Custom CAB with Homemade Games

[kitvonsnookerz]

<--- Me in real life.

Up to date sketchup file V4 is the best one so far V5 was sketchy (oh the puns) so its not the one up here.


Howdy guys! My first time posting on the forums ,though I've been a long time reader. This is the cabinet ill be building after the generic one I'm building for college is done. (I don't really think the one I'm working on right now is very good so i wont be posting that!  ).

CHALLENGES:

Real challenge, huh.

How about a 4-player T-Mek or Cyber Sled knockoff with the display split into 4 triangles oriented to the associated player's POV.

Bonus points if there's a 2-player mode that divides the screen in half like a head-to-head cocktail display.


Can't believe I didn't think of this earlier -- Double Bonus points if he codes it with up to five modes:   

2-player
4-player
8-player
2-tanks with regular fwd/back treads, 4-player (1 driver, 1 turret gunner)
4-tanks with regular fwd/back treads, 8-player (1 driver, 1 turret gunner)

The last two might be easier to code as a separate game.

Scott

^---- CHALLENGE ACCEPTED BY THE PROGRAMMER


Version 2 Images
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Image 1 (A bit big so i put it in spoilers)


V3 of the machine! Give me some feedback on it people! (May 25, 2013)
[/color]

V3.5(May 28, 2013)
Changes to the Corners they've become more of attachment pieces for the entire table and firm roots to the ground as well as a place to hold wheels. For the rear projection ill be using Acrylic and transparent holographic rear projection film and thats that. The cooling system will be on one side (like suggested) along with the PC and the projector. (Couldnt show the fans because they're not in. Im dumb sry!


I need to go back through this and make it look neater....But then again this is just ideas i should make it neat when i actually build it.

V4 NEW!


Idk what i think about this. Thoughts?....


--------------------

The design is based off the Tank 8 machine i saw a long time ago and i just went crazy with the idea.
A programming buddy of mine saw me working on the first one and got so excited about it that he wanted to work on a big gigantic one and make some games to put on it. So after a lot of crazy ideas i came up with this giant box machine. Its a little over the top for a second go at making arcade machines but hey gotta dream big right?

Tell me what yal think!

[Le Chuck]

I'd use rear projection for that surface, then you should be able to get your perfect square pretty easily.  Thing is huge, what's it do again?

[opt2not]

<--- Me in real life.

Picture or bust! 

[kitvonsnookerz]

I'd use rear projection for that surface, then you should be able to get your perfect square pretty easily.  Thing is huge, what's it do again?

Ah good idea thanks just googled it! =D Buddy of mine wants to program so games for a giant arcade machine, So basically it eats souls or possible plays video games idk one of the two. I know Its a little bigger than my coffee table and about as tall as the guy who's doing the art for it. >.> I think its unnecessary they're way to excited about it.

<--- Me in real life.

Picture or bust! 

Haha no wayyyyy, I look like i should be robbing people at least i think so.

(IM SO BAD AT FORUMS CANT EVEN QUOTE >.>)

[PL1]

3.Are the button holes the right size? They look a bit big...(Using buttons and joysticks from ultimarc, love them =D)

Button holes should be 1.125" (1-1/8") for standard arcade buttons.

The joystick holes should be the same or smaller, depending on what type of stick you use.

If you do the rear projection thing, you could have an intake fan on the bottom of the cab and build some ducting to guide the air across the projector and computer, with a second fan at the exhaust vent.


Scott

[kitvonsnookerz]

3.Are the button holes the right size? They look a bit big...(Using buttons and joysticks from ultimarc, love them =D)

Button holes should be 1.125" (1-1/8") for standard arcade buttons.

The joystick holes should be the same or smaller, depending on what type of stick you use.

If you do the rear projection thing, you could have an intake fan on the bottom of the cab and build some ducting to guide the air across the projector and computer, with a second fan at the exhaust vent.


Scott

Ah my button holes are off by a bit ill have to change them! That's a way better idea then just running air through the box randomly I could actually try and get cold air from the bottom, run the ducts to cool certain spots and then push the hot air out the top maybe.

[PL1]

I could actually try and get cold air from the bottom, run the ducts to cool certain spots and then push the hot air out the top maybe.

Considering that the top is all control panel and screen, you may want to use a 45-degree mirror bottom/center so you can put the projector horizontal and centered at the bottom of one side.

