MELTDOWN Wide Vewlix Style Build - Major backlog updates

[Electronuclear]

Hey guys!

Been waiting a LONG time to do this.  Things are finally comming together.  I will be building a vewlix inspired cabinet.  Just started the designing process, with plans modified from Donovan Myers.  Have some begining artwork for the marquiee that I would love some feedback on, and any other tips that you guys feel are worthwhile.

Has anyone here used the RGB LED joysticks from Paradise Arcade?  What are your thoughts?

Howler boards?

Still working on the CPO, taking into account simplifying it.  My subscription to Adobe Illustrator has expired, so waiting when I have ample time to work on it in one stretch.

Below is the the idea.  I stretched it out to accommodate a Sharp 42" LED TV.  Ordered a hyperspin machine (yeah yeah, I jumped on the bandwagon, cue the music) from Chris Upchurch.  Top notch guy IMO.

I need help with the trackball.  I tried searching the forums for how to mount.  Apparently I need a mounting plate, but I do not want the mounting plate to be visible from the top.  The trackball is a 3" RGB trackball from GGG.  (same thing as 3" from Suzo-Happ).  Is there a thread that shows how to mount this from the underside with no visible mounting plate from the top.

The RGB LED Joysticks from paradise arcade are GARBAGE.  They are a modded Seimetsu joystick, hollowed out with a RGB LED stuck in the ball of the joystick.  The joystick has deadzones in one direction and a lot of play in them.  The wires for the LED exit out of the bottom of the shaft and are prone to fray if there is any tension placed on them, which can happen over time.  Fortunatly, Paradise Arcade is letting be swap them out.  Considering the magnetic centering joysticks that are fairly new from IL (Industrias Lorenzo), has anyone here had experience with those?

And how the hell do I post a picture directly in my feed instead of as an attachment?

Thanks

[coyo5050]

Just my opinion but the CP seems kind of busy for me. Maybe remove the words next to the buttons or the periodic table squares? The theme overall seems cool though.

[rablack97]

CP art work...........   No sir, way too much going on.  Unless you plan on playing one game only and the words pertain to that game only, remove the button verbiage, remove the periodic table stuff, bring your green reactor symbol up to center and remove the pink lines and the rocket thing its connected too.  Your fluid lines could possibly flow through your buttons, change color to a bright yellow and remove the big blue towers things and leave the yellow flask.  It needs to flow better, and you dont have to have everysingle spot on your CP covered with something.  May incorporate some button and jstik surrounds...

J-sticks are ok, just make sure you get the anti twist thingy's they offer, so your wires dont get tangled.

Never used a howler,but i've heard a few have died after limited used, Josh may have updated the firmware and hardware to fix this though.  It's been awhile since i've looked at it.

Led Wiz, PACLED64, Kade and IPAC...have been the confirmed powerhouses of choice.

[stuckpixel]

Tough love time.

The marquee is 'okay', but please take off "Michael's". It's tacky. I'd also do some searching for a better font that goes with your design more.

I don't like the CP art. It's way too busy.

What's with all the randomly scattered elements? Why are the buttons labeled with fast/slow/valve?

On top of that, the text is pretty hard to read.

I don't think there's anything wrong with a radioactive type theme -- but I would put some further effort into the CP design. Look at some of the HoF examples in the stickied thread for ideas of how to move forward. Sometimes, less is more with design.

[yotsuya]

Are you building this for someone named Michael? If you're building it for yourself, lose the name.

The graphics remind me of something from the "Windows 98" era. It's a good start, but I'd really look for a way to refine the graphics. You should never fall in love with your first draft.

[JDFan]

Don't want to pile on here but have to agree with the critiques so far -- Also remember you are going to have plenty of room to add elements of the design in the sideart to get the theme across - so reducing the amount of stuff on the CP will make it look better. Would agree with the name but if you really want you're name on it then it is your build ( though a well placed Serial plate with you listed as the manufacturer could fulfill that desire. )

Overall it is a good start and Look forward to seeing it evolve 

[Generic Eric]

with plans modified from Donovan Myers. 

