Digital Dream Machine 08 - My First cab

[koinsatx]

Well after a year of thinking about it and reading many post on the subject, I have begun my very first arcade cab. With inspiration and ideas from the board, I have chosen a design and begun the project. I am documenting the steps as I go with both photos and notes and will be sure to post as I go.  I have been busy reading the Project Arcade book and researching here on BYOAC as well.

Some aspects of the project have been thought out, where others still are yet to be decided upon. Here is a list of what I know so far.

Cabinet Style:  Ultimate Arcade II
Material:  3/4" MDF   (ran into last minute snafu obtaining 5/8" MDF)
Monitor: 27/29" Makvision Tri-Mode Arcade Monitor (probable) backup is 21" Sony CRT
Controls: (1) Happ 3" trackball, (1) Slikstick spinner, (2) Happ Super-8 Joysticks, (1) Happ Super Joystick 1 3/8 Red Ball Knob, (lots) Happ Microswitch buttons
Interface: Ipac2 (PS/2), Optipac (USB)
Misc: Functioning coin door, LED light bar, 3/4" T-Molding, 50w amp, (2) 4" speakers, Cabinet Grips, 2" casters
Software: MAMEUI, Maximus Arcade frontend , Win XP,


Items which I am still trying to decide on include:

Paint:  Probably go with enamel in case I want to use vinyl sideart (I heard it doesn't do well with latex)
Paint Colors: Black/Red?
Side Art: ?
CPO: ?
CPU: Not sure what computer parts I will end up using

I appreciate any constructive comments or suggestions on the project as I go and look forward to learning as I build my first cab.

Koinsatx

[koinsatx]

I intended to use 5/8" MDF but due to an mistake at Lowes I ended up with 3/4" MDF.  After loading the truck, it was off to home and start drawing. I had printed out the UAII plans from the book and given them a once over. I then setup my workspace in the garage and began transferring measurements from my printouts to the MDF.  This phase took longer than I expected but was not too difficult.  Patience and double checking measurements were the key here.

Several items that were invaluable for this:

Metal yardstick with both 1/8 and 1/16" markings
Drywall 4' T-Square - great for making the 90 degree markings and ensuring straight lines
Saw Horses - put the wood at a good working height, the knees and back are not as good as they used to be
Lighting - Good lighting to ensure you can see all those markings

At the end of transferring all the markings to MDF I had about 6 hours invested.

[koinsatx]

Transferring the drawings to MDF may have took a little time but definitely did not compare to the work of cutting the pieces out.  Again, things always seem easier than they actually are. I drug the first victim (MDF) out to my workspace taking into consideration the amount of dust I expected.  I wasn't wrong here, this MDF gets dust everywhere. Luckily I took the suggestion from others and invested in a respirator, well worth the $29 at Lowes. I may have looked like a storm trooper reject but I was breathing clean air.

Back to cutting, this was rather tiring work. Taking it slow to setup a straight edge on every cut and ensure a straight line was key. Most of the cuts were done with my circular saw as the initial pieces were too big for my table saw. The table saw did come in handy for some of the smaller pieces. 

Tools I would not have done without:

Circular Saw with 40 tooth blade
An 8' straight edge - a great $20 investment
table saw is great if you have access to one
some good clamps - to hold the straight edge in place
a good working area - need area to move around
Respirator - again, worth $29 bucks
safety glasses

After all cuts are done and a couple of breaks, 13 hours invested.

[koinsatx]

Here are a few more pics from my cutting and then sanding some pieces. Even with using a straight edge I have learned a few things about woodworking. My experience in woodworking so far is I have some of the tools just not the experience.  Several mistakes I made involved not always making my cuts on the same side of line. I also forgot to take in to account the width of the saw of blade on several cuts. Again, all mistakes of a novice wood worker.

Even though the side pieces were traced off each other, they did require sanding to make them identical. This is where my belt sander came in handy with a 50 grit belt. It easily ate through the MDF so I recommend caution here. 

Tools that came in handy:

Belt sander - 50 grit
Respirator
clamps

I guess we will see how good the cuts are as the pieces come together.

Up to this point I have 14 hours invested.

[DaOld Man]

looks like you are off to a great start!

[koinsatx]

Well tonight I finished my base except for some minor sanding. This was a fairly easy task once I decided between legs or wheels and then size and location. I decided to try casters as it looks like that is the popular choice.