This will give you a longer "throw" for the projector (=larger image) and shorter ducting for the vent if you run it out the side between players and just a few inches above the projector.

Griffindodd (now posting as Maximus) plans to use something similar for projected sideart on his Alchemy Pinball build -- the good news is that you don't need to split the reflection to display on two screens.   

I also forgot to point out something else earlier -- EIGHT PLAYERS??!!?? 

Please refer to numerous threads concerning building 4-player control panels and double (or square?) the concerns expressed.

Having players on all sides also forces you to put this in the center of the room.

The other thing that I notice is that it looks like the only reason for the canopy is to mount speakers and mag card readers.

Why not just have the mag readers on the CP/leg/front and put the speakers firing out the front panel similar to Nintendo-type cabs?


Photo from Superfrog's build used because it shows the speaker vents beautifully. 


Scott

[kitvonsnookerz]

I could actually try and get cold air from the bottom, run the ducts to cool certain spots and then push the hot air out the top maybe.

Considering that the top is all control panel and screen, you may want to use a 45-degree mirror bottom/center so you can put the projector horizontal and centered at the bottom of one side.

This will give you a longer "throw" for the projector (=larger image) and shorter ducting for the vent if you run it out the side between players and just a few inches above the projector.

Griffindodd (now posting as Maximus) plans to use something similar for projected sideart on his Alchemy Pinball build -- the good news is that you don't need to split the reflection to display on two screens.   

I also forgot to point out something else earlier -- EIGHT PLAYERS??!!?? 

Please refer to numerous threads concerning building 4-player control panels and double (or square?) the concerns expressed.

Having players on all sides also forces you to put this in the center of the room.

The other thing that I notice is that it looks like the only reason for the canopy is to mount speakers and mag card readers.

Why not just have the mag readers on the CP/leg/front and put the speakers firing out the front panel similar to Nintendo-type cabs?


Photo from Superfrog's build used because it shows the speaker vents beautifully. 


Scott

Tank 8 bro. Really want to build a cab that could do this machine plus a couple custom games 
I know it'll be in the center of the room that's the plan.
I shall have to find the cp concerns. They will be noted. 


I was thinking that the canopy could have the cooling up there too run the tubes out the corner tops of the machine. They'll also be art up there i just didn't bother with the art in the design. But then again i don't really want to build unnecessary parts the machine its self is already unnecessary and i can shuffle around the mag readers yeah. Yeahhh...im gonna take the canopy off and see how it looks ill save the one with the canopy though but i think ill like it better when its shorter.

[eds1275]

How are you going to get this into the room, not to mention the centre of one? And my second concern is getting a screen that's square and that large in this day and age. I'm all for big and crazy, but you've got to be practical about it as well. Considering the price of real estate these days you may want to reconsider the dimensions a little bit.

I wish you luck building it though! A bit ambitious but then aren't we all? Also looking forward to your homebrew games. I'm working on two myself, but haven't done any official announcements yet. I just thought we needed some new "old style" arcade games.

[shponglefan]

Wow, this is certainly an ambitious project!  I wish you luck in undertaking this!

The one thing I was wondering about is the physical size of the unit.  If it's over 4 feet square, it's not going to fit through any standard doorway.  So would it be built/assembled in the location it's going to be used in?  Or built in seperate components that can be easily disassembled/reassembled for transport?

[AGarv]

It is an interesting start, but the ergonomics probably need some work.  The vertical sides are going to make it hard to sit at, maybe even stand at.  If people are going to be leaning in over the screen, why are the speakers so high above and facing away?  I don't really see the point to the canopy structure, unless you plan to have a second screen that people look up at.

It seems as though you could accomplish this all with a pedestal type set; sort an inverted pyramid design with the screen on top.  Really, even a simple square cocktail design would work.

[kitvonsnookerz]

Thank you everyone for the very helpful feedback!    Yal got me thinking about some stuff that i totally missed!

How are you going to get this into the room, not to mention the centre of one? And my second concern is getting a screen that's square and that large in this day and age. I'm all for big and crazy, but you've got to be practical about it as well. Considering the price of real estate these days you may want to reconsider the dimensions a little bit.

I wish you luck building it though! A bit ambitious but then aren't we all? Also looking forward to your homebrew games. I'm working on two myself, but haven't done any official announcements yet. I just thought we needed some new "old style" arcade games.

