Author Topic: First build - Vewlix W - Done! (Read 18528 times)

coyo5050 · « **on:** February 11, 2015, 10:51:22 pm »

I've been reading and researching this forum for a long time and a couple weeks ago I started my first project.

I really like the look of the Vewlix style and wanted something slimmer and sit down style. This is going to be a 1 player cabinet with an ASUS 23" monitor.

I took my inspiration from SpaceHedgeHog's Vewlix. Made several changes, most obvious that since I am in the US converting to inches. Here are some pics from the beginning of my project getting the majority of the pieces cut. I used 3/4 MDF for most of it, with some 1/2 and 1/4 in some areas. The feet are 2x4's that I cut to size and the trim on the inside of the uprights is a 1x2 that I cut to size. A table saw and miter saw made this a lot easier. I have definitely made some mistakes and learned from them if I ever do another one. In my building process I have also figured out several things that were not mistakes but that I would do differently regarding the base and the painting.

coyo5050 · « **Reply #1 on:** February 11, 2015, 11:06:08 pm »

Some more progress pics.

Used Bondo to hide the seams between two MDF boards.

The miter saw and table saw were very helpful in making the control panel. 45 degree cuts on the table saw and all of the angle cuts with the miter saw.

Used 1/2 MDF with a 5mm underlayment that I found at the big box hardware store, .80mm plex to finish it off. The artwork for the CP is temporary, I dont like the look and its a couple pieces of paper so you can see the seams. Will order 1 piece when I finalize the artwork. Used an Ipac2, Sanwa stick and buttons. I will be playing mostly fighters with a various mix of other games through MAME. I decided on 3 extra buttons but am rethinking how to assign them. I am open to suggestions.

coyo5050 · « **Reply #2 on:** February 11, 2015, 11:22:04 pm »

These are the colors I decided on. Semi-gloss black and silver metallic from Rustoleum. I believe from researching this is a color combination you would actually find. I am stuck with rattle cans. Which reminds me doing this in the winter in NY is bad timing. I was worried the silver metallic would be to sparkly but after testing it out it is a nice silver color. I finished everything off with clear coat enamel. I was going to go with a nice smooth mirror like polished finish for the black but decided for my first time to go with the added durability of the clear coat. (I also started of with satin black paint so after sanding and polishing the black was uneven looking, one of my mistakes). I really like the cobolt blue but went silver. I am wondering if there is a way I can use that color somewhere on the cabinet for finishing touches/artwork....

After spending forever on ways to seal MDF I decided to go with Zinsser B-I-N. The stuff works great, only needs to coats, sands easy. Then used filler primer before the color paint.

One of my mistakes was painting where I need to glue, so I had to sand off the paint on the sides of the box part that you can see in the pic.

I used magnetic latches you would find on kitchen cabinets to keep the top part of the CP attached. It holds really strong but I can still remove it to get to the electronics. The actual section with the stick/buttons fits in real tight but I am wonder if there is anything else I should do to further secure it? The CP will be attached to the cabinet with 4 x 5/16 bolts. I believe this should be pretty secure. I want the CP to be relatively modular if I was to change something out.

These pictures represent where I am at now. Right now I am stuck on how to mount the 23" LCD monitor. I was thinking some 2x2 attached to the sides and screws into the board holding the monitor. I am not sure if this the most secure way of doing it with the weight all on the side pieces, plus I cant glue it if I ever want to remove it (in case the monitor ever fails). I am open to suggestions as to how others have done it?

What does everyone usually do as far as finishing the parts you can not see? Do you prime paint, leave be, something else? I primed and painted the bottom mainly to seal the MDF the insides I have done nothing with.

Thanks for looking.

bfauska · « **Reply #3 on:** February 11, 2015, 11:52:51 pm »

Looks like a pretty slick design and well executed. First arcade build but there must be some other similar activities in your past.