I went with 2" casters rated at 125lbs each. This concerned me a bit since I imagine the cab will weigh more but hoping that weight spread over 4 casters will be ok. I also wasn't sure about placement of the caster. I decided to put the swivel casters in the rear and fixed in the front. In order to solve the problem of access the locking casters, I left off the rear trim piece. I figured this will be against the wall and no one should be able to see it. I should be able to reach around the rear and lock/unlock the casters.

I am also a little concerned about the rear casters being offset about an inch and half from the front. I did this so it would allow the casters to swivel without hitting the trim pieces. Should be ok.

I also used liquid nails for the initial installation and finished the trim off with 3 countersunk screws each.

tools recommended for this phase:

wood putty
countersink drill bit
1" #8 screws
liquid nails
sand paper
clamps

This took about 2 hours for a total of 16 hours invested so far.

[koinsatx]

Currently waiting for my 1/16" slot cutter to arrive, ordered from Amazon.  It is amazing, I visited 2 Lowes, 2 Home Depots, Sears and an Ace Hardware and no one has a 1/16" slot cutter...   ugghhhh...

Oh well should be here in the next day or two... also awaiting Ipac and Optipak to arrive within the next couple of days...

Once the slot cutter arrives, I get to test my router skills...  this should be funny...

[koinsatx]

Stuck waiting for my slot cutter and not wanting to assemble the pieces before cutting for t-molding.  So today, I went ahead and finished cutting out the opening for the functioning coin door. Nothing overly complicated here.

I did decide to raise it a little higher than recommended in the plans. I did not want to have bend down as far as the original plans wanted. Still to be seen whether the control panel overhang will causes an issues with access or blocking access. Should be good to go though.

tools required:

Jigsaw

Time invested so far 17 hours.

[paulscade]

Hey... the project looks good!

You remind me of me.      ... from the 2 x 4's being used on the driveway for your cutting... to the 13 hours spent to complete all the cuts (same as my UAII project exactly).

Nice work.

[koinsatx]

Thanks -

 Same exact number of hours?   weird.....  I do have to give you credit on keeping track of hours for each update. Thought that was a great idea.  I can't believe how the hours add up so quickly.

 Good news here.... my IPAC and OPTIpac showed up today!  yeah.....   Now if that darn slot cutter would just show up I could get back to work.

Kevin

[Stobe]

Looking good so far.  I decided not to track time or money on my first project, since I would probably be an ex-member by now

You are learning some good lessons about woodworking.  I had a master furniture builder tell me the other day, that there is no right or wrong when it comes to lining your saw blade on your line --- as long as you always line it up the same exact way yourself.  Not sure if he is right or wrong, but at least it validated my guess from long ago, lol.

And if you ever need to order router bits again, have you checked MLCS yet?  Good prices, and free shipping.  I always get my slit cutters from them.  (not sure how good a deal you got from Amazon, just adding my 2 cents just in case).

Link

They also have 1-1/8" Forstner bits for $7.95 - great for clean button holes.

Good luck and keep up the good work.

-Stobe

[koinsatx]

Stobe,

Thanks for the info on the slot cutters, for some reason the they were impossible to find locally in 1/16"

I will check out the site.

Kevin

[Stobe]

No problem.

Also, I'm not sure what brand of T-molding you are using, but on T-molding.com, they have diagrams that suggest what size slot to cut (but read them carefully, don't choose the slot width that matches the width of the barbs).

I think I actually used a 3/32" slot vs a 1/16".  It was tight enough to hold the barbs, but not so tight that I had to maul the tmolding to get it in the groove.

-Stobe

[koinsatx]

Stobe,

 I'm using the T-molding from Happ since I got an exceptional deal on it. The 1/16" slot cutter worked wonderfully. The slot was a little tight but it went in easily with a few taps of the rubber mallet.

Kevin

[koinsatx]

Well after an extended wait, my slot cutter finally arrived and I began cutting today. I have never really used this type of router bit before but it was as easy as everyone has said on the board. The only problem I had was adjusting the depth to the precise center of the MDF since I had an older router.

I began slot cutting just the bottom portions as I was anxious to get some pieces assembled.   Here are a couple of shots.  PS.  this generated a TON of dust!

This took less than 30 minutes to include some test cuts and some adjustments.

