microswitch with a microleaf one from GGG.  They snapped right in place (a bit awkwardly until I figured out how to do it) and they worked great.  It was a quick upgrade and I don't have to maintain/adjust them in the future, unlike real leaf switches.

Worked for me!

DeLuSioNaL29

Hmm... Yeah. That could be a valid option. Mixed pushbuttons, covering the different types of games.

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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #25 on: June 18, 2014, 10:40:01 pm »
I only replaced the ones next to my 4 way. :-)
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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #26 on: June 18, 2014, 11:01:07 pm »
In Groovy's version, Bla bla bla bla.... Snoore....

That's because you don't have it adjusted correctly....

Oh SNAP!




ok, Ugh... yet another thread I enjoyed, then killed by X2.

Unsubscribed.  :-\

Sky25es

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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #27 on: June 19, 2014, 05:59:00 am »
In Groovy's version, Bla bla bla bla.... Snoore....

That's because you don't have it adjusted correctly....

Oh SNAP!




ok, Ugh... yet another thread I enjoyed, then killed by X2.

Unsubscribed.  :-\


 :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2:

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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #28 on: June 19, 2014, 01:02:55 pm »
Quote
How you could have taken any way other than what I typed is beyond me. I'll Chad it down for you.......   For the Bad Dudes, I replaced 2 miscolored leafs with the proper colored leafs. You must have known this because you advocated embedding ninja stars and swords into the cabinet when you commented in the restore thread. For the 60 in 1 I took Happ comp buttons with cherry switches out, and in their place put in leafs from an actual Galaga cab.

 I seriously don't know how you carry around so much darkness, bitterness, jealousy, anger and hate... and still manage to have not hung yourself.  I wouldn't bet on you making it another 10yrs though...

 As for your posts, I didn't look and read much.  I saw a few pics, and posted a comment.  Its not like you built a moving cockpit.  It wasn't that interesting to me to pay much attention.

 But Bravo for using real arcade leafs on an older game.

 However... Its not like you are going to get much improvement on a beat-em-up.  You could almost play those with your feet.. as theres very little skill or intensity involved.   Will people notice?   Many may not.  Many are not educated in the feel of buttons.. nor how to properly use a Leaf button to best advantage.   School them in the proper method.. and inform them to pay attention to how if feels when one buttons bottoms out.. where as you can float the other, without bottoming out.  Its pretty clear, pretty quickly.

 Btw - A far better test, is to build a small CP, and put one of each on it.  Have various users play 2 or 3  games of:  Haley's Comet, Galaga, Asteroids Deluxe.  Those are some of the ones that pop into my mind as being highly fatiguing and rapid in reaction times.

Quote
That's because you don't have it adjusted correctly.  If you want more tension, adjust the top leaf (with the holder off the button, of course) then set your gap with the lower one.  If that's not enough to replicate the higher resistance of  the particular "old school" buttons you are used to, remove the spring and give it a little stretch.


 For kicks, If I can find the button amongst my Chaos.. I will try to adjust it to the extremes.  At the time, I didn't want to mangle it up.   But as said, this isn't about the resistance alone.  Its about having your fingers able to sink into the buttons a little.. and not accidentally make a connection occur.  This is also to do with comfort.. much like a soft cushy couch, rather than a stiff wooden chair.

Quote
"Old school" leaf buttons vary from being completely soft in actuation (Williams, etc.), even less than the CLASSX leaf setup when unadjusted, to very stiff (many after market arcade conversions).  As the early variety are a two part setup, they are also more difficult to install, require shimming or routing of the panel's underside to get the distance between the actuator and switch "just right" and/or require different versions of the button for metal and wood panels.

 Im very aware of Leaf technology.  I have plenty of them, in various forms.. as well as have worked & played on many a leaf based machine/controller.

 Stating all of this still does not change the far better feel and performance.


Quote
What you also seem never to mention in your comparisons is that this long throw of the earlier varieties is almost entirely responsible for severe contact wear, and the need for much more frequent switch adjustments/cleaning/replacement.  The longer the throw, the more deflection of the blades occurs, thereby stressing them more, and causing the contact points to slide against each other more aggressively. 


 I mentioned the upset at having to maintain them as an Arcade OP.   Many of these controls lasted 10+ yrs without any problems.  Probably with only mild cleaning.   But like any tech, it will fail eventually.   That's not this issue.

