Donkey Kong Replica: Scratch build using Gaetan's plans - 95% done

[vwalbridge]

A quick question: What's the distance from the CPO to the bottom of the joystick balltop?

That's a strange measurement request but here it is:

13.82 mm

[johnrt]

A quick question: What's the distance from the CPO to the bottom of the joystick balltop?

That's a strange measurement request but here it is:

13.82 mm

Just to clarify. X=13.8mm?

[vwalbridge]

A quick question: What's the distance from the CPO to the bottom of the joystick balltop?

That's a strange measurement request but here it is:

13.82 mm

Just to clarify. X=13.8mm?

Correct. I just double checked to be sure.

[johnrt]

Correct. I just double checked to be sure.

Thanks! 

[SlammedNiss]

A quick question: What's the distance from the CPO to the bottom of the joystick balltop?

That's a strange measurement request but here it is:

13.82 mm

Just to clarify. X=13.8mm?

OK, somebody is beyond ANAL.

[ChanceKJ]

.

[yamatetsu]

Couldn't resist.

[johnrt]

Would it help if I told you I've just applied two strokes of primer on BOTH sides of the CP? 

Seriously: I just did.

[johnrt]

A minor update then:

Yesterday i received a couple of coin mechs from Twisted Quarter. Seems OK.


I've cut all the holes in the CP and primed it with two layers. On BOTH sides!






And I have sanded and repainted the bottom(!) and the base of the cab with my new black paint. The paint is gonna harden before I screw the base to the bottom.

In other news: It's snowing, so any outdoor activities arcade-wise is out of the question from now on. 

[vwalbridge]

I have that same coin mech from twisted quarter. It's a good mech. 

Also, I hear you on the cold weather.  I'm itching to go in the garage right now but it's cold here too.

[johnrt]

I have that same coin mech from twisted quarter. It's a good mech. 

Also, I hear you on the cold weather.  I'm itching to go in the garage right now but it's cold here too.

Do you know if there's tokens I can order somewhere that will work with these?

I don't even have a garage, just a small shed that's now filled up with tires, firewood, bicycles and other crap.

[yotsuya]

I have that same coin mech from twisted quarter. It's a good mech. 

Also, I hear you on the cold weather.  I'm itching to go in the garage right now but it's cold here too.

Do you know if there's tokens I can order somewhere that will work with these?

I don't even have a garage, just a small shed that's now filled up with tires, firewood, bicycles and other crap.

I have those .984 tokens are a tad too big and don't fit cleanly.

[wp34]

I'm planning on picking up those coin mechs as well.  Their website says they can be "adjusted to use most tokens. "  Was there anything in the instructions about this?

[johnrt]

I'm planning on picking up those coin mechs as well.  Their website says they can be "adjusted to use most tokens. "  Was there anything in the instructions about this?

As usual in this business, there's not a single paper included. But after looking at them, it seems kind of self explanatory.

[johnrt]

Top of control panel painted black.


I also cut the Lexan for the CP and the marquee:




Since I'm using 3mm Lexan over the CP the buttons won't fully reach the microswitches.


The solution is to screw in some screws into the holes of the buttons. They were just tight enough.

[vwalbridge]

Curious why your lexan is so thick? But your screw solution is clever.

Also, did you give a slight rounded corner to each corner of the lexan?

[johnrt]

Curious why your lexan is so thick? But your screw solution is clever.

Also, did you give a slight rounded corner to each corner of the lexan?

I don't have any thinner Lexan. I may change it in the future.

Yes, the corners are rounded.

[wp34]

I'm planning on picking up those coin mechs as well.  Their website says they can be "adjusted to use most tokens. "  Was there anything in the instructions about this?

As usual in this business, there's not a single paper included. But after looking at them, it seems kind of self explanatory.

Thanks.  That's funny (and typical) because their website says instructions are included. 

Your CP looks fantastic BTW.  I wish I could use those buttons on my build but I need yellow.

[johnrt]

Just couldn't resist assembling the coin door and shuff it in the cab.


I have also reset a coin cointer.


About the service switch: Is that an on/off switch or a push-button?

[SlammedNiss]

About the service switch: Is that an on/off switch or a push-button?

push button

[johnrt]

Time for T-molding. Cabinet laid down on a duvet(!) before applying it.




T-molding was applied all the way around (sorry for deviating from the original like that), but I think it adds a little strength to the edges also on the back side.