SpaceHedgehog · « **Reply #4 on:** February 12, 2015, 02:44:29 pm »

This is looking really nice! I can't recall whether I posted a picture on how to mount the monitor but I just made a backing board, mounted the monitor to that and screwed it into place. This adds extra stability to the frame as well:

I'd be horrified with the wavy cut on the back of the arched section these days ...

mgb · « **Reply #5 on:** February 12, 2015, 07:35:31 pm »

Looking grea .
I do enjoy a nicely executed Vewlix
Great work

coyo5050 · « **Reply #6 on:** February 12, 2015, 10:30:48 pm »

Thanks for the compliments! Got a lot of work done today. Figured out my monitor situation. Mounted a 1x6 to the back and split some 2x4's which are screwed in to the back board as well as the sides. In addition they are also supported by the shelf below. More painting to do and waiting on some speaker grilles. I also started work on the back. Going to use 1/8 hardboard kind of like how IKEA does with their furniture.

mgb · « **Reply #7 on:** February 12, 2015, 10:40:28 pm »

I was holding back but I'm gonna say it...

That control panel is freakin' sexy

coyo5050 · « **Reply #8 on:** February 12, 2015, 10:52:55 pm »

Quote from: mgb on February 12, 2015, 10:40:28 pm

I was holding back but I'm gonna say it...

That control panel is freakin' sexy

You like it? I was actually thinking about changing the buttons to smoke/grey with a smoke bubbletop on the joystick. The artwork is a very light gray so I have an alternate version with the stripes a much darker grey with the middle line of each 3 stripes still the light gray. I'll upload a pic.

coyo5050 · « **Reply #9 on:** February 12, 2015, 11:04:47 pm »

The lightest color gray one is the one printed out currently. Here are 3 other versions that I am trying to decide between as my final print. I welcome opinions as well as if I should change the button color?!

mgb · « **Reply #10 on:** February 12, 2015, 11:36:29 pm »

personally i like it as is, buttons and all

yamatetsu · « **Reply #11 on:** February 13, 2015, 03:33:00 am »

I agree, the lightest color makes it pop more.

a1pharm · « **Reply #12 on:** February 13, 2015, 12:13:50 pm »

Quote from: yamatetsu on February 13, 2015, 03:33:00 am

I agree, the lightest color makes it pop more.

+1

SpaceHedgehog · « **Reply #13 on:** February 13, 2015, 12:34:12 pm »

+2

I would have said something a little more subdued if the sides had been a different colour but I feel the lightest one integrates with the rest of the cab better. Keep the buttons you have also.

coyo5050 · « **Reply #14 on:** February 13, 2015, 02:53:30 pm »

Keeping it like it is, is the cheapest and easiest way haha

I have a couple friend obsessed with golf games so might order trackball, buttons, etc to swapout and try with different colors, maybe light up buttons.

What does everyone do as far as power on/off? Do you open or go inside the cabinet to press power buttons, leave in sleep modes, or does anyone have a more elegant solution? I prefer not to leave everything on all the time and would like to figure out a solution I could easy access hidden inside the CP. My speakers have a wired remote that has power and headphone control that I will hide in the CP (not power though). I might take it apart to see if I can wire something nice looking semi hidden on the backside of the CP (drill hole hot glue a headphone connector, maybe I can wire up a spinner for the volume).

I received my LED lighting for the marquee. It has a remote and I can change colors. I also ordered some smoke plexi for the monitor to see if I like it better than clear and some blue plexi to try out for the marquee and CP and use the blue metallic paint for artwork to tie it in. I saw some people do it with blues and reds and kind of liked it.

Last question for now. I have a 2.1 speaker set up but wondering if I should put grills on the top (without speakers) so I have 4 total for cosmetics or just do it with the 2 on the bottom?

Thanks!

ZexisStryfe · « **Reply #15 on:** February 13, 2015, 02:56:00 pm »

You are doing a fantastic job for your first build! I am very partial to the Vewlix style cabinet's appearance, I just prefer my cabinets to be the standing variety.

I would also stick to the overlay you already have. The contrast really pops and that control panel looks fantastic.

Regarding the power- this cat can be skinned a few different ways:

One possibility is to get one of the smart powerstrips like the Belkin Conserve line (some even have a remote). Plug your PC into the master socket and that way when you shut down your PC, you shut down the entire unit. You could even run the power switch from your motherboard to an external switch to make it easier.

A second option would be to have an external switch which controls the power. Flipping the switch would cut the power to the whole unit. With this option you just have to make sure your PC is set to auto start on restored power (usually a BIOS setting).