Thanks for the luck! This is going to be difficult... =D I have a room to put it in this machine wont be going with me to college it ll be staying here in Houston. For the screen im looking into doing rear projection we talking about it a bit earlier i should be able to make the screen the demensions i want (Apparently i dont know too much about it still gathering information so i know the ins and outs)  Yeah im really excited to work on some games with my buddies. =D

Wow, this is certainly an ambitious project!  I wish you luck in undertaking this!

The one thing I was wondering about is the physical size of the unit.  If it's over 4 feet square, it's not going to fit through any standard doorway.  So would it be built/assembled in the location it's going to be used in?  Or built in seperate components that can be easily disassembled/reassembled for transport?

Thanks for the luck ill need it! I totally forgot to consider if i ever need to move this puppy.... On one design i did (But never built, i have a sketchbook full of these things...) of a showcase machine it came apart for easy movement i think ill have to make something like that for this maybe have the machine break into 4's? Maybe build the machine modularly because 2' 2" is plenty to fit through most doorways.

It is an interesting start, but the ergonomics probably need some work.  The vertical sides are going to make it hard to sit at, maybe even stand at.  If people are going to be leaning in over the screen, why are the speakers so high above and facing away?  I don't really see the point to the canopy structure, unless you plan to have a second screen that people look up at.

It seems as though you could accomplish this all with a pedestal type set; sort an inverted pyramid design with the screen on top.  Really, even a simple square cocktail design would work.

Yeah the canopy is gone from the actual design I haven't posted it yet because I'm still working on all the ideas i got here (Wow there is a ton btw yal are awesome) The speakers are under the CP I don't know if that's any better.  Really inverted pyramid....I like that...Ill look into it that sounds really cool looking too.
EDIT: Had to google ergonomics. Good word to know =P

Pardon my grammar everyone im trying to reply quickly so im not super worried about it.

[kitvonsnookerz]

Based on what everyone said i modified the design take a look guys!

[Le Chuck]

Duct the outflow so it vents downward from the bottom of the CP on each unit.  Probably need to use an 80mm fan to facilitate the movement.  Turn the "poorly done airvent in terrible place" into cup holder and cut it off about 6 inches down from the top so you don't have that big weird shape in every corner, then just use some quarter round in the CP.  Build each one as a separate pedestal and have them connect internally by CP latches.  The screen is on it's own frame (collapsible) and lays on the top once you hook them all together.  Use an assload of molex connectors to wire it all onto the blue unit which holds the CP.  Why the blue one?  Because it's Saturday.  Round the outside corner of all the CPs so it forms a large circle or at least a rounded square, it will look better.  Go buy some gold leaf and do some applique around the edges.  Google the Sagrada Familia and try to make this monster look like that, only retro.

[kitvonsnookerz]

Duct the outflow so it vents downward from the bottom of the CP on each unit.  Probably need to use an 80mm fan to facilitate the movement.  Turn the "poorly done airvent in terrible place" into cup holder and cut it off about 6 inches down from the top so you don't have that big weird shape in every corner, then just use some quarter round in the CP.  Build each one as a separate pedestal and have them connect internally by CP latches.  The screen is on it's own frame (collapsible) and lays on the top once you hook them all together.  Use an assload of molex connectors to wire it all onto the blue unit which holds the CP.  Why the blue one?  Because it's Saturday.  Round the outside corner of all the CPs so it forms a large circle or at least a rounded square, it will look better.  Go buy some gold leaf and do some applique around the edges.  Google the Sagrada Familia and try to make this monster look like that, only retro.

If i understand you right this is wicked creepy I've been drawing half of that already, and i have an 80mm fan that i was looking at in a tab 0.0..Legit did you just probe me?

I was thinking each color panel is modular, everything is in the panel all it needs is to be connected to the center and the whole middle is its own piece and compresses down because the core probably wont be that tall. I was going to use an idea i saw (and i cant remember where or id link) where the guy used rj45 cables to hotswap parts and i was just going to use that to connect up all the cp stuff to the core parts in the middle. I've been sitting here trying to figure out a way to connect it all together securely though cp latches are perfect. Wouldnt it be eaiser to just wire everything to the center so its neater instead of just blue? I didnt even think about the edges i was so focused on just making the concepts work.  I just dont know how ill do all that with the air duct system and where itll go when the whole machine comes apart and if the rear projection idea will fit in with this too.

