What is the best method to supply power to cab?

[DarakuTenshi]

Now, I've found this http://www.amazon.com/Amico-IEC320-Module-Switch-Socket/dp/B0050HH70E/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1383443242&sr=8-6&keywords=power+inlet


And figured I could cut the plug off of the power strip and wire it to this thing and then wire the power button from my PC to the switch on this thing as well. I'm not sure if that will work or not because I know nothing about this module.

What are most of you doing to supply power to the cabinet with the best look?

[ChanceKJ]

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[yotsuya]

I've spent too much time and money on the other more important things for my cab that i've had to skimp on some things. Well, one thing, This.

I found this out back by a dumpster submerged in a puddle. there was a rat chewing on it so i took some hockey tape and hot glue to reattach the end. I know it doesn't have that extra round prong thinggy, so anything in my cab that needs to plug into it will just have to have that yanked off with pliers. Or something.  I just tried plugging it in and it started to spark and give off a little smoke. Thats normal for this stuff right?

Throw that ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- away yesterday, bro.

[ChanceKJ]

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[Hockeyboy]

Now, I've found this http://www.amazon.com/Amico-IEC320-Module-Switch-Socket/dp/B0050HH70E/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1383443242&sr=8-6&keywords=power+inlet


And figured I could cut the plug off of the power strip and wire it to this thing and then wire the power button from my PC to the switch on this thing as well. I'm not sure if that will work or not because I know nothing about this module.

What are most of you doing to supply power to the cabinet with the best look?

I bought the same exact switch/plug you did. I mounted it to the bottom back of my cabinet and will use a 90-degree computer power plug to connect the cab to the wall. Then, on the inside of the cab, on the ground, white, and black tabs, I will attach the wires from the Smart Strip that I bought and mounted inside the cabinet (after I've cut off that plug and stripped the wires). Connected to the Control plug of that power strip will be the computer. From the 2-wire little connector labeled PWR (that connects the motherboard to the front power button on your PC case) I will run a SPST button switch that will be mounted to the top of the cabinet in the back. The monitor and speaker amplifier will all be plugged into the power strip. The red switch on that item you bought will always be on (set to 1, *not* 0). To power up the cabinet, you press your button that's wired into the computer motherboard PWR plug. The computer powers up and the sensing Smart Strip powers up the components plugged into the other sockets (in my case that's the monitor and the speaker amplifier).

IIRC, you can't connect the computer PWR connector directly to that plug or switch because that PWR connector is a momentary contact switch on your motherboard.

And, hopefully, when you bought that switch you looked up how to wire it on the backside. I did a Google search on that plug and found a website that shows how to attach/solder wires to the tabs to incorporate both the plug and the switch -- here's a wiring diagram: http://thingiverse-production.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/aa/a2/25/ce/0a/switch2_display_large.jpg

EDIT: inserted a link to the wiring diagram, please click link.

[DarakuTenshi]

Thanks, that how I was thinking about doing it as well. All though I was hoping to use the switch on this inlet module instead of running a different switch. But, will a momentary switch be the best way to go for a PC power button?

[PL1]

here's a wiring diagram

The only problems with the diagram are:
1. It bypasses the fuse -- change the lower connection of the diagonal black line from the center left (fuse input) to center right (fuse output)

2. It appears to show a simple DPST switch (non-illuminated).

For an illuminated switch with a neon lamp, here are a diagram and schematic that Rablack97 used for his bartop.

- 1, 2, and 3 are the power inputs
- 4 and 5 are the fuse connections
- 6, 7, and 8 are the switch leads



NL is the neon lamp in the switch.  Pin 2 is ground. (not shown)

will a momentary switch be the best way to go for a PC power button?

That's what PCs use. (unless you're using an AT power supply and 20 year old computer)


Scott

[a1pharm]

I've spent too much time and money on the other more important things for my cab that i've had to skimp on some things. Well, one thing, This.

