Power connector question

[mariox2098]

So for my current build, I wanted to buy something like this pictured below and mount it to the back so I could have a removable power cord.

Then I would like to connect a power strip to that on the inside, which has the usual 3 prong power outlet plug. I have been looking for adapters for that but i cant seem to find any Female-to-Female ones, which I think are IEC C14 Female to NEMA 5 Female. This is the closest thing I could find here: http://www.cyberguys.com/product-details/?productid=32922

Has anyone else done this before or have any advice on what I should be looking for or whether I can use the adapter above to make this work? Thanks

[Nephasth]

Cut the plug off of a power strip, and solder the wires to the back of that connector.

[dfmaverick]

Has anyone else done this before or have any advice on what I should be looking for or whether I can use the adapter above to make this work? Thanks

Take a look at Maximus' current donkey kong barrel build for an example of something similar in use.

[JDFan]

Cut the plug off of a power strip, and solder the wires to the back of that connector.

+1 -- and if you don't have a solder iron you can just strip the 3 wires push each through the holes in the connector and wrap them tightly so they hold in place and then tape them in place ( or use a small piece of shrink wrap tubing on each end and shrink into place after wrapping the wire into place )

Or if you have an old unused PSU sitting around you can pull the connector out of it ( with the old wires already soldered in place ) and then splice those to the powerstrip cord after cutting the connector off of it !

[PL1]

if you don't have a solder iron you can just strip the 3 wires push each through the holes in the connector and wrap them tightly so they hold in place and then tape them in place ( or use a small piece of shrink wrap tubing on each end and shrink into place after wrapping the wire into place )

I'd STRONGLY recommend against this.

Any power connection needs to have a strong mechanical connection as well as the electrical connection.

If the mechanical connection eventually becomes a bit loose, it can become a high-resistance joint and cause an electrical fire.

If you don't use solder, you might be able to use .25" Quick Disconnects.


Scott

[Unstupid]

I use these:


Easy to mount, have built in fuse and lighted switch.  I get them from here:
http://www.amazon.com/Amico-IEC320-Module-Switch-Socket/dp/B0050HH70E

[Maximus]

[mariox2098]

I use these:


Easy to mount, have built in fuse and lighted switch.  I get them from here:
http://www.amazon.com/Amico-IEC320-Module-Switch-Socket/dp/B0050HH70E

This is perfect. Thanks for all the information everyone.
Also, Unstupid, is this the same as the one you posted?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DS1NC0/

[mgb]

The one thing to remember if you order those from amazon, they are an add on item so you have to order other stuff. You can't just order one.


I like to actually  wire from the power module to an outlet that I mount in the cabinet. Not a big deal but it makes a nice clean install.

[Maximus]

The one thing to remember if you order those from amazon, they are an add on item so you have to order other stuff. You can't just order one.

I thought it was just that you couldn't get them shipped for free with Amazon Prime on their own. I'm pretty sure you can buy just one you just have to pay for shipping.

[CoryBee]

The one thing to remember if you order those from amazon, they are an add on item so you have to order other stuff. You can't just order one.

I thought it was just that you couldn't get them shipped for free with Amazon Prime on their own. I'm pretty sure you can buy just one you just have to pay for shipping.

^^^^^^^^^

[mgb]

The one thing to remember if you order those from amazon, they are an add on item so you have to order other stuff. You can't just order one.

I thought it was just that you couldn't get them shipped for free with Amazon Prime on their own. I'm pretty sure you can buy just one you just have to pay for shipping.

Oh, I'm sorry. I must have misunderstood it. I actually went to order them once and I thought there was some weird thing like that but I probably took it wrong.

[welash]

If you don't mind waiting for a month to get them, and you need 5, you can get them a little cheaper from dealextreme

http://dx.com/p/2-in1-ac-250v-10a-flat-plug-power-socket-outlet-w-3-pin-on-off-rocker-switch-fuse-5-piece-pack-143505

Shipping does take a while (they first get your order from a supplier in china, and then ship it out via Hong Kong post on a slow boat).  But I don't think I've waited more than about 5 weeks, and that was partly due to the Chinese holidays.

[PL1]

Amazon's "Add-on" items are not the same as "Super Saver Shipping" items.

From the Add-on Item Details Page

To buy Add-on Items:

    Look for the Add-on Item badge while shopping on Amazon.com or the blue title bar around Add to Cart.

