Refurbishing a 23' suffleboard table - Finished w/Pics!!!

[dpz147]

Well...you gotta love craigslist!!  I found this shuffleboard table for $100 including the pucks and about a dozen cans of sun-glo powder.  You can't beat that deal!  It needs to be resurfaced and although the frame is functional, I'm going to sand and stain or paint it.

I need some help and opinions:


Here's my dilemma...the longest wall in my basement is 27.5', so there would only be 1' on each side of the table, unless I cut it.  Most of my friends have said they would rather the length and put up with the tight space than cut it.  Any thoughts/opinions?

Has anyone ever refinished a table?  I read the thread a while back about the DIY table that someone built, but other than that I haven't been able to find much on the net.  Any tips/tricks?

[theCoder]

I'm no expert on shuffleboard, but I don't think I'd enjoy spending more than about 2 minutes crammed in a 1' space.  I'd shorten it.  You only paid $100 for it.  It's not likely that you've got your hands on a $5,000 priceless relic.  Die hard shuffleboard players would probably gasp at the idea, but how many of your friends will really notice if it is a foot or two short?  Good luck on the project.

[johnperkins21]

You must have some thin friends who would rather be crammed into a 1' space than to have the table a foot or two short. From the small of my back to my belly button is about a foot. Definitely not enough room. I say chop it up and enjoy playing it. I'd rather it be fun than official.

[dpz147]

I think their rational behind it is that you are only behind the table briefly while you're shooting and it's really only your legs that need to squeeze in that space, and you usually hug the table when you shoot anyway.

But I agree with you guys and have been leaning toward cutting it anyway.

A little more about the table...  It came from a Firehouse.  The last guys that tried to refinish the surface didn't do it right, so it ended up convex on the one side which caused the pucks to go off the side edges.  No one there wanted to take the time to repair it so they decided to get rid of it.  After I finished my cab, I was thinking about building a table and when I saw this, I figured it would be a lot easier and cheaper to refinish this than to build one.  Plus, a set of pucks cost around $125, so just those alone make up for the money spent.

My plan is to rent the same kind of sander that is used to refinish floors to sand off the top, and then re-apply the polyurethane.

[CheffoJeffo]

My plan is to rent the same kind of sander that is used to refinish floors to sand off the top, and then re-apply the polyurethane.

Some caution may be in order here -- you can rent a belt-style sander, which works fast (and is what the guys who do my floors use), but improperly used (e.g. pausing while the sander is running) can result in gouges. Or you can rent an orbital-style sander (like a really big palm sander) that works more slowly but presents much less risk of gouging (which is what was recommended to me way back when I wanted to refinish them myself).

Cheers.

[dpz147]

My plan is to rent the same kind of sander that is used to refinish floors to sand off the top, and then re-apply the polyurethane.

Some caution may be in order here -- you can rent a belt-style sander, which works fast (and is what the guys who do my floors use), but improperly used (e.g. pausing while the sander is running) can result in gouges. Or you can rent an orbital-style sander (like a really big palm sander) that works more slowly but presents much less risk of gouging (which is what was recommended to me way back when I wanted to refinish them myself).

Cheers.

Thanks for the suggestion.  The orbital sander sounds like a much better option.

[theCoder]

CheffoJeffo brings up an excellent point.  Those floor sanders really take the wood off fast, and they also do make it flat.  Much less risk of hi & low spots than with anything you hold in your hand.  I'd track down a local hardwood floor re-finisher and give him a call.  The conversation will cost you nothing.

[CheffoJeffo]

CheffoJeffo brings up an excellent point.  Those floor sanders really take the wood off fast, and they also do make it flat.  Much less risk of hi & low spots than with anything you hold in your hand.  I'd track down a local hardwood floor re-finisher and give him a call.  The conversation will cost you nothing.

To be clearer than I was  my initial post -- I am talking about floor sanders in both cases -- the belt-style used by pros and the orbital-style recommended for rookies. The only problem with the belt-style is if you pause while sanding (say to answer a question or wipe your brow), it'll tear a groove in the material (e.g. not flat), where that won't happen with an orbital sander.

Both are available for rental at my local Home Depot, but YMMV.

Definitely don't go hand-held.


Cheers

[vrf]

Pardon my ignorance, but doesn't an orbital sander tear up the grain of the wood? (The sanding direction isn't in line with the grain.)

