Author Topic: My new toy :-) with problems :-( (Xybots) (Read 10394 times)

MLew · « **on:** October 11, 2011, 09:10:33 am »

So I picked up this Xybots from CL for only $40. Cosmetically, it's in great shape. The left joystick has fallen into the cab, but all components are still there. Getting these horizontal, angled lines on monitor; thinkin a cap kit may solve that.

Now my main problem, when I plug it in, the monitor comes on..and nothing else. No lights, no boards. Any idea what I'm looking at here? I'm thinking powersupply, but I'm novice at best with these things.

Sorry for the crappy cellphone pic :-/

leapinlew · « **Reply #1 on:** October 11, 2011, 09:14:57 am »

Quote from: Gogan on October 11, 2011, 09:10:33 am

So I picked up this Xybots from CL for only $40. Cosmetically, it's in great shape. The left joystick has fallen into the cab, but all components are still there. Getting these horizontal, angled lines on monitor; thinkin a cap kit may solve that.

Now my main problem, when I plug it in, the monitor comes on..and nothing else. No lights, no boards. Any idea what I'm looking at here? I'm thinking powersupply, but I'm novice at best with these things.

Sorry for the crappy cellphone pic :-/

Ahh, so you're from the St. Louis area? At least, thats where I saw that cabinet. I had considered picking it up, but it's 1.5 hours away and I really didn't know what I wanted to do with it. Good luck - it's a unique cabinet and looks to be in good shape. You didn't get the other cab?

MLew · « **Reply #2 on:** October 11, 2011, 09:17:20 am »

Actually, I'm in Michigan, metro Detroit area

drventure · « **Reply #3 on:** October 11, 2011, 09:18:50 am »

Great score. 40$? Really great score!

I love the shape, it's not your standard refrigerator box.

MLew · « **Reply #4 on:** October 11, 2011, 09:32:45 am »

Yea, I couldn't pass it up! The side art is a bit damaged on the corners, and a few scuffs here n there. Ya, I'll take it!

BobA · « **Reply #5 on:** October 11, 2011, 09:48:20 am »

You are getting AC to the monitor so fuses and power supply sound like a good place to start.

MLew · « **Reply #6 on:** October 11, 2011, 09:53:17 am »

Thanks. I will check that out this weekend. (it's at my place up north, so I can only work on it on weekends)

MLew · « **Reply #7 on:** October 26, 2011, 11:40:07 am »

Ok, so I was up north and had a chance to work on it a bit

I got the 1P controller back up in place, jus need to connect a few loose wires from when it fell into the machine.

I fired it up to check everything out, the monitor seems fine, getting power/rgb values seem good. The audio pcb that sits under the CP has a red light that lights up as well.

The coin mech lights don't light up, as well as the marquee. And on the main pcb, it has a red light (jus like the audio pcb) that does NOT light up. Again, I'm thinking a power supply issue

Now, while I'm somewhat new to repairing, I'm confident I'm not an idiot and wouldn't do anything I'm not comfortable with. That being said, how do I check to see if the power supply is bad? I've purchased a multimeter, but I'm nOt sure "where" or "how" to check it. Or if it needs to be turned on or off when checking.

I'm learning something new everytime I tinker with it, so any help with this would help an eager learner

lilshawn · « **Reply #8 on:** October 26, 2011, 03:30:47 pm »

Quote from: Gogan on October 26, 2011, 11:40:07 am

I've purchased a multimeter, but I'm nOt sure "where" or "how" to check it. Or if it needs to be turned on or off when checking.

you'd better hold it right there. don't move a muscle. what you are going to want to do first is do some reading. we don't want you poking into things and ending up in a hospital.

if you aren't the reading type, better google up some youtube videos at the least.

EDIT to add:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=68787.0 please read this first.

Turnarcades · « **Reply #9 on:** October 26, 2011, 07:00:40 pm »

I'd never attempt a genuine cabinet repair unless I was an electronics wiz, as with so many original brands of machine, modifications to the JAMMA standard and arcade owner hacks/botch jobs over the years, there's an infinite number of things that could be wrong. I view all of these types of machine as a 'swap it out or forget it' kind of affair as you could end up damaging more stuff, spending loads of money troubleshooting, and too much time researching, before you even identify the problem, only to discover more problems arise once you do. I think that unless you're a dedicated electronics hobbyist, it makes much more sense to replace key components if they're not working and just mess with the simple things like the controls and cosmetics.

