Someone call the cops! I stole a Jukebox!! MAGNETS??? [03.05.2009]

[mountain]

That looks great! 

This was quite tricky to accomplish. There wasn't much room to clamp down the straight edge so I had to get creative.

I actually used a brad nailer to tack a straight edge to the piece. Since it was being covered with Plexiglas, I sanded the face down smooth before gluing.

[Kaytrim]

One of the rules of woodworking is you can never have enough clamps.   This is looking real good keep it up.  You want to get to that DK cab I know it.

TTFN
Kaytrim

[Franco B]

Your really motoring now!

Did you get one of the Dell speaker bars in the end? The reason I ask is that mine arrived this morning and ive tried to disassemble the damn thing but its solid! I was just wondering if had tried to get yours apart.

They do sound great though for a small unit, I can definitely recommend them. As mountain said they are great for casual listening.

[javeryh]

Thanks everyone!  I'm quite motivated to finish now that I have the DK just sitting there.

Franco - I did purchase one of the Dell Speaker Bars (with the power cord) but I haven't hooked it up yet or tried taking it apart.  I'll let you know how I get it open if I decide to open it up - shouldn't I just install it on the bottom facing out?  Is there a reason to take it apart?

mountain - I'm seriously "not allowed" to buy a brad nailer per the wife's paranoia which I guess is OK since you never know with kids around.  It sure would make life easier!

 

[Franco B]

Yeah you can just install it with the bottom facing out, I wanted to take it apart to try to hack the volume control. There is also a nice blue LED inside the speaker grill that lights up when you power on, I was going to change it for a pink LED but its solid. I spoke to mountain and he wasn't able to get his apart either, he seems to think they may have glued it on assembley. I dont know why they would but there is no way its coming apart easily. I may have to get the dremel out   

[javeryh]

Yeah you can just install it with the bottom facing out, I wanted to take it apart to try to hack the volume control. There is also a nice blue LED inside the speaker grill that lights up when you power on, I was going to change it for a pink LED but its solid. I spoke to mountain and he wasn't able to get his apart either, he seems to think they may have glued it on assembley. I dont know why they would but there is no way its coming apart easily. I may have to get the dremel out   

Hmmm... you just reminded me of something - I was thinking about relocating the volume knob on the speaker bar to the back panel where the rest of the ports are going.  Do you think it's worth the trouble?  I assume mountain just turned his all the way up when he installed it and then just modifies the volume with the Griffin PowerMate.  Actually, I'm not sure there is a reason to relocate the knob on the speaker bar... I might have just talked myself out of it... 

Definitely take pics if you start tearing it up with the dremel!   

[mountain]

You are correct! That is what I did. It worked out well since the volume knob is on the side.

[javeryh]

Alright, some more progress and some more pics:

Here's where it started to get fun - I actually got to work with a material other than MDF! I glued the black Plexiglas (using contact cement) to the front panel. I ordered it from US Plastics and it arrived in the mail 2 days later well packaged and in great condition. It was $21.00 shipped for the sheet. It comes with a protective layer of paper on both sides. The first thing I did was trace the shape of the panel onto the Plexiglas.



Next, I used a razor to score just outside of the lines and then I removed the paper covering to exposed the Plexiglas. Before applying any glue I made sure to rough up the surface of the Plexiglas with some 100 grit sandpaper to give the glue something to hold on to.



The directions on the can of contact cement said to wait 15-20 minutes after applying the glue before sticking it together but that seemed WAY too long of a time (it dried pretty quick). I ended up applying a second coat of glue. I put two sheets of MDF on top and then two cinder blocks on top of that for some downward pressure.



It appears to have dried OK but after doing a bit more research I should have waited the 15 minutes. Apparently, the glue actually does dry and then bonds to the other surface when they are attached since you coat both surfaces. This info will come in handy when I laminate the outer shell.



The next step was trimming the Plexiglas to the exact size of the MDF template using a 1/2" flush trimming bit. Because the bit has a 1/2" diameter ball bearing it left a rounded corner in all of the openings which is exactly what I wanted.

More later.   

[DaOld Man]

Looks good!
How did you line up the front panel on the acrylic so good?
I know that as soon as the two glued pieces touch thats it. It doesnt allow any time to adjust the two pieces.
I like the idea of only cutting the paper where it needs to glue. If I had done that on my last juke I would have had some pieces of acrylic left that I could use on other projects. 

