Self Propelled Automatic "Bartop Arcade" Extrusion Machine (or, my CNC build)

[Typefighter01]

On to the arcade related portion of this build...

For those of you who might not have checked out the link below of the bartop I built for my godson, here are a few pics:






As I explained in the bartop thread, I tried to keep all the panels smaller than 11" x 17" so that I could print and apply my own artwork. So what I am doing now is attempting to recreate it on the CNC. I of course don't have it any more, but I did scan the pieces into my computer so I could make templates for the artwork, so I traced and saved my original Inkscape .svg templates into a .dfx file and imported them into Artcam. Then I created toolpaths and sent them to Mach, and here is a pic of the completed cut on the Mach 3 screen and a pencil outline drawn onto machine bed (it is not centred as I held the pencil against the dust shoe as it ran the program, but it does make the cut inside the cutting area).





I have lots of wood for testing, but I don't have a good cutting bit, so that is next...

[Slippyblade]

Neat design, very unique!

[Typefighter01]

Neat design, very unique!

Thanks Slippy...you still building a 40K themed arcade cab? The QC rep that sits across from me at work is an avid Warhammer and War machine player, so I am getting the itch to make my own Warhammer themed bartop. Do you mind if I use the black and white art I sent you?

[Slippyblade]

It's on the docket, but not getting built any time soon.  Older kid just moved out and I'm in the process of slowly turning his bedroom into my new cave.     So a pedestal is my next build actually. 

Not my art man, knock yourself out!

[Yvan256]

it is not centred as I held the pencil against the dust shoe as it ran the program, but it does make the cut inside the cutting area.



I have lots of wood for testing, but I don't have a good cutting bit, so that is next...

... did you trace directly on the spoilboard? 

[Typefighter01]

... did you trace directly on the spoilboard? 

Of course, I was trying to spoil it, looks like I succeeded 

Just used pencil, so it actually erases off, so I am not too woried about it. I was thinking about knocking down a few ridges with some 400 grit on a sanding block and then rolling on a couple of coats of clear poly, we will see.

I think before I buy some cutting bits, I need to take care of a few items...

1. The table frame is metal and the table top is bullet proof, but due to the weight of the table sitting 3' in the air on long thin metal legs the tabletop and machine actually move quite a bit while cutting. I need to either add some angular braces tying each corner together and/or box the sides in with a few move sheets of melamine.

2.Dust collector worked quite well when I surfaced the table top, but when I stuck my head under the machine last night, I noticed dust had slipped through the sides of the dust bag (where it slips over and gets clamped) and started to make a little pile beside the computer. I will add another clamp and maybe a strip of tuck tape to keep it sealed.

3.Need to develop a hold down system for the material I am cutting. My simple short term (cheap) plan is to drill and screw in some 1/4" x 20 nutserts every 4" to 6" on the outside perimiter of spoil boad (not drilled from the top, but inserted 90 degrees, horizontally, into spoilboard sides). Then cut two, 30" x 1 1/4" and two, 24" x 1 1/4" furring strips or "vice jaws" that the bolts go through. This way, I can take 1 sheet of the 30" x 72" white melamine shelving I like to use, cut it into 3 equal pieces, center the cut piece exactly ontop of machine bed and then tighten up the strips so they capture the material on all four sides like a vice and since they are clamped from the side, they will keep clear of the dust shoe. Should work a treat...

Stay tuned 

[Yvan256]

Just used pencil, so it actually erases off, so I am not too woried about it. I was thinking about knocking down a few ridges with some 400 grit on a sanding block and then rolling on a couple of coats of clear poly, we will see.

The spoilboard is meant to be cut into, don't bother with sanding or anything. Install the spoilboard, cut about 1~2mm of the surface to level it, done. Unless you're talking about something else?

2.Dust collector worked quite well when I surfaced the table top, but when I stuck my head under the machine last night, I noticed dust had slipped through the sides of the dust bag (where it slips over and gets clamped) and started to make a little pile beside the computer. I will add another clamp and maybe a strip of tuck tape to keep it sealed.

Be careful with dust, especially MDF/HDF dust. That stuff is very toxic, bad for your lungs, etc. Myself, I use my house vacuum because it has three levels of EPA filters in it.

3.Need to develop a hold down system for the material I am cutting. My simple short term (cheap) plan is to drill and screw in some 1/4" x 20 nutserts every 4" to 6" on the outside perimiter of spoil boad (not drilled from the top, but inserted 90 degrees, horizontally, into spoilboard sides). Then cut two, 30" x 1 1/4" and two, 24" x 1 1/4" furring strips or "vice jaws" that the bolts go through. This way, I can take 1 sheet of the 30" x 72" white melamine shelving I like to use, cut it into 3 equal pieces, center the cut piece exactly ontop of machine bed and then tighten up the strips so they capture the material on all four sides like a vice and since they are clamped from the side, they will keep clear of the dust shoe. Should work a treat...

Stay tuned 

I'm not sure about using the side of MDF to hold anything, not to mention that you're going to replace the spoilboard sooner or later, something external to it or much simpler should be used. IMHO, of course.

