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Author Topic: Midway Style Cabaret Root Beer Tapper Multicade .....(Lots of stuff going on)  (Read 13739 times)

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jahilbert

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This project started because of a horrible craigslist experience and purchase. I was excited to see a cheap Pac-Man style cabaret for sale on craigslist in May. It was two hours away but I had the time one day so I drove out to buy it. My experience on the phone with the seller was sketchy and I should have known. However, being the man I am, I rushed along gleefully to pic up what I thought was a hidden gem. What I found was a frankencab piece of trash.
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jahilbert

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It turns out it was a pseudo mame machine running a mid-90's PC with an old style monster flat monitor jutting out the back like the out Pac-Man cabarets. The artwork was a crappy Asteroids deluxe/Asteroids mashup and it was running a bluetooth joystick from the computer. There wasn't a joystick even wired to the cabinet! I was furious at myself but bought the damn thing anyways and thought I could just rip it apart and fix it.....

Oh no, no, no...........cabinet was constructed off the 90 degrees on the corners, the t-molding was nailed in. No groove on the sides. I suck. Rails off kilter and nailed and screwed into the sides at drunken angles.

Swearing and swearing, I ripped the guts out and e-wasted most of the machine. What I had created was a template. This is where things turn around.
« Last Edit: June 23, 2015, 01:12:09 am by jahilbert »
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jahilbert

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I took all the parts and measured the cabinet to get a sense of all the pieces I would need. I took the cabinet to the local lumber store and had them cut replicas of the sides and I cut the rest out of plywood. This would be the beginning of my new project.
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jahilbert

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I wanted the veneer finish of the Pac Man Cabaret machine but I have a 619-in-1 horizontal PCB I want to put into the cabinet. I am going to do a one player, 6 button Street Fighter layout but I was wondering what game could bring it all together. Wood finish, horizontal, cool, and something my kids would like.......Tapper! Ooops, Root Beer Tapper.

Ok, ok. Mr. Purist. I KNOW. Tapper has multiple joysticks and not a bunch of fighting buttons. I'm making a multicade, I'm using artistic license......AND hopefully still will use a Tap handle for the joystick.

I bought some "Teak" veneer and the awesome 3M "90" adhesive. Time to start priming, painting, and veneering. (Is veneering a word?)
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jahilbert

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Constructed rails inside the side pieces. Painted the pieces that would make up the back of the machine gloss black along with the interior of the sides. Drilled the holes for the speakers too under the marquee from a template I found online
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jahilbert

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Found an old TV mount for the Dell 19" PC monitor I hope will fit and drilled a cross beam.
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jahilbert

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Decided I wanted the look of the coin door so I cut out a hole for a coin door that didn't work for my last project, threw some veneer of the front piece and installed the coin door!
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jahilbert

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Next I veneered the side pieces. Lots of 3M spray, did it by myself, not the best way to do things that are large and awkward!
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jahilbert

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So I found and printed some of the artwork I plan to use. I also, apparently, ordered a Tapper CPO from arcadeoverlays.com after many a Blue Moon the other night! I will be cutting it up and fitting it to work with the Street Fighter layout.

Lots of beer, hmmmm, maybe I should stick with regular Tapper.......
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jahilbert

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That brings us to the present. I need to sand and clearcoat the black paint and I expect the CPO on Tuesday so I can proceed in actually putting the puzzle pieces together.

Has anyone tried to make a joystick out of a beer tap because they couldn't find a Tapper joystick? Any ideas? And if I can somehow make a joysick, what brand Root Beer?
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jahilbert

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Here it is just kind of leaning together without a drop of glue or a screw.......  At least I can see it now.
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yotsuya

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That brings us to the present. I need to sand and clearcoat the black paint and I expect the CPO on Tuesday so I can proceed in actually putting the puzzle pieces together.

Has anyone tried to make a joystick out of a beer tap because they couldn't find a Tapper joystick? Any ideas? And if I can somehow make a joysick, what brand Root Beer?

Personally, I don't think that would make a very comfortable joystick. You just slap them down in Tapper, which is easy- you don't use them to control any movement.

You control the guy in Tapper with a standard red balltop joystick.
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

jahilbert

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You're totally right. I was so concerned with the look that I forgot about the function.
« Last Edit: June 22, 2015, 02:27:26 pm by jahilbert »
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jahilbert

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Completely surprised but the Tapper overlay from www.arcadeoverlays.com showed up! That was ridiculously fast!