Oh and wheels on the bottom. EDIT Somehow..

The cup holder though, that's sweet those are totally going to be cup holders.

Googled Sagrada Familia nothing useful came up link me? D=

EDIT: Ok so basically i propped up the machine 2 inches of the ground (It probably needed to be anyway) and vented it all down but with the inflow so low wouldnt the fans get caught up in a cycle of hot air. They're so close together.

The little black things at the bottom are the outflow the sides are in.

[PL1]

Why do you have huge intake fans at the front/bottom of every player?

You only need to cool the computer and the projector.

If you put the computer (tan) and the projector (violet) in one side, build the cooling intakes on the bottom and vents into the side since heat rises.

The projector can vent between players and the computer can vent at the corner.

If players don't like the exhaust, they can choose one of the 6 spots on the other sides.   

Two panel latches (black arrows) hold each side to the next.

The support base (white) for the mirror (gray) is locked in to three sides using four more panel latches (black arrows with red stripe).

The 45-degree mirror (gray) pivots on the heavy line and a turnbuckle on the left side (black circle) allows you to adjust the angle -- once the projector and mirror are properly aligned, the yellow side can be connected.

You will probably want to have the wiring plug-in receptacles in the green side.

If you move the cab, the connecting cables from the other three sides can unplug from the green side.

Consider using parallel port cables instead of RJ-45's since each player will need:
8 - 2 joysticks
3 - 3 buttons
1 - Start (?)
--
12 * 2 players per side = 24 inputs

Add one ground wire and you have 25 conductors.

Also how do the mag strip readers figure into the plan?


Scott

[kitvonsnookerz]

Why do you have huge intake fans at the front/bottom of every player?

You only need to cool the computer and the projector.

If you put the computer (tan) and the projector (violet) in one side, you can build all needed cooling intakes and vents into that side.

The projector can vent between players and the computer can vent at the corner.

Two panel latches (black arrows) hold each side to the next.

The support base (white) for the mirror (gray) is locked in to three sides using four more panel latches (black arrows with red stripe).

The 45-degree mirror (gray) pivots on the heavy line and a turnbuckle on the left side (black circle) allows you to adjust the angle -- once the projector and mirror are properly aligned, the yellow side can be connected.

You will probably want to have the wiring plug-in receptacles in the green side.

If you move the cab, the connecting cables from the other three sides can unplug from the green side.

Consider using parallel port cables instead of RJ-45's since each player will need:
8 - 2 joysticks
3 - 3 buttons
1 - Start (?)
--
12 * 2 players per side = 24 inputs

Add one ground wire and you have 25 conductors.

Also how do the mag strip readers figure into the plan?


Scott

Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh. Pictures make everything clearer. Ok I understand. Since it was a closed off box i thought it would get a lot hotter but thats only if everythings in the center if its all on the green side thats much better. Doh, wish I'd thought of that. The guy whos doing the software wants to do something like at Main Event (Idk if those are outside of Houston) where you swipe the card and thats basically like putting in a quarter that's why their is no start button that is the start button. (Probably still need a start button though)  Also take it a step further every card has like player profiles.
Hes this computer science major crazy programing nut spends his time programming basicially day and night no exageration... much better at his job than i am i feel like I'm just copying ideas i get from yal now =P

Also i think i fully get rear projection now from that picture the internet was a bit more confusion then it needed to be.

[PL1]

i feel like I'm just copying ideas i get from yal now =P

We were just trying to mention some pitfalls and proven methods so you wouldn't have to reinvent the wheel.

You still have the hardest parts of this design and build ahead.

Also i think i fully get rear projection now from that picture the internet was a bit more confusion then it needed to be.

The real fun comes when you try to get everything in the correct position and alignment in 3-dimensional space -- vertical and horizontal keystone adjustment capability on the projector is your friend.


Scott

P.S. I'm finally done re-editing my earlier post.   

[kitvonsnookerz]

i feel like I'm just copying ideas i get from yal now =P

We were just trying to mention some pitfalls and proven methods so you wouldn't have to reinvent the wheel.

You still have the hardest parts of this design and build ahead.

