By the way, does anyone know how long it takes for GGG.com to ship out orders? Placed order on Monday and it still says processing.
We had to get a bunch of RGB-Drives into the pipeline for all of the orders that came in for these. We also had back orders for a few hundred that took precedence over new orders. New orders should start shipping tomorrow.
That bottom looks like it would come off easy. I'm gonna have to order some and beat the hell out of them to test this theory...
Backseat engineers

All motion is limited at the plunger, as it should be. You would need to hit them with a 10lb sledge (thus destroying everything) to be able to exert any force at all on any of the switches. They aren't going to come off by themselves, or even through rough use.
Please let me know assuming you have a black light around somewhere. Based on the Satan's Hollow handle pics on your site, I BET YOU DO! 
Yep. And I was surprised to find that orange one actually does glow pretty well under UV. The other colors do not. One thing I was shooting for with the Electric ICE version was UV. These glow a very bright white under UV, which is by design. The orange one is a bonus

Also are you going to sell those leaf switches separately? I probably need a few dozen if they are same size as the 20 - 30 year old ones were.
Probably not. We are stocking these only as options for these buttons. They won't be drop in replacements for the old ones.
1) The leafs are tilted/angled towards the button. Won't this result in more resistance from the leaf ? (ie. more force (compared to a horizontal regular leaf-switch/button set-up)
No. Resistance here is dictated by where along the length of the blade the contact is made with the plunger, as well as the blade thickness. The closer to the end of the leaf, the less resistance there is. Angle makes little difference.
2) the used leafs look like they are of the small(er) kind. I've tried similar leafs that fit on a regular micro-switch button (think they came from Ponyboy). They were giving too much resistance IMHO, I think it was due to the smaller size. How about these leafs ?
I think it depends on what you expect with regard to how the button operates. As you know, leaf switches can be tweaked (bent) to whatever configuration a player is most comfortable with. These are no exception;
You can move the contact points so they connect with almost no pressure on plunger, but doing so will give firm resistance directly afterward, as you are then flexing 2 pieces of metal instead of one.
On the extreme opposite end of the spectrum, you can tweak the blades so that there is very little space between the contact points, but so far away from the plunger that nothing touches until you are very near the bottom of the plunger travel. This would give very light resistance, as only the internal spring would come into play until it hit the blades. But it might also be a bit counter intuitive, as most wouldn't expect to have to depress the button all of the way down before actuation of the switch occurs.
The design intent of these, without adjustment, is to have the top blade in contact with the plunger always, with the connection between the points being made about 3/4 of the travel. One of the biggest things that caused leaf switches to go out of whack in past designs was over bending. This design limits the travel, so this shouldn't be an issue.
One final comment about the leaf switches is that these are an "economy" switch. Anyone who has shopped around knows that really nice leaf switches have a hefty price tag (most costing more than what we are charging for both the button and the switch together). I do have a source for 1980's quality switches, but indicators are that they also carry a high price tag (I asked the manufacturer 5 times for ballpark pricing and he never replied to the question

). I came to the conclusion that most won't be willing to spend that much for a switch and would be happy with something that was reasonable in both cost and performance. Was I correct? (seriously, looking for input

)
RandyT