Is that the guy that showed his viewlix in the warehouse?

I agree to remove "Michael's"

Are you already playing games on that panel?  Seems like there is a lot going on there.  I'd consider cutting and playing on that panel before the artwork. 

[matsadona]

If you are not in the "less is more" mode, then go all in. Add some dials and blinking lights

[matsadona]

You could keep the general concept but still be minimalistic about it.
Look at the BLIP cabinet (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,137295.msg1415987.html#msg1415987), and try to do something similar, but based on your idea. Some backlit could do it awesome.

There is a Tron build here somewhere doing a good job with that idea also... (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,116519.320.html)

[Electronuclear]

with plans modified from Donovan Myers. 

Is that the guy that showed his viewlix in the warehouse?

I agree to remove "Michael's"

Are you already playing games on that panel?  Seems like there is a lot going on there.  I'd consider cutting and playing on that panel before the artwork.

Not sure if he showed it or not?
Here's links to his youtube videos:




No not playing any games on the CP yet.  I definetly want a 4 player design.  There will be no spinner or additional joystick.  I have to engineer the CP from the ground up though, b/c it doesn't look like there are any 4-player vewlix's out there.

[Electronuclear]

Tough love time.

The marquee is 'okay', but please take off "Michael's". It's tacky. I'd also do some searching for a better font that goes with your design more.

I don't like the CP art. It's way too busy.

What's with all the randomly scattered elements? Why are the buttons labeled with fast/slow/valve?

On top of that, the text is pretty hard to read.

I don't think there's anything wrong with a radioactive type theme -- but I would put some further effort into the CP design. Look at some of the HoF examples in the stickied thread for ideas of how to move forward. Sometimes, less is more with design.

"tough love" in the form of constructive feedback is always welcome!

The CP is actually a Nuclear Reactor plant design, simplified (I know tough to believe).  The buttons were labeled that way as a clever idea that yes, you are infact operating a nuclear reactor.  Operating the pumps for coolant flow, fast, slow, or off.  Not sure if I want to remove the labels or not.  Maybe a better font and overall outline to the buttons is in order?

The randomly scattered elements are actually chosen for a reason, they are fission products that result from a nuclear reaction.  With the exception of Hafnium, that element is really stable, and it is used for control rods in a nuclear reactor.  Nonetheless, though,  I think they can be removed, to clean it up a little bit.

Not sure what you mean by HoF examples, but will try and find them. 

[a1pharm]

Some people like designing their cabs with arcade irrelevant art (3 of the cabs I've build have been NFL oriented - all for other people).  Sometimes this works, sometimes it doesn't.  A safe bet is to only use arcade relevant art on your cab.  If you want to do something novel/non-arcade related with your art, you will probably find a lot of tough love here.  However, if you work at a nuc plant, and have your coworkers over to play, they will probably love the design.  Virtually anyone else will not.

In the end, the design is up to you.

That said, if you go the nuclear route, be sure to "tighten" your artwork up and make it "pop."  It is doing neither of these things as is.  Good luck!

[yotsuya]

Some people like designing their cabs with arcade irrelevant art (3 of the cabs I've build have been NFL oriented - all for other people).  Sometimes this works, sometimes it doesn't.  A safe bet is to only use arcade relevant art on your cab.  If you want to do something novel/non-arcade related with your art, you will probably find a lot of tough love here.  However, if you work at a nuc plant, and have your coworkers over to play, they will probably love the design.  Virtually anyone else will not.

In the end, the design is up to you.

That said, if you go the nuclear route, be sure to "tighten" your artwork up and make it "pop."  It is doing neither of these things as is.  Good luck!

I think the second thing is more of an issue than the first thing. It's not that it's nuclear-themed, it's that it's not done very cohesively yet.

[Generic Eric]

with plans modified from Donovan Myers. 

Is that the guy that showed his viewlix in the warehouse?

I agree to remove "Michael's"

Are you already playing games on that panel?  Seems like there is a lot going on there.  I'd consider cutting and playing on that panel before the artwork.