Also i think i fully get rear projection now from that picture the internet was a bit more confusion then it needed to be.

The real fun comes when you try to get everything in the correct position and alignment in 3-dimensional space -- vertical and horizontal keystone adjustment capability on the projector is your friend.


Scott

P.S. I'm finally done re-editing my earlier post.   

And its really helpful, haha dont take it the wrong way yals help has been seriously invaluable keep it coming 
Rear projection now sounds terrifying.
Wait which earlier post? =0

[PL1]

Rear projection now sounds terrifying.

Nothing to be afraid of, just mentioning a feature that makes it easier to adjust the "3-dimensional bank shot" off the mirror. 

You'll want to test the geometry with the projector, the mirror, a white sheet (or underside of a card table) to project onto, and some stacks of books before you build the actual enclosure.

This is probably the first step to tackle since the combination of projector, mirror size, and throw distance determines the size of the projected image.

Wait which earlier post? =0

#15 from this thread.

On the 15th (?) edit, I clarified the part at the top about venting.

It probably got lost in my  .   


Scott

[kitvonsnookerz]

Rear projection now sounds terrifying.

Nothing to be afraid of, just mentioning a feature that makes it easier to adjust the "3-dimensional bank shot" off the mirror. 

You'll want to test the geometry with the projector, the mirror, a white sheet (or underside of a card table) to project onto, and some stacks of books before you build the actual enclosure.

This is probably the first step to tackle since the combination of projector, mirror size, and throw distance determines the size of the projected image.

Wait which earlier post? =0

#15 from this thread.

I clarified the part at the top about venting.

It probably got lost in my  .   


Scott

Swag OH and it is different a bit clearer =P I may or may no of skimmed and gotten the general giest the first time  BUT WE GOOD I READ IT THIS TIME =D  Not blah btw useful info!
AND
a good idea with the temp build before actually making the thing. Dont want to get there and have the wrong well...everything. Hence why im doing this design to thoroughly before i dive right in. 

[BadMouth]

Awesome.

That is all.

[kitvonsnookerz]

Awesome.

That is all.

OH! Well thank you very much =D It still needs alot of work but still tanks (Haha the puns...)

[Chris John Hunter]

I know I am being dumb here  but what is it?
 Is it a sit at 4 player arcade machine with a massive screen flat in the middle. Which won't work because someone wont be able to see the screen properly. Or are you putting 4 large flat monitors in those gaps and having some serious computing system running behind it for 4 player quake type FPS. Everytime I look I think of something else. 

Whats it meant to be?
 

Right, just seen the Tank 8 clip. I know now. But your mate who's coding the game will update it I hope considering the complexity of the cab ? How bout a Geometry Wars type game. With all the colour and sounds I am sure it would look awesome on a setup like this.


Ooooh! GOT IT! SMASH TV 4 player type game would be absolutely the dogs bollocks

[mcseforsale]

subscribed.

AJ

[kitvonsnookerz]

Right, just seen the Tank 8 clip. I know now. But your mate who's coding the game will update it I hope considering the complexity of the cab ? How bout a Geometry Wars type game. With all the colour and sounds I am sure it would look awesome on a setup like this.

Ooooh! GOT IT! SMASH TV 4 player type game would be absolutely the dogs bollocks

Haha nice you got it =D And we are planing on making a game like that along with a buch of other games that go along with this type of cab. He understands the complexities i just asked him.  He asked me when Im going to give him a real challenge (Cocky basterd =P). Trust me we've been brain storming the types of games we can do its actually quite a nice list.

• Turn based Strategy Games
  Arena Style (Kinda like MOBA but without minions and towers just an arena and heroes fight)
  Board Games (PLUS mario party type games)
  Trivia
  Zombie Defense (I swear it works =P)
  Top Down Shooters
  Something Monaco-esq
  Super Smash Brothers style games (I SWEAR IT WORKS =D)

More to come when we think of it right now he wants to do something like Pokemon Stadium except top down and obviously not pokemon. It was his idea =P Hes excited.

EDIT. OH AND if you do two tables that opens up the ability to do fog of war plus at 8 more players. Yeah. It just got real in here.

subscribed.
AJ

Swag now i have to keep working and update frequently =P Curses!

[PL1]

He asked me when Im going to give him a real challenge (Cocky basterd =P).

Real challenge, huh.