MLew · « **Reply #10 on:** October 27, 2011, 10:19:58 pm »

Thanks for the infos guys! I'm kinda OCD with my research, which is a good thing! Reading, vids, im fine with all of it. But, I do appreciate the direct feedback from you guys. I'll keep ya posted on what I find (or don't find!)

Savannan · « **Reply #11 on:** October 28, 2011, 12:39:17 pm »

when you say up north...northern michigan?

lilshawn · « **Reply #12 on:** October 28, 2011, 02:38:07 pm »

Quote from: Savannan on October 28, 2011, 12:39:17 pm

when you say up north...northern michigan?

north pole.

it's a ---smurfette--- to dogsled a cab.

MLew · « **Reply #13 on:** October 28, 2011, 04:33:14 pm »

Yes, that'd be Michigan. Actually, more central Mich, Hemlock to be exact, bout 15 miles outside saginaw, basically farm country. But I'm live in Detroit metro area, so it's north enough for me.

MLew · « **Reply #14 on:** November 14, 2011, 12:20:26 am »

Well, I tested the power supply, the AC was checking 120v. Sounds normal, then I checked the +5 +12 DC and got some big fat zeros. From what I gather, that's the (or part of) the problem.

corycet · « **Reply #15 on:** November 14, 2011, 01:03:19 am »

Most likely the 5 volt and 12 volts that are missing, is not part of your problem, but all of your problem. Not sure if that game uses a standard SMPS, but if it does you can simply buy a new one for 20 bucks and have a fully working game.

mgb · « **Reply #16 on:** November 14, 2011, 10:05:53 am »

That's a great game, I used to play it all the time when I was in high school. I would think that game has a switching power supply so like corycet said, swap it out. The weird thing is, why does the audio board appear to be powering up if your getting no 12 volts? Also just to be sure that the board isn't dragging down the power supply, maybe you should disconnect the power from the board and quickly meter for 5v again right at the power supply. Just don't let the power supply run long with no load.

MLew · « **Reply #17 on:** November 14, 2011, 12:50:51 pm »

I thought that kinda weird myself. I don't get any sound at all, jus the LEDs. We'll see. I already pulled out the ps (switching). So I'll jus replace it and go from there. It's cheap enough.

MLew · « **Reply #18 on:** November 15, 2011, 08:51:55 am »

Anyone know where I can score a good deal on a switching power supply for an atari game?

mgb · « **Reply #19 on:** November 15, 2011, 11:11:28 am »

Its been a little bit since I last bought one but if I remember correctly, the best prices I found last time were from Jammaboards.com and twisted quarter. You may also wanna look at Lizardlick and Dive masters site.

MLew · « **Reply #20 on:** November 17, 2011, 09:25:06 am »

I think the joysticks may need some work. I haven't taken them apart yet but I've read that some plastic/rubber piece inside can become really gummy n melt down. I think this may be my case People say they've replaced them with pinball rubbers? Anybody have a link to what these are/where to buy? I'm no pinball wizard

mgb · « **Reply #21 on:** November 17, 2011, 05:14:11 pm »

I'm not positive but I think those sticks are bassically Atari Logo Sticks but with the two extra switches underneath for rotate.
Heres a link to Videogameparts.coms parts for atari logo sticks http://www.videogameparts.com/category.sc?categoryId=147

Here is someone elses xybots restoration here on the forums
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=110819.0

Here is a pinball parts site that I have gotten some other atari bushings from before http://bayareaamusements.com/

MLew · « **Reply #22 on:** November 18, 2011, 07:39:02 am »

Thx for the links. I've read through that restore thread already, good info there.

I checked out that pin site, but couldnt find that rubber piece ppl hav used for the joysticks. (there's a lot "goin on" on that site lol.

Plus I'm not really sure exactly what I'm lookin for...anybody Xybots enthusiasts kno wtf I'm talkin bout?

RayB · « **Reply #23 on:** November 20, 2011, 03:39:06 pm »

Check the Restoration thread. Someone did a Xybots recently.

Also, this thread should probabkly be moved to Misc Arcade where it won't get lost among a bunch of MAME topics.

MLew · « **Reply #24 on:** November 21, 2011, 01:45:44 pm »

If mods wanna move it, feel free. Misc arcade seems to be where it best fits as its not much a restoration ( its in killer shape!) and ur right, don't wanna get lost in the mameness.

I'll be updating it as I work out all the kinks.