Me, I just cut T-nut slots directly into it. 

[Typefighter01]

The spoilboard is meant to be cut into, don't bother with sanding or anything. Install the spoilboard, cut about 1~2mm of the surface to level it, done. Unless you're talking about something else?

No, I'm not talking about something else. I already resurfaced the spoil board, so it is currently level and true. In an effort to not keep resurfacing it and then ultimately replacing it, I will lay a sacrificial piece of MDF on top of spoil board and then lay my cutting material on top of it. Since I am (at least in the short term anyway) only going to cut one design on this thing, I will only need three different sacrificial layers to sit on spoil board and when I cut all the way through the finished material, it will leave a 1/64" groove on the template. This way I cam match template to which ever program I am running.

But, in answering your question, you have given me a good idea. Instead of doing the nutsert thing, I will determine where on the templates my cutting bit will not travel (waste area) and then I will just drill through template and into spoil board in 4 different spots, and glue some dowels into the template. This way, if I am cutting program 1, for example, all I need to do is drop template #1 on top of spoil board and it will lock it self in place with the dowels and then I can screw my finished cutting material into it. Glad your following along buddy  .

My short term goal for this machine won't support using T slots as all three programs I plan to run use every inch of cutting surface.

Be careful with dust, especially MDF/HDF dust. That stuff is very toxic, bad for your lungs, etc. Myself, I use my house vacuum because it has three levels of EPA filters in it.

Agreed...

I first need to curb the dust leaks, and then I have an idea that might tie into me adding some sides to the table and then boxing in the dust bag portion of dust collector with good quality furnace filters. Either way, my wife bought me a good quality respirator that I need to get into the habit of using.

I appreciate the concerns and suggestions...

[Yvan256]

Just for laugh, I think I'll send you a part of CNC64 so that you can cut it on your machine, to compare times with my old Roland MDX-3. I'm betting your machine is at least 10 000 times faster. 

Have you cut any parts yet? If I send you a part made in Sketchup, can you do anything with that?

[Typefighter01]

Send me any file you got (sketch-up/ the G-Code/ a picture of the piece with dimensions). Never used Sketchup, but send it my way anyway.

[Yvan256]

I included the measurements for the plates, however the "nut pocket" for plate #3 is a bit hard to describe since it's something I calculated manually with the routing bit diameter I have here. If you have a program that can convert Sketchup objects to outlines, that should do all the work automatically.

The material I'm using is 3/8" MDF, but you could try in 3/8" HDF or 3/8" plywood too. 

The router bit I'm using isn't listed on their website, but it's available at Canadian Tire. It's the Renegade Pro, 1/8" double flute straight bit, RR005. If I remember correctly, it's around 10$.

Note that the sticker on the plastic package says double flute but the bit is actually single flute. 

Since you're new to Sketchup, I've included a few "animation scenes" in the Sketchup model, clicking on those will change the view of the parts to better see some measurements.

If you do cut the parts, please make a video.   

If one were to only use the simplest "J22" part (the one on the left), sixteen of those plates are required for each CNC64 build. Otherwise, eight "J22B" and eight "J22N".

[Yvan256]

I guess Typefighter01's too busy playing with his new toy. 

[Typefighter01]

I guess Typefighter01's too busy playing with his new toy. 

I wish 

Work is just a nightmare right now (it will be a bad dream until March 2015, but that's a different story), and we have granite counter tops coming next week and I have to finish up some cabinet and dishwasher items before they can install them.

I downloaded the file and downloaded Sketchup, but I couldn't seem to export it to a file that Artcam would open, I did export it to Inkscape as a PNG, but that's not a really accurate way of doing it.

Considering how simple J22 is, I will probably just create it inside Artcam from scratch using the dimensions from the Sketchup file, should only take me 15min or so. Might be a week before I can "play" again.

[Yvan256]

Considering how simple J22 is, I will probably just create it inside Artcam from scratch using the dimensions from the Sketchup file, should only take me 15min or so. Might be a week before I can "play" again.

Can you try with J22B, pretty please? /Puss-in-Boots-innocent-gaze

[Typefighter01]

Quick update...

Machine is up and running and I am helping Yavan do some G-Code testing. Just picked up 2 end mills, a 1/8" bit for Yvan's testing and a 1/4" for me to start cutting my bartops. I will make videos of both Yvans test cuts and my bartop cutting once complete.

[macattack]

Ends mills don't work so well, get yourself some up cut spiral or a compression router bits.


Www.xtremepinball.com

[Typefighter01]

I described them incorrectly, they are Up-cut Spiral bits. I will buy a 1/4" compression bit once I am ready to start cutting melamine or laminate. Sorry for the confusion...

[Yvan256]

Machine is up and running and I am helping Yavan Yvan do some G-Code testing. Just picked up 2 end mills, a 1/8" bit for Yvan's testing and a 1/4" for me to start cutting my bartops. I will make videos of both Yvan's test cuts and my bartop cutting once complete.

