New project. Deadline = Christmas!

[Stobe]

Well, the clock is ticking.  And I figured if I wanted to take on this challenge, I would try my best to document it here so everyone can share in my disappointment if I don't get it done in time

My wife actually asked if I could build a mini cabinet for our daughter(s) for Christmas.  I say "daughter(s)" because I have one thats almost 3 and the other that's almost 6, so the older one will benefit more to begin with.

Mini???  I know.  They seem to be the newest fad around here lately.  But truth be told, they are very functional, and fairly cheap to build.  I have most of the parts already that I will be needing (but that won't stop me from buying more, hehe).

I went back and forth between a mini-pac design, and a mini-lucid design.  The mini-pac would possibly be easier to pull off, but I've already got a Pac bartop (ala Bishmasterb), so I decided to go the more modern look.

Before I decided on a final design, I stopped off at the Home Depot and picked up 2 sheets of 3/4" MDF.  I decided at that point that I was going to use 19.5" "shelves" for this project.  I figured if I went with the pac design, I would need close to that for a 2 player setup.  So I had the helpful HD employee rip both sheets at 19.5".  I have a tasble saw at home, but this still saves me so much time.  Plus, this ensures that all my inside widths will be identical.  Here are "shelves" ready to be cut...



After I got the wood home, I knew I had to come up with a final design so I could start cutting.  I re-visited one of my favorite sites, Arcade Paradise.  That guy has one of the best documented sites I've seen.  I've read his writeup on the AP3 so many times, so I grabbed his plans, and started multiplying all his dimensions by 3/4 to see what it would end up like.  I knew what height I wanted the CP and monitor to be at, and they came out pretty close.  And as an added bonus, this shelf widths of 26" turned out to be exactly 19.5" at 3/4 size.  Even though the width wasn't a big deal, it seemed like everything would be perfect with a AP3-mini.

The only thing that didn't look like it would work was the depth.  After some quick measuring, the 17" CRT I had set aside for this project was a little too deep for the 3/4 sized cabinet.  So I'd either have to increase the monitor angle, or deepen the cabinet.  I didn't like the idea of either, so I looked for other options.  I also have a 15" LCD sitting around, so I measured the screen, and it was only like 1/2" difference on the viewable area.  And the depth was obviously well within the depth of the cabinet   I even decided to cut 6" off the depth of the cabinet to decrease the wall profile needed.

Ready to cut now!

With my plans in hand, and my new favorite tool, a $9 drywall T-square, I started drawing the sides on the 1st sheet of MDF.





After admiring my design drawn out, the cutting began.  All long straight cuts were done with trusty circular saw, and the monitor area was done with a jig saw (fenced, of course).



The first side was clamped to the second sheet.  I traced the outline.  Then cut outside the line by about 1/2".  This was so fast, since I could just roughly set up my fence and cut, knowing it would all be the same after routing.



The 2 sides were clamped together, and pattern cut with a router.



When routing the 2nd side, I noticed 2 small areas near the CP shelf and the marquee, that my cuts were a little too long.  I figured this would be easily fixed with some filler, but then I decided to just pattern cut a new side.  It only took a few minutes, and the bonus is that now I have a permanent template, incase I get asked to make one for family/friends.



This ends day 1 (Sunday).

I will try to keep up the documentation.  I really enjoy reading other's write-ups.  Plus, I am counting on you guys for any help here and there.

-Stobe

[Stobe]

Day 2 (Monday).

The next thing I wanted to do was build the base.  I decided to go a little overboard with the base, since I wanted it to be bottom heavy and sturdy.  I boxed 2x4's with some rigid ties found in the deck-building section of HD.  I also used my cabinet builders clamp set (got from Amazon for a super deal when they gave big percentage off tools) to help aquare it all up.



As you can see, the rigid ties have the "lips" on top (where the vertical 2x4's should be) which I will use to attach my sides to the base with.  I will later reinforce this juncture with 1/2 strips probably.

To be sure I got the width of my 2x4's correct, I took a small section of my 19.5" shelving, and put it under the base.  Then I took 2 scrap 3/4" panels and clamped them to the side of the base.  Everything meshed up nicely, so I was happy with that.



Next, I measured and cut my 1x2's for the sides.  I will still need some for the marquee/speaker shelf, and the bezel area, but that part isn't set in ston yet.  I need to see where the monitor is going to sit first.

And thanks to Timoe (as found in another post).  I caught myself on the top strips.  I later cut 45 degree angles on them to avoid any shadowing on the marquee.  Thanks Timoe!



That was it for day 2.  Only had a few hours in the evening to work.

