Raspberry Pi Bartop (3rd Cab)

[Jefferson]

My first was a 4p TMNT MAME beast, started in Aug 2009 when I first found this forum (link in sig) converted from Jamma so it has a legit monitor, ArcadeVGA, Ipac4, 4-8 switchable Sanwa joys for P1+2. Basically had to fix up the cab, make an all new CP and learn MAME from nothing. Tons of console emulators. Batch Files like Super Mario War, Mugen and SF4. Runs on Maximus Arcade FE. Total asspain. Suffice to say "I learned a lot."

The second was a 2p Ms Pac cocktail from an arcade depot kit started in April 2011.  Smaller, lighter.  LCD screen saved me some headaches. U360s. Leaf Buttons! Restored a coin door. Runs Mala. Build went a little smoother, didn't have a project thread, just a few posts looking for help around the boards.  Now I'm thinking about a third cab and I STILL don't feel like I don't know what I'm doing.  Anyway!

And now... a third. Smaller, more specialized, more focused, more user friendly. Basically the dopest, crispest thing you've ever seen. Here's the plan so far:

1P CLASSIC BARTOP

-Raspberry Pi 2 Model B running RetroPie (since programming etc. is probably my weakest area.)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008XVAVAW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A30ZYR2W3VAJ0A
-Haruman Golden Age Vertical Bartop
http://shop.harumancustoms.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=56
-U360: I'm wondering if I can forego the iPac altogether if I only have 3 buttons, P1 Start, P2 Start, Coin.
-Always-on LED's: Bubble Joys, player buttons, coin button (P1/2 Starts will be un-lit mini buttons, like on Midway cocktail CPs)
-Ms Pac or Galaga Theme/Art/T-Molding
-Plays MAME vertical classics, maybe some nintendo if it looks ok.
-External volume knob!  None of my previous cabs have this.

I'm trying to get my ducks in a row and knock this one out "quick"... lets see how that goes.

[Peabo]

The U360 will do 8 buttons, 15 if using "shift", or you can use the GPIO on the raspberry.  Check my "Another Pretendo" build thread, I just did this with one of Haruman's Pretendo kits.  http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,146245.0.html

Looking forward to seeing this come together

[Jefferson]

Peabo, yours was one of the projects that pushed me over the edge!  I may have Q's for you later.

I've been looking at bartop Robotrons too now.  Decisions decisions.  All I know is, it'll be a 1P pi-powered bartop with light up joys n buttons!

[geeteoh]

Has anyone had success getting RetroPie/EmulationStation working in vertical mode? I tried a few months ago and had issues getting the EmulationStation theme to work verical. I also had strange graphics bands at the top and bottom of the AdvMane emulation that was called.

[Yvan256]

Has anyone had success getting RetroPie/EmulationStation working in vertical mode? I tried a few months ago and had issues getting the EmulationStation theme to work verical. I also had strange graphics bands at the top and bottom of the AdvMane emulation that was called.

I've got a RPi2 and started searching information about display orientation and that's also what I found. I wanted to ask if the RetroPie front-end supported automatic display rotation but if the emulators can't even support vertical displays properly in the first place, I'm far from my goal. 

[geeteoh]

I've had some luck with Attract Mode and the AdvMame emulator in vertical. I used the RP image that they created. Had to do some adjustments for my HDTV. The scrapping was about 70%, but many of the screen shots scrapped are too low of resolution. But I like the ability to describe in text what controls do what in EmulationStation.

[Jefferson]

It looks like I'm taking an "inside out" approach...

Got the R Pi 2 model B up and running in no time on the living room TV.  Using RetroPie 2.6 (3 is avail in beta).  Came with a wifi dongle that lights up, but I couldn't successfully "sudo apt-get update" or
"sudo apt-get upgrade" until I tried plugging into the router.  Not planning on a network connection to this project anyway, so I tossed some NES/SNES/N64 roms on a USB and they mirrored onto the microSD no problem.  N64 struggles, but this is more of a classic project anyway.  Emulation Station looks great. My Retrolink SNES USB controller stinks.  Very unforgiving unless certain buttons are pushed just-so.  Ordered the Buffalo controller which I hear good things about.  Random MAME roms didn't work.  (Do they ever?)