As you can probably tell, I am a fan of having the switches on the outside for ease of access...

coyo5050 · « **Reply #16 on:** February 13, 2015, 04:18:21 pm »

Found some buttons like these with the option to light or not light up depending on wires I connect. I will use this and wire it to the computer MB. I am wondering if I can also bypass the power button on the monitor and attach one of these also. The monitor will be the most annoying to turn on/off. Maybe even go crazy and try and do speakers too.

JDFan · « **Reply #17 on:** February 13, 2015, 04:23:42 pm »

Quote from: coyo5050 on February 13, 2015, 04:18:21 pm

Found some buttons like these with the option to light or not light up depending on wires I connect. I will use this and wire it to the computer MB. I am wondering if I can also bypass the power button on the monitor and attach one of these also. The monitor will be the most annoying to turn on/off. Maybe even go crazy and try and do speakers too.

MAny users use a smart strip for that -- that way the PC system controls all of the other pieces ( PC power is plugged in as the main control and when it is turned on all other parts are powered on and when shut off all other parts shut down.

In fact there is a thread with a good sale on a Monster Smart strip currently for about $10 -- http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,143842.0.html

mgb · « **Reply #18 on:** February 13, 2015, 04:39:25 pm »

+1 on the smart switch.
For my cab I installed an outlet inside the cabinet. Which has a heavy duty power cord to plug into the wall outlet.
I have a Belkin smart strip plugged into the cabs outlet. My computer is the master switch device and then my monitor, speakers, marquee light, etc. all plug into the controlled outlets.
I have a master power switch at the top back of my cab to kill power to the cabs outlet because I have hear stories of smart strips wigging out so I like to have power fully killed when not in use.

I currently reach in through the coin door to hit the pc power button for startup but will be cutting in a separate power button.

Does your monitor start up automatically when power is resumed or do you have to hit power button everytime

coyo5050 · « **Reply #19 on:** February 13, 2015, 06:32:22 pm »

I have to hit power every time for the monitor unless there is a setting i can change. I did order that smartstrip linked above to try out.

jmike · « **Reply #20 on:** February 13, 2015, 06:41:33 pm »

Looking great so far. Got a link for those buttons?

coyo5050 · « **Reply #21 on:** February 13, 2015, 07:10:58 pm »

Found them on ebay. Here is the item number 301272704313. Mobile app doesnt show a link i can paste

coyo5050 · « **Reply #22 on:** February 17, 2015, 04:28:12 pm »

Nothing picture worth but I've gotten more stuff done. Been painting the panels around the display and installing the LED lighting. Had to paint a border on the plexi since I miscalculated the monitor size by 1/2 inch. Cut some panels for the back. Finalized the CP graphics using what I have now and just applying a silver gradient layer keeping the lighter color though. Now can design marquee art, side panel art. Other than that waiting on some parts to come in and need to figure out a name!

coyo5050 · « **Reply #23 on:** February 18, 2015, 04:19:57 pm »

Thinking I will stay with a classic Vewlix design for the marquee. Different models seem to be designated with 1 or 2 letters such as VS so I though I would go with Vewlix W (my initial) as a name for my cab.

Here are what I am thinking as my final artwork for the CP and marquee. Same colors as already on the CP but with the metallic gradient.

Thoughts welcome.

coyo5050 · « **Reply #24 on:** February 20, 2015, 05:39:21 pm »

Got the painting done for the front panels and the front trim so I was able to assemble it. Starting cutting the pieces to cover the back of the cabinet. My switch and greenpower power strip arrived so I can get that done.

The switch I bought is called a "vandal switch" or a" bulgin vandal switch" if anyone is curious. The one I bought is black and has a ring that glows white when powered on. I am not sure where I want to mount it yet. Once the hole is drilled I have to commit so I am procrastinating. My thoughts are on the top black piece of the CP, on the backside of the CP, on the bottom right under the monitor or around the back? Where have you guys mounted yours?

Here are some updated pics. The marquee is just the clear plexi and I am mounting the LED lights on the wood back panel behind it.