When I get the pictures off the camera for day 3 (last night) I will post them with my progress.

Now is where I cry out for some help.  I'm trying to decide on the color scheme.  I want it to be a princell/Cinderella type theme, but have not decided on colors.  I have all the pink gear from Dream Arcades (joys, buttons, t-molding), but that might be a little too "hot"-pink for this project.  So I'm thinking now more like a light blue for the sides (ala Cinderella's dress) with perhaps White t-molding and buttons, etc.  What do you all think.

Also, when I decide on a color scheme, what do I do with the inside-monitor area (in front of the bezel).  I've always seen that as black.  Is this to cut down on reflection on the screens?  Has anyone else painted that area in a different color than black before?

Also, how about any name ideas?

Thanks for reading,
Stobe

[javeryh]

Awesome start!!  Christmas is going to be cutting it close but I think you can make it.  As for the color scheme, I like the pink but if you are going for a princess look check out and here, here and here for color schemes. 

[leapinlew]

It loooks good. It looks like the speakers will be a tight fit under the marquee area? Also, I really like the braces used on the 2x4's. Nothing wrong with a little insurance there. If Christmas is your deadline, make sure you have:

PCB (Ipac, Keywiz, etc)
Computer parts setup and ready to go
T-molding
Arcade Controls (joystick, buttons, trackball)
Plexi/Smoked Plexi/Glass (this can take some time to arrive)
Coin Door (or make the button half storage for shoes or something)
Artwork created and sent to the printers

These are the things that take some time (as you already know). In my area, it takes a week or two to get plexi and I've had T-molding take 3 weeks to get to my house. Anyone else think of anything I might be forgetting?

One other thing to consider, if you use a LCD TV - you can make the cabinet dual purpose.

[Stobe]

Thanks for the comments so far.

Javeryh:  Thanks a ton for those links.  I've picked up some of those same paint chips at home depot, but seeing them all put together helps out a lit.  I'm leaning towards the "Bipidi boppidi blue" and "clock strikes twelve" from the forst link.

leapinlew:  Don't you worry about parts, lol.  I have tons.  I also have a few more t-molding rolls coming, just in case the color scheme changes (once you pay shipping on the one, you might as well get some more, lol).

Funny you mention the speaker area.  That caught my eye tonight when I was working.  But its not as bad as it looks.  And I'm not opposed to porting the speakers out the top or angled section also if need be.  Or I should have clearence on the face of the monitor bezel.  I could have them on the sides or on top of the monitor.

I've also been on the fence about the LCD TV idea.  Circuit City has a fairly nice 15.1" on sale right now for $179, which has component, composite, s-vid, VGA, and RF inputs.  But this cab is going in the kid's "play room" which already has a 27" TV, so I didn't think there was a necessity.

As for progress:

Tonight I got a late start, but wanted to keep momentum.  So I cut most of the shelves.  I cut a bottom back, top back, angled section, top, and front face.  That leaves the bottom marquee shelf and the back door.  I know I didn't cut the angled section correctly, but it will work.  Instead of angling the top, and top-back to match the angles of the "angled shelf", I simply put 45 degree cuts on both sides of the angled section, and left the othrer 2 shelves at 90 degrees.  It all matches up, and I figured I would fill and sand/round that joint anyhow, so I don't think it will matter.

Now that the tools are put away, I'm going to start drawing up the CP box, so I can start cutting the pieces for that.

Not sure about the front and inside yet.  I have an extra over/under coin door, but it would take just about the whole height of that section.  It might look funny.  I also picked up a pair of these: http://www.happcontrols.com/coindoors/40016800.htm.  I got them brand new for next to nothing on ebay.  They are a great size, and would look good.  But they don't open, so it wouldn't add any access to the inside.  Maybe I'll use one, and just hook the reject buttons to the coin-up input?

Thats all for now.  I'll try to get some more pics up tomorrow.

-Stobe

[theCoder]

Christmas is what, 26 days away.  Thats going to be tight.  If it is cold where you live, you can plan on more than a few days for your paint to dry. 

Regarding the theme, sticky sweet pink appears to be in vogue.  Also, your kids will grow up very fast.  It may be too small for them in 5-10 years.  I would not recommend putting their name on the marquee or in the artwork.  It may make it difficult to sell it later. 

Great progress.

[Timoe]

That looks great Stobe, I love the base already.

[Stobe]

Thanks guys.

TheCoder:  I've pretty much decided that I will probably have my pieces inside when I paint.  My first cab was inside, and it cured a lot faster than the bartop I've been working on in the shed.

