Author Topic: Build an OND designed cab 'Metropolis' (Read 583170 times)

Jimbo · « **Reply #600 on:** October 16, 2018, 02:38:53 pm »

Hey Ond

For your game, I read you're looking at Unity... have you heard of or tried Godot? I've used godot (have a game in progress) and it's great. I found it much easier and nicer than Unity, but it depends what you have planned for the game. Might be worth at least checking it out (better license than Unity for one thing).

Ond · « **Reply #601 on:** October 17, 2018, 08:04:02 am »

Quote from: Jimbo on October 16, 2018, 02:38:53 pm

Hey Ond

For your game, I read you're looking at Unity... have you heard of or tried Godot? I've used godot (have a game in progress) and it's great. I found it much easier and nicer than Unity, but it depends what you have planned for the game. Might be worth at least checking it out (better license than Unity for one thing).

Hey Jimbo, I've never heard of Godot, I checked out a few tutorials on it and I can see that it's got an intuitive node based approach to game design. I'll have to research it some more too see if I'd like to use it instead of Unity. Thanks for the that!

eds1275 · « **Reply #602 on:** October 21, 2018, 11:58:45 am »

Quote from: Jimbo on October 16, 2018, 02:38:53 pm

Hey Ond

For your game, I read you're looking at Unity... have you heard of or tried Godot? I've used godot (have a game in progress) and it's great. I found it much easier and nicer than Unity, but it depends what you have planned for the game. Might be worth at least checking it out (better license than Unity for one thing).

I've done a few games in Unity, unfortunately I lost one that was SOOOO CLOSE to completion which was an arcade basketball game you played with the trackball. I can probably be more help with music or sfx though. Fire an email if you want to chat about it!

ZTylerDurden717 · « **Reply #603 on:** November 05, 2018, 11:34:29 am »

Hi Ond!

With no wood cutting experience ever, I'm happy to say that I was able to customize the bezel on a 16:10 27" LCD by applying letterboxing covers on the width so that it fits a 480p 4:3 screen. It comes out to about a 24" 4:3 display! It looks great and I'll post pics once I have more of the wood material cut out.

Quick question. Since I'm really new to this, I don't have an eye for rounding the edges for the inside bezel area. You first mentioned to leave 3/4ths of an inch outside the edges with a jigsaw, then with the router leave 2 inches from either side the inner bezel area.

Any reason why you didn't instead give us a visual of a compass arc on these inside edges to cut around it instead of leaving estimated distances as per the metrics above? Is it because this is a judgement call in terms of how we perceive the arc should be angled? It's not a big deal but since I'm new I don't have the eye for what the compass arc should exactly look like.

edit: Attaching photo of the inner bezel arc I drew with a compass. Is that accurate? It looks like it would give me a round turn, but you'll notice the 2 inch spacing on each side. To me it's implying that my arc isn't as big as it should be, but if I were to make it rounder/larger, it'll deviate further from the original corner.

Thanks!

Ond · « **Reply #604 on:** November 05, 2018, 05:30:13 pm »

Quote from: eds1275 on October 21, 2018, 11:58:45 am

I've done a few games in Unity, unfortunately I lost one that was SOOOO CLOSE to completion which was an arcade basketball game you played with the trackball. I can probably be more help with music or sfx though. Fire an email if you want to chat about it!

Your help was awesome on other projects eds1275, I might still need some help when the time comes.

Quote from: ZTylerDurden717 on November 05, 2018, 11:34:29 am

Hi Ond!

With no wood cutting experience ever, I'm happy to say that I was able to customize the bezel on a 16:10 27" LCD by applying letterboxing covers on the width so that it fits a 480p 4:3 screen. It comes out to about a 24" 4:3 display! It looks great and I'll post pics once I have more of the wood material cut out.

Quick question. Since I'm really new to this, I don't have an eye for rounding the edges for the inside bezel area. You first mentioned to leave 3/4ths of an inch outside the edges with a jigsaw, then with the router leave 2 inches from either side the inner bezel area.