[javeryh]

Looks good!
How did you line up the front panel on the acrylic so good?
I know that as soon as the two glued pieces touch thats it. It doesnt allow any time to adjust the two pieces.
I like the idea of only cutting the paper where it needs to glue. If I had done that on my last juke I would have had some pieces of acrylic left that I could use on other projects. 

I just eyeballed it and got lucky I guess.  On the right side of the last pic you can't see it but there is a 1/2" overhang of the Plexiglas - I certainly didn't try to line it up with the edge!   Cutting it to size was ... not hard but different than I had expected. 

[mountain]

Come on man! You skipped a day on us. I can't wait to see this thing through completion.

Any updates?

[javeryh]

Come on man! You skipped a day on us. I can't wait to see this thing through completion.

Any updates?

hahaha, yeah I've got some updates but I'm getting killed at work.  I'll update as soon as I get the chance...   We are almost caught up to real time though and that's when things will start to drag... 

[javeryh]

OK here's where I'm going to have to ask for some help.... selecting the computer and parts...  I'm terrible at this.  Anyway, I know I want to get a mini-itx board so it will fit inside the juke.  I found this one for $70 on newegg which had 70+ reviews and an average of 5 stars so it should be OK:



Intel BOXD945GCLF Intel Atom processor 230 Intel 945GC Mini ITX Motherboard/CPU Combo
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813121342

What I guess I'm asking for is a list of compatible parts that will go with this motherboard.  I know not all parts talk to each other (SATA? Intel vs. AMD, etc.).  I'm thinking I need:

1GB RAM
Power Supply
Hard Drive (320GB-500GB)
Wireless Internet Card

Any recommendations from newegg would be great.  Also, let me know if I left anything out.  I am planning on using the jukebox for music primarily but also for browsing the internet, and playing some games that will work with a touch screen like Poker, Zuma, Bejeweled, etc.  I don't need top of the line anything but just something that will do what I want it to do. 

[Kaytrim]

Well looking at the specs on this motherboard there is only one memory slot.  It accepts DDR2 SDRAM DIMM at 533 or 667 Mhz speed.  You will need either a 1 or 2 GB memory DIMM.  I always recommend getting as much RAM as you can afford.  Here is a 2MB DIMM for $30

Back to the specs you have two SATA ports.  With that you should be able to use any SATA hard drive you choose.  Here is one that is 650GB for $80

For the power supply looks like you will have to get one of the cases that NewEgg has for sale.  This one is for sale at $45.

Total is $226 plus shipping.  Nice price, darn I might have to get that myself.

Hope this helps.  TTFN
Kaytrim

[javeryh]

Wow thanks Kaytrim - this is exactly the info I was looking for.  Also, a 640GB hard drive for $70?!?!?  Unreal.  Should I get an internet card too?  The internet seemed fairly easy to navigate with the touch screen so I thought it might be a bonus to hook it up to my wireless router.  Also, I don't need a case but is that the only way to get a power supply for one of these mini itx boards?  I assume it is removable...   

[Kaytrim]

There is a network card built into the motherboard.  Unless you want a wireless card then look for a USB model.  Make sure that you get a WiFi adapter instead of a BlueTooth adapter.  Here is a list at NewEgg.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=4803&Description=wireless%20usb%20adapter&name=Discount%20Item

TTFN
Kaytrim

[Martijn]

I love this juke, maybe ill build one for in my moms new house.

Keep it up, the hardest work has been done now i think and the fun stuff comes 

[javeryh]

Thanks!  Though I can assure you that the hardest part is not over with (well it might be but not based on what I posted so far  ).  Mounting the monitor behind the screen was 

Kaytrim - thanks again for the link.  Unless someone chimes in by Sunday night I think I'm going to pull the trigger.  I really need to start gathering the remaining parts...   

[leapinlew]

Unless someone chimes in by Sunday night I think I'm going to pull the trigger.  I really need to start gathering the remaining parts...   

I can verify it's a good board...

Lets see some pics of how you mounted it!

[richms]

They are good boards, great price and quite fast for the power and money spent. When I last looked at it intel had one that was let down by a craptastic sis chipset but they have sorted that this time on the intel board. Dont let anyone sell you a D201GLY2 - they are total crap and not a lot cheaper.

I have 2 projects waiting on me getting the cash together for one of the atom boards, I was initially wanting to get a socket AM2+ board in ITX but really that's overkill and the atom boards are just so much cheaper. Its quite ironic that they need more cooling on the chipset then the CPU.

[Franco B]

Unless someone chimes in by Sunday night I think I'm going to pull the trigger.  I really need to start gathering the remaining parts...  