Ok, so I don't like the orange woodgrain on the Tapper overlay so I'm going to use my Teak veneer and then cut out the item and attach them under the plexi. The pic here is a quick layout. I have to measure and align everything after I cut out the holes for the buttons.

I also started to actually put this thing together from the base up. Started with corner braces.
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jahilbert

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What color buttons do you think I should use if I go with a red balltop joystick.

I was thinking red, white, and black.

Thoughts?
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jahilbert

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Made some significant progress tonight.

1. Attached all of the sides of the cabinet
2. Finished the control panel overlay layout and applied veneer plus decals.
3. Constructed the marquee area and attached a speaker and fluorescent light
4. Painted the aluminum siding I use for the marquee bracket

4. Discovered I had no black t-molding and ordered it on eBay
5. Discovered my bezel plexi was about 2 inches too short. Going to TAP Plastics in San Jose soon.
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jahilbert

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More evening progress
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Vidiot

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Surprised they're aren't more comments in this thread. This is looking great.:applaud: I actually really like the wooden veneer look and I want to build a cabaret with it some day. I think Orange, White, and Black would be sweet color combination for the buttons. Reminds me of A&W root beer. :lol
I love the idea of using the real tapper handles but Yots is right, I doubt they would be comfortable to play on.

Keep up the great work.


yotsuya

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If the game booted right into Tapper, you have enough space there to add a tap to play it the right way. That would be cool. You could always then exit out to the menu to play the other games.
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yotsuya

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Surprised they're aren't more comments in this thread. This is looking great.:applaud: I actually really like the wooden veneer look and I want to build a cabaret with it some day.

I like the wood look, too. Seems like today most dudes like garish colors for their cabs, and so the wood look is somewhat out of favor. But I think it looks cool.
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If the game booted right into Tapper, you have enough space there to add a tap to play it the right way. That would be cool. You could always then exit out to the menu to play the other games.

That is an awesome idea!


jahilbert

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You guys rock. Thanks.  Our local lumber place was going out of business so the veneer was 50% off as well! Double bonus!

Ok, @Vidiot and @yotsuya.......here's the next set of questions.

1. Do you think the tap would work better on the left of the joystick area or on the far right of the buttons?

2. I was originally planning this as a jamma pcb project, so......

     a. Can you splice a wire in jamma and have two buttons go to one slot. (Like button 1 and the up on the Tap being wired together)
     b. I forget if the 'tap" is just one microswitch or two. Do you need to pull and push or just 1 action?

3. If you go with the  orange, white, and black and get an A&W rootbeer tap second joystick..............what color do you use for the main joystick?

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yotsuya

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You guys rock. Thanks.  Our local lumber place was going out of business so the veneer was 50% off as well! Double bonus!

Ok, @Vidiot and @yotsuya.......here's the next set of questions.

1. Do you think the tap would work better on the left of the joystick area or on the far right of the buttons?

2. I was originally planning this as a jamma pcb project, so......

     a. Can you splice a wire in jamma and have two buttons go to one slot. (Like button 1 and the up on the Tap being wired together)
     b. I forget if the 'tap" is just one microswitch or two. Do you need to pull and push or just 1 action?

3. If you go with the  orange, white, and black and get an A&W rootbeer tap second joystick..............what color do you use for the main joystick?

1. Put in on the right. It'll feel more natural.
2. a) Yes, you should be fine.
    b) Just one action. On my mame cab, pressing down on P2 activates the tap. I set up MAME to do it that way. But it's just one action.
3. I'd use a red balltop, myself.

 :cheers:
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Vidiot

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You guys rock. Thanks.  Our local lumber place was going out of business so the veneer was 50% off as well! Double bonus!

Ok, @Vidiot and @yotsuya.......here's the next set of questions.

1. Do you think the tap would work better on the left of the joystick area or on the far right of the buttons?

2. I was originally planning this as a jamma pcb project, so......

     a. Can you splice a wire in jamma and have two buttons go to one slot. (Like button 1 and the up on the Tap being wired together)
     b. I forget if the 'tap" is just one microswitch or two. Do you need to pull and push or just 1 action?

3. If you go with the  orange, white, and black and get an A&W rootbeer tap second joystick..............what color do you use for the main joystick?

1. Put in on the right. It'll feel more natural.
2. a) Yes, you should be fine.
    b) Just one action. On my mame cab, pressing down on P2 activates the tap. I set up MAME to do it that way. But it's just one action.
3. I'd use a red balltop, myself.