Any reason why you didn't instead give us a visual of a compass arc on these inside edges to cut around it instead of leaving estimated distances as per the metrics above? Is it because this is a judgement call in terms of how we perceive the arc should be angled? It's not a big deal but since I'm new I don't have the eye for what the compass arc should exactly look like.

edit: Attaching photo of the inner bezel arc I drew with a compass. Is that accurate? It looks like it would give me a round turn, but you'll notice the 2 inch spacing on each side. To me it's implying that my arc isn't as big as it should be, but if I were to make it rounder/larger, it'll deviate further from the original corner.

Thanks!

Yes, good point, drawing in your cutting line with a compass is the way to go. That arc looks ok; I'd probably go with a slightly bigger radius for a smoother curve though. If you're inexperienced with a router, free cutting any shapes by eye may be less than ideal. For a smooth clean curve using a template is always best. Flush trim cutting templates are quick to make in thin MDF. I use thin nails to attach them to the board. I've seen one guy on here who 3D prints cutting curves to use with a flush trim router bit - that's a great idea!

ZTylerDurden717 · « **Reply #605 on:** November 05, 2018, 06:03:10 pm »

Thanks so much for confirming! I'll make the radius slightly larger.

I'm definitely going to use a template for the CP. As for the corners for these side panels-- I can pull it off free hand. As long as I stay just outside the pencil line I feel confident doing it.

Also, I'm from Miami. I was instantly sold on your art deco design since that's our staple architecture style at the beach.

ZTylerDurden717 · « **Reply #606 on:** November 11, 2018, 08:43:58 pm »

hey vaderag,

Hope you're well!

How did you end up mounting the marquee art? If you're using purple t-molding on the marquee wood panels, where are the marquee retainers?

Would really like to know what you did there.

edit: I researched the forums and noticed you considered making small grooves but since the marquee panels aren't "flat" it wasn't possible. If you used tape/glue I'll definitely consider it too. If you could be detailed in terms of how you applied the tape/glue with the t-molding I'll give it a go. The t-molding color is a really nice touch and I wouldn't want to use a plain bracket.

Thanks!

vaderag · « **Reply #607 on:** November 14, 2018, 10:47:02 am »

Hi mate,

I tried a BUNCH of different methods - bending Aluminium, clips etc. In the end used Tape - 50mm Black Electrical Tape in fact.

The bottom of the marquee sits in a slot on the flat piece, it's a little close as there is a slot on the top and a slot for the t-mould on the front
Then the top of the marquee is taped to the top of the unit.

I then cut the back off some t-mould and glue gunned it straight as possible on top of the tape

Hope that helps!

ZTylerDurden717 · « **Reply #608 on:** November 14, 2018, 01:47:27 pm »

Thanks for coming back! I see where you're going but I don't understand how you have the marquee leaning forward if the groove on the bottom marquee panel would make it lean back since it's downward angled. Attached is a quick visual of what I mean. We're looking at the cabinet from the profile.

Is it that you have the marquee in the groove pivoted at a 45 degree leaning forward ie not fully in the slot (not seated at 90 degrees)?

Sorry for the additional questions, I just really want to get this right before assembly:

1) Is the groove cut inward a few mm from the edge (like the attached graphic) or is it cut right at the beginning where the t-molding would push on it? Based on your photos looks like it's a rebate right "behind" the edge
2) No grooves/rebates on the top panel, correct? Just t-molding.

Thanks again! I really appreciate it.

vaderag · « **Reply #609 on:** November 14, 2018, 05:14:43 pm »

Mine doesn't look like that - it has a flat bit at the bottom and it just rests against the top...

ZTylerDurden717 · « **Reply #610 on:** November 14, 2018, 06:15:03 pm »

I think I understand now. The reason I'm confused is because Ond's steps don't include a flat board and threw me off.