I can verify it's a good board...

Lets see some pics of how you mounted it!

If it helps im thinking of mounting my Mini ITX directly to the inside of the access door on the back of Pinky as im limited on space and it should also save mounting another piece of material inside the juke.

[Kaytrim]

Also, I don't need a case but is that the only way to get a power supply for one of these mini itx boards?  I assume it is removable...   

I know that this may be a bit late but the power supply in that case is removable.  There are 4 screws on the back panel that hold the PS in place.  I can't tell by the pics if there are any on the bottom but probably not.  I did some comparison and found a power supply that should meet the needs for $17

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817104118

TTFN
Kaytrim

[javeryh]

Thanks for the computer help everyone.  I'm going to go with exactly what Kaytrim picked out except I'm going to upgrade the power supply to something that is hopefully a little more efficient and quieter.  The bad part is that I have to have it shipped to my in-laws in MA to avoid $20 in taxes.  Hopefully they will come and visit soon! 

Anyway, here's another update!



Since the plexiglass was now glued to the front of the MDF template I was able to cut it to final size using my flush cutting bit and my router. The ball bearing on the bottom rides along the edges of the panel and the bit cuts through the plexiglass like butter. Here is a shot of how it works:



I had a harder time than I thought I would setting everything up and I had to switch bits in my router to cut out the interior areas (I tried starting with a drill bit and I chipped the plexi and almost had a heart attack!).

The front panel is looking pretty good now - the lines are clean and everything is symmetrical. The rounded corners are a nice touch too, IMO.





Next I'll show the always-exciting process of putting a 45 degree bevel on the edge. Too bad I can't remove the protective sticker until construction is finished - I'm anxious to see what it looks like!

More later.   

[DaOld Man]

Looking real good JH!!
How are you going to get the acrylic off the template?
(I think you said you glued it?)

I drilled starter holes on my acrylic with a 1/2" paddle bit. I used a piece of scrap under it, ran drill fast and pushed on drill slowly.

[Franco B]

Good work buddy, gotta love those flush trim bits!! 

[javeryh]

Thanks guys!  Trimming the Plexiglas was definitely fun.  I'm not going to be removing it from the MDF template - I will flip the thing over and rout away material from the back so everything will sit flush with the Plexiglas.  Then I'll just glue what's left of it along with the Plexiglas to the shell.   

[javeryh]

The next thing I did was put a 45 degree bevel on the edges of the black Plexiglas. I used my router again and a chamfering bit and just ran the ball bearing around the interior openings. This is purely for decorative purposes. Eventually, I will have to sand and polish the beveled edge using some high grit sandpaper and the Novus 3 step polishing system to get rid of all the scuff marks left by the router bit.  I hope I can get it looking as nice as mountain does.







I really like how it came out and I'm starting to see what the finished product will look like even though I have a ton left to do.



Next up is the screen mount!  More later.   

[javeryh]

This is the part where things got interesting.... and tedious.  Since the front of the, um... front panel was more or less complete, I turned my attention to mounting everything to it from behind. This required a bit of routing on the back of the panel to allow everything to sit flush with the Plexiglas. 

The first thing I did was build a jig to hold the panel in place and also give me more surface area to rest the base of the router on. I need to have a steady hand for this part because the cuts must be precise.



Once everything was set up I laid out the areas where I would be removing material. I want to be accurate but it is more important that the final depth of my router bit is set at exactly the thickness of the MDF (1/2"). I wanted to remove all of the material on top of the plexiglass but I do not want to chip it. The first area I decided to finish was the marquee opening. I busted out my trusty circle jig and carefully removed 1/8" of material around the top edge. The only thing I didn't get to right away was the area around the volume knob.



If you look close you can see the exposed Plexiglas area. I had to use a razor blade to scrape away a paper-thin layer of MDF and contact cement on top of the Plexiglas which took quite some time.



This was just the first of many steps to get this panel ready to be attached to the jukebox shell... stay tuned.   

[javeryh]

I started polishing the beveled edge on the Plexiglas last night and I'm really having a hard time with it.  I started with 600 grit sandpaper, moved to 1000 grit and then 1500 grit.  Then I tried the novus polish.  The polish works GREAT on the sections I was able to get very very smooth with the sandpaper but there are still small nicks/craters along the center of the bevel. 

I think I need to go back over everything again - I might try starting with 400 or even 220 grit sandpaper and go from there.  Does anyone see a problem with this or should 600 grit be the roughest paper I use?  I spent about 4 hours on it last night - does it usually take this long?