Not sure if he showed it or not?
Here's links to his youtube videos:




No not playing any games on the CP yet.  I definetly want a 4 player design.  There will be no spinner or additional joystick.  I have to engineer the CP from the ground up though, b/c it doesn't look like there are any 4-player vewlix's out there.

That guy seems cool.  There was a different dude that posted a vewlix, I think it was Star Wars themed.  He posted plans that were marginally discernible, then wanted to charge something like $4k before delivery. 

When you said you modified someones plans, I was curious of the context.  Anyway, I watched a bit of the first video you posted and it seems the plans are free, so have fun.

Not sure what you mean by HoF examples, but will try and find them. 

Hall of Fame

Also check out the UCA's

2011 UCA Award Winners

2012 UCA Award Winners

2013 UCA Award Winners

[horizon]

I was thinking the Simpson's nuclear Reactor would be interesting to incorporate, and maybe the inanimate bar that Homer tosses out of his shirt.  I think you could do some cartoonish but not over the top "dials" where the joysticks go.  Maybe some kind of mushroom cloud around the buttons.

I like your start, I think theres a way for you to achieve your goal and make it have some more negative space.

 I think some of the labels are redundant and would, IMO, cause confusion.  ie "Press P1 UP and P1 Slow to select a game". 

I like the idea of the different periodic table elements, but dont enjoy how they are used.

[a1pharm]

Some people like designing their cabs with arcade irrelevant art (3 of the cabs I've build have been NFL oriented - all for other people).  Sometimes this works, sometimes it doesn't.  A safe bet is to only use arcade relevant art on your cab.  If you want to do something novel/non-arcade related with your art, you will probably find a lot of tough love here.  However, if you work at a nuc plant, and have your coworkers over to play, they will probably love the design.  Virtually anyone else will not.

In the end, the design is up to you.

That said, if you go the nuclear route, be sure to "tighten" your artwork up and make it "pop."  It is doing neither of these things as is.  Good luck!

I think the second thing is more of an issue than the first thing. It's not that it's nuclear-themed, it's that it's not done very cohesively yet.

Cohesive... that's the term I was grasping for earlier.  +1

[Electronuclear]

Updated with more items at the top.

[coyo5050]

That's going to be a very large arcade cabinet if you are using a 42". Typical size is 32 and my slim style is a 23. I think I saw someone else post a project with a 42" and they used steel bars for their base.

I did a lot of research before making mine but I dont think I have ever seen a 4 play version Vewlix style cabinet. Since it is traditionally a sit down style cab have you checked to see if 4 people could fit or are you going to raise the height to make it so 4 players can stand at it.

Before you make your CP, you should finalize your artwork or get it at least close. Best to print then drill holes than the reverse.

[a1pharm]

Before you make your CP, you should finalize your artwork or get it at least close. Best to print then drill holes than the reverse.

+1 to having your artwork mostly finalized, and +1,000,000 to drilling your holes after printing.

[Electronuclear]

Finally figured something useful out.   

Final Draft control panel close up by crymicmoore, on Flickr

I don't really care for how the 3rd and 4th player areas are layed out.  Think I'm either going to have to make the CP longer (already close to 38" long), or move the trackball upward to move the two joysticks together.

Final Draft by crymicmoore, on Flickr

[a1pharm]

I think you're trying to put a round peg in a square hole.

[SMEAR_FLA]

I don't want to be "that guy", but a Vewlix style cabinet with four sticks and a trackball doesn't seem right (although a trackball could probably be worked in without being offensive).

In your renders, the  placement of the 3rd and 4th player looks very unnatural/uncomfortable. I would also recommend that the trackball be more centered in the panel.

38" long is pretty large. I'm currently contructing a Vewlix inspired cab and my panel is about 31 inches across and I think I might have created more real estate than I need. I really hope this thing works out though. It'll be a beast.

[yotsuya]

I don't want to be "that guy", but a Vewlix style cabinet with four sticks and a trackball doesn't seem right (although a trackball could probably be worked in without being offensive).