[crsdawg]

if you are not practiced with a belt sander you will gouge your project, even if your good with one you will still probably gouge the project(one that big at least). be careful. even with an orbital sander your going to most likely end up with an uneven surface(sanded more in some areas than others) wich might effect play.

personally i'd look into a chemical stripper of some sort. my main concern with this route would be that with such a large area to strip, it might make the fumes unbearable and unhealthy. a very good mask would be a must. once that's finished and most of the original finish is off then you can give it a light block sand and then be done with it.

as for cutting it, i'm going to be in the minority and say keep it as is. i'd sit it a little caddy corner  to give some more room for shooters and then build a triangular table to fill in the space now created between the table and wall(put a tv on it or something). i hate hacking up stuff like that, and it may have only cost a $100, but that doesn't mean it's worth $100(well after you cut it maybe). try replacing it, those things aren't cheap.

oh yeah, congrats on the good deal/steal.  i'd love to have one of those, although there's no way i could have it in my place(space issues).

[CheffoJeffo]

The orbital sander that I am thinking of is wider than a shuffleboard, so the side-to-side evenness would be OK . So long as you keep it moving, I wouldn't expect any big problems end-to-end. Now, it IS big and heavy and you would need to take the legs off, put the table on the ground and have a helper.

My guess is that this is the best way to refinish it, given that someone has already fouled up the level (otherwise, I might be inclined to agree with crsdawg and limit the stripping to chemical).

OTOH, you might want to call a floor refinisher and see if they would sand it down for you ... it might take them about 30 minutes and be an easy job for them. Anybody in your neighbourhood having their floor redone ?

Cheers.

[CheffoJeffo]

Pardon my ignorance, but doesn't an orbital sander tear up the grain of the wood? (The sanding direction isn't in line with the grain.)

Yes, but once you take the grit level up on successive passes, then stain (which is going to raise the grain and requires hand sanding anyway) and urethane, it isn't going to be an issue.

Or at least that is the way it has always worked for me.

Cheers.

[dpz147]

The orbital sander that I am thinking of is wider than a shuffleboard, so the side-to-side evenness would be OK . So long as you keep it moving, I wouldn't expect any big problems end-to-end. Now, it IS big and heavy and you would need to take the legs off, put the table on the ground and have a helper.

It is actually already on the ground.  Because I'm going to refinish the frame, I put the playing surface on my basement floor.  It was quite a scene getting that down there too.  We had to lower it through the basement window.

[CheffoJeffo]

It was quite a scene getting that down there too.  We had to lower it through the basement window.

I was looking at getting a 16' board at one point and couldn't figure out how I was going to get that downstairs .. 7 additional feet ... wow !

Cheers.

[leapinlew]

I think the solution is to cut it in half -

two 11.5' boards - Shuffleboard tournaments

Or perhaps you can make it into a giant square - invite 3 friends over, you can each build a fort in each corner and you can play Manual Warlords...

Or, more likely, you can ignore all my suggestions!

[reptilehead]

When you re-apply the poly, the good thing is that it can be built up, if for some reason, the table isnt level after sanding, you can put up guide barriers made out of waxed posterboard taped TIGHTLY to the sides. the poly can then fill in any low areas making it perfectly level (remember those little cubes of plastic with the scorpions in it?) Those are a slightly different type of poly.I ended up re-finishing a chest and dresser, and I wanted a really deep poly covering to protect the wood and fill in a few deep gouges that I was afraid to sand out. It worked like a charm, and it has an amazing deep luster and it's nice and flat. Hopefully that will help a bit on your playability factor.
 As far as cutting it up, you wouldn't hack apart a tron or a pacman for a mame project would you? That shuffleboard table, depending on the age, is just as much a peice of game history, and one the old timers would remember more fondly than us younger ones.
 What I'd love to get if i had the room, is one of the old bowling tables, with the pins that flipped up when you slid the puck underneath it. That was the first game I ever played, and still is my favorite. When I see one of those in a bar (usually an old bar thats been around with the same owners for the last 50 years) I can't resist throwing a few bucks in it and asking the owners if they ever want to get rid of it....

