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Author Topic: The Retro-Geo project  (Read 9224 times)

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fablog

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The Retro-Geo project
« on: April 30, 2013, 10:51:34 pm »
Hi everyone,

Thanks to this forum and your help I've started my own first project. I was a total noob in woodwork, without any tools. 
I was in a hurry because I had 5 weeks to do a big part of this project (my wife was gone with my newborn to visit family in her country).

So far it's what I have done. it's a Mame Project clone, slightly modified...Thank you so much Koenig for sharing your drawings  :applaud:
I hope to be able to finish this summer because with an 8 months old baby, a teenager and a wife, free time is very difficult to find.

Cement glue on side:


Side Slot cut (with some mistakes):


Formica applied and router flush trimed:


Testing wheels on base:


Holes drilled for wheels:


The other side of the base:


The 2 sides glued and screwed to the base:


As you can see I countersunk the bottom from outside and used black screws (not perfect but quicker):


Arcade mounted on his wheels:


Front:


Back:



Well, it's not perfect but it's beyond my expectations. I'm very proud after all those years reading this forum  :cheers:

To be continued...
« Last Edit: July 31, 2018, 04:21:24 pm by fablog »

Drnick

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #1 on: May 01, 2013, 07:54:21 am »
Looking pretty darned good to me  :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:  The laminate really gives that professional finish.

Seith

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #2 on: May 02, 2013, 06:24:10 am »
Nice slim cab so far!

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #3 on: May 09, 2013, 01:12:06 pm »
I don't understand why you first laminate and then apply screws.  ??? If you would have assembled the cabinet first and only afterwards applied the laminate on the sides it would have covered all screws.

sabreerbasAlpha

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #4 on: May 09, 2013, 01:39:41 pm »
I don't understand why you first laminate and then apply screws.  ??? If you would have assembled the cabinet first and only afterwards applied the laminate on the sides it would have covered all screws.

Ive got to ask the same question. What happened did you forget or something. I like the look though, But them screws.. :dizzy: :dunno

fablog

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #5 on: May 11, 2013, 10:50:51 am »
Well, I was in a big hurry, I had only one day to assembly and laminate everything. For some reasons I didn't do the top so, if I wanted to assembly the base with the sides
 and get a solid result, I had to put the back too at this step. The question was how to laminate the back after assembly everything?...it was impossible. Maybe it wasn't the best solution but , for me, it was really acceptable to laminate before the assembly. The screws are black and are only at the bottom, it's not a big deal ant not ugly to see. My friends and family won't seen any problem  :laugh:
Like I said before, I'm very new for manual work and I have few free time. I was very afraid to what I could accomplish with my two hands and I can say that I'm better than what I thought  ;D


« Last Edit: May 11, 2013, 10:52:37 am by fablog »

sabreerbasAlpha

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #6 on: May 11, 2013, 11:15:52 am »
Your off to a good start. I always like the look of the laminate flush cut like that.  :applaud:

fablog

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #7 on: July 30, 2013, 02:18:15 pm »
Hi guys,

I have some time now to follow up on my cab. I need your advice because I will laminate the inside of the cab but only the visible parts of the sides. My intention is to get a 3/4'' side thickness with a 5/8'' MDF + 2 sheets of 1/16'' laminate. Like that I will be able to put a 3/4'' T-molding. My problem is how-to do that after the inside holders (for the top, monitor support, etc.) will be glued? a1pharm did that on his cab (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129725.msg1332544.html#msg1332544), he said he routed off the laminate where he was going to attach the 2x2's... What's the best way to do that?

Thanks!
« Last Edit: July 30, 2013, 03:40:17 pm by fablog »

a1pharm

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #8 on: July 31, 2013, 11:06:35 am »
Hi guys,

I have some time now to follow up on my cab. I need your advice because I will laminate the inside of the cab but only the visible parts of the sides. My intention is to get a 3/4'' side thickness with a 5/8'' MDF + 2 sheets of 1/16'' laminate. Like that I will be able to put a 3/4'' T-molding. My problem is how-to do that after the inside holders (for the top, monitor support, etc.) will be glued? a1pharm did that on his cab (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129725.msg1332544.html#msg1332544), he said he routed off the laminate where he was going to attach the 2x2's... What's the best way to do that?

Thanks!

To route the laminate:

Use a plunge router.  Set the depth to be the same as the thickness of the laminate (1/16" in this build).  Use the guide that comes with the router, to set the distance from the side of the panel.  Use a 1/2" cutting bit.  Remember: you have some "fudge" room, because the thickness of the front/back panels will cover any small imperfections.

Let me know if this isn't making sense; I could snap some picks of what I'm talking about when I get some time.

Cheers!
 :cheers:

fablog

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #9 on: July 31, 2013, 08:38:55 pm »

Pics could be usefull for sure!