As you can see Ond has the "marquee bottom" in the attached graphic and reflects what I sent to you earlier. Are you saying you customized yours to add a flat piece above the marquee bottom to place the marquee as per the red rectangle in the attached?

vaderag · « **Reply #611 on:** November 15, 2018, 04:20:21 am »

Seems I did, but I don't now remember whether it was by accident or design!

The Marquee Top piece from the plans ended up being my marquee bottom, there is no piece pointing down at the top on mine, the angle of the other piece is slightly sharper which leads to being in the right place for leaning the marquee on...

ZTylerDurden717 · « **Reply #612 on:** November 15, 2018, 09:36:25 am »

This makes SO much sense now! It's really worth getting your input because the horizontal colorful t-molding looks fantastic.

vaderag · « **Reply #613 on:** November 15, 2018, 10:21:57 am »

Thanks, and happy to be of help - it was a bit of a trial by error process for me at many stages!

ZTylerDurden717 · « **Reply #614 on:** December 21, 2018, 11:45:08 am »

Hi Ond,

I hope you're well. The cab is standing up nicely with the rear door in place using piano hinges. I'll provide photos when I'm closer to the wood finish. Very exciting stuff!

I'm having a little bit of trouble wrapping my head around the order of operations to mount the CP because of artwork and wiring.

From tutorial videos I've watched, the CP artwork is applied and afterward the buttons/joysticks are screwed on. If the metro CP is screwed together underneath the artwork, how do I sort the wiring/screwing of peripherals afterward with the CP box closed? I considered leaving the CP Bottom unscrewed and last in order to do the wiring but looking at your Metropolis cab the artwork adhesive seems to be one flowing piece that wraps around the CP Top, Bottom, Front and possibly Back.

Would appreciate your advice.

insaneoctane · « **Reply #615 on:** December 22, 2018, 02:27:38 pm »

Been reading this thread over and over for weeks now. I'm closing in on building my OND-ish cabinet. I just pulled the trigger on a Dell IPS 32" 16:9 monitor and am wondering if it's going to be too big? Obviously OND's original plans were more for 23" to 24", but I wanted as much height as I could get. I was planning on modifying the width a bit to accommodate a 27" by increasing width by about 2", but I found the bright 32" Dell IPS for $129 and pulled the trigger. Now I'll have to go with about a 30" width....Any thoughts? Is 32" too big?

ZTylerDurden717 · « **Reply #616 on:** December 22, 2018, 09:21:20 pm »

Quote from: insaneoctane on December 22, 2018, 02:27:38 pm

Been reading this thread over and over for weeks now. I'm closing in on building my OND-ish cabinet. I just pulled the trigger on a Dell IPS 32" 16:9 monitor and am wondering if it's going to be too big? Obviously OND's original plans were more for 23" to 24", but I wanted as much height as I could get. I was planning on modifying the width a bit to accommodate a 27" by increasing width by about 2", but I found the bright 32" Dell IPS for $129 and pulled the trigger. Now I'll have to go with about a 30" width....Any thoughts? Is 32" too big?

I've seen some arcade builder companies have 32" as one of their options so you're not doing something unusual.
https://gameroomsolutions.com/shop/32-arcade-cabinet-kit/

On the other hand if you check this thread out:
https://www.reddit.com/r/cade/comments/9jo5pr/_/e6t2lt4/?context=1

He mentions "It’s a 32” monitor. Which I think might be a little too big for the distance. It’s ok for 4:3 games... but playing widescreen fighting games is a bit of a strain"

32" will yield about a 26" 4:3 equivalent size which is perfect since sega candy cabinets were in that ballpark. The issue is, you'll build something 32 inches wide to play a 26" retro game.

Ond · « **Reply #617 on:** December 31, 2018, 04:16:48 pm »

Sorry guys I'm far from home right now with very limited internet access, but hey I still can't stay away

. Just off the top of my head. The CP...... I always wanted a smooth wrap around vinyl finish. This presents some problems for access. The cutouts in the rear of the CP are for wiring access. Its not a particularly good design if you want to access the controls internally on a regular basis. That said you shouldn't really need to. The CP was always meant to bolt to the main body and be removable if need be. Modding this design for a larger/widesceen monitor is no problem but I wouldn't do it because the aesthetic wouldn't please me.