[IG-88]

Don't cut it. Part of the challenge is distance accuracy, and length plays a major role in that. Not to mention the extra work involved. Besides, are you going to be in the place you are now forever?
And something else you might consider if you want to sand it yourself. Not only pausing causes problems with gouges but so will a slight "tilt" or "lean" from side to side. That will screw things up real quick. I've done the belt sander on the floor of a deck and it was no picnic. Have a pro do it.

[dpz147]

When you re-apply the poly, the good thing is that it can be built up, if for some reason, the table isnt level after sanding, you can put up guide barriers made out of waxed posterboard taped TIGHTLY to the sides. the poly can then fill in any low areas making it perfectly level (remember those little cubes of plastic with the scorpions in it?) Those are a slightly different type of poly.I ended up re-finishing a chest and dresser, and I wanted a really deep poly covering to protect the wood and fill in a few deep gouges that I was afraid to sand out. It worked like a charm, and it has an amazing deep luster and it's nice and flat. Hopefully that will help a bit on your playability factor.

That's what the previous owner did and I was thinking of doing the same.  The original owner must have done something wrong because the poly eventually buckled and split on one end.  Any idea what would have caused that? I'll try to post pics of it so you can see what I mean.

As far as cutting it up, you wouldn't hack apart a tron or a pacman for a mame project would you? That shuffleboard table, depending on the age, is just as much a peice of game history, and one the old timers would remember more fondly than us younger ones.

I feel the same way, which is why I'm having a hard time making up my mind.  I just can't imagine only having a foot on each side though.  I can put it caddy corner but it will cut off a good bit of my basement because it's so long.  Apparently, there are lines drawn on the board showing were to cut it in case it ever needs to be shortened.  I wish I could expand my basement a couple feet. 

[dpz147]

Don't cut it. Part of the challenge is distance accuracy, and length plays a major role in that. Not to mention the extra work involved. Besides, are you going to be in the place you are now forever?

Actually...yes.  We bought this house 2 years ago with the intention of never needing to move again.  Plus, even if we ever do, I can't imagine trying to get this thing out.

[theCoder]

You're not going to move, you can't imagine ever trying to get it out of your basement, and putting it caddy corner will cut off a good bit of your basement.  I know which way I'd go.

[IG-88]

I thought you were in an apt. for some reason.....Knock a wall out. 

[reptilehead]

That's what the previous owner did and I was thinking of doing the same.  The original owner must have done something wrong because the poly eventually buckled and split on one end.  Any idea what would have caused that? I'll try to post pics of it so you can see what I mean.


I feel the same way, which is why I'm having a hard time making up my mind.  I just can't imagine only having a foot on each side though.  I can put it caddy corner but it will cut off a good bit of my basement because it's so long.  Apparently, there are lines drawn on the board showing were to cut it in case it ever needs to be shortened.  I wish I could expand my basement a couple feet. 

Like anything that cures, heat is the biggest kiler, but it probably more than likely is one of two options, either it was applied thick in one coat (if the cracking is everywhere and smaller) or left in hot or wet areas (if the cracking is deep and fresh). Going to a commercial polymer producer with some pics of the board and an accurate description of what you need to do will get you amazing results, they will be able to tell you the BEST poly to place on the wood, how to long to cure it between coats (if any with the "correct" poly)
 We're not talking the residential one step buy it in a gallon poly here, we're talking about a 2 stage polymer  with an acclerant, similar to a fiberglass compound as to how its mixed. (1 gallon to .5oz)
 The pros know, try looking in the good book of knowledge (phone book) for "industrial flooring" "polymer flooring" or "non-skid floor coatings" (all this is is the same thing as the other two with sand added after its batched). Oh and as a side benifit, it also can be colored, so if ya happen to want a colored tinge to the wood or a solid color top it can be done too.
 I'm still against cutting the table, one end out slightly askew would be more than enough to make it comfy playable, perhaps a re-orginization of the game room is in order... perhaps a game cab on one side of the board twords the wall, so the shuffleboard sits out at a slight angle and fill it in with a bookshelf stereo or game memorabilia? Better yet....  showcase it, don't stuff it! make it the center of the room and work everything else around it... heck depending on W.A.F. or if you PLAN on getting divorced, maybe the living room or dining room has more space?
  I'm not in your position, so I can't really tell how cramped you are, but I can say that I would have no straight wall in my house to put a 23' table, without blocking a door, a few windows, and a fireplace, or a door a few windows and loose the dining room table,  but if I was lucky enough to score that table (or my bowling board) I can tell you I'd be blocking a door and eating on the couch. (more than likely sleeping in the yard too)
But hey! who needs floor to ceiling 5' wide windows on every wall and 4 sets of french doors to the outside world? And sleeping on a cot in the yard is kinda like camping!

