Heavy Victory Ikari Time Barrel Warrior Soldiers Road 'Cammo Edition'

[Maximus]

In other parts of the build I now have a working Heavy Barrel board (and a broken one  ) and I have a proper Happ 15A supply inbound as the crappy generic 11A Samsunsueytronic one I had in there couldn't handle powering both boards at once.

I pulled the broken Heavy Barrel board for now and found that the Ikari worked fine plugged into the Jamma switcher on it's own with the crappy PSU powering it, also the squealing noise was gone from the monitor, so hopefully the new Happ supply will do the job well for both of these boards.

Wired up the coin door.

Fizgig is sending me a replacement LS-30 for my P1 joystick that is a little glitchy, he had a nice one knocking around so he's throwing it my way (Thanks Fizz).

Once the project is finished I'll gather together all the extra bits and pieces in the hope of refurbing them one day, I'll have 3 rotary sticks, 1 slightly biffy Heavy Barrel board, a couple of marquees and some random bezels for the pile 'o pieces box.

[yotsuya]

Did you have to buy a new Heavy Barrel board?

[Maximus]

Yeah that was an expensive lesson in Jamma harnesses. Fortunately I got one for $70 shipped from a KLOVer who hooked me up, could have been worse.

[yotsuya]

I bought a handful of JAMMA keys from Bob Roberts to avoid that lesson.

[HaRuMaN]

I just... you know... look at them and hook them up the right way.   

[HaRuMaN]

That's very busy.

+1

What's the stock one look like?  I'm guessing no camo?

[Maximus]

Here's Fizgig's very nice repro which is done to the original format

[HaRuMaN]

^ Hmm.  Stock is kinda dull.  I can see why you wanted to spice it up.

[Maximus]

Yep most of the ikari Warriors were kits for retrofitting existing cabs, the only ones that shipped from the factory came in the generic Dynamo HS-1 black cabinets and the still used the same basic kit.

[Vigo]

Maybe my memory is failing me, but did the conversions generally instruct for left and and right hand buttons for each player? I don't recall seeing that at all.

[Maximus]

Maybe my memory is failing me, but did the conversions generally instruct for left and and right hand buttons for each player? I don't recall seeing that at all.

Probably not, I guess they just had one set of buttons per player.

[PL1]

These new headers, because ---fudgesicle--- it I may as well start over...
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DKSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=134141228&uq=635106966231654104

And this for the Perfboard (finally worked out the right term for this stuff)
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DKSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=134142909&uq=635106981113818017

Links broken.   


Scott

[Maximus]

balls. I hate the internet. and components. and soldering things. oh well I ordered them already, so we'll see what happens.

[Maximus]

Good news. Happ power supply has enough amps to power both boards properly.

Bad news. Happ power supply has enough amps to fry the cheap ---smurfy--- switcher I bought on ebay.

FML

[Minwah]

I like the original and the camo edition. The only other thing I can think of which would look pretty good would be to paint the cabinet 'army' matt green. Bit of a compromise between the plain black and in yer face camo.

[Rick]

The only other thing I can think of which would look pretty good would be to paint the cabinet 'army' matt green.

Army Matt... G.I. Joe's second cousin. The one we don't talk about.

[HaRuMaN]

Perhaps he means od green:

[Le Chuck]

Bonus point to the house member that can name what the OD stands for without googling.

[HaRuMaN]

Bonus point to the house member that can name what the OD stands for without googling.

please.  Olive drab. 

[Monkeyvoodoo]

My first thought was slang for Ordinary Seaman. But yeah, olive drab.


Sent from a pineapple under the sea

[Maximus]

Meanwhile, back on subject

So yeah, I blew up my cheap switcher I got from eBay, not bad so far I have killed a switcher and a good Heavy Barrel board, I'm on a roll 

But never one to let my stupidity from keeping me from completing a project I bought the last of the Vector Labs multi-board switchers from Mike. Nice thing about the VL setup is that it only powers on the game that you switch too, so no more wrestling with trying to power all the boards at once and certainly less waste having boards running when you aren't playing them, not to mention heat, extra power supplies and all that other crap. It's got some nice extra little features like adding virtual credits for games that don't feature free-play options.

The switcher supports up to 4 boards, so I'm going to build my rotary-harnesses and board mounts around that goal even though I only have 2 right now, there'll be room for a Victory Road and another rotatey game although I'm not sure what else is worth putting in there. (Suggestions).

[Vigo]

Well, sorry to hear this has been a cursed project for ya. My suggestions for a 4th would be guerrilla war or Time soldiers.

[Superfrog]

Midnight Resistance...

I loved that game.
Played it on my last pc based bartop, and I could it play with a normal stick.
But on my xbox Popeye bartop, I need a rotary stick to play the game 

 I like your version better than the original version of the cab

[Zero_Hour]

Well, sorry to hear this has been a cursed project for ya. My suggestions for a 4th would be guerrilla war or Time soldiers.

Time soldiers FTW. It's the reason I have a pair of NOS ls-30's sitting in my garage. Another suggestion would be Bermuda Triangle.

[harveybirdman]

Caliber .50!!!!!

[jackiabu]

Here we go, all the cab and exterior is 99% complete

Great job men! just perfect i like the background side art

I myself have done a month ago to build a machine style IKARI http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,132545.0.html

[Maximus]

Ok lets try this again shall we

[PL1]

Looks like each solder pad is isolated with no connectng traces.

Have you verified that with your ohmmeter yet?

Have you planned the connector/diode/jumper layout?


Scott

[Maximus]

Yep they are isolated. And my soldering is getting better

Here's a crazy idea, I'm going to test it before I go any further

[PL1]

Looks good so far.


Scott

[Maximus]

Yep it worked with my makeshift harness. Now to make a cable. I think I am possibly the worlds worst crimper

[Maximus]

Yep took me over an hour to make one harness. I was getting better toward the end though. Wax on. Wax off.

[Maximus]

And that didn't work because I forgot the pin pitch and size is slightly different on the sticks and boards. I have to chop the harnesses and put my new connectors on the end.

Man I need more sleep.

[Nephasth]

You know, there's this one guy... that makes custom harnesses for members here...

[Maximus]

Yeah I asked him and he just said he was all out and left it at that so I figured I'd just have to make my own.

[Nephasth]

Franco B? His work is top notch! (and linked in my previous post)

[Maximus]

Franco B? His work is top notch! (and linked in my previous post)

Ahhhh I thought you were referring to someone grumpier and uglier.

Any hooooooo

Board is all done, not bad for a nub



If anything this project is teaching me to solder better.

[Nephasth]

Ahhhh I thought you were referring to someone grumpier and uglier.

No, ---fudgesicle--- that guy. He doesn't know what the hell he's doing.

[Maximus]

I had enough diodes  left so I figured I'd finish the board for 6 game support.  Tomorrow ill start on the harnesses and mounts.

[Nephasth]

Between each header (except the last one and the one above it) there are 25 traces. You sure you got your circuitry right?

Scott had another diagram up that showed it better, but if you look close in this one, you'll see that the diodes don't go from pin to pin, but instead from one pin on a header that goes to a board and then to a trace that goes all the way to the joystick header (hence the offset in Scott's diagram). I think you might run into an issue with multiple games connected to your rotary board.