Author Topic: Battletoads - It's back together again. This time with artwork! (Read 58350 times)

AlienInferno · « **on:** June 19, 2011, 11:34:40 pm »

Ok. Well here I go again posting a project announcement thread. This time it will actually go somewhere. (I made this one basically because I went in a completly different direction. Hope that's OK. Please delete the other if you want).

But after many, many months of thinking about I am finally about to get off the ground with my cab. I have 4 days off this week (mon-thur) so I plan on spending as much time as I can on it. Tommorrow my plans are to go to Lowes (cheaper then the Home Depot by me) and get a router, 3 sheets of 3/4" MDF, and some 2x2 for framing. As well as stock up on some things I'm low on like wood screws and blades for the circular and jig saw. Then come home set everything up and get the sides cut out at a minimum. Basically I'm wanting to possibly get a cab that can stand on it's own at least in the next four days. We shall see as I don't want to rush things.

And as far as the name, Fun Evil Jester. That's an anagram of my first and last name. Thought it would be kinda cool for an arcade name. I was thinking Fun Arcade could be kinda like the brand name and Evil Jester could be kinda like the model. Does that make sense. Either way when it comes that time I'm going to have to enlist someone's help on here for the graphics design.

Here's a sketchup model of the cab. It's designed after the Konami TMNT, Simpsons, Bucky O'Hare cabs. The marquee in this model is just an idea for now and the side art is almost what I want but just needs moved around some. Planning on 2 switchable 8 way joysticks, 7 buttons per player. The basic 6 layout with a 7th button for the occasional 4 button game. A trackball and possibly a spinner. Will post more tommorrow with my progress.

AlienInferno · « **Reply #1 on:** June 19, 2011, 11:39:32 pm »

Also does anyone have a good suggestion for an 8 way switchable (preferably from the top) joystick that has or can be fitted with the option to be lit with an RGB balltop. I've sent RandyT a PM asking for suggestions as most of my controls will come from GGG but haven't heard back yet.

Hewskie · « **Reply #2 on:** June 20, 2011, 01:56:06 am »

I hate Shaco! That clown jumps outta the bushes, scares me to the point of running around in circles with just a jack in the box, then proceeds to kill me and dance on my corpse before i can even flash away! (exaggeration, but i sill hate him).

Good luck with your build!

mgb · « **Reply #3 on:** June 20, 2011, 09:36:13 pm »

For 4-way 8-way switching from the top, you'd either have to go with the Magstick Plus from Ultimarc
http://www.ultimarc.com/controls.html

or the Omni-Stik from Groovy Game gear
http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=195

Or if you don't mind opening the control panel for switching, you can go with Sanwa JLWs (great sticks)
http://www.lizardlick.com/Sanwa-JLW-TM-8-Joystick_p_271.html

Or you can go with the Ultrastik 360 and have the best of both worlds and use mapping to achieve 4 or 8 way (and maybe an octagon restrictor, for feel)
http://www.ultimarc.com/ultrastik_info.html

Good luck with your build.

AlienInferno · « **Reply #4 on:** June 21, 2011, 11:41:03 pm »

My pictures were too large so I get to type this again.

O-well.

Since I don't feel like typing everything again. I took the wife to Lowes around 2PM. Picked up a bunch of stuff. (Wood, tools,etc). Started work on the cab about 4PM. Took me until 5:30PM to finish drawing out the 1st side. Cut it out. Sanded the edges straight, etc. Used it as a pattern for the second side. Made a small error in the top of the second side. Not sure how but I put a small "dent" in it with the router. I also made a quick and dirty mockup control panel box out of some left over 3/4" ply I had in the garage to use as a mockup for my controls and I can possibly use the top as a pattern.

On to the pics.

1st is the 1st side.
2nd is both sides together.
3rd is the "dent"
4th and 5th are the quick and dirty control panel.

emb · « **Reply #5 on:** June 22, 2011, 08:21:30 am »

I like how you put the notch into the side panels to rest the top of your control panel on. Kind of makes me wish I did that with my cab.

AlienInferno · « **Reply #6 on:** June 22, 2011, 12:07:33 pm »

I can't really take credit for the notches to rest my control panel on. I got my plans from http://www.jakobud.com. All the Konami cabs he has plans for look like this with the exceptions being the 6 player X-men and the Track & Field cocktail.

The thing I like about it though is that I should be able to put my admin. buttons on the top of my control panel and not worry about them interfering with the controls.