[Kaytrim]

To polish plexiglas after a scratch I will use MicroMesh followed with the Novus.  MicroMesh is a washable/reuseable sanding cloth/pad that runs from 1500 all the way up to 12,000 grit.  If the scratch is bad or deep I'll start with a coarser grit paper 220 - 600 then go to the MicroMesh.  For what you are working on use this set.  The real nice thing about these is that you can use them wet or dry and even wash them with a little dish soap in the sink.  If you take care of them and don't force things then these will last a long time so worth the $20 the set costs.

After I go through the grits there is still a haze in the plexi so following up with the novus or other polish gets that last bit taken care of.  One things to keep in mind is the the next higher grit is removing the scratches of the previous grit.  If you leave a few scratches from the previous grit you will more than likely not remove them on the finer grits.  I know that you are a perfectionist so expect this to take some time.  Don't try to rush it or push too hard as it will make matters worse instead of better.

TTFN
Kaytrim

[mountain]

You can use 400 grit, just be careful. The 400 grit will round over your hard edges really easy and turn your 45 degree bevel into a 1/8" round over 

If the pits aren't too deep, the 600 grit will do the job if you stay with it.

[javeryh]

Thanks guys.  I guess I'll just stick with the 600 grit and go over everything again until I smooth it out.  I'm pretty patient when it comes to getting it right but it seems like it is taking longer than it should.  I want to finish this tonight or tomorrow at the latest so I'm going to try and make due with the supplies I already have.  I'll try and take a picture tonight so you can see what I'm talking about.  I think part of the problem lies in the crappy chamfer bit I used - I borrowed it from a friend and I don't think it was sharp enough or something.  Plus, it was quite a large bit and made for putting a 45 degree bevel on a piece of 3/4" plywood.  I'm mad at myself for not springing for the smaller $20 bit.

 

[Franco B]

Looking good buddy. I just wanted to echo what Kaytrim said.

One things to keep in mind is the the next higher grit is removing the scratches of the previous grit.  If you leave a few scratches from the previous grit you will more than likely not remove them on the finer grits.  I know that you are a perfectionist so expect this to take some time.  Don't try to rush it or push too hard as it will make matters worse instead of better.

[javeryh]

Looking good buddy. I just wanted to echo what Kaytrim said.

One things to keep in mind is the the next higher grit is removing the scratches of the previous grit.  If you leave a few scratches from the previous grit you will more than likely not remove them on the finer grits.  I know that you are a perfectionist so expect this to take some time.  Don't try to rush it or push too hard as it will make matters worse instead of better.

That is excellent advice.  I was definitely moving to a higher grit before removing ALL of the pits - I'm not sure what I was thinking.  *sigh*  I will start over tonight...  Also, mountain is right - it is starting to round over a little bit (the top and bottom edges look great).  I have to concentrate on applying pressure in the middle of the bevel.  It is pretty tiring though!  Maybe I'll wrap the sandpaper around a small block of wood to get a flat surface instead of using my fingers...

[mountain]

I posted this in my MAME cabinet thread. It looks like I may have left out the 1000/1500 grit steps but the basic idea is there; take your time and don't rush it.

[javeryh]

I posted this in my MAME cabinet thread. It looks like I may have left out the 1000/1500 grit steps but the basic idea is there; take your time and don't rush it.

Thanks for that.  I think I'm going to go down to 400 grit - carefully - and work up from there.  I have a lot of surface to cover since there are three openings.  Maybe I'll do one a night for the next 3 nights or something to have it finished by the end of the week.  At least I can do this in the TV room with the wife so we can spend time together.

[Martijn]

is it more work to start that piece over with all the experience you made?

then to scrub all evening and night

 

[javeryh]

is it more work to start that piece over with all the experience you made?

then to scrub all evening and night

 

Lets just say that I could sand all day and night for the next 2 days and I'd still come out ahead.  I have spent an UNBELIEVABLE amount of time on this panel - close to 50 hours easy.  Plus, I don't have enough Plexiglas to start over and it's not like I've made any mistakes or anything - it looks great.   

[javeryh]

OK computer people *cough* Kaytrim *cough* - I went to place my newegg order a few days ago and the motherboard was no longer available so I never pulled the trigger.  Will THIS MOTHERBOARD do the trick?  I am still planning to buy the same RAM and same hard drive.  For a power supply I'm looking at THIS.

There is only one motherboard in stock so I need to place my order fast.  THANKS!!!   

[Kaytrim]

Go ahead and pull the trigger javeryh.  The specs are the same.