Even the CP has T-molding now:


As you can see, the T-molding from t-molding.com isn't completely flat, but it looks good nevertheless.


And during daylight today, the iPhone camera finally caught the real color of the cab:

[n3wt0n]

Looking fantastic! 

[wp34]

That looks beautiful.  Just fantastic.

[BGoulette]

What is that, velvet? That's beautiful!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

[SlammedNiss]

Regarding my previous reply about the service switch.

[johnrt]

Thank you, SlammedNiss!

Today the wheels arrived. Some real strong casters with rubber wheels! The height of these are the same as the height of the base, but I will put on some stick-on floor protectors to the bottom base and thereby raise the cab a mm or two.



Wheels were mounted with bolts through the bottom panel for extra strength.


On the bottom of the base I put on some of these (to avoid scrathing the floor):


The result (Man, the floor is already scratched!)

[ChanceKJ]

.

[johnrt]

I tried the LED downlights tonight. I think they look cool!


The middle two LED's lines up exactly over the coin mechs:


My "arcade" (missing the Tully and 3 bartops). Man, this hobby is addictive for sure!

[wp34]

I really like that blue you chose. Can you take a picture of the paint code?

[johnrt]

.

[wp34]

Thanks John!

[johnrt]

Today I checked out the monitor. This is a 20" Samsung TV. The odds for me to find a 20" arcade monitor in this country is... well... first there will be peace in the middle east.





It wouldn't be a Samsung without bad capacitors. Well, I only see ONE bad capacitor with my bare eye, but I'm gonna change most of them.

[wp34]

Now that I get a chance to see this picture on my computer (not my tiny cell) I can see that my Harry Hole novels must be translated into English.     I'll take it to Home Depot nonetheless to see if they can do anything with the code.  Did you match that blue to anything or just pick out a color you liked?

I really like that blue you chose. Can you take a picture of the paint code?

Well. The paint is norwegian, but the color is in the NCS system:
http://encycolorpedia.com/24add4
(You'll probably find a conversion code on this page if your dealer don't know about the NCS)

So it's hex color code #24ADD4, and the NCS code is S1050-B10G.

The type of paint is called Lady Supreme Finish. Semi gloss.

[johnrt]

Now that I get a chance to see this picture on my computer (not my tiny cell) I can see that my Harry Hole novels must be translated into English.     I'll take it to Home Depot nonetheless to see if they can do anything with the code.  Did you match that blue to anything or just pick out a color you liked?

It's about two years ago. I did a LOT of research on this color code. Somehow I ended up with this HEX code based on some american color codes posted on KLOV and even here. I don't remember how I ended up with this, but it sure looks good. I also used this on my Fix it Felix bartop.

Edit: I don't know how it is in your country, but here we can buy a little can of sample paint for like a couple of dollars or so just so we can test the color. It' like 1/4 of a litre in such a can.

Edit2: Bring a printout of the link I posted to your local dealer.

[johnrt]

Did some CP wiring today:


And I've ordered new caps for the TV along with this powerswitch:


Because I want to individually turn on/off the marquee/LEDs under the CP and the game itself. This way I can choose to only turn on the lights in the cab just for decorations when game is not in use. And since I'll be using a LED bar in the marquee also, the power consumption will be next to nothing when lit up for decorations.

[wp34]

Good call on the separate switch for the lights. I think you will be happy with that flexibility.

[ChanceKJ]

.

[johnrt]

Mmmm yes, the showman in me applauds your thinking with that "on display" light mode, but you loose all points with that abomination of a joystick.

You've got Nintendo switches/buttons, why not find a used Nintendo 8-Way for this?

Hey! That's a JLF! Anyway, finding a used Nintendo 8-way in this country? It'll have to do at least for now. I'm planning on making an orginal CP (I've already cut the wood for it), so I'll see what I can find for that one. But I can't make any promises!

[johnrt]

It's time to wire this thing, so tonight I made the JAMMA harness. Need to find the exact length of the wires before finishing it.


And this is a 60 in 1. Okey, don't murder me. I'll probably disable most of the games in this one. And it's easy to change to something else when that time comes.


Man, there's still a lot of work left on this cab.

[johnrt]

Got the caps for the TV today. Well, something happened at the dealer. Among all caps, I ordered and paid for 1 capacitor valued 150μF/400V. What I received was this. 100 of them!