Floob had a great refresher on MAME (actually MAME4ALL) on RetroPie, romsets, versions, parent-child, etc.


I'm discovering new hurdles ahead:
-Vertical menu/emu support seems spotty with the Pi and I'd love to stick with my current RetroPie setup rather than restart.  Its already been a bit more programming than I'd like.  But if I can get that working it will make my design decisions so much easier...

-Seems like illuminating U360s is a bigger to-do than I want to handle.  I may commit to a 4-way (illuminated!) 3 button CP using an Ipac.  GPIO on the pi seems like more than I wanna bite off.

I always forget how much time is spent ironing out all the little wrinkles.  Oh well.  Fun to start a new cab.

[Jefferson]

Experimenting with Nitrogen_Widget's Attract Mode card IMG on a second card (this experimental ones only 8G... the one I've got going is 16G.) 
http://forum.attractmode.org/index.php?topic=223.0

I'm hoping I can just switch out the card and try this other avenue and preserve my progress on the retropie/ES card (and have no repercussions on the rest of the pi, if I understand them correctly)

There are a couple additional changes on this image that I will have to find a way to undo or redo per my specs.  (I need to figure out expansion of the card without raspi-config)

Want to see if I can get vertical support going for FE and MAME... would love for this to be the first step to that end

[Jefferson]

Got Nitro's Attract Mode card image up and running, but without any roms or art, all I could tell was that it boots into frontend, rotated.  First time hanging out in Linux/DietPi so I don't even know how to shut down properly.  Learned I could ESC out and use a mouse to get around a windows-like GUI.  I'm getting there!

Got a few roms on there and in the right folders, made the list in the FE, they appeared and played... un-rotated. Eventually I dug through the various config files and familiarized myself more with LXDE.  First I tried rotating at the root level (in /boot/config.txt) it rotated everything and made emulation choppy.  I reverted and then found the mame4all.cfg and changed "ror=no" to "ror=yes" and I'm MUCH happier.  Now the FE and MAME are all rotated 90 degrees with smooth emulation.  There are plenty of kinks to work out but knowing I can get a good handful of classics and a menu going vertically on my RPi2B is hugely gratifying!  Damn I might order the Haruman kit soon.

[Locke141]

Experimenting with Nitrogen_Widget's Attract Mode card IMG on a second card (this experimental ones only 8G... the one I've got going is 16G.) 
http://forum.attractmode.org/index.php?topic=223.0

I like his R-Pi image. If I ever do another bar top I'll probably use it as a base. His build has supports gpio shutdown but I think I would rather use the mash barry pi switch.

[Jefferson]

Yeah its great.  I just installed raspi-config and got into tweaking the Attract Mode frontend a bit.  Ultimately I went with "verticools" layout and found some nice fonts.  Transferred a handpicked set of roms, wheel art, and vid snaps (just using google drive, worked great)

I'm only running about 30 classics (mostly vertical, 4-way joy, 1P or 2P-alternating) in one master playlist. Trying to be strict about it... it always seems like a good idea to include more games but if you end up wanting an 8way joy or 2P-simultaneous (mario bros) its just frustrating.  That said I may add Tetris, Qbert, etc.  And I'll hear any pitches you guys have for Vertical 4-Way 2-Button -ish games:

1942
1943
Arkanoid
Burger Time
Centipede
Dig Dug
Dockman
Donkey Kong
Donkey Kong Jr
Donkey Kong 3
Frogger
Galaga
Galaga 88
Galaxian
Juno First
Mappy
Mikie
Ms Pacman
Pacman
Pooyan
Popeye (H)
Satan’s Hollow
Space Invaders
Tapper (H)
Xevious
Zaxxon

I've got some art/t-molding/CP decisions to make.  I always really liked the look of a centered joy on a Pac/Ms Pac but I don't know if the 2 buttons to the right would feel crowded. Dunno the CP dimensions on the Vertical Upright kit but I was thinking it'd look like this:

_________________________________________

1P
                                 JOY                        B2
2P                                                 B1

_________________________________________

Coin



^ The start buttons would be the small red cocktail-style kind. Illuminated 4way pink bubblejoy and buttons (any suggestions there?)... Illuminated red rectangular coin button. Also, no menu buttons. Maybe one of those nice stainless illuminated power buttons in back.