[dpz147]

Thanks for all the great info and suggestions reptilehead!  One thing I have definitely decided about this project is that I'm going to take my time with it and do it right.  When I first saw this table, my initial thought was "I can't wait to get this in my basement and play it".  After getting it home, I realized and appreciated what a gem I had found.  I decided that I'm going to dismantle the entire frame, sand it (which I've already started), stain it, and re-upholster the inside of it.  I'm going to add some hardware to give the legs some more support too.  As soon as I can get a friend to help me (and clean my basement a bit), I'm going to get a tape measure and simulate the length of the table to see exactly what my options are and what angles would be needed to keep the thing in tact.  I'm going to do everything I can to keep it in one piece without requiring people to lose weight before they can fit behind it to play.

So...I've accepted the fact that it may be a couple months before I throw that first puck, but in the long run, I think it will be worth it.

If anyone knows anything about upholstering or knows of a good "how to", I could use the help.

[dpz147]

If anyone knows anything about upholstering or knows of a good "how to", I could use the help.

Actually...after thinking about it, I'll probably just line it with carpet similar to David's DIY table http://www.davesspot.com/shuffleboard.htm   but with less shag, to make it easier clean up the wax powder.

[dpz147]

I contacted 4 professional floor refinishers.  I heard back from 2 out of the 4.  Both strongly recommended chemical strippers over sanding, fearing that any kind of sanding could damage it.

One of them also recommended shellac followed by car wax.  I'm assuming this is different from polyurethane, but would there be any pros or cons of doing it that way?

Any thoughts???

[mpm32]

Don't sand it, you'll never get a flat surface.  I know it was a pain in the ass to get it in the basement but take it to a lumber yard that has a surface planer.  Not a home depot or lowe's but a lumber yard that still cuts custom millwork.  Probably won't cost you that much and you'll start your resoration off right and it will be much quicker.

Call around to lumber yards in your area.  Not sure if they'll make you take the finish off or not.  Not sure what the old finish would do to their planer knives.

[dpz147]

What I'd love to get if i had the room, is one of the old bowling tables, with the pins that flipped up when you slid the puck underneath it. That was the first game I ever played, and still is my favorite. When I see one of those in a bar (usually an old bar thats been around with the same owners for the last 50 years) I can't resist throwing a few bucks in it and asking the owners if they ever want to get rid of it....

Here you go:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Strike-Master-Bowling-Arcade-Bar-Game-Shuffleboard_W0QQitemZ8289030868QQihZ020QQcategoryZ62053QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Only 30 min left though...

[dfc106]

I contacted 4 professional floor refinishers.  I heard back from 2 out of the 4.  Both strongly recommended chemical strippers over sanding, fearing that any kind of sanding could damage it.

One of them also recommended shellac followed by car wax.  I'm assuming this is different from polyurethane, but would there be any pros or cons of doing it that way?

Any thoughts???

Shellac isn't a good choice for something that needs a durable finish.  People use it because it dries fast and its a natural product that has a natural look.  Not what you need in a shuffleboard table.  Modern shuffleboard tables are coated with Poly.  I do like the idea of car wax.  I used a natural wax, and aside from being hard to apply and buff. I doubt it protects as well as a modern synthetic wax.  Next time I wax my surface I'll use car wax. 

I also second the idea of getting the surface planed at a place that does millwork.  You mentioned that the board is slightly convex.  Planing is probably the only real solution to that problem.

There isn't much information on shuffleboard surfaces on the web, but here is one thing I did find in my searches.  Not terribly usefull, but maybe some inspiration if nothing else.
http://www.zieglerworld.com/Shuffleboard%20Refinishing%20Tips.htm

[dpz147]

I also second the idea of getting the surface planed at a place that does millwork.  You mentioned that the board is slightly convex.  Planing is probably the only real solution to that problem.

The only part that is slightly convex is the thick coating of poly.  The wood itself looks ok, so if I can get the poly off, it should resolve the convex problem.