MLew · « **Reply #25 on:** November 28, 2011, 12:16:52 pm »

I pulled the power supply, and the manual says it's a 5v 10amp PS. This is what's on it:

- DC Com
- DC Com
- +5
- +5
- GND
- AC
- AC
- NA

Its a Hitron PS, Model # HSA-122B, 10A.

Everywhere I look I see 15amp power supplies. The 10amp ones I find only have 5 connection points. I know the machine has at least 6 wires that connect. Is there any of these (or like it) available that will work?

knohbody · « **Reply #26 on:** November 28, 2011, 12:40:22 pm »

The amp rating on the PS is how many amps can be drawn. Getting a PS over 10 amps is fine, so long as the voltages match. A PS under 10 amps would likely not work, or work sporadically.
You have two +5 lines. Is that right, or is one of them a -5?
Something like this should work, though I wouldn't order from happ unless you have a large order. they tend to stiff you with the shipping.

mgb · « **Reply #27 on:** November 28, 2011, 01:47:50 pm »

I have bought this one in the past. $21 is a pretty good price.
http://www.twistedquarter.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=4&zenid=p4qu24ruj46g4ps0qeuih8g712

... or this one from Paradise Arcades for the same price
http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/en/electrical/4-arcade-switching-power-supply.html

MLew · « **Reply #28 on:** November 28, 2011, 02:11:16 pm »

I double-checked, and yes there is 2 +5s. I have wires connected to these terminals:

-DC com
-DC com
- +5
- +5
- AC
- AC

Thanks for suggestions, but some of those units have different markings than mine. I know the 15a ones will, but I didn't see any dc com. Are both of these just ground? Do they both need to be hooked up on separate terminals? Again thanks for helping an electronics novice. :-)

knohbody · « **Reply #29 on:** November 28, 2011, 03:51:10 pm »

In DC, ground is ground. You don't want to mix em between powersupplies, but you should be ok hooking the DC ground to either one of those. Do NOTmix AC ground and DC ground though. AC ground is usually separated visually and grouped together with the AC neutral and hot. From your description, the connection labeled GND is AC ground.

Hooking up the new power supply shouldn't be too hard. Any connections going to +5v DC will go to that terminal, you can stack wires on top, or splice them together. Your DC ground wires will go to the DC ground connection. on the A/C side, you'll have a white wire which will go to one of the connections labeled AC, a black wire, which will go to the other AC connection, then a field ground, generally green, maybe green and yellow, going to the connection labeled GND.
At that point, make sure everything is correct, then power it up and hope nothing smokes.

Something to check before you order a new power supply though: trace the ac lines that went to this power supply back to the AC in of the machine (with the power off) and see if there's a secondary inline fuse that blew. If so, replace the fuse with the exact type that was in there (or whatever the specs in the manual tell you) and rewire your original to see if it works.

MLew · « **Reply #30 on:** November 28, 2011, 04:17:49 pm »

Thx. There is no wire connected to terminal GND. But the AC lines hv a black/white wire, so I'm assuming white is my ground.

I'll get some pix up when I'm home later.

MLew · « **Reply #31 on:** November 28, 2011, 06:57:32 pm »

Ok, here is the PS Im looking at, and here is how I think it should be wired up. Tell me if I'm right on my choice.

(the old one is on the left, new one on right)

mgb · « **Reply #32 on:** November 28, 2011, 08:33:30 pm »

Yup your cross connect will work.

MLew · « **Reply #33 on:** November 28, 2011, 10:31:20 pm »

cool, got it ordered. Hopefully this will bring some life to this machine!!

mgb · « **Reply #34 on:** November 28, 2011, 11:37:41 pm »

Did you actually order from Happs?

MLew · « **Reply #35 on:** November 29, 2011, 07:12:14 am »

Nah, I went to Bob Roberts.

mgb · « **Reply #36 on:** November 29, 2011, 08:36:51 pm »

Great choice

MLew · « **Reply #37 on:** November 30, 2011, 12:25:47 pm »

Yea he's providing a great service, and I'll always go to him before any of the bigger companies.

MLew · « **Reply #38 on:** December 26, 2011, 11:21:11 pm »

Well, got the new power supply hooked up, and BAM! fired right up!

The monitor looks great, after adjusting a bit, the sound is loud n thick! The controls work, but it's a bit wonky, think the pivot ball is toasty. But, other than that, this beast is workin great!

Le Chuck · « **Reply #39 on:** December 26, 2011, 11:30:33 pm »

Polish'er up and let's see some pics! That machine occupied prime realestate in my favorite burger joint for years, great cab!


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