I really like the look of Maria's Ms Pac, can't tell how flat/ convex the buttons are but I like the new tech flourishes on the classic cab:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=133934.0

 

[Jefferson]

Oh also I'd go with a U360 in a heartbeat if:
a. they get along with Pi
b. theres an easy ish way to illuminate them (I've heard this is not the case... also probably extends the guts of the joy even further which could be bad for this bartop?)

[Jefferson]

Updates!  Got the kit from Haruman with art from Malenko!  Haruman even trimmed some standard pink t-molding down to the half-inch for me!  Some hot glue took care of the loose section pictured below.


Mounted the 17" dell monitor


Even painted in the speaker holes and back door edges using cheap black hobby acrylic.  It took to the wood better than a few black inks I had lying around.  Took me forever but I listened to some podcasts and I'd say the final effect is worth it.

backside:


Mounted buttons and joys, added Velcro "Industrial Strength Low Profile" to the CP, trimmed to size.  Was originally gonna wire the controls to the RPi GPIO, but I liked the idea that the iPac2 usb could be used as a CP quick disconnect from the main body if it could be mounted on the backside... and hooray, it could!  Plus the iPac is SO easy, and Andy/Ultimarc are one of my favorites on the scene so, sure, kick em some bucks.



And finally, the CP! With Paradise LED bubble joy and Pink Seimitsu buttons from Paradise Arcade.


Now... I'm in unknown territory.  Wiring up electricity:

I've got a 5V joy, 2 5V buttons, and a 5V Novagem coin insert button I want to power ("always on") via the RPi GPIO, but the more I read, the more it seems like I can't just plug these all in, I've got to do some math I'm sure to F up, get resistors that are never clearly marked, and blow up my pi.  Ugh.  If anyone can guide me on this I'd appreciate it.  The novagem site says it can plug directly.  Do I really need a breadboard?  Blech.
Here's my joy:
http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/levers-paradise-arcade/701-paradise-led-bubble-top-arcade-joystick.html
Here are my buttons
http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/seimitsu-psl-30n/1356-pink-seimitsu-ps-14-kn-30mm-pushbutton.html
which come with a harness like so:
Red Wire = LED Anode (+5V DC)
Black Wire = LED Cathode (COM)
Yellow Wire = Switch A (NO)
Green Wire = Switch B


I've also got a pair of 12V cold cathode tubes for the marquee that I can't power from the Pi.  I'm hoping that somewhere between the power from the outlet, and this power switch I need to figure out (help!):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
...and my power strip, I can light it up?  Or do I need some additional "power supply" box for that?

And finally the mausberry circuit, which seems easier than these other issues.  I've soldered to a button before.  That I can handle.
http://mausberry-circuits.myshopify.com/collections/frontpage/products/shutdown-circuit-use-your-own-switch

[JollyRoger]

For all your 5v needs you can get some thing like this

http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Premium-External-Supply-1000mA/dp/B005ODHJFM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1455499855&sr=8-1&keywords=5+v+power+supply

Just terminate all your +5v wires to a post and the returns to another, then cut the end off of this and terminate the positive and negative to the respective post.

And you can do the same for the 12v too.

http://www.amazon.com/Wall-Adapter-Power-Supply-12VDC/dp/B006GEPUYA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1455500083&sr=8-3&keywords=12+v+power+supply

[rablack97]

Updates!  Got the kit from Haruman with art from Malenko!  Haruman even trimmed some standard pink t-molding down to the half-inch for me!  Some hot glue took care of the loose section pictured below.


Mounted the 17" dell monitor


Even painted in the speaker holes and back door edges using cheap black hobby acrylic.  It took to the wood better than a few black inks I had lying around.  Took me forever but I listened to some podcasts and I'd say the final effect is worth it.

backside:


Mounted buttons and joys, added Velcro "Industrial Strength Low Profile" to the CP, trimmed to size.  Was originally gonna wire the controls to the RPi GPIO, but I liked the idea that the iPac2 usb could be used as a CP quick disconnect from the main body if it could be mounted on the backside... and hooray, it could!  Plus the iPac is SO easy, and Andy/Ultimarc are one of my favorites on the scene so, sure, kick em some bucks.