I found this out back by a dumpster submerged in a puddle. there was a rat chewing on it so i took some hockey tape and hot glue to reattach the end. I know it doesn't have that extra round prong thinggy, so anything in my cab that needs to plug into it will just have to have that yanked off with pliers. Or something.  I just tried plugging it in and it started to spark and give off a little smoke. Thats normal for this stuff right?

You should PM this to PBJ, maybe he could use it on his "table router"

[BobA]

+1 for PL1

Noticed the fuse was bypassed but you picked it up right away.

and agreed your wiring of a momentary switch to the MB front panel connector is the proper way to turn on the computer.

[paigeoliver]

I wouldn't use that. One of the first things I do when purchasing a game is relocate the power switch somewhere that can be accessed from the front of the machine. Every game I own either has a wall behind it or is backed up to another game. That switch pretty much locks you into powering up from the back of the cabinet.

[PL1]

A simple alternative is to skip the switch and fuse and just use a C14 socket like this one.



+1 on putting the momentary power-on switch where you can reach it even after you have other cabs/walls on both sides and behind.


Scott

[DarakuTenshi]

Yeah that's a good point. I guess I'll have to go that route instead.

[Minwah]

A simple alternative is to skip the switch and fuse and just use a C14 socket like this one.



+1 on putting the momentary power-on switch where you can reach it even after you have other cabs/walls on both sides and behind.

That's what I do. Then just kill the power at the wall socket to switch the whole machine off.

[a1pharm]

On this bartop, I have a power supply exposed on the back of the machine, this is useful for 3 reasons:

1. you don't have to buy a new socket to install (you are already going to use a power supply)
2. it exhausts hot air out of the cab, without a separate fan installation
3. I soldered a power strip cord to the power plug, so I was able to get away with this

Pic attached.

[pbj]

You should PM this to PBJ, maybe he could use it on his "table router"

Yesterday, my wife asks me if I belong to some kind of weird club where we all brag about the stupid crap we did and lived through.  This was after I burned my right eyebrow off lighting the gas fireplace.

Joke is on her, though.  She didn't see that shot of carb cleaner my left eye took earlier in the morning.

 

[DarakuTenshi]

On this bartop, I have a power supply exposed on the back of the machine, this is useful for 3 reasons:

1. you don't have to buy a new socket to install (you are already going to use a power supply)
2. it exhausts hot air out of the cab, without a separate fan installation
3. I soldered a power strip cord to the power plug, so I was able to get away with this

Pic attached.

For a bartop that looks like a good solution, but I'll need multiple fans anyway since I'm doing a full size.

[kahlid74]

+1 for PL1.  I've used four of these now on cabs/bartops/battletech pod and they work very well.

[ark_ader]

I use cheap Android Tablets now for cabs, so I only need 5 volts (1.5a).

But if I was using 240v or 110 I would have the PSU exposed and run all the power internally. 

I was in Best Buy over the weekend and I was amazed how many (crap) monitors and 32" TVs were 12V powered and externally too.

[DJMattB241]

Alright, this is the part of the project that I'm wrestling to get my brain around right now, so this is good timing.

On this bartop, I have a power supply exposed on the back of the machine

This is super cool, except I have a couple questions:
1) How are you powering the monitor and other stuff you may have in the case?
2) How did you mount the power supply to the case?
3) Is that a rocker switch I see beneath the power supply? Is that to actually turn the computer on once the power supply is plugged in?

[a1pharm]

Alright, this is the part of the project that I'm wrestling to get my brain around right now, so this is good timing.

On this bartop, I have a power supply exposed on the back of the machine

This is super cool, except I have a couple questions:
1) How are you powering the monitor and other stuff you may have in the case?
2) How did you mount the power supply to the case?
3) Is that a rocker switch I see beneath the power supply? Is that to actually turn the computer on once the power supply is plugged in?

1) I soldered a powerstrip to the power terminals on the back of the socket, I made sure the power switch also killed the power supply
2) Took the case of the PSU, screwed it in place (through the metal, into the wood) and put it back together
3) No, it's not a rocker. I couldn't remove/replace the switch without potentially damaging the PSU, so it's just a kill switch.  There is a black button above the PSU that powers the computer on.

