Scratch - Marvel v Capcom: Revolution - Complete with tour video

[PL1]

Sorry about the slow response, I just now got back to your thread.  Looks like you have several good power connection suggestions.  Let me know if there's anything else I can do to help.

Once you get the power connections all sorted out, I'd like to get a clear diagram of how you connected it so we can eventually upload it into the wiki. (Rablack97 and I spent a while with a telephone and multimeter figuring out how to properly connect his.)

another 4GB stick of ram to take the system up to 8GB as it x64. I was having problems getting future pinball tables to load and think it is due to the onboard graphics sharing system RAM, so decided to bump it.

I hope that works for you, but you may still need the extra oomph of a separate video card, especially for some of the FP tables.      If it looks like the upgrade works, check your framerates to be sure. (Press "F9" while in FP)

I made a promise to myself that I wouldn't start building the controller until the rest of the cab is built and configured.

A truly wise move.   


Scott

[mcseforsale]

Yes. Because a completed CP is the death of many projects.   


HAHAHAHAHAHA

AJ

[griffindodd]

Yeah I didn't need anything else leeching away at my time before the cab was finished lol.

A few little steps forward today, the smart strip arrived so I got that installed and it is awesome, the whole cab comes alive now when I press the ATX power button on the computer, lights, speakers/sub both monitors it's great, and of course they all turn off when I power down the PC.  Also as the strip has some 'always hot' outlets I leave the ethernet over power box plugged into that so I can wake the cab on LAN if I need to.

Extra memory arrived so I'm up to 8GB now which should be plenty, still having trouble with Hyperpin taking a long time to load and future pinball just crashes constantly. These issues may be related to the Intel HD4000 onboard GPU which should become a non issue as I will have to put in an eyefinity card if I am going to run my third monitor/touchscreen on the controller.

i revisited the computer mount as the acrylic legs I made just weren't up to the job and as they wouldn't even be seen they were kinda pointless. So I dove back into the garage and put together something a little less pretty but much more reliable


Mounted in place, much better. The mounting plate LEDs cycle through all kinds of colors on their own now in the CPU area of the cab, I'm just going to leave it like this as it looks pretty nice and is turnkey.

[griffindodd]

Scott I'll definitely let you know once I have it wired up, I have to go to the store and find a fuse for it as they come without one 

[PL1]

Check the size, it may be a hard to find 5x20mm.

Here are two 10A, 250V slow blow possibilities.

http://www.amazon.com/BUSSMANN-SCHURTER-Delay-5X20mm-QUALITY/dp/B007ZE8MJ0

http://www.amazon.com/BUSSMANN-5x20mm-Slow-Blow-CERAMIC-Quality/dp/B007N6QAH6


Scott

[griffindodd]

My backglass monitor has been acting up, it was an old one from the shelf in the back room here at work, it has a couple of dead pixels and it got to the point where I have to give it a gentle slap to get it to turn on, so that's no good. Fortunately working in IT there is no shortage of old 15" 4:3s lying around that nobody wants any more. So I grabbed another, tested it and gutted it, hopefully it will sit in the channel I already have routed for the existing one.

[griffindodd]

http://www.amazon.com/BUSSMANN-SCHURTER-Delay-5X20mm-QUALITY/dp/B007ZE8MJ0

Thanks Scott I just ordered the glass ones

[rablack97]

http://www.amazon.com/BUSSMANN-SCHURTER-Delay-5X20mm-QUALITY/dp/B007ZE8MJ0

Thanks Scott I just ordered the glass ones

They have these at Radio shack, go figure...

[griffindodd]

Oh well they are in the mail so I guess I'll just wait for them, that's ok because i've got wood to chop!!!!!!!

Got a head start on my full 'cab day' tomorrow by squeezing in a trip to Kinkos to get my side templates plotted and also swiping some time while the baby slept to start cutting. (I was on baby duty today as my wife is training for a half iron man and coaching hockey all day)

I had to get my template printed in two pieces and splice them as my cab depth is 39", I hate splicing together templates like that as the opportunity for something to go wrong is amplified by a billion. After a bunch of double and triple checking I used spray mount to align the pieces on the MDF


Time to start jigsawing, slow and steady.


First side came out well with hardly any sanding needed, I like to think of myself as a bit of a ninja with a jigsaw


Tomorrow is a full cab day so I hope to get both sides matched, laminated and hopefully hung on the frame.

[rablack97]

  messed

[griffindodd]

messed

Lol you must get through a lot of pants

[rablack97]

Stop posting arcade porn then.........


Great work man.........one of the best builds i've seen so far.....

[griffindodd]

Awwww thanks Texas, just for that I have more pics for you...

Big day today, time to make the sides and get them laminated. I've never picked up a router before starting this project and certainly have never worked with laminate, slot cutting or basically anything that I have to do to make these panels. But, thanks to the awesome members of this forum, I feel like I am well armed with information and guidance and will be able to do this the right way.

Step one, start with a flush trim bit that you could cut a tree in half with. I have to plug Whiteside router bits, these things are amazing!!!!!!


