Glue versus Woodscrews - which should I use?

[Crax]

Now place the new template under your correct size sheet and clamp in place. This is because the best way to cut it out is to use a router with a flush cut bit and you will get an exact copy on both sides. You could take the template to your local cabinet maker and get him to flush cut it. Probably wouldnt cost that much because its only a 5 minute job. If you dont have a router, then place the template on top and trace it out and then cut. Do the same with the other side and when you have them both cut out compare the 2 and tidy up so they match.

If you make another video(enjoyed your last one), I would like to see you do this.  I think I understand what you are saying, but would like to see it being done.

[spacies]

There were a few pics floating around here but I cant find them.

Take a look here: http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/infin8pcbitsetrvu.htm

Look at the Flush Trim bit and you see the bearing which is used as the guide on you template. Under that is the cutting peice. In that pic the cutting has been done.

Remember that all that is upside down if you were using a handheld router.


Google image "flush trim router" and you will get some results

[melarky]

I don't know much about air nailers, would something like this be sufficient:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40115

Does it have to be a certain kind?  Would I just get the 1 1/4" nails and shoot them through 1x1 blocks into the mdf of the cabinet (with glue in between).  I am just finishing a cab, and I would definately say the putty and sanding was one of the worst parts...

[spacies]

I don't know much about air nailers, would something like this be sufficient:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40115

Does it have to be a certain kind?  Would I just get the 1 1/4" nails and shoot them through 1x1 blocks into the mdf of the cabinet (with glue in between).  I am just finishing a cab, and I would definately say the putty and sanding was one of the worst parts...

That looks fine.
18 gauge is a very small nail so will only leave a tiny hole to fill if you need to shoot from the front.
If you can find one that shoots longer staples, then buy that. But for starters that gun will do the job.
You want to go in as far as you can so try 1  1/2" nails. If they go in to far, you can turn down the air from the compressor and it wont fire through the 1x1 so much. But you should be fine with 1 1/2" nails/staples.

Sanding sucks! MDF and screws suck! Dont forget to buy lots of glue and apply to EVERY face and edge that touches another surface. NO exceptions. I will build another cabinet soon so I will post some tips of the assembly next time.

Good luck!

[johnm160]

I just bought this one and it works great.....

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40116

[spacies]

Nice John,

They only make a tiny hole so filling, if required, is a breeze 

[BackAgain]

Nope, OSB which is even worse.  My cab is plywood, though.

And Chad is right, I wear squarepants. 

[monzamess]

Look at the Flush Trim bit and you see the bearing which is used as the guide on you template. Under that is the cutting peice. In that pic the cutting has been done.

Remember that all that is upside down if you were using a handheld router.

Hey, it looks like a "Pattern Bit" would work better in a handheld router since the bearing is closer to the body of the router. I envision making the pattern, laying it on top of the work, then using the router from the top. Is it better to have the pattern on the bottom and still use the "flush triim bit" with a handheld router?

Please understand this is coming from a complete novice who's only done a couple of horrid projects wit ha router!

[danph1]

Thanks for the tips everyone.

[RTSDaddy2]

Nothing I can add here that hasn't been said, EXCEPT that I'll second NightGod...I'd rather have it TOO well built as not enough.  Just remember, you've put (if you're like most) close to $1000 in this plus countless hours of love!  Too much invested, in other words, to worry about it falling apart after the fact!

[NiteWalker]

Just remember, you've put (if you're like most) close to $1000 in this plus countless hours of love!  Too much invested, in other words, to worry about it falling apart after the fact!

Amen to that. 

Better go back and reinforce the cabinet with angle iron...

[spacies]

Nothing I can add here that hasn't been said, EXCEPT that I'll second NightGod...I'd rather have it TOO well built as not enough.  Just remember, you've put (if you're like most) close to $1000 in this plus countless hours of love!  Too much invested, in other words, to worry about it falling apart after the fact!

Thats true but building cabinets with a air stapler and glue has been done since day one. There are plenty of original cabs around still standing tall.

If you do this properly you won't have a problem.
If you want to add screws as well, you can still do it from the inside so your outside is still hole free!

[johnm160]

Nothing I can add here that hasn't been said, EXCEPT that I'll second NightGod...I'd rather have it TOO well built as not enough.  Just remember, you've put (if you're like most) close to $1000 in this plus countless hours of love!  Too much invested, in other words, to worry about it falling apart after the fact!

Thats true but building cabinets with a air stapler and glue has been done since day one. There are plenty of original cabs around still standing tall.

If you do this properly you won't have a problem.
If you want to add screws as well, you can still do it from the inside so your outside is still hole free!

How much glue do you typically use in a build? I know I use way too much, I could go over budged just on shop towels to clean up the excess.

I will have a complete 16 oz bottle gone by the time my tempest is done.

[NiteWalker]

No such thing as too much, but basically what you want to see when you apply clamping pressure is a nice even bead along the glue line. With MDF be generous, because the MDF is very porous and will soak up a lot, especially on the edges.

[prOk]

And don't forget anytime you bond mdf edge to surface to scuff the surface..   otherwise you really won't get a great bond.   Also, those that suggest screws/staples are right on.  glues behave best with good even pressure, because you can't really clamp it screws or other fasteners take that job instead.

[johnm160]

No such thing as too much, but basically what you want to see when you apply clamping pressure is a nice even bead along the glue line. With MDF be generous, because the MDF is very porous and will soak up a lot, especially on the edges.

Oh there is a nice even bead alright, could glue on the next piece with what I wipe off. But I am always afraid of not using enough. I remember seeing glue bottles with roller applicators on them years ago that solves the over use problem. I don't know if they are still around.

Pr0k.

Nice tip on the MDF, I would not have thought of that.