SpaceHedgehog · « **Reply #25 on:** February 21, 2015, 06:19:16 am »

It's looking really good. CP and marquee artwork suit the design/colours. Re the speaker grilles, I would go for 4 if you're still considering that

coyo5050 · « **Reply #26 on:** February 21, 2015, 01:23:27 pm »

Quote from: SpaceHedgehog on February 21, 2015, 06:19:16 am

It's looking really good. CP and marquee artwork suit the design/colours. Re the speaker grilles, I would go for 4 if you're still considering that

I prefer the 4 speakers grills. Just near impossible for find what I am looking for since I am limited in size to 4 inches (100mm) on the space I have above the monitor. Found something to order from China but they dont look nearly as nice as the ones you have. Yours are the size and style I am looking for but they are UK and I think also discontinued.

Here is basically the only thing I could find to order:

emphatic · « **Reply #27 on:** February 21, 2015, 01:46:47 pm »

The grill pictured looks like the ones I got for my old MAME cabinet. I bought mine at a second hand store/yard sale.

coyo5050 · « **Reply #28 on:** February 21, 2015, 01:55:19 pm »

Quote from: emphatic on February 21, 2015, 01:46:47 pm

The grill pictured looks like the ones I got for my old MAME cabinet. I bought mine at a second hand store/yard sale.

Is it easy to see through the mesh part? I will have computer speakers on the bottom and the top will be fake/just for looks.

SpaceHedgehog · « **Reply #29 on:** February 21, 2015, 02:47:24 pm »

These are the ones I have:

http://www.cybermarket.co.uk/shop/speaker-building/grill/monacor-sg-75-decorative-speaker-851033.html

The perforations are relatively small so I don't think it will look odd if there's nothing behind them (as in the above picture).

coyo5050 · « **Reply #30 on:** February 21, 2015, 04:42:37 pm »

Quote from: SpaceHedgehog on February 21, 2015, 02:47:24 pm

These are the ones I have:

http://www.cybermarket.co.uk/shop/speaker-building/grill/monacor-sg-75-decorative-speaker-851033.html

The perforations are relatively small so I don't think it will look odd if there's nothing behind them (as in the above picture).

108 pounds to ship to USA...um thats crazy

rablack97 · « **Reply #31 on:** February 21, 2015, 09:04:54 pm »

http://www.8linesupply.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=8line&Product_Code=iron-speaker-cover

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-Screw-car-speaker-mesh-4-inches-car-speaker-mesh-2pcs-lot/1624900221.html

mgb · « **Reply #32 on:** February 21, 2015, 10:32:33 pm »

That cab looks just as good from the back as it does from the front.
This looking great.

SpaceHedgehog · « **Reply #33 on:** February 22, 2015, 04:31:49 am »

Quote from: coyo5050 on February 21, 2015, 04:42:37 pm

Quote from: SpaceHedgehog on February 21, 2015, 02:47:24 pm
These are the ones I have:

http://www.cybermarket.co.uk/shop/speaker-building/grill/monacor-sg-75-decorative-speaker-851033.html

The perforations are relatively small so I don't think it will look odd if there's nothing behind them (as in the above picture).

108 pounds to ship to USA...um thats crazy

It is crazy! RS components (rs-online.com) sell them also from what I can see and are international so may be available. I just keep getting redirected to the UK site so can't check for sure unfortunately.

coyo5050 · « **Reply #34 on:** February 22, 2015, 02:20:42 pm »

Quote from: SpaceHedgehog on February 22, 2015, 04:31:49 am

Quote from: coyo5050 on February 21, 2015, 04:42:37 pm
Quote from: SpaceHedgehog on February 21, 2015, 02:47:24 pm
These are the ones I have:

http://www.cybermarket.co.uk/shop/speaker-building/grill/monacor-sg-75-decorative-speaker-851033.html

The perforations are relatively small so I don't think it will look odd if there's nothing behind them (as in the above picture).

108 pounds to ship to USA...um thats crazy

It is crazy! RS components (rs-online.com) sell them also from what I can see and are international so may be available. I just keep getting redirected to the UK site so can't check for sure unfortunately.