I've also kicked around the idea of building another base to put this on top for when they get too tall.  But then again, I'm not real sure teenaged girls would be too upset that their arcade machine was too small.

-Stobe

[leapinlew]

My wife actually asked if I could build a mini cabinet for our daughter

I've decided, all on my own, that either you have an awesome wife or she's trying to keep you busy.

 

[javeryh]

My wife actually asked if I could build a mini cabinet for our daughter

I've decided, all on my own, that either you have an awesome wife or she's trying to keep you busy.

 

That's the truth.  Mine isn't so supportive when it comes to building these things but she does like to play them.

[Stobe]

I'm looking at the CP box design now before I start cutting (hopefully tonight).  I was was wondering if anyone sees anything wrong with the dimensions and mounting of this CP box in relation to the cab skeleton depicted. 

(please excuse my cruddy rendering.  I have about 1 hour invested in learning this modeling program so far).







How does the size look?  The cab width (outside) is 21".  The CP top is 25" to give you some referrence.  The depth of the CP is 8-9 inches (need to double check, lol)

Thanks,
Stobe

[javeryh]

I think 25" is plenty of room for a 2-player CP - especially on a mini cab.  Two kids should be able to easily fit in there. 

[leapinlew]

I think 25" is plenty of room for a 2-player CP - especially on a mini cab.  Two kids should be able to easily fit in there. 

It is plenty. A nintendo wide body is 24.5". Here is my buddies control panel at 24.5"



If you go with less than 6 buttons per player - you could make the whole cab a bit narrower (depending on your monitor of course). It sounds like the cab may be looking a bit wide?

[Stobe]

No.  I think I'm happy with the 19.5" inside width.  And I don't have any real concern on the CP width for getting 2 players in.

I was more wondering about the CP to cabinet junction.  If there was anything wrong with it that I am not seeing.

-Stobe

[Stobe]

I'm back with some much needed catching up.  I've been entertaining relatives for the holidays, so I haven't had as much time tp post updates.  But here they come...

I was ready to start mounting the 1x2's (which I will refer to as cleats), and was getting ready to cut a strip of MDF that was 1.25" wide.  I was going to use that as a straigh offset from the outside of my side boards.  This would allow for 3/4" of MDF panels, and 1/2" inset.  Just before I cut a strip, I noticed the straight-edge I was using to fence my circular saw (my trusty multi-use level) was exactly 1.25" wide on the short end.  So I simply started clamping the level to the sides to offset my cleats.



So a little glue and screws later.....



and thanks again to Timoe for pointing out in another thread about cleats potentially blocking light from the marquee, so I cut angles on the marquee box cleats.



Then it was time to cut out my CP top.  I drew it all out on the wood, then drew in the blade offsets for my circular saw (since I haven't made one of thise nifty sawboards yet).

I know I could sit down and do the geometry to figure out the offset intersection points for the angled sections, but I was afraid I would end up with some decimal fractions that would not be nice, neat multiples of 1/16", so to make sure the angles were identical, I set up one side, and simply measured the x and y offsets, and marked those on the other side.  (I know, a little more information than most of you need, but if it helps one person in when they get to this point in their build, then it is all worth it!).





After letting the glue dry on the cleats, I noticed some was leaking out the edges.  So to be sure my panels would have a nice clean mate, I cleaned up the glue on the outside of the cleats with the method shown in the pic below.  I used a small chissle to scrape both the cleat side, and the board side.  Worked great.



continued.......

[Stobe]

Started painting.  Started with 3 coats of Kilz Latex 2 Primer, then 3 coats of Kilz latex paint.  I've used Kilz on other projects, and was really happy with it (plus, I really like the paint buckets, very clean to use)....(plus they sell it at Walmart, so I can tell my wife I am going to get milk and eggs, and come home with paint and primer ).

I didn't use any flotrol or anything for the latex.  I don't need a mirror shine on this cabinet.  A little texture should be better for little kid's hands anyhow.

CP box panels in blue, (Bipidy Bopidy BLue), and Cab panels in pink





After dry, I clamped and clued the CP box together (using my MLCS super duper clamp).  Later I screwed and glued some 1x2" corner supports in (not shown in pics).  The bottom is not attached to the box.  The top will be permanently attaced, and the bottome will be removable.  The bottom was just used to square up the box while glueing and clamping.



Primed and then painted the insides of the side panels...





I attached the sides to the base, and started mounting some panels.  I had to decide which ones I could mount and still be able to fit inside to work .  I also had a heck of a time getting all three dimensions to square up.   I had the bottom nice and square, but then the sides would torque a little.  After dry-fitting a few panels in, it seemd to work itself out.