AlienInferno · « **Reply #7 on:** June 23, 2011, 01:10:09 am »

Got some more work done today. I fixed my small mistake on the one side with a little bondo and sanding. Fixed it right up. Got a base built. Got the panel for the coon door area and top cut out. Then drilled and countersunk the sides so I could install them on the base as well as install the coin door panel and top. The top is just held on with a couple screws as I still need to do some sanding on it. Pretty much all that's left looks wise (sans control panel of course) is the speaker panel and the door(s) for the rear. Then it's all inside stuff. Thinking about decasing my tv because of the angle it will have to sit at. Really don't want to but can't figure out how to safely secure the tv inside the cab because of it. Tommorrow will cut out the speaker panel and build a good control panel for it. Then work on the tv issue. Need to add a little bit of bracing inside but it's suprisingly sturdy at the moment. Won't get much done after that until I can get a slot cutter.

Pics.

1 - how she looked before I got the top put on.
2 - The inside. Bare but roomy.
3 - A small miscalculation when I made my base. Gonna use some wood filler to fix the small gap.
4 - The quarter image my wife drew on the coin door panel for laughs.

AlienInferno · « **Reply #8 on:** June 23, 2011, 01:13:32 am »

As I haven't worked with MDF before this project. My top piece got a small split in an edge when I screwed it into place. Will this become a problem later on? Should I replace the whole piece? Or will it be OK. It will be covered by the marquee retainer when completed.

mgb · « **Reply #9 on:** June 23, 2011, 08:06:50 am »

a picture would help, but otherwise I'd say just sand and bodo it for a fix.

Woodshop Flunky · « **Reply #10 on:** June 23, 2011, 09:07:08 am »

Like mgb said, hard to say without seeing the split.

However, moving forward, if you are screwing into the edge of MDF, pre-drill the holes if you can. MDF doesn't behave like wood, and will split easily when screwing into edges.

AlienInferno · « **Reply #11 on:** June 23, 2011, 01:15:16 pm »

It's basically a small hair line split. About an inch and a quarter long. I am predrilling my holes. I think when I screwed it together the screw went in a little crooked. That or I need to go up to the next size drill bit. It's the only piece that's split on me so far though.

Will have a picture of the split up in a few hours when I get access to my other computer with the SD card reader on it.

AlienInferno · « **Reply #12 on:** June 23, 2011, 03:27:30 pm »

Here's a picture of the split.

Woodshop Flunky · « **Reply #13 on:** June 23, 2011, 04:25:12 pm »

If you glued that joint... then it should be fine. If you didn't glue it... then it should probably still be fine once the rest of the cab is put together. If you get a split every time you put a screw in, then that would be different.

AlienInferno · « **Reply #14 on:** June 23, 2011, 05:05:22 pm »

It's only held on with 4 screws so far. 2 each side. I needed to see how my measurements lined up and clamps didn't want to hold it. I'll keep an eye on it though. If it splits anymore I'll just replace it and use this cut for something else.

I also found out yesterday that I won a Coin Controls over/under coin door on Ebay. Seller stated it came with the coin mechs and was in good condition. If the pictures were of the same door all it looked like it needed was some work with a wire wheel, repaint, and locks. I'll see when it gets here.

Also ended up getting a Mars GL5-R1 bill acceptor from the same seller. Also supposedly works. This was more of a "I want one to play with" buy as it's not going on my cab.

Woodshop Flunky · « **Reply #15 on:** June 23, 2011, 05:34:13 pm »

It's easy to make mistakes joining MDF to MDF like this. Have you considered using actual wood battens to give your screws more bite?

AlienInferno · « **Reply #16 on:** June 23, 2011, 06:39:51 pm »

If you're talking about adding blocks to the inside corners then yes I've thought about it. If not then I have no clue what a wood batten is.

Jigenjuke · « **Reply #17 on:** June 23, 2011, 07:02:43 pm »

Quote from: AlienInferno on June 23, 2011, 01:15:16 pm

It's basically a small hair line split. About an inch and a quarter long. I am predrilling my holes. I think when I screwed it together the screw went in a little crooked. That or I need to go up to the next size drill bit. It's the only piece that's split on me so far though.

Will have a picture of the split up in a few hours when I get access to my other computer with the SD card reader on it.

Hey there AlienInferno, this use to happen to me quite a bit. I have since started to predrill holes a little smaller than the screws I am using and then use a counter sink bit before I finish screwing them in.

Hope this helps.

Jigenjuke

mgb · « **Reply #18 on:** June 23, 2011, 07:42:51 pm »

If thats the only crack, you're probably fine. but like Woodshopflunky said, it is best to use hardwood strips inside (Like how factory arcade machines are made).
you can put alittle wood glue in the crack to step it from spreading.

otherwise your marquee retainer will hide the crack

AlienInferno · « **Reply #19 on:** June 23, 2011, 09:05:40 pm »

Can someone clarify this hardwood strips thing? I've only seen the inside of an arcade machine once or twice and at that time I was more interested in playing the games.