I have a new philosophy about havi g multiple projects on the go at once, I'm embracing it! I used to think get one done, then move on ro the next. My problem is I get bored with any one thing really easily. In 2019 I want to be busy with several things at once. I intend to build this cabinet as soon as I can. I'll stick to the simple joinery indicated in the plans and instructions.

I'll post my build progress here.

ZTylerDurden717 · « **Reply #618 on:** January 02, 2019, 01:24:04 pm »

Thanks Ond. I think I figured out what I can do. I can make an access hole in the CP bottom after it curves out then use thread screws with a thin piece of wood recessed to the CP bottom to seal it after wiring. I don't intend to constantly check/update the wiring so it should work. I agree that a smooth wrap around is an ideal look.

vaderag · « **Reply #619 on:** January 02, 2019, 02:08:21 pm »

Quote from: ZTylerDurden717 on January 02, 2019, 01:24:04 pm

Thanks Ond. I think I figured out what I can do. I can make an access hole in the CP bottom after it curves out then use thread screws with a thin piece of wood recessed to the CP bottom to seal it after wiring. I don't intend to constantly check/update the wiring so it should work. I agree that a smooth wrap around is an ideal look.

You don't need to seal it. It's inside the machine...
I haven't forgotten I owe you some pics, just been manic with the family!!

Sent from my Mi A1 using Tapatalk

vaderag · « **Reply #620 on:** January 02, 2019, 02:25:40 pm »

Found one on my phone

Holes on the bottom are the ones in the plan, holes on the 'top' are the bottom of the CP and are measured to sit inside the machine. I actually made them a little longer after this to work with a bit better...

Sent from my Mi A1 using Tapatalk

ZTylerDurden717 · « **Reply #621 on:** January 02, 2019, 11:21:24 pm »

Quote from: vaderag on January 02, 2019, 02:08:21 pm

Quote from: ZTylerDurden717 on January 02, 2019, 01:24:04 pm
Thanks Ond. I think I figured out what I can do. I can make an access hole in the CP bottom after it curves out then use thread screws with a thin piece of wood recessed to the CP bottom to seal it after wiring. I don't intend to constantly check/update the wiring so it should work. I agree that a smooth wrap around is an ideal look.
You don't need to seal it. It's inside the machine...
I haven't forgotten I owe you some pics, just been manic with the family!!

Sent from my Mi A1 using Tapatalk

I read "it's inside the machine" like 3 times over each time more slowly. Then I was like "oh." "OHHHH." The whole time I created this notion that a bottom hole would be exposed to the player and could reach into the wiring. Obviously they can't if the hole is covered by the main cab when bolted down.

What a relief. Once again giving me peace of mind vaderag, thank you.

vaderag · « **Reply #622 on:** January 03, 2019, 02:39:59 am »

Not a problem, good luck!

ZTylerDurden717 · « **Reply #623 on:** February 01, 2019, 04:00:11 pm »

Ok guys,

I know this took forever but the woodwork is basically complete! Big thanks to Ond and vaderag for always checking up on me along the way.

Ond I gotta say there's certain details to this build where I realized you were being very precise for a reason. When the top CP board was aligned slightly above the CP backing to hold the marquee glass in place, I felt the magic happening on its own. Superb attention to detail.

vaderag,

I've finally reached the part where I'm going to try out your "bottom" marquee t-molding cut and placement. In the two photos, I wanted you to confirm the following if/when you get a chance:

Is your speaker wood panel and bottom marquee aligned like this? From your photos the black paint does a good job camouflaging the angles joining.