No, I agree with you. That cab style isn't suited for 4 players. It's designed for two people sitting side by side.

[coyo5050]

Set up 4 chairs and have 4 people sit in them next to each other and see how much space that takes up. I'm looking at my dining room table and I just cant envision a 4 play setup working for a Vewlix. I'm fine with the trackball, I kind of wish I had enough room to add one. Trouble is although I made the controller section modular to swap in something else, I dont think the CP itself is deep enough vertically to ever fit a trackball.

[Electronuclear]

I really like the fact that as a child I played a lot of 4 player games.  TMNT, X-men (6-player!), Simpson's.....just to name a few. 

Drawing inspiration from those. 

I don't plan on having four players at the arcade the whole time, but the possibility of when I have parties or whatever, I want to be able to share those experiences with my friends and family.  I will probably end up doing two different control panels.  One being longer (~46 inches) with the trackball where it is and the other same specs as now (~39 inches) with the trackball more centered in the CP field.  More to follow tomorrow and I'll let guys wiegh in on what looks better.

As for sitting four people side by side

It should work 

[yotsuya]

I really like the fact that as a child I played a lot of 4 player games.  TMNT, X-men (6-player!), Simpson's.....just to name a few. 

Drawing inspiration from those. 

I don't plan on having four players at the arcade the whole time, but the possibility of when I have parties or whatever, I want to be able to share those experiences with my friends and family.  I will probably end up doing two different control panels.  One being longer (~46 inches) with the trackball where it is and the other same specs as now (~39 inches) with the trackball more centered in the CP field.  More to follow tomorrow and I'll let guys wiegh in on what looks better.

As for sitting four people side by side

It should work 

PBJ wuz there

[Electronuclear]

More drafting and planning.  I changed to layout a bit.  Two different options below.  We will call the one on the left (A) the original, (B) in the middle has the trackball centered, and (C) wider control panel to accomodate the trackball. 

Control Panel Comparison by crymicmoore

Some different views,

Control Panel Comparison 3 by crymicmoore

Control Panel Comparison 2 by crymicmoore

This is a close up of the pane of original dimensions, I changed the trackball to be more centered in the panel.  I also changed the button layout for P3 and P4.  I think I like this design the most, but just concernicous about the trackball for games like centipede and golden tee.

Control Panel Comparison Trackball Centered Close up by crymicmoore

Bigger control panel.  Same layout as the original just less crowed.  I will have to adjust my dimensions for the cab if I go this route.

Control Panel Comparison Wider Panel by crymicmoore

What do you think? 

[Electronuclear]

Been doing a lot of work on this thing.  Build seems to be coming along nicely.

Things to finish up:
-Top of the cabinet where the round part is
-Control Panel
-Finishing and Painting
-Wiring and installation

Trying to come up with some different artwork taking into account some of the feedback that I have received.  Preliminary artwork, let me know your thoughts

Marquee Meltdown 2 by crymicmoore

Some wood cutting here:

IMG_0669 by crymicmoore

IMG_0679 by crymicmoore, on Flickr

Assembly of the base

IMG_0684 by crymicmoore

Routing out vent louvers

IMG_0677 by crymicmoore, on Flickr

Need to get some hinges, but just test fitting, seems to fit pretty well.  There is a small gap (1/8" or so on the right corner).  Not too sure what happened there, maybe the circular saw tracked inward on me when I was cutting.  I don't mind so much as this will be on the back of the panel.

IMG_0687 by crymicmoore

Cut the sides

IMG_0688 by crymicmoore

Assembled those with the TV mount

IMG_0689 by crymicmoore

Front view

IMG_0690 by crymicmoore

Test fit of the coin door, "llllllllllike a glove"

IMG_0671 by crymicmoore

[Electronuclear]

As for the trackball:  I have a GGG RGB 3" "high profile trackball, which is essentially a modified 3" Suzo-happ trackball.  I get the general router out the moutning plate, so that it will lay flush with the CP, and I will have to trim out the "football" shape for the trackball. 