 Happ controls makes a nearly Indestructible shifter.   However, its Ugly as hell, has a really poor shape and feels very awkward in the hands.  To make things worse... the mechanical feel and 'action',  is FAR inferior to many other older Shifters that various companies have produced themselves...    So...   Do we want something that last 50 yrs.. but feels and plays poorly?   Or something that needs some tweaks or replacements every so often... but is very comfy, and precise?     I think most would chose the latter, when dealing with precision things like intense Arcade games..  And the Former, for something like a Blender or Washing machine.

Quote
The CLASSX button was designed to provide the performance and adjustability of the "old school" leaf switch buttons, while mitigating the issues which caused them to become extinct.  As the overly long throw of those buttons was the root cause of those issues, replicating it was not desirable, nor is it necessary to provide nearly identical performance.

 There is no such thing as the Perfect universal button or controller.  Everyone that makes such a device.. is delusional.   And many of the people whom buy them... end up selling them later, and buying other controllers for each specific task / need.

 The issue of throw, comfort, and rapidfire marathon games... are not covered well in your design.
Also, one COULD design a classic leaf replacement that utilizes the same kind of feel and throw... but with better durability.  Yes, it will cost more...  But classic fans, will pay the extra...  rather than suffering with inferior feel and control.


Edit - I will add...  That as a Microswitch replacement, these are probably a better solution, if they can be adjusted to finger-sitting resistance.   But for Leaf games.. its not a good solution, IMO.
« Last Edit: June 19, 2014, 01:12:12 pm by Xiaou2 »

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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #29 on: June 19, 2014, 02:01:13 pm »
I think BreakThru would be a pretty good test game, 2 buttons, 1 using rapid fire the other for precision jumps.

EDIT: self imposed clean up duty
« Last Edit: June 25, 2014, 10:07:03 am by Malenko »
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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #30 on: June 19, 2014, 02:55:36 pm »

Steve, you complained many years ago that no-one would start producing leaf switch based controls.  At first I resisted, but when finances allowed (well over $15k in investments) I did it for the community to fill the void.  In doing so, I addressed the major shortcomings of the original design, being the high maintenance requirements, finicky installation, large space requirements, and higher cost.  All of which were responsible for an entire industry abandoning them in the distant past.  Since then, we have sold thousands, and the vast majority of users find them to be a huge upgrade over the buttons they replaced.  Not just in arcade machines, but also for pinball flippers.  Your comments about rapid-fire capability being inferior are not grounded in any kind of reality.  If you can't get the same performance from the CLASSX buttons as you do from the original leaf buttons, then you are either unwilling, or physically unable to make any small adjustments in your playing style to make it happen. 

If folks don't mind dealing with the numerous shortcomings of the originals, which the industry long ago turned it's back on, then by all means, those are what they should seek out while the remnants can still be found.   But honestly, Steve, the way you carry on is just detrimental overall.  Anyone who might make the sacrifices necessary in the form of any kind of investment, to entertain your ramblings, are likely to discard such notions, as nothing seems to be good enough for you if it's not an exact replica of 30 year old designs, shortcomings be damned.

I've said this before, and I will unfortunately say it once more: If you really think you can offer the community something which is a major improvement over what is available, take some personal risk, as the dedicated others have done, and do the work it takes to bring it to fruition.  Either you will be right and actually do something which improves the lives of others, or you won't and have to live with the ramifications of your decisions.  Otherwise, you are just pining for the past, without really helping anyone.  As you seem to be fond of analogies, you seem to me to be akin to a movie critic who pathologically feels they must criticize any film which is not in black and white.

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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #31 on: June 19, 2014, 03:14:08 pm »
holy ---fudgesicle---..way too serious in here.