Thanks a1pharm  ;D

fablog

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #10 on: August 14, 2013, 05:42:20 pm »
My router is with a fixed base not a plunge. Is it possible to route off the formica like you said?
« Last Edit: August 14, 2013, 05:44:08 pm by fablog »

rablack97

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #11 on: August 14, 2013, 11:17:07 pm »
My question is why didn't you just laminate inside and outside with full sheets?

I've seen a few folks accomplish the piece method for the inside of the cab, but it was hella hard.

Plunge router allows you to set a depth and push the router down into the material, and then move it along a straight edge to complete the line.

You fixed base can do the same, being the depth is on 1/16 of an inch, you should be able to turn on your router and gently guide the router down into the material before continuing the cut...

It's like using a circular saw to cut into the middle of 4X8 piece of lumber.



   

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fablog

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #12 on: August 15, 2013, 05:54:35 pm »
Rablack, I was in a hurry when I laminated the exterior. Not enough time to to the interior, so...
Thanks for your advice about the router, will try it.

fablog

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #13 on: August 15, 2013, 08:37:51 pm »
Today I screwed 2 European hinges to the kick plate.
Do you think it's enough for a 33'X27' piece of 1/2" MDF or a third hinge is safer

fablog

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #14 on: April 07, 2014, 07:06:12 pm »
I put a third one. It weight 5kg!! I'm scared to put this weight on one side of the cabinet. What do you think?






I glued the side sticks for the monitor support. I used a polyurethane gorilla glue directly on the formica.




Here the vesa mount before to be screwed.


So much to do and so few time. I hope to finish before my retirement (I'm 36). 😁

Is it necessary to put a primer or something else on the raw MDF inside the cab?
« Last Edit: April 07, 2014, 09:27:40 pm by fablog »

fablog

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #15 on: April 24, 2014, 03:15:28 pm »
Any suggestions?

Louis Tully

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #16 on: April 24, 2014, 03:35:57 pm »
.
« Last Edit: February 12, 2015, 05:05:08 pm by Louis Tully »

fablog

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #17 on: April 29, 2014, 09:48:29 pm »
Thanks Louis Tully. I'm wondering if I screw the door directly to the side or it would be better to put another layer of wood on the side before. It's 5/8" MDF, I'm afraid the side is to thin for this weight. What do you think?

For the inside, I prefer to let it raw. Nobody will see it.

Sorry if my English is not as good as I would like. I hope everybody can understand me  ;D


Louis Tully

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #18 on: April 30, 2014, 04:04:02 am »
.
« Last Edit: February 12, 2015, 05:08:02 pm by Louis Tully »

fablog

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #19 on: August 21, 2015, 11:09:19 pm »
2 weeks alone at home and my project progressed a lot.
My friend Nicolas helped me, he's cutting the coin door hole on the picture. He's a professional wood worker so everything was so easy for him. We fixed the supports for the CP and fixed the monitor at the right height. I changed my mind about the keyboard drawer, I taked it out, I will keep this cabinet simple.  No more front door too. Thanks Nicolas for your precious help!!
« Last Edit: August 22, 2015, 12:15:19 pm by fablog »

fablog

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #20 on: August 21, 2015, 11:27:20 pm »
We cut a back door hole. It was too much trouble without. Now, it's not necessary to have a front door, this part will be fixed.
« Last Edit: August 22, 2015, 12:15:54 pm by fablog »

fablog

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #21 on: August 22, 2015, 12:21:55 pm »
The next step is to buy a glass. I think about a 1/8" one. The local glass store give me the advice to buy a clear glass, check the dimensions and make adjustments if necessary. After that I could go to a specialised shop who can stick a tinted film on it. What do you think about that, anyone tried that with success?

rablack97

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #22 on: August 22, 2015, 04:24:31 pm »
no man go smoked....cuts the glare down on the screen....not tinted with like a car, but smoked

 i think there is smoke grey or something its not black but smoked just enough to where its not clear..
   

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fablog

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #23 on: August 22, 2015, 11:18:12 pm »
Rablack97 why do you think that? What interested me with doing like that is that it will be more secure. I know I could temper a smoked glass but the provider won't accept a glass I tested the dimensions before. I will have the obligation to order them the whole thing and hope it will enter in my cabinet. I know that the width of my cabinet is not the same everywhere so I would like to do this part in two steps.
« Last Edit: August 22, 2015, 11:20:15 pm by fablog »

rablack97

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #24 on: August 23, 2015, 12:11:38 am »
Ok you seem to know your way around with tools etc....and im sure you own a measuring tape.

Measure the area inside your cab you want the glass to cover......measure 5-10 times if you have to.

The film will peel over time and it will look like crap.  I've done a few cabs and i have not screwed up and wasted a whole piece.

Glass cutters can get what you need w/i like 1/32 of an inch, its pretty accurate.