My concern is how do I cut the plexiglass?

 And what dimensions do I need to cut the hole?

[rablack97]

You have to have your CP layout pretty much complete

cut a 3" hole in your CP first where you want the center of the trackball to be, with a 3" hole cutter.



Lay your plexi on the CP and flush cut your buttons and the the t-ball hole, with a router and flush cut bit.  If you dont have a plunge router, carefully drill out holes big enough for the flush cut bit to go through.

Then go back and mount the t-ball, ball should fit right in the 3" hole.















MCSEFORSALE made a template for the happs t-ball, the thread should help you as well

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,119081.msg1261379.html#msg1261379

[Electronuclear]

Trying to figure out how to get the plexiglass cut on the marquee.  It has rounded edges and I'm not too sure on how to tackle that.  My thought is to make a template out of spare wood and use a flush trim bit to route out the shape.

Option two would be to cut the plexiglass square and have some sort of recessed square area within the wood.  Any help on how "they" do the vewlix style marquee's would be appreciated.



On another note, took a lot of the feedback, "simplified" the artwork.  Please weigh in on you thoughts, how can it be improved, what I should add, looks good, don't change a thing etc.

Control Panel Overlay (CPO)
Control Panel

Marquee
Marquee Take 3

[keilmillerjr]

This is what I would try for the marquee:
Print template from model on paper and spray glue to cheap but not too flimsy plastic.
Pre cut plastic somewhat close to template with 45 grinder or dremel.Place belt sander in vice upside down.
Sand your plastic to match template, being careful to not bounce and crack plastic.
Use router to cut a clean plexi and printed plexi using your template.

[Electronuclear]

Its been raining here in the midwest, so had to work mostly in the garage today.  Wished I could have gotten more done, but I guess perfection takes time.  I'm a bit pissed off with my router right now.  I had two 45 degree bits that I used to route some edges on my control panel, but as one can see, had quite a bit of tear out on the side panel.  Its nothing a little wood filler and sanding won't fix.  It's just a pain in the buttocks to fix and wait.

Went ahead and ordered my graphics.  Went to FedEx to get it done.  Having the marquee put on special plastic that they have specifically for backlite signs.  Put the CP artwork on some nice photopaper that they said would resist fading.

Checklist of things to do still:
-Cut wood with rounded edges for the back to mount LED lights
-Cut the same piece for the front and cut out the middle to serve as a mounting bracket for the marquee plastic
-Route out the recess in the CP for plexiglass
-Cut different pieces of plexiglass (not going to lie here, this part scares the sh*t out of me, b/c there's really no room for error)
-Fill in wood filler
-Sand
-Paint
-Wire up

The tear out:
IMG_0728

More wood filling
IMG_0727

Finished the top "round over" part:
IMG_0726

[a1pharm]

Trying to figure out how to get the plexiglass cut on the marquee.  It has rounded edges and I'm not too sure on how to tackle that.  My thought is to make a template out of spare wood and use a flush trim bit to route out the shape.

Option two would be to cut the plexiglass square and have some sort of recessed square area within the wood.  Any help on how "they" do the vewlix style marquee's would be appreciated.



On another note, took a lot of the feedback, "simplified" the artwork.  Please weigh in on you thoughts, how can it be improved, what I should add, looks good, don't change a thing etc.

Control Panel Overlay (CPO)
Control Panel

Marquee
Marquee Take 3

Nice work on this art update!   

I read about your router, too: I had the same issue until I got a 2 1/4hp router.  When yours burns out, consider upgrading - it's totally worth it

[Electronuclear]

With the control panel extending as far as it does, I was worried about the arcade machine tipping over.  So I decided to make a wheel frame for the bottom.  I used a mortiss and tenon set-up, which took forever to do, since I don't have any jigs.  It was a lot of hand work with the chisel, but it becam a solid wheel base for the bottom.