Nothing like reading angry, attacking posts from a bunch of nerds who play arcade games... :applaud:

You can't make it up. :hissy:

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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #32 on: June 19, 2014, 03:32:50 pm »
Nothing like reading angry, attacking posts from a bunch of nerds who play arcade games... :applaud:

Heh, I'm not sure who exactly is angry, but didn't you expect this type of spirited discussion from an arcade controls forum? :)

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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #33 on: June 19, 2014, 04:34:46 pm »
Nothing like reading angry, attacking posts from a bunch of nerds who play arcade games... :applaud:

Heh, I'm not sure who exactly is angry, but didn't you expect this type of spirited discussion from an arcade controls forum? :)

Spirited?   :laugh2:

I guess we have different definitions of spirited  :dunno

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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #34 on: June 19, 2014, 04:49:07 pm »
Spirited?   :laugh2:

I guess we have different definitions of spirited  :dunno

You must be new here.  :cheers:

I long ago realized that X2, while indeed having a lot of knowledge, has his ideas set in concrete.  He has a world view that, in his mind, is perfect.  If you disagree with his world view in any way, then you are wrong.  Period.  And he will explain to you in verbose detail exactly why you are wrong, even if his details make sense only to him.

It's high quality entertainment.   :applaud:

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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #35 on: June 19, 2014, 05:13:27 pm »
You must be new here.  :cheers:

I long ago realized that X2, while indeed having a lot of knowledge, has his ideas set in concrete.  He has a world view that, in his mind, is perfect.  If you disagree with his world view in any way, then you are wrong.  Period.  And he will explain to you in verbose detail exactly why you are wrong, even if his details make sense only to him.

It's high quality entertainment.   :applaud:
Wow, I could never think of a way to describe it, but you put it so perfectly* and eloquently. I sir, am in awe.  :cheers:



*I would debate you on him having a lot of knowledge, he does however have strong OPINIONS; and apparently fingers
« Last Edit: June 25, 2014, 10:08:10 am by Malenko »
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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #36 on: June 19, 2014, 07:49:35 pm »
Ok , I'm back, this is getting good.

#Popcorn


Leave it to Randy to dish out a nice big glass of "shut the ---fudgesicle--- up" style realism.  Reading that post made my day. I feel like I need to go spend some money on your site to repay the favor.  :D

Edit: actually, I think I will. Might just have to pull the trigger on some extra leaf buttons for the main build. When I figure out what I want to do I'll shoot you a pm. I may need a favor.
« Last Edit: June 19, 2014, 07:53:34 pm by ChanceKJ »

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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #37 on: June 19, 2014, 08:37:16 pm »
Quote
Yet I haven't stooped so low as to call people Autistic, go fig.

 I believe I called you Bipolar.. and or extreme OCD.   But if the shoe fits...
I wouldnt call it Low.  Id call it more of an statement based on mountains of data thats posted from your daily attacks on me and others here.

 Its funny, because I consider your Hot air to be just that...  Gas.   I dont waste time thinking about you, what you have said, nor continuing to stalk post you 24/7, with the most bitter anger possible.   You do, however.   You cant let Anything go, period.

 But you dont have a problem?!


 I try not to attack anyone... especially for personal things.  But I do retaliate... because I do not believe in letting people abuse and walk all over you without eating the same in return.   After a while, these kinds of people cant deal with the retaliation, and learn to shut their big stinky traps.

 You want to judge and attack... well, thats exactly what you will get back.   Judgement and attacks.   Not just from me, on occasion...  but from everyone you kick around.

Quote
At least you can admit you don't pay attention before you post, so I can respect that. I used leafs because that's what was originally in a Bad Dudes cab.

 Actually, I do pay a lot of attention to things I actually care about... or are interested in..  time being a factor.   Bad Dudes isnt exactly a great classic...  IMO,   and the restore was nothing special to note.  But... At least it wasnt a Pole Position that was stripped of its 360 degree wheel... which despite their being many of them around.. is still always a shame to me.   I find 360 wheel games to be more fun that many of the analog wheel games.   A game of sega's  Turbo, requires much faster reflexes than any modern racer..   and Supersprint is far more challenging than 90% of the drivers out there.   Not that I dont like 3d racer.. because I like all kinds of games from all periods of time.  Just stating that the newer racers tend to be a lot easier... and or a snore fest (sim).

 Still.. are there times when I misread things?   Skim, miss things, misinterpret?   Sure.   Im Human, not a Robot.   And thankfully, Im not Autistic..  though, I often wish I had a Photographic memory thing going for me.   The mere fact that it Bothers you to no end.. that I do not have the Definition of "Ham Fist"  memorized...  is Insanity!   Yup, I guess I dont know English... because I didnt know a few words out of the roughly stated 'Million' words available.   I know.. seriously.. why bother going on with life, when you cant recall every words details to the exacting word by word definition?!   Ahh, but Im sure your already starting to formulate how I SHOULD be looking up these things...  Fact is, I simply dont care  "GASP!".     Fact is, it has pretty much ZERO importance in real-life.   And if it matters that much to you... then you certainly have mental health issues.   As the Majority of people, do Not feel like you.  Yup.. you are in the Minority.  Im talking... maybe 5% if that.