There isn't much information on shuffleboard surfaces on the web, but here is one thing I did find in my searches.  Not terribly usefull, but maybe some inspiration if nothing else.
http://www.zieglerworld.com/Shuffleboard%20Refinishing%20Tips.htm

I actually did find this site already...and I agree, not to much actual information, but nice to see that people have successfully refinished these things themself.  It's hard to believe the lack of information in the vast world of cyberspace, concerning this issue.

Another floor finisher weighed in with his opinion.  He still recommended a chemical stripper, but for finishing suggested a sanding sealer, followed by several coatings of wax.  His thinking is that it would be easier to maintain because if it scuffs up you just buff it.

What do you think?

[dpz147]

Also...I've seen sanding sealer, but what is it?

[dfc106]

Also...I've seen sanding sealer, but what is it?

AFAIK sanding sealer is only used on porous woods like oak or mohagany to fill the poors before finishing.  Or it's used before staining to give a more consistent stain.  No reason I know of to use it on maple. 

If its only the poly that is convex, then chemical stripper will take care of that.  It will probably take 3 or 4 coats of the stuff.  Are you sure its poly though?  Sound like it may have been a pour on lacquer that didn't level properly.  That stuff goes on really thick.  I don't know how well a chemical stripper will take it off.  I mean it probably will still work, but might need lots of coats.  Also those strippers are really really nasty.  Make sure you follow all the directions and most importantly DO IT OUTSIDE.

[dpz147]

If its only the poly that is convex, then chemical stripper will take care of that.  It will probably take 3 or 4 coats of the stuff.  Are you sure its poly though?  Sound like it may have been a pour on lacquer that didn't level properly.  That stuff goes on really thick.  I don't know how well a chemical stripper will take it off.  I mean it probably will still work, but might need lots of coats.  Also those strippers are really really nasty.  Make sure you follow all the directions and most importantly DO IT OUTSIDE.

The previous owner mentioned poly but he may have not have known for sure.  Is there any way to tell the difference between poly and lacquer?

Doing this outside isn't really an option.  It took 6 pretty big guys to lower it through my basement window...and that's when we had gravity working with us.  I have 4 basement windows.  I was planning on putting fans in them. 2 pumping air in and 2 pumping air out.

[reptilehead]

Here you go:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Strike-Master-Bowling-Arcade-Bar-Game-Shuffleboard_W0QQitemZ8289030868QQihZ020QQcategoryZ62053QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Only 30 min left though...

Awww man... day late dollar short... I JUST saw this bidding had ended... went (reasonably) cheap, and it woulda made a nice little weekend trip going to TX. There's one of those in the roller rink where my son goes occasionally, I'm going to ask them if they'll part with it. The owners told me once that only the adults play it, and since many adults don't rollerskate, I might be in luck....
 The ones I remember though, from way back when (late 70's) weren't digital at all and had rolling numbers like an odometer... eh well someday.
 When you chemstrip this thing indoors, definately use ventilation, as well as a good quality resperator, go into an industrial supply store, tell them what you plan, and have them fit it for you. have them show you how to properly care for it, and maintain it. This resperator is the only thing that will save you from caustic chemicals entering your lungs, make sure its a good one. ALSO make sure that you have someone (outside in fresh air) monitoring you at regular intervals without entering your workspace (confined space work permits--- read up on them and follow their guidelines) They are the only ones keeping you alive if the potential worst would happen (collapse from lack of oxygen).
 Yeah I know, you PROBABLY won't follow confined space permits, but this is potentially life threatening in an enclosed area. Whatever you do... no smoking and go outside every hour (or less) or if you begin to feel tired.


 This has been a public service announcement from an OSHA trained confined space entry person who has worked with hazmat and those wonderful chemical strippers and has killed off many brain cells painting with laquer indoors without a resperator.
 

[dpz147]

When you chemstrip this thing indoors, definately use ventilation, as well as a good quality resperator, go into an industrial supply store, tell them what you plan, and have them fit it for you. have them show you how to properly care for it, and maintain it. This resperator is the only thing that will save you from caustic chemicals entering your lungs, make sure its a good one. ALSO make sure that you have someone (outside in fresh air) monitoring you at regular intervals without entering your workspace (confined space work permits--- read up on them and follow their guidelines) They are the only ones keeping you alive if the potential worst would happen (collapse from lack of oxygen).
 Yeah I know, you PROBABLY won't follow confined space permits, but this is potentially life threatening in an enclosed area. Whatever you do... no smoking and go outside every hour (or less) or if you begin to feel tired.