And finally, the CP! With Paradise LED bubble joy and Pink Seimitsu buttons from Paradise Arcade.


Now... I'm in unknown territory.  Wiring up electricity:

I've got a 5V joy, 2 5V buttons, and a 5V Novagem coin insert button I want to power ("always on") via the RPi GPIO, but the more I read, the more it seems like I can't just plug these all in, I've got to do some math I'm sure to F up, get resistors that are never clearly marked, and blow up my pi.  Ugh.  If anyone can guide me on this I'd appreciate it.  The novagem site says it can plug directly.  Do I really need a breadboard?  Blech.
Here's my joy:
http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/levers-paradise-arcade/701-paradise-led-bubble-top-arcade-joystick.html
Here are my buttons
http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/seimitsu-psl-30n/1356-pink-seimitsu-ps-14-kn-30mm-pushbutton.html
which come with a harness like so:
Red Wire = LED Anode (+5V DC)
Black Wire = LED Cathode (COM)
Yellow Wire = Switch A (NO)
Green Wire = Switch B


I've also got a pair of 12V cold cathode tubes for the marquee that I can't power from the Pi.  I'm hoping that somewhere between the power from the outlet, and this power switch I need to figure out (help!):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
...and my power strip, I can light it up?  Or do I need some additional "power supply" box for that?

And finally the mausberry circuit, which seems easier than these other issues.  I've soldered to a button before.  That I can handle.
http://mausberry-circuits.myshopify.com/collections/frontpage/products/shutdown-circuit-use-your-own-switch

Why not just use an old PC power supply or an arcade switching power supply?

[Jefferson]

Long time, no post!  I suffered a setback a few weeks/months ago when I burned out all my LEDs and I set Ms Pac aside for a bit.

I was using this power supply:
http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Premium-External-Supply-1000mA/dp/B005ODHJFM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1455499855&sr=8-1&keywords=5+v+power+supply
and using it to power ("always on"):
-5v Novagem Coin Button
-5v Paradise LED Joy
- 4 of these (mounted 2 per button) http://lighthouseleds.com/3mm-6v-pre-wired-led-pink-ultra-bright-10-000-mcd.html

So I know I had misapplied/didn't apply Ohm's Law.  I just now ordered replacements and this time around and am planning on using two power supplies (maxing out my in-cab outlets) and splitting it up so each only has to power 3 leds. I was going to divide it up like this:

PS1: Novagem, Joy, Button Led 1
PS2: Button Leds 2,3,4

To my understanding, these lights are all "5v" even though the button LED's are listed online as "4v 5v or 6v."  I just don't want one of the button lights to be dimmer than the others or something.  Am I on the right track here?

Can anyone confirm or deny my plan here?  Or even better, walk me thru this Ohms Law calculator?
http://www.ohmslawcalculator.com/ohms-law-calculator

[Peabo]

Your on the right path, wrong fork...  Use the LED calculator on the same site http://www.ohmslawcalculator.com/led-resistor-calculator add up the amperage draw of all of your LEDs in series (wire them in series) and get the resistor that the calculator spits out.  You want the resistor inline, to keep the LEDs from running amuck, like you already experienced

[Jefferson]

Hi all.  I've done some research and have a new plan but am still a bit in the weeds.

My pink 5mm LEDs for the buttons are the wonky variable I'm still trying to figure out.  There's a good deal of info on them here, under the "additional info" tab:
http://lighthouseleds.com/5mm-6v-pre-wired-led-pink-ultra-bright-10-000-mcd.html
...long story short, they each have resistors BUILT IN and have an forward voltage of 4-6V.  So my new plan is to wire all four of these pesky dudes to one power supply and the rest to the other (via two molexs for quick disconnect), so:

PS1(5v):
(4x) Pink 5mm LEDs:
Voltage: 6V (4-6V forward voltage)
Amperes: 20mA

PS2(5v):
(1x) NovaGemCDR coin door replacement button:
Voltage: 5V
Amperes: 100mA
&
(1x) Paradise LED Joystick Pink
Voltage: 5V
Amperes: ?? (not on paradise site, digging around...)