Lastly regarding the plexiglass groove. Is the groove you cut like option #1 or option #2 in the link below? In other words, is the groove starting at the edge or not? For demonstration purposes assume option #2 is on the same side as the t-molding cut in the middle.

vaderag · « **Reply #624 on:** February 01, 2019, 04:47:21 pm »

Looking great Tyler!

Mine is quite different... The flat panel o take the marqee you have laying on top actually is an extension of the speaker panel (tried to take a pic to show what I mean) so I have a slot along the side and then a slot on the top

I'm not quite sure I understand your second pic

Sent from my Mi A1 using Tapatalk

ZTylerDurden717 · « **Reply #625 on:** February 01, 2019, 07:17:16 pm »

Excellent, thank you! Don't mind my second question--you were able to answer it with the graphic.

What's funny is that your past "conundrum" with the bezel leaning further back relative to the intended spec gave you the ability to do this cool little mod. I gotta figure out my own mod since I've got a different angle to work with.

vaderag · « **Reply #626 on:** February 02, 2019, 02:24:20 am »

Quote from: ZTylerDurden717 on February 01, 2019, 07:17:16 pm

Excellent, thank you! Don't mind my second question--you were able to answer it with the graphic.

What's funny is that your past "conundrum" with the bezel leaning further back relative to the intended spec gave you the ability to do this cool little mod. I gotta figure out my own mod since I've got a different angle to work with.

Yeah, one of the things I loved about this project was figuring out some of these things as I went along!
Makes it unique

Sent from my Mi A1 using Tapatalk

Ond · « **Reply #627 on:** February 03, 2019, 01:33:16 am »

Great work Tyler! Your build is well on the way. Good to see you helping him out vaderag with the learnings from your own (very nice) build.

So, ZTylerDurden717, what are you thinking of doing for your artwork? Are you doing your own or getting someone to help you? There are some very skilled artists on the forum who may be willing to help out if you want to go in that direction.

ZTylerDurden717 · « **Reply #628 on:** February 04, 2019, 05:30:06 pm »

Quote from: Ond on February 03, 2019, 01:33:16 am

Great work Tyler! Your build is well on the way. Good to see you helping him out vaderag with the learnings from your own (very nice) build.

So, ZTylerDurden717, what are you thinking of doing for your artwork? Are you doing your own or getting someone to help you? There are some very skilled artists on the forum who may be willing to help out if you want to go in that direction.

Thank you!

Well I'm thinking since this is art deco style and I'm from Miami where that architecture is timeless, I want to continue with Miami themes. The Miami Heat have a popular "Vice" theme with black, sky blue and magenta. I'd like to use those colors and have something like stripe-arrows flowing on the sides and CP.

My best friend is a graphic designer but I first need to transfer the dimensions to photoshop which I need to research how to do. If I can't figure out how to do that I'll gladly connect with some of the talented folks here.

ZTylerDurden717 · « **Reply #629 on:** February 20, 2019, 01:13:01 pm »

Hi Ond!

Hope you're well.

I have a photo that shows what's going with my CP which isn't a big deal by any means but wanted your thoughts.

Basically, if the bracing timber is the same height as the CP Front and CP Back, this will happen:

There's slight suspension caused by the bracing timber in the front. You mention in your notes to sand down the CP MDF AND bracing timber at a 5 degree tilt to sit flush but that would require sanding/rasping ALL of the CP Front/Back lining which you weren't expecting folks to do since you specified "edges" only. In other words, if I begin to go at the CP MDF edges I would have to sand down evenly across the width of the panels.

Anyway, the question is:

Should I just leave it like that or should I at least sand down the bracing timber on the CP Back so it sits flush from the back? It looks OK as is to be honest and seats itself fine on the cab.

Thanks!! Let me know if I don't make sense and I'll make it clearer.

Gilrock · « **Reply #630 on:** February 20, 2019, 01:46:13 pm »

I'll toss in my opinion. I would put the angle on the vertical front and and rear MDF boards which would allow the CP top board to sit flush but if you wanted that front height to be exactly where you have it you would have needed to add a tiny bit more length to account for the angle you need to cut or sand. You should also be able to cut those side braces so they fit the angle.