 And for the record..  I used to be scrappy weak, frail, the furthest thing from athletic you would ever know.  Always picked last in Gym... until near 7th grade.  Even then... still really poorly coordinated, and weak.    It wasnt till age 20, that I started training hardcore in the Martial arts.  Taking both day and night classes for a while...  each class 2hrs, with half of that being a full core workout...  and I had a 30min bike ride each way...    Multiply that by 4x a week..    and then add up the countless practice and training outside of class.. and you may get a picture of how much progress was made.   In 3yrs time, I was doing what men 20+ yrs in the arts were incapable of.   This isnt to brag.. just what serious dedication and hard fought intense training can accomplish.   So yeah... it pretty much goes without saying... that Im graceful as a cat now... fast, millimeter accurate, can deliver more power than guys larger than me... with far less distance needed.  Can take heavy impacts (iron body), and can flow and move like water around an Ops limbs & power.   Button use is Obviously my only real weakness however...     ::)   :laugh2:


Quote
I appreciate you advocating that I build multiple control panels , though you yourself have yet to build a single one, I'll have to pass.

 Actually, Ive build quite a few panels, stand alone CPs, and far more complex things.. such as a fully working Star Wars yoke.. out of wood.
I could make a list of things Ive built and restored.. that would overshadow your accomplishments by miles.   But I didnt tell you to make multiple control panels.  I basically said to go and make a test panel.  It takes only a few minutes and some scrap wood.  Often found on the side of the road for free.. when someones el-cheapo MDF / particle board furniture is "curbed" from its failure to hold up to any strain.

Quote
I think swapping one set of player one's buttons over is a much better test, would waste less materials, and they(my guinea pig) can literally switch over to the other buttons with zero down time mid game. Of the games you listed, I only own Galaga and its not JAMMA and I don't have an adapter.

 No mame setup?  Thats kind of sad.

Quote
    For kicks, If I can find the button amongst my Chaos.. I will try to adjust it to the extremes.  At the time, I didn't want to mangle it up.   But as said, this isn't about the resistance alone.  Its about having your fingers able to sink into the buttons a little.. and not accidentally make a connection occur.  This is also to do with comfort.. much like a soft cushy couch, rather than a stiff wooden chair.

I can sink my fingers into a soft cushy couch, how do you sink yours into a stiff wooden chair?
I look forward to you posting how you broke the "piece of ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- button" with your Northern Style Wushu index-finger poke.

 Reading comprehension Fail?

 Thats exactly the point.  You CANT sink your fingers into hardwood.    Much like how a stiff button, is like hardwood.. where an arcade leafswitch is more like a soft cushioned office chair that has a gas filled chamber.  Your fingers pressure allows the leaf to bend and move down slightly, adjusting like the office chairs shock... in a very springy, comfy and easy fashion... yet still staying out of the danger zone of actually registering a button press.

 As for finger strike capability..  you shouldnt knock what you have no experience with.   I tend to stab my fingers into wooden doors quite often.  I tap them on tables quite hard as well.  My fingers dont fold with impact.   Especially when striking soft deep tissue areas of the body.   With a fingers smaller surface area... it doesnt weaken / dissipate the impact forces over a larger spread-out area.   Instead, the energy generated is more concentrated, can penetrate deeper into the Ops body .. and is capable of far greater damage than any other kind of strike.   IE - Which would you rather get throw at you neck.. at about 32 mph?   A 2x4..  or a half-inch diameter metal rod?

 And quite funnily, I dont really train this as much & as seriously as I should.  Ive seem certain practitioners, (and or heard about them) with far stronger fingers, going through some seriously strong materials, in demos.   One famous Sifu pokes holes in stop signs.   Ive also seen certain people inverted, and supporting most all of their mass, by only their two fingers.   Which is probably what you dont get.  Its a full-body supported attack... not a mere Digit.  Meaning, in my case ... 170lb 1/2" rod, moving at +32 feet per second... at some of your weakest areas.