Tools used:
1/16" 3 wing slot cutter
Router
Respirator

[koinsatx]

After the slots were cut on the base I was anxious to begin the assembly. A couple of items to mention here.

Since I was the only one available at the time it was rather difficult to line up the bottom side pieces since adding the casters.  Again, here make sure you have drawn out all your measurements to give you lines that you can use to line up on. At some point when I was driving the screws in, I scooted the cab against the wall to help hold it in place while I put in the screws. 

I probably went overkill by adding more screws than the plans call for. Additionally, I also used liquid nails.  This stuff is not going anywhere.

Everything lined up fairly well, at least no gaps that some wood putty couldn't fill.  I ended up placing the "D" board 3/4" back to accommodate the keyboard drawer face so it would be flush. 

Tools Used:

1 1/4 screws
Liquid nails
Drill
counter sink bit
ruler

At this point I have a total of 19 hours invested.

PS. Broke my counter sink bit, damn.. off to Lowes again tomorrow.

[koinsatx]

Today I continued work on the cabinet base. I finished up the keyboard drawer. This was a little challenging making sure it was even, flush on the front and still slid and opened easily.  I could not find 12" drawer slides as the plans called for and went with 16" instead.  I did not really notice a difference.

When I put on the slides, I attached them to the drawer sides first. I then tacked the cabinet slides on in the rear which allowed me to swivel up and down to level it out. After a few repositions, everything turned out pretty decent. 

I installed a small simple black handle that should not be too noticeable under the CP.

I have never installed drawer slide before and wasn't sure what was top and what was bottom. It seems to work ok as installed so regardless if it is right or wrong, it's staying.

[koinsatx]

I finished up for the evening by installing the monitor shelf support, monitor shelf and bracing the the inside of the cabinet. 

I have a tendency to over build and thought a 2x4 inner frame at the base would help support the overall structure.  (Thanks Paul for the idea).

I have also not finished off the back of the cabinet yet. I am still toying with ideas of a possible hinged back to allow easy access yet cover the rear.

Tools used:

Drill
Countersink bit
Liquid nails
#8 screws
level

Total time invested so far is 21 hours.

[koinsatx]

Tonight I worked on assembling the upper half of the cabinet. Nothing to difficult here except paying attention to make sure both the left and right upper sides are even with each other. I used a straight edge and ruler to ensure it.

I also connected the top of the marquee and the speaker boards.  I am using two 4" speakers so I centered them equally from both sides. I used a compass to draw the circles and a jigsaw to cut them out.

I also mounted monitor shelf brackets under the already stable monitor shelf. As I said before I tend to overbuild but heck this this will hold some weight.

I have left off the back pieces for now as I think it will be easier to test fit the monitor with out them.

Tools used:

Drill
screws
counter sink bit
level
jigsaw

Total time of project at this point is 21 hours.

[koinsatx]

Starting to feel like the assembly is getting there.  Finished up a couple of the top panels and one of the back panels.

Though the plans did not call for it, I decided to add a board to support the LED light bar that will illuminate the marquee. Nothing fancy, just a couple of L brackets and a scrap of MDF board.

Also still debating about putting the rear board on a hinge to allow access to the back of the monitor if necessary.

I also added a small trim piece to the rear of the monitor shelf just to catch anything that may slide down.

That is all for tonight, working on a few more tweaks to the cabinet before sanding and painting. Still trying to decide on color scheme also.

At this point I have 22.5 hours

[koinsatx]

Spent a lot of time in the garage today but was able to get quite a bit done. I am nearing the end of the messy work and getting close to primer and paint.

My current plan for a monitor is to run a 21" Sony CRT for a short time until I am able to purchase my Makvision Trimode arcade monitor. Because of this I did not want to build a monitor frame into the cabinet as this will change down the road. 

In order to solve this I decided to do a modular monitor mount for my cab.  I built a monitor frame that slides into the cab and is secured to the monitor shelf with 3" Hex Bolts. This will allow me to unbolt the monitor and slide the entire mounting frame and all in and out with no changes to the cab.

Not sure if many others have tried this but it looks like it will work for me.

[koinsatx]

After getting the monitor frame done I started on some filling and sanding. Filling all countersunk screw holes and seems with wood putty and then sanding with 150 grit sand paper.