 This has been a public service announcement from an OSHA trained confined space entry person who has worked with hazmat and those wonderful chemical strippers and has killed off many brain cells painting with laquer indoors without a resperator.
 

Thanks for all the great advise...but after reading it, sanding it is sounding much more appealing. 

[dfc106]

Thanks for all the great advise...but after reading it, sanding it is sounding much more appealing. 

I think with respirator and good airflow you're fine.  Make sure if you have a central air unit in the basement that it won't be running, and the door upstairs is sealed reasonable well. 

I think sanding is a mistake.  You'll never get it even again once you start taking off material with a sander.

[reptilehead]

I agree, it's not that hard to buy a good resperator, they're around 45 bucks, and with the ventilation (fans in an out) it will be more than sufficent. You'll get a better finish product by stripping it. The biggest issue I've seen over and over again is that people buy the wrong type of resperator or filters, or they get the "cheapest one" that usually doesnt fit right. A proper seal is vital for the well being of the wearer, and usually the "cheapest" ones aren't fitted correctly.
 A good resperator is one of the "Must haves" in a tool kit if you paint, refinish, sand, work with powders ect. This is something (proper use of resperators) that really should be taught in "shop class" back in middle school when you start staining and sealing that ugly clock that you made that doesn't sit quite level. However they just threw a mask at you (usually with either clogged or improper filters) and told you to put it on but didn't bother to say why or how.
 And guess what? That sanding you're planning on doing is going to require a mask too (not just those useless paper masks that do nothing) plus the staining and sealing as well. 
Better, faster and easier to strip, go with the chemstrip. Grab your resperator and have at! And in the end.... MORE PIX!
 

[dpz147]

OK...here's the situation.  I tried everyway possible to not cut this table, but unless I cut my basement in half diagonally (which with 5 kids isn't really an option), I am starting to face the sad reality that the table needs to be cut. 

So here is the next question... since I need to cut it anyway, how far should I cut it?  Right now it (just the playing surface) is 23'8".  I can get away with cutting it (the playing surface) down to 22'.  This would give me 2' on each side between the table and the wall. Now, from what I've read, a regulation 22' table has a playing surface of 20'8" plus 8" of "drop off zone" on each side which equals the 22'.  So...do I cut just the bare minimum to keep some of the original length or go down to regulation size?

Thoughts?

[theCoder]

2 feet on each side should be good or at least better.  I wonder if the 8" drop zone is really that critical.  Every inch you cut from the drop zone is another inch at your thighs.  What if you went with only 5" drop zones?  I think it all boils down to your desire to keep it competely "regulation" and the likelihood that you will sell it to a "got to be regulation" kind of buyer vs. the playabity of the thing down in your basement.  I'm pretty sure my kids and party guests would never know or care about a 5% delta from the official length.  Just my 2 cents.

[JamIt]

OK...here's the situation.  I tried everyway possible to not cut this table, but unless I cut my basement in half diagonally (which with 5 kids isn't really an option), I am starting to face the sad reality that the table needs to be cut. 

Thoughts?

I'm not a carpenter or mechanical engineer, nor do I play much shuffleboard (yet), but couldn't you mod the table a tad to make it "movable"?  My initial thought was casters, but that table probably weighs a bunch.  So maybe some type of "rollers" attached to the wall that will allow you to "slide" the table a foot each way?
Just a thought (hope its not too stupid)
--JamIt

[dpz147]

I'm not a carpenter or mechanical engineer, nor do I play much shuffleboard (yet), but couldn't you mod the table a tad to make it "movable"?  My initial thought was casters, but that table probably weighs a bunch.  So maybe some type of "rollers" attached to the wall that will allow you to "slide" the table a foot each way?
Just a thought (hope its not too stupid)
--JamIt

I never thought about that, but I think it would be difficult for a few reasons.  First, I believe it is over 800 pounds, so it would be difficult to move on anything.  Also, the feet of it are leveling bolts and the levelness of it is the most important part.  I think it would be difficult to ensure it's level if it was on anything other than it's feet.