The top 3 panels mate with angles.  With time permitting, tomorrow or the next day I plan to sand the joint down a little, add some putty, and re-paint the junction.



Finally, last night, I mounted the J-channel for the front plexi (no pic yet) and cut the foam board for a bezel.  I may eventually replace the whole works with smoked plexi, but my local glass shop was out of it, so they cut me the right size of clear plexi to at least get me something in place to continue fabrication.

To cut the bezel, I used a mat cutter I have for my photography business (ask MarkRVP, being a photographer strangely seems to help out in this hobby, lol).  It was an overkill versus using a straight edge and razor, but heck, I had it so I used it.







I later measured and cut the bezel to fit behind the glass.  I made it long enough to extend upwards past the glass and to the top of the cab.  My idea being, it will block the marquee light from going back into the rest of the cab.  I plan to use some black tape to seal the sizes of the bezel to block all light.

Still to come this week....

Mount monitor (tonight)
Paint and prime the outsides
Build CP top and polulate it.
and mount rest of panels.

-Stobe

[Kaytrim]

Things are finally coming together and only one week left.  Build man Build.  Do you think that you will make it in time?

TTFN 

[Stobe]

Things are finally coming together and only one week left.  Build man Build.  Do you think that you will make it in time?

I don't forsee any problems.  I have the next 3 days off of work, plus the weekend.  Painting will only take a day or two, and I've wired up enough panels to know what I'm doing fairly efficiently.

I've even got a little bling up my sleeve if there is time permitting. 

Thanks for the words of encouragement.

-Stobe

[Kaytrim]

I've even got a little bling up my sleeve if there is time permitting. 

Do you have Fairy Godmother working for you?   

[javeryh]

Awesome Stobe!  Keep on going!   

[Donkey_Kong]

WOW! 

I envy your project but NOT the timeline. Will it be presentable in time? I have faith..

Awesome design and cool project BTW!

[Stobe]

Thanks everyone for the kind words.  The timeline has been easier than I thought.  Of course I've read thousands of Project Announcements before, so the research wasdone already

Update, I slapped together a MaLa layout that fits the theme of the cabinet.  Fairly simple, but I did add a "snap" box to help my daughters select games by screenshot as well as words (now its an educational toy, right!).  My daughter is starting to sound out a lot of words, but this will help.

-Stobe

[Stobe]

And here's the Marquee.  Very simple, but it may eventually be replace anyhow.

We wen't through several name ideas, but this one worked best for us IMO.

-Stobe

[Kaytrim]

  That is one lucky daughter.    Excellent artwork that Stobe.  I bet she can't wait for the completed project. 

[Stobe]

That is one lucky daughter.    Excellent artwork that Stobe.  I bet she can't wait for the completed project. 

Shhhhh....  she doesn't even know it is in progress.  I am pretty proud to have been able to hide it from her this whole time.

-Stobe

[javeryh]

That is one of the coolest marquees I've seen and the name is PERFECT.  Your daughter is going to love this thing.   

[Dudeman]

Awesome frontend and marquee.

I bet the girls will love it.

[Stobe]

Just in case anyone was wondering, the present was finished and "under the tree" in time for Christmas morning.  I will add some more pictures of the final building process later, after I rumage through my digital pics, but here are a few "finished product" pics.

I still have a few mods I want to do.  I need to add a Shazam button and maybe a credit button, just to make things easier.  I wanted to keep the CP as clean as possible, so I'll probably add those buttons to the front panel.  I also have a USB feedthrough I am going to add in the same area, so I can plug in gamepads, etc to the front.

I'm also going to mount a volume control somewhere.  It just fell low priority towards the end.

Enjoy the pics.

And with this, I want to take a moment to send a "Shout Out" to everyone who helped.

MarkRVP: for making Ryan's mini Pacman, and convincing my wife that my idea of a mini cabinet might actually look decent.

Javeryh and Kaytrim: for following my project thread, and keep me motivated.  I've been reading your threads also, so feel as if we were pushing each other along, whether we knew it or not.

Pixelhugger: for some expert help with the CP artwork.  It really makes this thing stand out.

RandyT: for getting some last minute parts very quickly.  I had most everything needed before I began, but decided at the last minute to use some Electric Ice buttons and LEDs.  RandyT got everything out the next day, and it arrived very quickly.  Thanks!

Sasquatch! (Last Active:  July 23, 2006, 11:20:55 PM, lol) for having one of the best project websites I've seen.  Very detailed, and all the plans are there in multiple formats (cad, jpg, etc).  He also takes it a step further by documenting some of the reasons he did certain things certain ways.  It gives some insight on why he decided on certain design elements.