I also installed a small shelf inside the bottom of the cab to cover the front caster bolts and provide a better looking inside cab. I did not fill these holes so the shelf can be easily removed if casters ever need to be replaced.

I also built my CP today!  I went with a basic design (rectangle), I did not want to attempt an angular cuts and wanted to keep it somewhat simple.

My CP measurements are 16 X 29.   With 4 1/2" in front to 5 1/2" in the rear. (these measurements do not include the top piece)


I still have not figured out how to hinge it and have been studying everyones solutions so far.

A little more sanding tomorrow and it will be ready for primer.

Tools used:

Table saw
Jigsaw
Liguid nails
150 grit sand paper

At this point I have about 31 hours invested.

[koinsatx]

I finally applied the first coat of primer today.  I decided to go with an oil based tinted primer from Home depot. The primer was tinted specifically to match the color I chose for the sides. I picked up a couple of 1/4" knap rollers and a 2" brush also.

I left the front of the cab go for now as I intend on a different color scheme for the front of the cab. I also decided to attempt painted pinstripes which you can see the tape lines where I applied primer over the top.

The tinted primer should allow me to go with just 1 coat and hopefully can put the first coat of paint on tomorrow.

I am also debating on leaving just a primer coat for the inside of the cab.

So far I have 36.5 hours invested in the project.

[paulscade]

Those stripes are going to look sharp...

and I like your modular monitor mounting... pretty cool idea.

[koinsatx]

Thanks!

Well I had to come up with a temporary monitor solution until I can swing the Makvision.  The monitor slides in nicely and is definitely secure when I put those hex bolts in.

Hope the pinstripes work out.... that is something just I am doing off the cuff....  time will tell....  should have my first coat ready to go soon...

Off to the garage for more painting....

[soup]

Hmmmm, where have I seen you cab before....

(I have the same monitor for the same cab I'm building)

[koinsatx]

Soup,

 Nice choice in monitor..lol   

 I had a bear of a time getting that case off.  I also took a dremel and cut out part of the base to make the control panel fit snug under the monitor. 

 Good luck on the cab, I hope to have some updates and pics this weekend.

[soup]

Excellent, keep those updates coming. 

My UAII is taking forever to build, I first got stalled at having to move into our new house, but my latest procrastination is due to artwork. I was going to use a space invaders side art I had designed/hacked (let me know if your interested), but decided my need for full replication required a dedicated restoration project so I am also (more procrastination) building a Double Dragon Cabinet. Unfortunately I still have no idea about what art work to use (I want to do something more than a typical 'Mame' theme).

I'm still deciding whether to use the 21" monitor, although it is great (I like the second input option) there is a guy close by who sells chassis to fit TV tubes that apparently makes them better than the original arcade monitors (something about 'B' class and 'A' class) and is heaps cheap.
I cant remember having too much difficulties getting the case off the monitor, however I had to bend those 'metal tangs' to get the wooden frame to snugly fit (which is yet to be mounted correctly). How far back does your monitor sit?

Would be  interested to see how (if) you do a glass bezel. I've come up with a few ideas how to mount one but have yet to implement anything.

[koinsatx]

Soup,

 I believe the monitor is sitting back 1 1/2" from the front of the opening.  I can squeeze a little more out of it if required by but I think that will do for me. 

 The bezel I am still thinking on but should have something shortly. Will definitely post details when I get to that point.

 Right now I am leaning with some type of 1/4 bezel that I would then cover with a 3/16" piece of glass.

[koinsatx]

Ok, I have my painting done and I definitely learned a few things.  Though a lot of people on the board seem to use a 100% acrylic enamel latex paint with great results, I did not like the paint.  I went with an oil based primer and should have went with a oil based enamel as well but did not against my better wishes.

At this point I am going to stick with it as I do like the colors and the texture.  I am concerned with the wear ability of the paint.  I have two coats on it but it seems to scratch really easily. I am not about to go through that process again so just chalk that up to lesson learned.

Another note to mention, I used only a 1/2 gallon of paint and primer.  So I should have bought quarts and saved a little money.

I attempted pin stripes which came out ok but it would have been much easier to to apply with vinyl artwork vs painting.

I ran out of T-molding as I had only ordered 25 feet.  40' feet would have provided plenty of left over.

I also installed the coin mech and speakers...