Lengthy explanations, pictures. I'm better with pictures. Isn't everybody?

wol-nz · « **Reply #20 on:** June 23, 2011, 09:11:08 pm »

Yiup! I agree with what has been said already.
If that's the only crack then move on (no fix needed) MDF is so fibrous it will hold like that for yonks (the only reason it won't is if you put pressure on that join or you live in a humid place - moisture will expand that join if you don't seal it with paint)

You should always stay about 50mm away from an edge that way you don't compromise the soft center of the MDF board.
Anyway great work

wol-nz · « **Reply #21 on:** June 23, 2011, 09:12:53 pm »

Quote from: AlienInferno on June 23, 2011, 09:05:40 pm

Can someone clarify this hardwood strips thing? I've only seen the inside of an arcade machine once or twice and at that time I was more interested in playing the games.

Lengthy explanations, pictures. I'm better with pictures. Isn't everybody?

Take a look at my project - I use MDF strips to screw into
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=112442.0
The best photo is the back view once together, see how i used 100mm pieces of off cuts to screw the center pieces into. Makes the join 10 times stronger. (most people use a thin pine piece of wood. But i had plenty of MDF so used that

mgb · « **Reply #22 on:** June 23, 2011, 10:50:38 pm »

Heres another example of the wood strips used to hold cross panels.
Its not mine btw. just a pic I found online.

AlienInferno · « **Reply #23 on:** June 23, 2011, 11:49:56 pm »

Hey WoLLiEnZ,
Thanks for the link. Nice cab by the way.

Thanks mgb for the pic.

I have some 2x2 laying around. Maybe a little overkill in spots but it wouldn't hurt anything to go ahead and glue and screw them into the existing corners would it? Figure it will give strength and all I'll have to do is fill in some extra screw holes.

AlienInferno · « **Reply #24 on:** June 28, 2011, 04:28:17 pm »

Quick update

Coin door arrived today while adding some reinforcement pieces to the inside of my cab. It's in really good shape. The polished metal pieces on the door (around the rejects and coin return) are in great shape. A small scratch in between the two rejects but it's not really noticable so not going to mess with that. The only real work I'm going to have to do on this door is repaint it to black and add locks.

Not bad for $9.95. S&H cost more then the coin door.

Also pictures is the bill acceptor which will not be going on the cab.

Now back to work.

DaveMMR · « **Reply #25 on:** June 28, 2011, 04:45:17 pm »

I've been thinking about doing a new cab in the same style you're doing yours (Konami 4-Player cabs). I like the way it's looking - I'll be keeping an eye on this one.

How wide did you make the cab, BTW? What size/type of display are you using?

AlienInferno · « **Reply #26 on:** June 28, 2011, 09:05:17 pm »

The cab itself is 28.5 inches. Control panel lid is the widest point at 36.875 inches. The display is going to be a 27 inch Sony CRT TV. Should fit depth-wise I hope. It will be a two player cab for spacing reasons but if I ever build another cab this one will become the dedicated 4 player Konami cab.

AlienInferno · « **Reply #27 on:** June 29, 2011, 05:42:31 pm »

What would be the easiest way to get the original white coating off the coin door and down to bare metal? If I remember right, from my various readings of the forum, just a drill with a wire wheel. Correct?

Nevermind. After weeding threw 8 million threads again I found my answer. I was right.

AlienInferno · « **Reply #28 on:** June 30, 2011, 04:14:43 am »

Got the coin door stripped earlier today. Stayed up late priming it because I was having fun. Need to get some sleep now but here is some pics of the stripped door. Also got the hole cut for it and new locks. Will paint it tommorrow and maybe get it put back together.

yotsuya · « **Reply #29 on:** June 30, 2011, 10:44:26 am »

Quote from: AlienInferno on June 30, 2011, 04:14:43 am

Got the coin door stripped earlier today. Stayed up late priming it because I was having fun. Need to get some sleep now but here is some pics of the stripped door. Also got the hole cut for it and new locks. Will paint it tommorrow and maybe get it put back together.

Looks good. Did you put anything on the door (paint stripper) before you used the wheel? I have a door I want to strip and was going to go the wire wheel route as well.

AlienInferno · « **Reply #30 on:** June 30, 2011, 12:16:14 pm »

Quote from: yotsuya on June 30, 2011, 10:44:26 am

Looks good. Did you put anything on the door (paint stripper) before you used the wheel? I have a door I want to strip and was going to go the wire wheel route as well.