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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #38 on: June 19, 2014, 09:26:58 pm »
I believe I called you Bipolar.. and or extreme OCD. 

And then again, I dont have a robotic autistic photographic memory like you.   Then again, Im a free-thinker, which means Im able to think outside of the box, rather than be a stale copying machine, like you.
If you're replying to a troll you are part of the problem.
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Re: Leaf style Pushbuttons and their differences
« Reply #39 on: June 19, 2014, 10:00:20 pm »
Quote
Steve, you complained many years ago that no-one would start producing leaf switch based controls.  At first I resisted, but when finances allowed (well over $15k in investments) I did it for the community to fill the void.


 While I appreciate the risk and investment...  You cant try to guilt-trip me because I do not agree with your idea of what constitutes a classic leafswitch 'upgrade'.    Ive had years of abuse from a mother whom used that guilt-trip half-truth BS on me... and what Id finally came away from it... was that I have no need to feel anything from such an abusive attack... except anger, and the decision not to bother talking to, nor responding to the attackers low-ball tactics.

Quote
If you can't get the same performance from the CLASSX buttons as you do from the original leaf buttons, then you are either unwilling, or physically unable to make any small adjustments in your playing style to make it happen.

 This is straight up BULL, and you know it.   Your assembly is mechanically different,  and without half the travel.. its incapable of replicating the original feel and reactions of a classic leaf button.    Similar?   Partially so.. but not the same... and not close enough, as stated.

 Others whom dont know the mechanical qualities of what you suggest, wont understand fully, and may accept your butt-covering maneuver.   But many whom are mechanics, know the real deal... and are face palming and chuckling at the  "SPIN"  thats being applied here.

 Many a year ago... I tried to produce a Discs of Tron spinner with some 2 part plastic mix.  The results were less than adequate.. but heck, it was an interesting experience.   Anyways... when I found out there were certain parts I couldnt make... I was going to alter the original design in a certain way.   I was given the full on  angered  "nose-up"   business, by several..  whom made it very clear they were not interested in such a different approach.   Even if that meant there were No other alternatives...  but to hopefully score a real assembly one day.. via miracle + wallet drain.

 Similarly, I once thought Id build a Wooden Dummy..   but found I didnt know how to cut the square holes through a 12" diameter log.  So I improvised.. and just made the arms stationary.    I even went one step further... to angle the lower arm, as if it were coming from a different vector.  I thought I was making a very clever improovement on a +300 yr old design.    However, after all of the work invested... I finally hung the thing and tried to use it.   I found out immediately, that it was pretty much useless... as the form did not work due to my non moving arms.. as well as the incorrect angle of the bottom arm.   Each design element had long been tested and perfected.. but I didnt know the insides and outs about what and why... until that very moment.   Egg on face, I no longer jump into the belief that I can improve something thats been out there for ages...  often made by designers far more capable,   and has been proven and tested.

 At this point, I probably could tweak some things to make some changes... but only because Ive the experience and in-depth usage knowledge.   Where as I see others constantly making devices that are far inferior...  partly because they have little to no understanding of the form, and how and what is trying to be accomplished with the original device.   As such, they THINK their designs are great... and even Better...  but the experienced people in the actual art..  are rolling their eyes.. and wouldnt pay a nickel for their laughable contraptions.

 While you may have meant well..  you have come up short.. on a major feature of a real leaf button.   I and others, may have tried and failed the same way... also not understanding the reasons.   Heck, I didnt know what made leafs so special until I was in my 30s... which in many ways.. is embarrassing.    (Though, maybe not as embarrassing as my thought that I was being a pioneer as the first to make a so called "ergonomic" curved button layout... and then quickly realizing that it sucked when It was made real -vs-  just placing your fingers on circles drawn on paper...   ...and then having to scrap and re-work the control panel)


Quote
If folks don't mind dealing with the numerous shortcomings of the originals, which the industry long ago turned it's back on, then by all means, those are what they should seek out while the remnants can still be found.   But honestly, Steve, the way you carry on is just detrimental overall.  Anyone who might make the sacrifices necessary in the form of any kind of investment, to entertain your ramblings, are likely to discard such notions, as nothing seems to be good enough for you if it's not an exact replica of 30 year old designs, shortcomings be damned.

