5. Assembling the Parts:
-- Flipper button placement
The first time my father used this controller, he asked why I didn’t put the ball launch button to the right of the shooter so you can keep your fingers on the flippers while launching the ball with your right thumb.
I’ll be adding a button in this location soon and wiring it in parallel with the current one.
-- Keyboard
In order to hold the back of the keyboard in place without modifying it, I used some leftover curtain rod holders.
A small cutout was required to prevent the left holder from rubbing on the escape key.
The holders are fastened to a piece of 1 x 2 which is later fastened to an L-bracket attached to the case.
In order to seat the keyboard with no gaps, make small cutouts for the holders . . .
. . .and cable (small notch on inside back edge) . . .
. . . so it seats like this.
The front part of the keyboard is supported by L-brackets and the leading edge is held down by angle aluminum with rounded corners. Weather-stripping ensures a snug, gap-free fit and acts as a grommet for the mouse cable.
-- Shooter
Place the shooter housing high enough that the bottom of the housing is at or above the bottom edge of the front side and low enough that the shooter shaft won’t hit the keyboard. Remember that there is quite a bit of wiggle both horizontally and vertically . . . for now . . . so make sure you are measuring from the center of the range of motion.
Once you know where you want to mount the shooter, drill a hole large enough for the part of the shooter housing that the plunger passes through. (Center top of the “T”)
Next, insert the shooter housing and rotate/align it so it is square with the front face. Carefully trace around the 3 mounting screw posts and drill/route/file/saw as needed to make the T-shaped hole.
Once you have that hole, mount the shooter to the plate using the 3 machine screws. Ensure the shooter is positioned and aligned correctly before you mark and drill the holes for the wood screws (next to the purple wire below) that will hold the plate in place if the shooter is removed. This will allow you to reattach the shooter in the exact same position and orientation as it was before.
-- Shooter mouse
- X-axis positioning
Once the Shooter is mounted to the front, determine where to trim the 1x6 so the shooter mouse sensor is aligned to the shooter shaft’s natural center position. The further you are from that natural center, the more likely you will experience friction and wear problems at the shooter housing.
- Y-axis positioning
The mouse sensor should be at the end of the shaft when the plunger is pulled full back . . .
and the plunger must be able to move full forward without hitting the back wall.
The board the shooter mouse is mounted on must be clear of the bent wire, washer and spring when the shooter is pushed to the full forward position. That’s why the edge of the board under the shaft looks chipped – I was 1/8” off on the clearance and had to trim the board.
- Z-axis positioning
Set the height so the shooter shaft rests flat on the face of the mouse and is as close as possible to the natural center of vertical deflection to avoid friction and binding between the shaft and the housing.
Mount the front L-brackets first then pivot on those brackets to ensure that the shooter shaft lies as flat as possible along the face of the mouse. Once the angle is perfect, mark, drill and attach the back brackets.
- “Mini-Stonehenge” guide
To keep the shooter shaft always over the sensor, use side guides made from 1/4" PEX pipe (plastic water pipe) and button head wood screws positioned to keep the shaft from moving side-to-side.
A metal crosspiece keeps the shaft from rising up and away from the shooter mouse sensor. A piece of plastic cut from the side panel of a milk jug and placed underneath the metal prevents metal on metal grinding.
Carefully trim slivers off the ends of the PEX until there is minimal vertical and horizontal wiggle room, but the shaft can move forward and back smoothly and freely.
When you get it properly positioned and aligned, it works like this.
Download either the
Zipped MPG or
Zipped WMV-- Hub
The hub is held in place using either flat-head wood or drywall screws and sections of 1/4” PEX pipe. As the screws tighten, the angled bottom of the screw provides outward force on the PEX to hold the hub in place. Start with the two screws on either side of the hub cable (bottom), then the top, followed by the left and right.
-- Wire management
Loop clamps and zip-ties every 4-6” keep everything neat and organized.
Curves in the wire allow enough slack to remove and reinstall connectors as needed.
Ensure that wires will not make contact with the shooter.
-- USB connection
I originally fed the hub wire out the back using the slot on the bottom edge and a rubber strain relief boot, but was worried that the hub wire would be damaged during transport. It looked ugly, too.
The answer is the Neutrik USB A-B feedthru.
-- Bottom cover and feet
1/4” cover held on by rubber feet, 10-32 machine screws, and clip-on 10-32 nutplates attached to L-brackets.
Here is a side cross sectional view.
To minimize the amount they can turn, attach the nutplates to the hole closer to the bend. If you use the other hole, they can turn almost 3/4 of the way around before the bend of the nutplate hits the side of the L-bracket and stops it from turning.
Scott