Screwed the panel I made last night to the second sheet of 5/8" MDF, rough cut it with a jigsaw and then attacked it with the Whiteside flush trim bit, man this thing cut through that 5/8" like it wasn't even there, a hot knife through butter


Sing along "One of these things is just like the other ones...."


Now the stress starts to build, I knew that cutting the slots was a critical piece of the project and they had to be perfect. A plunge router is not the best tool for this job, but it's what I have, it took me about 15 minutes of constant readjusting and testing on a scrap piece. Once I was happy it was time to do the real deal and once again that Whiteside slot cutter flew through the wood like it wasn't even there, I was thrilled with the result. A big part of this was using  13" offset extension on the router base which gives an amazing amount of stability and confidence for the amateur router master.


Slot cutting done, time to lay out the laminate in the sun and let it warm up so it's nice an flexible


I took a tip from a forum member here and ditched contact cement for this stuff, which is just fantastic


This stuff sprays like Spiderman's webs, it's the creepiest glue the world have ever seen


Glued and flush trimmed on the first side, this is coming along really great, I'm thrilled that following the guidance of the other forum members here, I am getting the results that they got too.

[griffindodd]

for the first time I am seeing the wonder of using laminate on a cab, man this stuff looks great.


Gluing the second side on, I trimmed the laminate by hand with an exacto knife leaving about 3/4" around the wood so I can flush trim it with the Godzilla router bit.


5 hours of cutting, routing, sanding gluing, more routing, more gluing, more routing and I have two glorious perfect matching, double laminated and slotted sides.


I think I have earned a beer or three 

[rablack97]

 

nuff said...........lol, i'd like to see you do something your really good at.....you always seems to hint at how you've never done something yet it comes out immaculate.......as we say in Texas the BullS**T is getting pretty thick.......

 

[griffindodd]

Lol, well I'll take that as a compliment. The truth is I haven't done any of this before, but I have spent countless hours reading these forums over and over again and thinking about the knowledge I have learned from the people here, so by the time I pick up the tools to do the job, I have already done it a thousand times in my head, it seems to help the process. But I think the biggest lesson I keep learning from this project is, take your time, don't rush and use the right tools for the job (also don't by cheap tools, they will screw up your work).

Now I can go ahead and order the artwork for the sides and marquee from from GOG.

[rablack97]

Just giving you a hard time.......I did the exact same thing on my build.......Keep it up....

Yep, GOG is spot on, just had some work done by them.......very nice, quality work...

[Aurich]

I'm not usually a fan of the rotating monitor concept, but wow, this project made me reconsider. The half tone dots rotating with it inside the + negative space was a genius move too, really help sells it.

[griffindodd]

I'm not usually a fan of the rotating monitor concept, but wow, this project made me reconsider. The half tone dots rotating with it inside the + negative space was a genius move too, really help sells it.

Thanks. Yeah I understand what you mean about the rotating monitors, they never looked right to me because they always had to sit in the middle of a big space to accommodate the rotation, the monitors always looked kinda lost in that black space, that's what prompted the experimenting with the art and the final implementation that I settled on.

[griffindodd]

I prepped all the artwork for GOG today and will be uploading it tonight, just the flat file for one side is 370mb compressed, 800mb when open in Pshop as it's 72"x40" at 300dpi - so yeah that's going to take a little uploading time. Also have the marquee art ready for them too, all said and done I think I'm looking at about $230 for the two sides and marquee, oh well you gotta pay if you want the best.

[griffindodd]

Mini update:

Artwork all uploaded to GOG for both sides and the marquee, now I just have to wait (I'm really bad at that) for it to arrive, I'm very excited about seeing the artwork in it's full size.

Cleaned up the cab wiring today and installed the replacement backglass monitor. I got real lucky, the new monitor panel dropped straight into the routed channel I had for the old one and looks great, it even works without me having to whack it  and no dead pixels so I'm happy with that.

Cable binding continues to be an off and on problem which is a pain in my buttocks. Because of the rotation structure I can't get the damn cables to come from the center of the setup, but I can't have this problem raising it's head randomly in the future so I'm going to pull the rotation mechanism out and try to rebuild it AGAIN!!!! I may have to spring for a higher torque motor that runs at 12v instead of 6v so it can deal with the added stress of any cable drag. Oh well I have plenty of time before the art arrives so it will keep me busy.

[mcseforsale]

What about running the wires from the outside of the mechanism from the back on a spring loaded arm?  Instead of coming from the center?

AJ

[griffindodd]

What about running the wires from the outside of the mechanism from the back on a spring loaded arm?  Instead of coming from the center?

AJ

I think the main problem is that I can't generate enough torque at the low rotation speed to deal with much more than the rotation of the monitor itself. The motor is rated at 14kg-cm which is really grunty, but I think I am getting way less than that as I am only running it at about 1/8th of full output speed, approx 6rpm instead of it's optimum 52 rpm where it generates maximum torque. Trouble is if I rotate it faster to increase the torque then I get crazy bounce when I hit the limit switches at the end of the 90 degree rotation. Also i have been a naughty boy running this motor at 12v when it is only rated at 6v so I may be damaging it and losing torque to that.