They are actually reasonable cost for shipping 15 pounds. I will have to think on it and decide how much more I like them compared to what I ordered. Thanks for the link!

coyo5050 · « **Reply #35 on:** February 22, 2015, 02:25:25 pm »

Quote from: rablack97 on February 21, 2015, 09:04:54 pm

http://www.8linesupply.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=8line&Product_Code=iron-speaker-cover

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-Screw-car-speaker-mesh-4-inches-car-speaker-mesh-2pcs-lot/1624900221.html

aargh the 4" are 139 diameter and I did a search and found 3 inch version but they are the same diameter outside, thats silly.

coyo5050 · « **Reply #36 on:** February 22, 2015, 07:06:09 pm »

Went to Fedex office to print out the marquee and for the CP. This isnt the final material, I just wanted to see how it looked printed and check to see it all fits before I spend money on the good stuff. Did change out the CP artwork in this print yet. Lady was insistent I got matte print which seems to be nothing more than color laser on slightly thicker regular paper. I wanted to go glossy for my test print. Will probably get this done on backlit material.

Got all electronics connected and working properly. Got Hyperspin set up for MAME and SNES for now. Program seems a little over-engineered but maybe with more familiarity I will appreciate the 1,000 options.

The other picture is of my belgin vandal switch momentary style. Took awhile to strip and connect wire to make it all the proper length. Switch works great just have to decide where to mount it. For those interested on how to connect it you do this:

Connect one wire from the Power SW cable to NO1 (normal open)(if you connect to NC1, normal close, the power only goes on momentary and the computer will turn on for a few secs and then turn right back off) and the other to C1 (common) and then connect the other end to computer motherboard in proper spot. Its a two wire connector but doesnt matter which wire goes to which connector as long as you have one wire going to each. Then connect power LED+ to terminal labeled + and power led- to terminal labeled - and plug those in to the proper spots on the motherboard. Make sure you connect plus to plus and neg to neg, very important.

To Do:

- print artwork on proper material for marquee and CP then install.
- finish side cabinet artwork/painting.
- Cut hole and matching plexi on top of the CP. Maybe add some other design elements like fake coin slot and those box-like things.
- Mount Belgin vandal switch.
- clean up electronic mess inside cabinet.
- finish setting up software.
- finish cutting and installing panels on back of cabinet.
- holes cut but need to attach leveling feet.
- get speaker grills, cut holes and attach.
- permanently install LED lighting for marquee and CP.

Think thats it, almost done!

Thanks for everyone's help on the forum here!!

Electronuclear · « **Reply #37 on:** February 22, 2015, 10:21:15 pm »

Looking great. I will be following your post closley as I am also doing a Vewlix style cab. I do have a couple of questions:

Where did you get your LED lighting for your marquee?

Do you have your CP hinged on anything or is it only held down by magnets?

Thanks.

coyo5050 · « **Reply #38 on:** February 23, 2015, 02:37:44 am »

Quote from: Electronuclear on February 22, 2015, 10:21:15 pm

Looking great. I will be following your post closley as I am also doing a Vewlix style cab. I do have a couple of questions:

Where did you get your LED lighting for your marquee?

Do you have your CP hinged on anything or is it only held down by magnets?

Thanks.

Lighting is LED string light I got from Amazon. You can also easily find it on ebay though almost everything seems to be shipping from China (so long ship times). 5050 300 LED RGB or something like that. There are a lot of other options and what I got is overkill for a cab but I actually got it for some under counter lighting and thought I might as well test it out. Have something similar on order to use for the cab, step down in LED power power though.

The actual full CP is attached to the rest of the cab with four 3/8 bolts with 1 1/2 diameter washers. It's not going anywhere! The top part is attached with the two magnets so I can get inside easy. The part of the CP that the buttons and stick is installed in to is such a tight fit that I have nothing else holding it down.

Make sure you also check out SpaceHedgehog's build on the forum here. He must be famous since if you type Vewlix into google its some of the first links that come up, pretty impressive ranking

If your making a Vewlix like mine I'll watch your build thread if you have questions. I learned a lot from my mistakes that looking back I would change on my build.

Billabong · « **Reply #39 on:** February 26, 2015, 10:39:43 am »

Nice job! I like the color scheme.

As a fellow NY'er I will agree this is a bad time of year for painting.


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