At first I just used the wheel. It worked but had to keep the wheel in the same spot for awhile to get it down to metal. I ended up using paint stripper in the end. It took 99% of it off. Then I hit it with the wheel again to get the other 1% and to clean it up a bit. I would suggest just trying the wheel by itself because they both ended up taking roughly the same amount of time. Also I have a thorough hatred for paint stripper now.

Donkbaca · « **Reply #31 on:** June 30, 2011, 12:17:49 pm »

I just used a wheel on mine, and I didn't primer it, I used the rustoleum hammered black finish on it. I love the old coin doors with the chrome on them...

yotsuya · « **Reply #32 on:** June 30, 2011, 12:54:28 pm »

Quote from: AlienInferno on June 30, 2011, 12:16:14 pm

Quote from: yotsuya on June 30, 2011, 10:44:26 am
Looks good. Did you put anything on the door (paint stripper) before you used the wheel? I have a door I want to strip and was going to go the wire wheel route as well.

At first I just used the wheel. It worked but had to keep the wheel in the same spot for awhile to get it down to metal. I ended up using paint stripper in the end. It took 99% of it off. Then I hit it with the wheel again to get the other 1% and to clean it up a bit. I would suggest just trying the wheel by itself because they both ended up taking roughly the same amount of time. Also I have a thorough hatred for paint stripper now.

Thanks. I'm going to go get the wheel in a few hours. Fortunately, it's a single door, not an over/under, so it shouldn't be as bad. I'm also going to hit it with the Rustoleum Hammered Black finish.

AlienInferno · « **Reply #33 on:** June 30, 2011, 09:30:15 pm »

Got the coin door painted, reassembled, and installed. I think it looks pretty good.

On the locks. Does the locking bar on the back of the lock supposed to be up against the wood part of the cab or just against the door frame?

Jp19 · « **Reply #34 on:** July 01, 2011, 10:21:40 am »

Quote from: AlienInferno on June 30, 2011, 09:30:15 pm

Got the coin door painted, reassembled, and installed. I think it looks pretty good.

On the locks. Does the locking bar on the back of the lock supposed to be up against the wood part of the cab or just against the door frame?

mine are against the frame only

yotsuya · « **Reply #35 on:** July 01, 2011, 12:10:49 pm »

Quote from: AlienInferno on June 30, 2011, 09:30:15 pm

Got the coin door painted, reassembled, and installed. I think it looks pretty good.

Your door looks really good.

As an aside, it took me two

hours to strip just the front side of the door. I got the 3" fine wire cup as shown in other threads. Should I have gotten the course one instead? Or does it just take that long?

Donkbaca · « **Reply #36 on:** July 01, 2011, 12:48:31 pm »

I think I took about an hour or so....

yotsuya · « **Reply #37 on:** July 01, 2011, 12:57:26 pm »

There was an extra layer of paint, as someone had tried to repaint the door once, it would seem. I also sprayed it with some Goof-Off from time to time, but it didn't seem as easy as I anticipated. Oh well- yet another learning experience!

AlienInferno · « **Reply #38 on:** July 04, 2011, 12:33:42 am »

Small update.

Thinking about changing my theme. I just can't seem to find any good images to use as a marquee or control panel art. I'm a big anime fan so I've been playing with the idea of a Outlaw Star themed cab. Could call it the Outlaw Starcade.

AND I finally ordered a few parts/items over the last couple of days. (used my debit card's rewards points cash back option to pay for them

)

1st order: 100 each of the 2004, 2006, & 2007 tokens from Arcade Replay. Thanks Santoro! I figure 300 tokens should be enough to keep my cab operating. Plus maybe I can rig up a token dispenser with that bill acceptor I have.

2nd order: Ordered 17 Electric Ice 2 pushbuttons, one of their prefabbed RGB lighting system pcb thingies, 1 RGB LED with resistors, a player 1 start, a player 2 start, and an LEDwiz from GGG. I think that's everything.

Still planning on getting the Electric Ice T trackball from GGG and a couple U360's and iPac2 from Ultimarc.

Long post for a small update!

----------------------------------

On a side note: I've allready thought of a few (semi arcarde related) ideas that the LEDwiz might be good for. Might have to make up a mini version just to see.

AlienInferno · « **Reply #39 on:** July 07, 2011, 01:19:55 am »

Got my TV decased and installed in the cab today. Haven't got it exactly bolted down where I want her. She sits alittle low on the right side. Other then that she's working good. O-yeah. It's plugged in through Svideo.

Also found an old pair of PC speakers that originally came with this computer. Sony Vaio from way back in the day. I lost the 12 volt wall wart though so going to see if I can't hardwire them to a spare connector on the power supply.

Wouldn't mind getting a sub for that little extra bass kick but IMO just playing the games it shouldn't matter too much. I guess I'll see when I get them working.

On to pics. Crappy pics.


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