How about a 4-player T-Mek or Cyber Sled knockoff with the display split into 4 triangles oriented to the associated player's POV.

 

That should give him something to chew on.   


Scott

[eds1275]

What are you using to make your games? Anything started? Are you talking 2d or 3d games? I have used both YoYoGames GameMaker and now I've moved onto Unity. Some amazing tools we have in this day and age. Here's a screeny from one of mine!

[kitvonsnookerz]

Real challenge, huh.

How about a 4-player T-Mek or Cyber Sled knockoff with the display split into 4 triangles oriented to the associated player's POV.

 

That should give him something to chew on.   


Scott

You could do them if you wouldn't mind the knock off being top down =P But idk about the triangles I'm just the builder! He might enjoy the challenge though. I'll relay it to him.

Super Edit: Both those games look really cool =D I want.

What are you using to make your games? Anything started? Are you talking 2d or 3d games? I have used both YoYoGames GameMaker and now I've moved onto Unity. Some amazing tools we have in this day and age. Here's a screeny from one of mine!

2D Most likely maybe 3D graphics on a 2D plane (If that makes sense) but probably 2D. My bud might use Java but i think hes bored of it, probably C++ or something, hes pretty interested in Unity but its basically java script so. He like to do it all from scratch I think it would be faster if he just used an engine like unity. It really his thing though i just built the machines =P

[PL1]

You could do them if you wouldn't mind the knock off being top down =P But idk about the triangles I'm just the builder! He might enjoy the challenge though. I'll relay it to him.

This is a crude mockup of the "triangles" display format I was talking about.

Bonus points if there's a 2-player mode that divides the screen in half like a head-to-head cocktail display.


Scott

[kitvonsnookerz]

You could do them if you wouldn't mind the knock off being top down =P But idk about the triangles I'm just the builder! He might enjoy the challenge though. I'll relay it to him.

This is a crude mockup of the "triangles" display format I was talking about.

Bonus points if there's a 2-player mode that divides the screen in half like a head-to-head cocktail display.


Scott

Oh baby jesus. I'm going to have to ask him on that one i dot know if i can commit him to that cause that sounds difficult as hell even to me  I'll have to get back to ya if he takes that challenge =P

EDIT: He says hes got this. CHALLENGE ACCEPTED 

[PL1]

Good luck to him.

Can't believe I didn't think of this earlier -- Double Bonus points if he codes it with up to five modes:   

2-player
4-player
8-player
2-tanks with regular fwd/back treads, 4-player (1 driver, 1 turret gunner)
4-tanks with regular fwd/back treads, 8-player (1 driver, 1 turret gunner)

The last two might be easier to code as a separate game.


Scott

[kitvonsnookerz]

Good luck to him.

Can't believe I didn't think of this earlier -- Double Bonus points if he codes it with up to five modes:   

2-player
4-player
8-player
2-tanks with regular fwd/back treads, 4-player (1 driver, 1 turret gunner)
4-tanks with regular fwd/back treads, 8-player (1 driver, 1 turret gunner)

The last two might be easier to code as a separate game.


Scott

I wanted to do a game like that where someone drives and someone shoots or some form of two player co-op games because of how the cab is setup you can easily slap your partner when they mess up.

[Malenko]

as for the cab itself, why not 2 cabs that are 4 players each linked?

[kitvonsnookerz]

as for the cab itself, why not 2 cabs that are 4 players each linked?

That would be too easy! Also not what i want to do =P

orignally this is for top down games all the other ideas coming in will maybe be done =P

[kitvonsnookerz]

Howdy guys new model addition. Im calling it V4. Thoughts please!

[PL1]

Boxy right angles WILL cause airflow problems.

Long duct lengths decrease airflow efficiency.

Current exhaust placement is centered on the orange player instead of between the orange and red players. (See pic)

Separate cooling paths for projector and computer will probably be shorter and more efficient.

Computer can be placed closer to the corner and vented at the corner.

Protip: Specific placement of projector intake and exhaust vents depends on the actual projector model used and where it will be mounted.  It's a waste of time trying to plan for cooling without knowing exactly what projector you will be using and building the 3-D mockup.  Once you have built the mockup, any necessary design changes will be easier to identify.