Tools used:

1/4 knap rollers
painters tape
100% acrylic latex enamel
rubber mallet for t-molding

Total time in project so far: 43 hours

[koinsatx]

I finished off the T-molding and relocated the cab down to the game room area.  Even though there is no monitor mounted, it was still quite heavy.

I installed the speaker wiring down to the small kiosk amp located in the bottom. I purchased a small audio kiosk kit from Happ.  http://www.happcontrols.com/amusement/jukebox/495140200k.htm

It sounds pretty decent considering I am just running older arcade games.

I also installed the NovaMatrix LED light bar.  I saw this on paulsarcade and took a liking to it.  It is simple to hookup, especially if you pick up the power cable adapter for a couple of bucks from GGG.

I also decided to try and create a bezel out of 1/4" poster form board that I picked up at the local craft store. It was easy to cut and should look fine behind my glass once that is installed.

next is contining to hook up some wiring and messing with the PC installation.

So far I have 48 hours invested.

[Santoro]

Looking good, nice and clean.

[koinsatx]

Thanks santoro,

 I have to admit I am quite happy the way it is going... though the CP is coming up so this will be next challenge.

 There are a ton of things that I have learned on this project and I can already see things I would improve on for the next cab. 

Damn, no one told me of the addiction possibility.

Kevin

[koinsatx]

It has been a bit since my last post as I have slacked off a bit on the build. I am at the CP part and still deciding which direction to go.

This past weekend I got the CP designed and cut out with only once slight hiccup. 

CAUTION:  When cutting out the buttons and joysticks, make sure your on the correct side.  For the right player, I had the board upside down and placed some joystick buttons on the wrong side of the 2nd joystick. 

So why this layout was not planned I think it will work out in the end. This way and left handers will definitely feel comfortable.

[koinsatx]

It also helps when your brother has machine shop in his backyard!

I was able to do some pretty intricate routing on his milling machine.  We were able to custom fit the Happ 3" trackball for perfect stabilization.

This took a few hours but the results far exceeded my expectations. 

The drill press also came in quite handy for those perfectly straight holes.

[koinsatx]

After reading many of the threads on the best way to mount the joysticks I decided to go with threaded inserts. (Thanks Randy).  I was able to purchase these at Lowes, though a little pricey at 4 for $3.50.

The idea is the joysticks are mounted from underneath and nothing will be showing on the top of the CP.

I started by drilling a 1/4" hole with a drill bit, then followed up with a 3/8" paddle bit about halfway down the original 1/4" hole.   I then placed the hammer-in threaded inserts in the holes and just hammered them into place. I tested these things and the strength is incredible with the teeth on these things. I don't see these popping out no matter how hard you pull on the sticks.

At this point I have about 60 hours into the project.  I will go ahead and paint the CP this week and still trying to decide on my artwork. 

[koinsatx]

Well after some off and on work over the past few weeks, I have some updates finally.   First I finished deciding how I would mount the control panel to the cab after some research and talking to others.

Have to give Pauls Arcade credit on the best way to mount the CP to the cab using Rockler Fricition catches. They are extremely easy to install and very secure.  I had purchased a set of four of the catches for a little less than $3 apiece.  After installing the rear catches I was amazed at how solid the CP stuck to the cab. I am going to stay with 2 for now and perhaps save the other two for the next project.

Thanks Paul!

[koinsatx]

Second thing was how to hinge the CP top to the CP bottom.  I definitely needed it to be hinged from the front and I have about 3/4" overhang to deal with. 

After seeing Blind_dato's video on CP hinges, I was sold.  http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=86525.0

I ordered a set from Rockler, ordering a pair of  Blum 95° Thick Door Clip Top Hinges Inset for about $18.  A little pricey but they work like a charm.  I did have to order a 1 3/8" forstner bit to install them for about $10 but the installation is quite easy.  Measure a hole 7/8" from the edge and drill.

Couldn't be happier...

[paulscade]

Nice friction catches.   

Yea... after seeing that video, I too thought that those were the perfect hinges.  I really liked the "snap on/snap off" for the control panel top.  The only minus (and I'd only consider it a small minus) is that they only open 90 degrees.

Does the CP top stay open or do you need to prop it?

[koinsatx]

Paul,

 Even though they advertise 90 degrees, with the weight of the CP it actually is probably closer to 93 degrees.  It has no problem staying open on its own. I will probably put a chain to relieve any stress the weight of the CP may cause over time.

See for yourself.