Working on the bottom frame:
IMG_0948 by Michael Moore

Hand cutting with a hacksaw:
IMG_0950 by Michael Moore

Clamped the bottom to take measurements for the tennon work:
IMG_0947 by Michael Moore

With the wheels on:
IMG_0952 by Michael Moore

[Electronuclear]

Test fit of the plexiglass.  Big story here.  I tried using a plexiglass scoring tool, as recomended in "the book."  As instructed I scored both sides trying to get about 1/2 way through the plexi.  Lets just say that this did not work in my favor, as I went to strike down on the plexi, it was so thick that it bounced up and down and a crack propigated through my strait edge to the other side,

Fortunetly, the cracked area was able to be salvaged and chipped of since my CP bezels inward at the bottom corners.  If anyone in the forums has any good suggestions or there is a good section in the forum please let me know for future reference.

IMG_0951 by Michael Moore

Also of note here, with my panel being inlayed with plexiglass, I thought that I could get away with using a forstner bit, and sandwiching my artwork between the CP and the plexiglass.  I had several areas where the forstner bit tore up the area of my artwork around the buttons.  So my options at this point are to live with it or fork over another 70 bucks to Fedex to reprint the graphic.  I think at this point I am going to leave it as is, I have the artwork file and I can always get it reprinted in the future when I have an extra 70 bucks lying around.

[Electronuclear]

Test fitting buttons:

IMG_0953 by Michael Moore

I was trying to determine if I wanted a top mount or a bottom mount.  There is an excellent example of how to do a really good bottome mount.  The only problem is you have to take a trip down to your local metal working shop and have them custom cut and drill out a metal plate for the support brackets.  The other issue that I had with this typ of mount, is I am using 1/4 plexiglass on 3/4 inch plywood.  That only leaves me 1/2 inch of plywood to work with.  Since I have an inlayed top panel, I decided to do a top mount.  They seem sturdy enough.  And I counter sunk all the screw holes so my artwork and plexi will lay flush.

This is the top mount method.  Next to it was the bottom mount.  The recess was just too deep for me to put that in 1/2 inch of plywood:
IMG_0960 by Michael Moore

And yes that is a cracked piece of plexiglass from when I was cutting my CP inlay

IMG_0961 by Michael Moore

IMG_0962 by Michael Moore

[Electronuclear]

This is what I would try for the marquee:
Print template from model on paper and spray glue to cheap but not too flimsy plastic.
Pre cut plastic somewhat close to template with 45 grinder or dremel.Place belt sander in vice upside down.
Sand your plastic to match template, being careful to not bounce and crack plastic.
Use router to cut a clean plexi and printed plexi using your template.

Hey man, just wanted to say thanks for your idea on the marquee.  Worked like a charm and here is the test fit:
IMG_0964 by Michael Moore

[Electronuclear]

You have to have your CP layout pretty much complete

cut a 3" hole in your CP first where you want the center of the trackball to be, with a 3" hole cutter.

Lay your plexi on the CP and flush cut your buttons and the the t-ball hole, with a router and flush cut bit.  If you dont have a plunge router, carefully drill out holes big enough for the flush cut bit to go through.

Then go back and mount the t-ball, ball should fit right in the 3" hole.

MCSEFORSALE made a template for the happs t-ball, the thread should help you as well

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,119081.msg1261379.html#msg1261379

Thanks to you too man, I really appreciate the help

This is how the CP is turning out

IMG_0965 by Michael Moore

IMG_1022 by Michael Moore

[Electronuclear]

The next series of pictures is painting.  I let that speak for itself.  I used lacquer from Sherwin Williams.  I started by filling all the wood holes with a product called Timbermate.  I highly recommend it.  It can be thinned out with water and readily accepts paints or stains.  I have used this product in the past to fill in wood grain holes. 

To get the final shine on my machine I will be using a procedure called "rubbing out"  And I'll wait while you chuckle.........and if you didn't get that joke, congrats your mind is pure.  Here's a great video on how to do it: 

Filling in the cracks with Timbermate:
IMG_0967 by Michael Moore

IMG_0968 by Michael Moore

IMG_0969 by Michael Moore

IMG_0970 by Michael Moore