You are planning to build each corner as a fixed part of one of the adjoining sides -- red + orange + white = one solid assembly, yellow + purple + white = one solid assembly, etc., right? (Sketchup makes it look like 12 assemblies - 8 player assemblies + 4 corner assemblies)


Scott

[kitvonsnookerz]

Boxy right angles WILL cause airflow problems.

Long duct lengths decrease airflow efficiency.

Current exhaust placement is centered on the orange player instead of between the orange and red players. (See pic)

Separate cooling paths for projector and computer will probably be shorter and more efficient.

Computer can be placed closer to the corner and vented at the corner.

Protip: Specific placement of projector intake and exhaust vents depends on the actual projector model used and where it will be mounted.  It's a waste of time trying to plan for cooling without knowing exactly what projector you will be using and building the 3-D mockup.  Once you have built the mockup, any necessary design changes will be easier to identify.

You are planning to build each corner as a fixed part of one of the adjoining sides -- red + orange + white = one solid assembly, yellow + purple + white = one solid assembly, etc., right? (Sketchup makes it look like 12 assemblies - 8 player assemblies + 4 corner assemblies)


Scott

Yeah i know i just hadn't found the round edges plugin yet i found it a bit after i posted that. I was talking to a family friend who works with projectors and saw the design he said the same thing about the cooling that i should wait because he might have a projector for me. I will be splitting the cooling paths though that's a better idea doh so simple wish id thought of it.  And why did i put exhaust between orange players legs that just irritating..I would like hate that. =(

As for the computer and the current design i forgot to include that i wanted to deviate from the picture a bit. I wanted to do each panel as a separate part. It shouldn't really change the picture too much. The Projector does need to be in that same general area though but yeah i really just need more information on what I'm working with which i should get sometime this week. I should still be able to cool from the corner but i was going to use the corner pieces as just support besides that. I also wanted to switch to using DB-25 or HD15 Cables for each panel, 25 is just in case i need to expand but probably just gonna use 15. The problem i run into is that i wanted the computers case and the projector to be detachable and i don't know exactly how to do that.

I didn't really see the benefit of having 4 giant parts if its difficult to get them through doors if its 8 parts the panels are only a foot 10 inches. The Other parts are kinda gigantic.

[PL1]

The problem i run into is that i wanted the computers case and the projector to be detachable and i don't know exactly how to do that.

Having the computer case detachable for transport is very easy with pipe strapping, but not absolutely necessary.



You might want a color coded/labeled patch panel to connect the DB-25/HD-15 cables from the other 6 players to your encoders.

For the projector, drill/route ~1/4" divots for the feet -- gravity does the rest until you want to take it apart for transport.

I didn't really see the benefit of having 4 giant parts if its difficult to get them through doors if its 8 parts the panels are only a foot 10 inches. The Other parts are kinda gigantic.

How often do you plan to move this cab?   

The more pieces it breaks down into, the more latches you need and the higher the odds that something will get out of alignment.

The 4 side + mirror base diagram I posted above is the best balance of solid construction and breakdown/mobility IMHO.

All you need to easily move the sides through a door is a $17 mover's dolly.


It should be no more difficult than moving a 60" x 16" 3-shelf bookcase -- reasonably easy for 2 people to move, manageable for 1 person.

The 4' x 4' wheeled(?) base should be easy to move if you make the mirror removable.


Scott

[kitvonsnookerz]

How often do you plan to move this cab?   

The more pieces it breaks down into, the more latches you need and the higher the odds that something will get out of alignment.

The 4 side + mirror base diagram I posted above is the best balance of solid construction and breakdown/mobility IMHO.

All you need to easily move the sides through a door is a $17 mover's dolly.


It should be no more difficult than moving a 60" x 16" 3-shelf bookcase -- reasonably easy for 2 people to move, manageable for 1 person.

The 4' x 4' wheeled(?) base should be easy to move if you make the mirror removable.


Scott

Considering the place i wanted to put it is up in the air now (My mother is starting to not like anything about this project, why cant people just love arcade machines properly  ) I actually might be moving it a bit more than i thought. At the same time the construction needs to probably be a bit more solid and yeah things could get out of line.
Plus i secretly want to be able to connect the individual cps to any other projects i do kinda like interchangeable parts and the randomly protruding side would be like wat.
^--Perhaps this is a bit of a crazy idea.

Oh and i have a dolly i like to use it as a skate board sometimes :3