[Tropps]

here's a wiring diagram

The only problems with the diagram are:
1. It bypasses the fuse -- change the lower connection of the diagonal black line from the center left (fuse input) to center right (fuse output)

2. It appears to show a simple DPST switch (non-illuminated).

For an illuminated switch with a neon lamp, here are a diagram and schematic that Rablack97 used for his bartop.

- 1, 2, and 3 are the power inputs
- 4 and 5 are the fuse connections
- 6, 7, and 8 are the switch leads



NL is the neon lamp in the switch.  Pin 2 is ground. (not shown)

will a momentary switch be the best way to go for a PC power button?

That's what PCs use. (unless you're using an AT power supply and 20 year old computer)


Scott

So would this be the correct way to install? I've got this same switch combo and am trying to figure it out.

[PL1]

So would this be the correct way to install? I've got this same switch combo and am trying to figure it out.

If the switch is a DPST (Double Pole Single Throw) like this, then yes.



I'd give you a definite answer, but my multimeter doesn't work on .JPGs.   

You may need to swap the left side wires for the right side wires and/or swap the top pair of wires/bottom pair of wires. (not sure which side the lamp/LED is on or if it is polarized)


Scott

[Tropps]

So would this be the correct way to install? I've got this same switch combo and am trying to figure it out.

If the switch is a DPST (Double Pole Single Throw) like this, then yes.



I'd give you a definite answer, but my multimeter doesn't work on .JPGs.   

You may need to swap the left side wires for the right side wires and/or swap the top pair of wires/bottom pair of wires. (not sure which side the lamp/LED is on or if it is polarized)


Scott

Thanks for the reply! I have like zero knowledge on wiring and everything so I'm trying to read up and learn so I don't make any mistakes and burn my apartment down...

[PL1]

To test if it is a DPST switch, use this procedure with *no power connected*. (Unless you want to buy a new meter.  )

If you have a multimeter, set it to ohms/continuity and connect the leads to the top right and top left switch terminals.

The meter should show less than 2 ohms (ohms mode) or beep (continuity mode) when the switch is set to on and show between 10 Meg ohms (10 million ohms) and infinite ohms (ohms mode) or not beep (continuity mode) when the switch is set to off.

Repeat with the lower pair of terminals.

If this post doesn't make sense, there are probably some good "how to" multimeter videos on youtube.   


Scott

[Homietheclown]

To test if it is a DPST switch, use this procedure with *no power connected*. (Unless you want to buy a new meter.  )

If you have a multimeter, set it to ohms/continuity and connect the leads to the top right and top left switch terminals.

The meter should show less than 2 ohms (ohms mode) or beep (continuity mode) when the switch is set to on and show between 10 Meg ohms (10 million ohms) and infinite ohms (ohms mode) or not beep (continuity mode) when the switch is set to off.

Repeat with the lower pair of terminals.

If this post doesn't make sense, there are probably some good "how to" multimeter videos on youtube.   


Scott

Just digging up this old thread. I've already been searching but not sure if I am doing this right or not.  I didn't get the lighted switch that everyone seems to be getting. My switch is a douple post single throw (DPST).

Currently I have plans to wire my cab as the diagram shows. It' seems to match the pictures that I've read.  HOWEVER, my problem is with my multi-meter test. I haven't learned enough about how to use a multi-meter except for continuity testing. My problem is when I test the continuity. 

When the switch is off none of the tabs are connected as shown by the multi-meter. When I turn it on, tabs A (brass) and C (silver) are connected through the continuity test. Same with tabs B (brass) and D (silver). 

From the pictures that I've seen the brass tabs are probably the neutral wires and the silver should be hot. However I am not sure. I thought, with the switch on, I should get a beep when testing tabs A & B as well as tabs C & D. In my testing A connected to C and not B so basically the power from the live wire returns back to the source?

Help!

[PL1]

So you're saying that with your switch:

 - With the switch set to "off", the meter doesn't beep (no continuity) when you connect the leads to A and C or B and D.

 - With the switch set to "on", the meter beeps (continuity) when you connect the leads to A and C or B and D.