Saint: duh!  Most of our "how we found BYOAC" stories are similar.  But they all depended on Saint for having this site in the first place.

And of course, everyone else here at BYOAC.  I've learned so much from reading everyone's posts.  And I haven't found hardly any questions that couldn't be answered.  My hat's off to all of you!

-Stobe

[steveh]

Wow that looks great.  I bet your Daughter enjoyed that present.

[Organic Jerk]

That's so awesome, man...

The well thought and poignant artwork is perfect for a young child, and the familiar characters draw attention like nobody's business...

And I'm a fan of the clean and concise layout...


Not to mention all the WIP pics make me anxious to get working on the sides of my own cab... damn delays...

It'll definitely be a Christmas present she'll remember for ages to come..

Although it's gonna be hard to top next year, no?

[Timoe]

Great Work Stobe!  I'd love to RIP into a game of street fighter on that machine 

[Donkey_Kong]

Awesome Stobe...Awesome! The CP is MINT!

Congrats on getting it done in time!

[javeryh]

Congrats Stobe!!!  It came out awesome - the lighted buttons are an awesome touch!  I'm sure your daughter had the best Christmas ever.

Side note - what type of ball-tops are those?  They look all glittery and super girly!

[Stobe]

Side note - what type of ball-tops are those?  They look all glittery and super girly!

The sticks are from Dream Arcades.  I bought a couple of the hot pink sticks that match their buttons and t-molding.  But the ball tops I think are from some of Ponyboy's translucent balltops.  I think he calls them the "Rollie" joysticks now.  They have a nice wiring harness for the microswitches.  But the shaft was a little shorter and the throw was a little tighter on them, so I unscrewed the balltops and put them on the DA sticks.  The DA sticks are real loose (a little too loose for my taste), but good for little hands.  Easy to move, etc.  Plus, the shafts were just long enough that I didn't have to route under the CP.  By Mike's advice (from DA), I just sunk 6 #6 5/8" wood screws from the bottom. 

-Stobe

[theCoder]

Congratulations on making your deadline.  You must be proud.  How did you keep it a secret, especially when "pink" stuff started showing up?  Great job!

[arcadefever]

  that  cab look great ... good work 

[Kaytrim]

Javeryh and Kaytrim: for following my project thread, and keep me motivated.  I've been reading your threads also, so feel as if we were pushing each other along, whether we knew it or not.

Thanks for the kind words Stobe.  I'll be looking forward to your comments when I get started on the final cab version sometime next year.  The end result of your cab looks great.  I'm thinking about doing the same with the buttons that you did.  How many LED Wiz controllers did you use?  Did you use single LED colors or did you go with the RGB LEDs?

[Stobe]

I went the cheap route with LEDs.  I just ordered some superwhite and blue LEDs from Randy, and pressed them into the EI buttons.  I didn't use a controller, since I didn't see the need for too many colors, or blinking, etc.  So I just wired them up to 5V (using the correct resistors).

Since I couldn't find a definative answer about how many LEDs (at 20mW each, I think) I could get from the PS2 port's 5V line, I simply used a 5V DC power supply I had in my box of DC power bricks. (never throw away anything, right?).

-Stobe

[javeryh]

Side note - what type of ball-tops are those?  They look all glittery and super girly!

The sticks are from Dream Arcades.  I bought a couple of the hot pink sticks that match their buttons and t-molding.  But the ball tops I think are from some of Ponyboy's translucent balltops.  I think he calls them the "Rollie" joysticks now.  They have a nice wiring harness for the microswitches.  But the shaft was a little shorter and the throw was a little tighter on them, so I unscrewed the balltops and put them on the DA sticks.  The DA sticks are real loose (a little too loose for my taste), but good for little hands.  Easy to move, etc.  Plus, the shafts were just long enough that I didn't have to route under the CP.  By Mike's advice (from DA), I just sunk 6 #6 5/8" wood screws from the bottom. 

-Stobe

Thanks - any chance you could take a close-up of just the pink balltop?  I got the pink one from DA and am planning on using it with the Ultimarc 360 but I think I might like the translucent/glitter ones you used more... hmm... 

[Stobe]

Sure, when I get home I'll try to remember to take a close up.  Its mostly translucent, with some bubbles in it.  I don't see them listed on Ponyboy's thread anymore, but you may want to PM him.  If I remember right, he first offered purple and pink.  Then more colors came.

Here's a link to a recent review at Retroblast from Mamemaster.  The ball tops I used are the same as in his first picture:

http://www.retroblast.com/reviews/RollieJoystick-11232006-01.html

-Stobe