I have an email in to the guys at Pololu describing my problem and asking what they would recommend for this direct drive solution. Really it's just a matter of finding the right motor for the application, this one worked well for the quick and dirty prototyping but now it looks like I have to go back and find something much more scientifically chosen for the application.

I'm not very good at all the math, but basically I need to work out the torque needed to move the 8lb monitor from a dead stop through a rotational distance of approx 24" at a speed of apporx 8" per second. Also you have the effects of the monitors mass on the lazy susan bearing and friction generated from the mass being at an angle of 17 degrees from horizontal

Solution: Get a big ass slow rotating motor

[griffindodd]

After a quick education on torque, current and voltages I managed to find a better suited motor/gearbox combo.

I ordered a 12v motor/gearbox setup that generates 15kg/cm at just under 10 RPM with a draw of 130mA, so I should be getting almost maximum torque at 8rpm which will give me an outer diameter rotational travel speed of approx 12" per second, which translates to approximately 2 seconds to make the 90 degree turn.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00858TMYY/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

Compare that to my current setup that is probably generating a torque of less than 2kg/cm at the same speed, so if my numbers are correct this new motor should give me over 7 times more torque at the same low speed at a proper operating voltage of 12v.

Now I just have to wait for it all to arrive (more waiting  )

[rablack97]

You should of just PM'd OND, would of laid it all out for ya from the beginning....

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,88912.160.html

Scroll down and look at videos....

[griffindodd]

You should of just PM'd OND, would of laid it all out for ya from the beginning....

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,88912.160.html

Scroll down and look at videos....

There's some good info there, but my setup is very different and much less complicated, the lesson learned here is pick a final native output drive that is as close to your application needs as possible and then 'tweak' it gently with software, I was using the software to shoe horn a drive into a use that it was ill suited to, a great example of beginners mistakes.

His setup while very impressive cost nearly $500 and uses precision stepper motors. This one costs $87 with virtually no moving parts and relies on stop limit switches. While not as amazingly precise and robot-like as ONDs badass stepper based system, this does the job well and is far more accessible to the beginner (such as me lol)

[rablack97]

As your avatar slogan states......The BS is getting mighty thick....


Game on Griff Game on

[griffindodd]

As your avatar slogan states......The BS is getting mighty thick....
Game on Griff Game on

 

[TopJimmyCooks]

Gearing is your friend.  be it a helicopter main gear like Ond or a low tech friction wheel like others, you need low gearing to use a small motor.  To keep from going back to the drawing board, get some of those gilmer belts/timing belts and pullies and keep the motor you have, just move it off axis, put the big wheel on the monitor, small pully on the motor, keep your limit switches.  If you want to direct drive a big display at slow speeds with decent braking you're going to need quite a stout (large) motor.  Also get your power right, you can get a 6V tappable DC transformer from radio shack for $5. 

[griffindodd]

While all your points are valid and make total sense I'm just kinda stubborn and need to innovate rather than just follow. I dont bbelieve anyone has built a setup like this before so I am determined to make it work this way just for the challenge.  Its forcedme to learn a lot and I'm having great fun being a stubborn pita 

[rablack97]

As your avatar slogan states......The BS is getting mighty thick....

Thicker and Thicker by the minute......

[TopJimmyCooks]

Its not just good advice.  It's the

LAWS of PHYSICS



flaunt them at your own peril.

[Le Chuck]

Griff, you can do it.  If you would have taken everyone's advice all along the way you'd have a craptastic less cool build.  You've shown that you have the building chops already to put together something innovative, I say give it a shot.  The worst that happens is that it doesn't work and you have to do it their way anyway.  I'm all for a direct drive and think you're right on the money. 

TJC and Rablack are part of a secret cabal trying to keep you down anyway.  Don't drink their coolaid man! Don't do it!

[drventure]

Its not just good advice.  It's the

LAWS of PHYSICS

Laws are made to be broken, dammit! 

[griffindodd]

Lol I love you guys.

If it wasn't for law enforcement and physics I'd be unstoppable

[griffindodd]

just move it off axis, put the big wheel on the monitor, small pully on the motor, keep your limit switches.

Also I already did all that but didn't like the noise and the amount of moving parts that could get loose, stretch, fail, move etc etc

[mcseforsale]

What if you direct mount the motor to the monitor and just place the pulley stationary and have the entire thing rotate around the small pully?  That'll be different (bass-ackwards in fact) and would be kinda cool.

AJ

[griffindodd]

What if you direct mount the motor to the monitor and just place the pulley stationary and have the entire thing rotate around the small pully?  That'll be different (bass-ackwards in fact) and would be kinda cool.

AJ

You're a crazy person 

[TopJimmyCooks]

leave the monitor stationary and rotate the cab around it.  Leave the cab stationary and rotate the player around it. leave the player stationary and locate the cab at the north pole.

I couldn't remember who came up with those genius timing belts- it was you!  That was a great find/idea and as far as I know unique implementation - go with it!

[Le Chuck]

Get a custom cut LCD the size of the monitor+bezel.  Don't rotate anything.  Display as needed w/whatever custom bezel(s) you desire.