 As you stated... leafs had their shortcommings..   and they were replaced with Micros.   But at the same time... what happened?   The game designers no longer made rapidfire games.  Why?  Because nobody could withstand the fatigue with micros.   They then reduced the games difficulty level as a result.. and or made auto-fire games.

 The same thing happened when they introduced those WRETCHED mini-analog thumb sticks.   They are nearly unusable due to the poor leverage point, short length, spring type, and the least deleterious digit.. to control them.    You cant be precise with them at all.   What happened?   The game companies had to Reduce the games needed precision as a result... and or highly reduce the difficulty levels as well. All because some bonehead made the worst possible decision in gaming History.

 So what is detrimental?   People passionate about Quality and Control?   Or people whom are too egotistical to admit they were wrong... and that they didnt really know what they were doing when they made their disastrous design... ?

 Ya know what?   They COULD fix those mini analogs with a que from Sinistar's controller.  In which theres a multiplicative resistance setup.  Making it harder to move the stick.. the further it goes from center... and keeping the center from being pulled out of whack.. due to odd spring forces.    For those whom are lost .. think about that little analog track-stick nub that is on a lot of the laptops.   It takes more pressure to move it.. and its a lot more precise than a slippery mini analog.   However.. even these are not quite on par with the Sinistar centering device:  a four post rubber "X" shape... often called a centering-spider.   Fighting one leg, means that each of the other legs are also involved... so the further you go from center... you multiply the force exponentially.  This gives Sinistar its trademark ability to control the ship in very slow speed.. with incredible precision and accuracy...  yet all the sudden, can burst to hyper fast warp speeds... whenever you choose.   A typical analog thumbstick cant play this game well at all in mame.   Even a large handle analog stick isnt as good... even with its enhanced leverage and thus greater precision.  The spring is too tight in the middle.. and once overcome... too lose to keep you from going too fast too easily, in game.  Therefore.. again, programmers are stuck reducing game difficulty / challenge / intensity... because of CRAPPY controller designs.

 The Detriment to the arcade hobby..  is parts that make classics play Worse than they are meant to be played and enjoyed.
The Detriment to Classic Gaming, is for too many 'Know-it-alls'  to ruin the whole picture of gaming history, and Tarnish it with false and half-truths, to protect their investments and or egos.

Quote
I've said this before, and I will unfortunately say it once more: If you really think you can offer the community something which is a major improvement over what is available, take some personal risk, as the dedicated others have done, and do the work it takes to bring it to fruition.  Either you will be right and actually do something which improves the lives of others, or you won't and have to live with the ramifications of your decisions.  Otherwise, you are just pining for the past, without really helping anyone.  As you seem to be fond of analogies, you seem to me to be akin to a movie critic who pathologically feels they must criticize any film which is not in black and white.

 Its funny that you, and a lot of the others THINK that Im a guy stuck in the ancient past.  This is typical of shallow minded people.

 Im happy playing some of the old Mechanical PCB-Less games, black and white games discrete games, vector games, the classic 80s games.. as I am playing the later Street fighers, Tekken III's,  90s Racers, and even some modern games.   Ive been into games since I was 7, and Im in my 40s now.  Ive owned almost all the consoles, as well as grew up on the old PCs:  Vic20, C-64 & 128, Amiga 500, and a little dabble on some old IBM PC's in the times when Sim City & Wolfenstein 3D were the rage.

 Ive worked in a busy arcade as a manager / repair tech... learning the ins and outs of mechanical design and failure points.. as well as learning about material qualities, stress factors, spring types, and far more.   (Not to mention I used to take apart everything as a kid)

 Since then, Ive got into collecting and restoration work, on both Pinball machines and Vids.

 I own probably 80% of all of the unique specialty arcade controllers that were made.   As well as many unique console controllers.  (Epyx 500xj singe hand ergonimic controller stick - which used microswitches in a consumer stick.. which was unheard of at that time)

 Yet somehow... Im clueless when it comes to Leaf buttons ?    And somehow..  this collector and preservationist... is bad for the hobby and cause... because he wont accept inferior / incorrectly functioning controllers.   A M A Z I N G.

 Dont you worry Randy...  I wont bother bashing your bologna further.   

 However, If Im fortunate in my luck somehow, I may be an up and rising competitor.