Go get some foam cardboard hobby lobby or a stiff piece of cardboard, take your measurements transfer that to the carboard, and keep playing around with it until you get the fit you need.

Take that to the glass cutter and say, match the glass to this template.

   

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fablog

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #25 on: August 23, 2015, 12:27:12 am »
Good advice, I'll try the cardboard. It could be difficult to be super accurate measuring inside. Thanks

rablack97

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #26 on: August 23, 2015, 09:48:09 am »
nope just measure from inner edge to inner edge of your sides, top middle bottom.  measure from the front where tmoulding will go.

you'll do fine, its all trial and error, what you dont want is put in all this work and in a year it looks like crap......take your time and do you due diligence it will pay off later.
   

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fablog

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #27 on: August 23, 2015, 10:24:15 am »
Thanks for the support rablack97 :)

fablog

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #28 on: October 25, 2015, 07:33:04 pm »
Another step done today. My friend Paulo helped me a lot with a very good idea for the glass mount. We used an U-shaped aluminium profile and bend edges to give a it a L-shape. It works like a charm as you can see with the pictures.
The glass is a light grey 1/8 tempered one.
The next step is to finish the CP. Anyone has a real dimensions drawing of a U-Track?


fablog

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #29 on: November 11, 2015, 10:49:56 pm »
I worked on the CP today. My friend Paulo did the design below using the sega Player 1 and 2 layouts from Slagcoin. Staples did the printing and I cut all the holes.  A great team work! I did the joysticks and pushbuttons holes with a forstner bit and my drill. The big U-trak hole was done with a router and a Jasper guide.
« Last Edit: November 12, 2015, 06:44:49 am by fablog »

fablog

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #30 on: November 22, 2015, 10:47:00 am »
Leds wiring done! I used molex and it was much harder than what I thought.
« Last Edit: November 22, 2015, 10:50:36 am by fablog »

fablog

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #31 on: November 22, 2015, 11:08:11 am »
The tools I used.

fablog

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #32 on: November 22, 2015, 10:35:44 pm »
I used threaded insert to mount the 2 U360. It was my first time with inserts and I practiced a lot with spare MDF before. The more important was to find the correct drill bit for the pilot hole. It was a lot of stress when I begin to drill in the real CP :) I had to be careful to not drill to much because the other side is laminated. You can fill MDF with Bondo but not with laminate!!
« Last Edit: November 22, 2015, 10:55:42 pm by fablog »

fablog

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #33 on: November 22, 2015, 11:00:49 pm »
The U-trak was a little bit more complicated because you have to identify where will be the the insert holes. I put black sharpie ink on the U-Track back and put it on the MDF to do marks. It was good enough.
The Ultimarc U-trak threaded inserts are very good but if you want to practice with them, don't forget that you cannot pull them out easily, they are pushed inside and not screwed.
« Last Edit: November 22, 2015, 11:14:54 pm by fablog »

fablog

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #34 on: November 22, 2015, 11:27:18 pm »
As seen on the Flynn's Arcade and Nephasth project, I modified my IL pushbuttons from Arcade Paradise. The led's wire are cut if you use their leafswitch as is, no problem with other switch. You have to put them lower in the pushbuttons drilling another hole. It's easy but you have to be careful to not drill the wires during the operation.
« Last Edit: November 24, 2015, 07:02:07 am by fablog »

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #35 on: November 23, 2015, 09:43:22 am »
Good job on making sure the monitor fits the design without looking ridiculous, are you going to mask it to 4:3 with a bezel?


Also, very tastefully done LEDs my friend.

fablog

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #36 on: November 23, 2015, 11:59:27 am »
Thanks :)
I plan to use the monitor on widescreen for games like MK. I'll mask the glass's back to 16:10 with black paint.
« Last Edit: November 23, 2015, 12:01:22 pm by fablog »

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #37 on: November 23, 2015, 10:22:48 pm »
This cab is looking very sweet. The laminate looks great.
as aside note, if you haven't done anything with those bottom screws through the laminate, one way you may hide them is by having a metal kick plate kinda thing around the three sides.

Those buttons don't come with the LEDs in them??
what leds are you using?

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #38 on: November 23, 2015, 11:26:34 pm »
As seen on the Flynn's Arcade project, I modified my IL pushbuttons from Arcade Paradise. The led's wire are cut if you use their leafswitch as is, no problem with other switch. You have to put them lower in the pushbuttons drilling another hole. It's easy but you have to be careful to not drill the wires in the operation.

Yeah, when Nephasth originally did that modification to those LEDs on The Beast many years ago, I knew I had to do it too. It worked out great.
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

fablog

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Re: My noname project
« Reply #39 on: November 24, 2015, 06:55:21 am »
Good idea mgb I'll really think about it. The buttons came with the led inside, they are IL-lumination RGB 5VDC led's from Arcade Paradise. I don't think they are really compatible with leaf switch, you will cut the wire. No problem with another kind of witch.