 :cheers:

I agree with all that! ;D


jahilbert

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Taking some advice, I have gone with the new colors and drilled a spot for the "tap" joystick. If I was going to do this again, I would have moved the Tap up towards the player and further to the outside. It won't be in the way where it is, I'm just a bigger guy and my hands will be close to it.

(If it sucks, I'll just do it all over again....and spend the $50 for the wood, plexi, and artwork......sigh. I'd space it out a bit wider as well)

I also finished the marquee brackets and attached the plexi and print a preliminary marquee.
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If your goal is to truly play a lot of Tapper on this machine, you'll be happy with the results.  :cheers:
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I would use a joystick with a 2-way restrictor plate.

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I would use a joystick with a 2-way restrictor plate.

+1
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jahilbert

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Perfect idea. Thanks! This is exactly why I posted this project! You guys have already improved my idea immensely!

My next dilemma is attaching the plexi down by the control panel. Any ideas on what type of bracket or apparatus I might use?
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Piece of angle iron painted black should do the trick for the bottom bezel plexi

~Building Arcade Cabinets are like raising children, you always mess up your first~

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Alrighty.

1. Attached the back door. Discovered I was 5/8" off in my overall measurements so I have a sweet gap there in the back. Gloss black looks good though.

2. Populated the CPO. Went with a Happ stick where the "Tap" controller will go for now. I have to order a restrictor plate but I like the feel of the joystick.

3. Put in rails and figured out my plexi issue.

4. Mounted a 19" Dell PC monitor.

Now, off to wire and get Tapper up on the screen. Won't have the t-molding, Bezel and final marquee art until around July 4th. Looking for the right "tap" on eBay as well.

Thoughts? Suggestions? What do you think of the color selection of the buttons?
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It might be worth redoing the control panel eventually. It looks pretty unbalanced now that you have the tap joystick installed. It also makes your pour and serve stickers in the wrong spot. It will be confusing for anyone else but you to play.

jahilbert

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I agree. I think that it needs to be spread out quite a bit. I also would change the thickness of the wood I'm using so that the joysticks will be higher off of the control panel. Luckily, I'm a teacher and I have my summer off so next week I will be able to make the modifications.

Other than that, I freaking love it. Neck deep in Jamma wiring at the moment.
« Last Edit: June 24, 2015, 09:36:46 am by jahilbert »
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jahilbert

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Xanadu!

Most of the wiring is done! Spliced the P1 button to the second joystick for Tapper and it works beautifully!

Now time to clean up wires and print some artwork! Maybe some t-molding!

Update next week! Thanks for the input!
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Yeah, nothing like the feel of a tap/joystick to do the pour in Tapper. Glad you went with it.
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jahilbert

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It's not even close! Right?

So much fun. The "feel" is back for sure. Now I have find the tap that works with a joystick. I won't consider it done until then! Thanks again for the input!

Update next week after camping and a paycheck!
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jahilbert

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Back from the Sonoma Coast and Camping to find a few packages!

Black T-Molding and a couple possible Root Beer taps were waiting that I purchased from eBay.

1. Put on the black t-molding (what a difference that silly stuff makes, right?)

2. Attempted to see if a joystick top thread and a root beer soda fountain tap thread were compatible...............in short, no. Was there any doubt?

I bought a Fanta root beer tap handle that didn't have any threading inside. This may work because I can epoxy the tap to the joystick handle or at least create a hard "threaded" surface within the tap as the epoxy will bond to the plastic.

The A&W tap was the right size! However, the tap had a fine thread and the joystick had a coarse thread......disappointing but expected. The plastics place down the street told me of a shop in the area (San Jose) that may be able to help me out with my quest. In the meantime, I bought a few more cool looking soda taps on eBay that I'm going to try and clean up and use. I'm also going to make stickers to create logos for the various Root Beer brands to see what vibes the best with the look.

Lastly, I think I'm going to put a generic black kick plate guard at the bottom to protect the veneer from peeling up in the front. I can see this becoming a long term issue and the kick plate work take away from the look of the cab.
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Excellent.
Love the classic styling.

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I would use a joystick with a 2-way restrictor plate.

+1

What am I missing here. Tapper uses all 4 directions, right? What's the 2 way restrictor for?

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The red ball top has all four directions. You're absolutely right. The second joystick will only be used for Tapper and is the tap. The "tap" joystick, the temporary black one on the right, only needs to "pull" towards you. There is no side to side needed for that. I have a Happ competition joystick in there right now with just the "down" microswitch spliced wired to the P1 Button 1 slot on my jamma harness.

I hope that made sense
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