    Include the Add-on Item in an order that includes $25 or more of items shipped by Amazon. You can even create an order containing only Add-on Items that totals to $25 or more.

Note: If you have an Add-on Item with less than $25 of items shipped by Amazon.com in your cart, you can check out with the other items. You can also save your Add-on Item in the Saved for Later section for a future order.

Scott

[JDFan]

Yep addon items can onlly be ordered as addons and the order has to be at least $25 but Same item can be found elsewhere though if you don't mind paying the shipping (about the same cost as the item) -- Yahoo shopping has them from Amazon as a regular item as well - It shows approx $5 shipping and $0.50 tax to my zipcode ( http://shopping.yahoo.com/968844668-amico-3-pin-iec320-c14-inlet-module-plug-fuse-switch-male-power-socket-10a-250v/prices;_ylt=AgBat_OAr7jxALSa8Gp2FtbYsr4F?.crumb=PJnFNLDzXKM&country=US&ts=1 ) 

[mgb]

So back in post #9, was I correct in my original thinking?

[PL1]

So back in post #9, was I correct in my original thinking?

The one thing to remember if you order those from amazon, they are an add on item so you have to order other stuff. You can't just order one.

Correct.  Total of $25 of items shipped by Amazon required.


Scott

[mgb]

Well then, I rescind my apology in post #12.

Just kidding

[Maximus]

Huh, never thought of it like that as I always use Prime, but it does of course give you the option to buy single units from other Amazon vendors like this for example...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00511QVVK/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new

So technically YES you can buy singles, just not those add-on specific listings.

[shponglefan]

if you don't have a solder iron you can just strip the 3 wires push each through the holes in the connector and wrap them tightly so they hold in place and then tape them in place ( or use a small piece of shrink wrap tubing on each end and shrink into place after wrapping the wire into place )

I'd STRONGLY recommend against this.

Any power connection needs to have a strong mechanical connection as well as the electrical connection.

If the mechanical connection eventually becomes a bit loose, it can become a high-resistance joint and cause an electrical fire.

Ditto what PL1 said.  When you are wiring up something which runs high-voltage AC current, you do NOT want to risk a loose connection.

[roknrol]

@ Maximus: Are those 0.25" quick disconnects?

[Maximus]

I think so, I pinch em down hard before putting them on so they are crazy tight

[Unstupid]

Aur you using electrical tape to hold the socket in place?

[Maximus]

It's glued in place

[Kit444]

I'm not having any luck wiring this.  Here are some pics.  Is it possible to put the fuse in wrong?

[PL1]

I'm not having any luck wiring this.  Here are some pics.  Is it possible to put the fuse in wrong?

As long as the fuse is the right physical size/making solid contact at both ends/not already blown, it should be fine -- you can't put it in backwards.

Looks like you have one of these illuminated switches with a neon lamp . . .




. . . that hooks up like this.  NL is the neon lamp in the switch.  Pin 2 is ground (not shown) which looks properly connected in your pics above.



Scott

EDIT: On second glance, it looks like you have a different switch module. (The rest of the unit is pretty much standard, but different companies use different switches.)

Is the switch illuminated or plain?

Can you test with a multimeter to see what terminals are connected when the switch is in the off and on positions? (with no power applied and the wires removed)

If you don't mind I'd also like to also include pics/diagram (like above) of your power switch in the wiki for others to follow once we figure it out.   

[Kit444]

It's the Amico IEC320 mentioned earlier in the thread.  I wired it like I saw it pictured in the photo someone posted.  Here's a pic from the other side of the inlet.  It is illuminated.

I don't have a multimeter.  Just a cheap voltage tester that lights up if there's voltage.  I'm getting voltage on all the terminals either way the switch is turned.

You can use the photos.  Please excuse my gnarled hackmanship on the hole in the wood.

Thanks.

[PL1]

I don't have a multimeter.

You should rectify that sitution post haste.   

Harbor Freight has some cheap meters like this one and sometimes they send out coupons offering a meter for free with any purchase.

If you need to make an improvised continuity (connection) meter, you can use an encoder. (IPAC, KADE, Keywiz, etc.)

Unplug the power cord from the IEC320 and use Notepad or Keyboard Tester and an input wire and a ground wire from the encoder to see if there is continuity between terminals on the switch.

If there's continuity, the associated keystroke will register.   


Scott