To Peabo-- Thanks dude.... I get that Amperage is additive, but is the Voltage draw also additive when there are multiple LEDs on one circuit?  Can this calculator factor in multiple LEDs?
http://www.ohmslawcalculator.com/led-resistor-calculator
Also-- I can't find the Amperes for my Paradise LED posted anywhere (grr), so until I do I can't fully calculate PS#2 either.  I'm not shirking your help and shying from the math...
BUT--
I figure I won't have any problem just wiring the Joy LED and the NovaGemCDR to a terminal with 5V from PS#2 cause they were working fine before and I didn't have to use any resistors.  The problems arose when I added not two, but FOUR of the Pink 5mm LEDs for the buttons (with build in resistors and variable Voltage)

I would love it if my ignorant intuitions were right and I don't have to mess with any resistors!  Please tell me so!

[JDFan]

Why the Ipac if using the Rpi couldn't you just use the GPIO directly and save the $40 ?? (esp. since you are only using 1 joystick and 4 buttons )

[Peabo]

Hi all.  I've done some research and have a new plan but am still a bit in the weeds.

My pink 5mm LEDs for the buttons are the wonky variable I'm still trying to figure out.  There's a good deal of info on them here, under the "additional info" tab:
http://lighthouseleds.com/5mm-6v-pre-wired-led-pink-ultra-bright-10-000-mcd.html
...long story short, they each have resistors BUILT IN and have an forward voltage of 4-6V.  So my new plan is to wire all four of these pesky dudes to one power supply and the rest to the other (via two molexs for quick disconnect), so:

PS1(5v):
(4x) Pink 5mm LEDs:
Voltage: 6V (4-6V forward voltage)
Amperes: 20mA

PS2(5v):
(1x) NovaGemCDR coin door replacement button:
Voltage: 5V
Amperes: 100mA
&
(1x) Paradise LED Joystick Pink
Voltage: 5V
Amperes: ?? (not on paradise site, digging around...)

To Peabo-- Thanks dude.... I get that Amperage is additive, but is the Voltage draw also additive when there are multiple LEDs on one circuit?  Can this calculator factor in multiple LEDs?
http://www.ohmslawcalculator.com/led-resistor-calculator
Also-- I can't find the Amperes for my Paradise LED posted anywhere (grr), so until I do I can't fully calculate PS#2 either.  I'm not shirking your help and shying from the math...
BUT--
I figure I won't have any problem just wiring the Joy LED and the NovaGemCDR to a terminal with 5V from PS#2 cause they were working fine before and I didn't have to use any resistors.  The problems arose when I added not two, but FOUR of the Pink 5mm LEDs for the buttons (with build in resistors and variable Voltage)

I would love it if my ignorant intuitions were right and I don't have to mess with any resistors!  Please tell me so!

That should work fine.  I would take your DMM and check the amperage being pulled by the joystick LED, I bet it's between 20-50 milliamps.  Your PI is going to want 1-1.8 amps and your adding .1amp plus whatever the joystick is wanting, so your power brick should suffice.  With 1-2 leds you can get away without a resistor to keep them from running amok, but I'd still put a 30-35 ohm 1w resistor in the circuit

[Jefferson]

JDFan--
I could've gone direct to GPIO and even bought the little jumper wires to do it, but I wanted a simple quick disconnect for the removable CP.  This way all the CP wiring is fixed to the underside of the CP and the IPAC USB is the only thing I have to disconnect to remove it.  I could have done something similar with a big molex or harness going to the GPIO I suppose.

Also, I'm just plain familiar with the IPAC and like Ultimarc as a company

And, I can admit I was a little afraid of F-ing up the pi if I did something wrong... wiring aint my strong suit as you can tell from my blown LEDs 

[Peabo]

I use Ryan Bates Pi image that has Adafruits gpio driver.  Google "retro built games gpio" and you'll find it.  Turns the setup into a no-brainer

[Locke141]

It looks like it's coming along nice. I love the the kit and art package. Is it play able?

[Jefferson]

It's lit fam



Dunno why its flipped sideways

Locke-- it is playable.  Some audio quality issues to work out and gotta figure out my mausberry safe shutdown power switch (which is running to the GPIO pins) but I'm close to the finish line

[Peabo]

Looks awesome!