ZTylerDurden717 · « **Reply #631 on:** February 20, 2019, 02:46:25 pm »

Thanks Gilrock!

I'm going with your suggestion to shave off (it's already PVA-glued so I'm going against ungluing to cut) the bracing timber to fit the angle.

Putting the angle on the MDF boards will obviously give it the most flush result but I don't see this represented in Ond's visual guide and the thought of making a precise angle cut across both MDF boards with my limited tools would be overkill.

Thanks again for the help!

Ond · « **Reply #632 on:** February 20, 2019, 02:57:19 pm »

Hey Tyler, the original intent was for all joining surfaces to be angled for the 5 degree tilt using whatever tools you had. Cutting the bracing timber to meet the angle should be fine if the front of the CP sits flush. Sorry I was a bit late with my answer...just woke up ackk.

ZTylerDurden717 · « **Reply #633 on:** February 20, 2019, 03:11:46 pm »

Quote from: Ond on February 20, 2019, 02:57:19 pm

Hey Tyler, the original intent was for all joining surfaces to be angled for the 5 degree tilt using whatever tools you had. Cutting the bracing timber to meet the angle should be fine if the front of the CP sits flush. Sorry I was a bit late with my answer...just woke up ackk.

LOL you're fine. You may have just woke up but you've already helped out someone in need. Give yourself a pat on the back.

Gilrock · « **Reply #634 on:** February 20, 2019, 04:33:50 pm »

Yeah for my last control panel I cheated. I tried to cut all the angles I needed at first but I had a house shaped box so the angle pieces up front needed a compound angle cut. So I got the bright idea to position my control panel base on my CNC at the angle I needed to make the surface I wanted to be flat parallel with the CNC table. Then I started up the router and used manual jogging to shave off a few mm of wood to make a nice flat plane that would be at the correct angle.

ZTylerDurden717 · « **Reply #635 on:** February 20, 2019, 05:26:45 pm »

Quote from: Gilrock on February 20, 2019, 04:33:50 pm

Yeah for my last control panel I cheated. I tried to cut all the angles I needed at first but I had a house shaped box so the angle pieces up front needed a compound angle cut. So I got the bright idea to position my control panel base on my CNC at the angle I needed to make the surface I wanted to be flat parallel with the CNC table. Then I started up the router and used manual jogging to shave off a few mm of wood to make a nice flat plane that would be at the correct angle.

Wow, impressive. At least I'm not using a chisel.

Gilrock · « **Reply #636 on:** February 21, 2019, 09:52:42 am »

Nothing wrong with a chisel. I had one in my hand yesterday...lol.

fastbeagle · « **Reply #637 on:** February 23, 2019, 01:56:08 am »

What I like about this build is that it has a rectangle control panel, that looks like it could double as a pinsim controller that could play VR pinball( https://www.tested.com/tech/gaming/569647-how-build-pinsim-virtual-reality-pinball-machine/). Has anyone made one of these OND cabinets ,with solenoids and plunger for VR pinball?

ZTylerDurden717 · « **Reply #638 on:** February 24, 2019, 09:59:33 am »

Quote from: fastbeagle on February 23, 2019, 01:56:08 am

What I like about this build is that it has a rectangle control panel, that looks like it could double as a pinsim controller that could play VR pinball( https://www.tested.com/tech/gaming/569647-how-build-pinsim-virtual-reality-pinball-machine/). Has anyone made one of these OND cabinets ,with solenoids and plunger for VR pinball?

What an awesome concept.

fastbeagle · « **Reply #639 on:** February 27, 2019, 04:20:33 am »

I think the illusion looks pretty good. i haven't seen any builds combining VR pinball with an arcade cabinet though.....maybe because a computer that can handle VR is probably going to be your main personal computer

. I can only imagine what will be available within 10 years. Maybe a raspberry pi that can handle 4k VR pinball? LOL


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