BTW, brass is usually hot (black) and silver is usually neutral (white).


Scott

[Homietheclown]

So you're saying that with your switch:

 - With the switch set to "off", the meter doesn't beep (no continuity) when you connect the leads to A and C or B and D.

 - With the switch set to "on", the meter beeps (continuity) when you connect the leads to A and C or B and D.

BTW, brass is usually hot (black) and silver is usually neutral (white).


Scott

Hey PL1,

That is exactly right. Which from what I've read here is backwards. A beeps when connected to C and B beeps connected to D. The switch still works like a switch. It's just different from what I've seen here. So I got to thinking can I just wire terminals A & B to the IEC plug and then C & D to the cab.

I'll just have A be the black (live wire) or should C be the black (live wire). Does it really matter as long as the wires match up on C & D?

[pbj]

You know, I'd make some joke and say it doesn't matter... but then I found out an outlet in my garage was wired backwards.  And there was 50VAC between the power switch on my TMNT pedestal and earth ground.  And I like being barefoot.  So try and wire that stuff up consistently.

[HaRuMaN]

You know, I'd make some joke and say it doesn't matter... but then I found out an outlet in my garage was wired backwards.  And there was 50VAC between the power switch on my TMNT pedestal and earth ground.  And I like being barefoot.  So try and wire that stuff up consistently.

Heh.  Moved into my house, plugged the dryer in, nothing.  Checked the breaker box, breaker was in the off position.  Flipped the breaker and almost immediately every smoke detector in the house went nuts.  Flipped the breaker back off, there was a fire from the back of the drier to the vent hole, completely burned up the vent hose, melted linoleum, scorched the walls.  After investigating, some idiot had wired the 220V outlet wrong with live going to ground...   

I'm lucky the breaker was off when I plugged it in. 

[Homietheclown]

You know, I'd make some joke and say it doesn't matter... but then I found out an outlet in my garage was wired backwards.  And there was 50VAC between the power switch on my TMNT pedestal and earth ground.  And I like being barefoot.  So try and wire that stuff up consistently.

i just meant,does it matter if i use A as the live tab or does it need to attach to C instead.   

[PL1]

Different manufacturers use different physical layouts/orientations -- that's why you should always verify electrical connections before hooking them up.

So you're saying that with your switch:

 - With the switch set to "off", the meter doesn't beep (no continuity) when you connect the leads to A and C or B and D.

 - With the switch set to "on", the meter beeps (continuity) when you connect the leads to A and C or B and D.

That is exactly right. Which from what I've read here is backwards. A beeps when connected to C and B beeps connected to D. The switch still works like a switch. It's just different from what I've seen here. So I got to thinking can I just wire terminals A & B to the IEC plug and then C & D to the cab.

I'll just have A be the black (live wire) or should C be the black (live wire). Does it really matter as long as the wires match up on C & D?

Continuity indicates a direct connection.

Since the meter beeps (continuity) when you connect the leads to A and C on your switch, connect the black wires to A and C and the white wires to B and D. (Or white on A and C and black on B and D  )

As long as you have matching wire colors on the tabs that connect to each other, you'll be fine. (hot to hot, neutral to neutral)

Since you don't have a lamp in your switch, it doesn't matter if you use A or C for the input -- it's not polarized.

Use an outlet tester to avoid the problems that PBJ and Haruman mentioned.   


Scott

[Homietheclown]

Thank you. I just needed an expert's opinion before I proceeded.

Sorry about the accident Haramun.  I take electricity very seriously. It's hard to believe someone would wire a plug that way. So much for paying attention .

[eds1275]

The BEST method? Merely superconductor electromagnetism. Surely you've heard of it. It levitates bullet trains from Tokyo to Osaka. It levitates my desk, where I ride the saddle of the world. And it levitates... me!

[Homietheclown]

The BEST method? Merely superconductor electromagnetism. Surely you've heard of it. It levitates bullet trains from Tokyo to Osaka. It levitates my desk, where I ride the saddle of the world. And it levitates... me!

Oh. Does Bison know your using his levitation? He might psycho crush you if he finds out.