Do you have calipers? Can you tell me the thickness of the material you plan to use with the 1/8 bit?

Do you have any part of yours that you want to cut? If it's simple enough (holes, pockets, rectangle with or without rounded corners), I could make you a file for that. FYI, the radius of the rounded corners aren't calculated correctly so it might end up plus or minus the radius of the milling bit, so only ask for rounded corners if it's for aesthetic purposes. ;-)

As for the 1/8" bit, what's the cutting length, i.e. how deep can it cut?

[Typefighter01]

 

[Typefighter01]

 

[Yvan256]

48x35mm with 6.4mm pockets, that's exactly what it should be!   

Thank you very much for testing! Did you have any trouble setting it up? How long did it take?

[Typefighter01]

Thank you very much for testing! Did you have any trouble setting it up? How long did it take?

No trouble setting it up at all.

 I know you frowned on my suggestion of double sided tape, so what I ended up using was an adhesive tile mat that is meant for setting tiles on backsplashes. It worked perfect, but it would be too expensive to use all the time. Worked great for this test and will work in a pinch for other small jobs.

It took the full 24min as tested before.

The tabs look short in pics, but the first mm of cut was just air (just to be safe, I set the bit a mm above work piece as this was technically my first time cutting an actual part). Pretty sure they would hold the part securely, especially since they are positioned on all four sides.

I would like to generate code for my bartop using your program? How long until it is ready for end user testing?

[Yvan256]

It took the full 24min as tested before.

I still think that's way too long, considering you have a solid CNC machine made of metal and a powerful router connected to it.

Maybe I forgot to change the cutting depth before creating the file? A small plate like this shouldn't take more than around five minutes for your machine.

I could create a "cutting depth testing" file, which would cut the same part many times with variance in the cutting depth, and you could compare the result and cutting finish between all parts.

The tabs look short in pics, but the first mm of cut was just air (just to be safe, I set the bit a mm above work piece as this was technically my first time cutting an actual part). Pretty sure they would hold the part securely, especially since they are positioned on all four sides.

I plan on re-coding the tabs so that they're full-height (1mm) with no ramping effect, so they'll be much stronger in the next update.

I would like to generate code for my bartop using your program? How long until it is ready for end user testing?

I haven't even begun to start designing any user interface apart from cutting and viewing options, the actual CAD part is still done via PHP code, calling pre-made CAD functions. It could end up as an easy-to-use CAD coding program though, I'm still not sure. A bit like BBCode vs HTML+CSS.

The easiest way for now would be for you to send me your part(s) in Sketchup, done in 1:1 scale.

[Typefighter01]

So, I have a very specific set of cuts I want this little machine to make, and it entails me using the entire cutting surface. Using traditional T-slot table top won't cut it as the material I am cutting will cover the entire surface leaving me nothing to bolt to table top as a hold down system. Since money is tight, I thought about just using cheap wood clamps, but no matter which clamps I looked at (though cheap and affordable), they didn't really fit the bill. As I was cruising around the Busy Bee website last week, looking into some extra dust control items like a cyclone, I took a look in their clamp section and stumbled on these guys http://www.busybeetools.com/products/STRAIGHT-EDGE-CLAMP-36IN.-PRO-GRIP.html .

I thought to myself, this type of clamp, mounted upside down, flush with table top, would work perfect. Guess what...it does  .

So I picked up the 36" clamp (there are 24", 36" and 50" clamps available) and set out on routing a channel for it to lay in ("it", as in one, I need two, but I am broke  ). As you can see in pics, it is going to work perfect. I just need to clean up the channel a little bit more as the clamp is sitting about 2mm proud of table top and if anything I want it sitting a few mm's lower. I then just need to break it apart, screw it to top and reassemble it. The beauty of the clamp is even though it does not increase the cutting area of the table, 24" x 30", it does allow me to hold material greater than this. So I can now hold down material that is 28" x 36", and if I wanted to, I could step up to the 50" clamp, increasing the length by another 14".

I am going to pick up the other clamp and some screws on my way home next Friday, so I will finish both clamps and post more pics then.

EDIT:Thought I would just add, another reason for this type of hold down for me is the way my dust shoe works. I need something that will lay flat, below the material I am cutting, and this will work well.

[Yvan256]

I don't want to be Buzz Killington, but I'm not sure this type of clamp will strongly hold the material down against the spoilboard. 

Maybe other CNC users with more experience would like to comment?

[Typefighter01]

The clamp ends have holes to screw on deeper jaws. If I find the cutting material is lifting, i will fabricate small "L" brackets that actually capture the top of material making it impossible for it to lift. Its a good observation Mr.Killington and I might just modify clamp ends before I even try using them as is.

[Yvan256]

The clamp ends have holes to screw on deeper jaws. If I find the cutting material is lifting, i will fabricate small "L" brackets that actually capture the top of material making it impossible for it to lift. Its a good observation Mr.Killington and I might just modify clamp ends before I even try using them as is.

I don't want to sound like Captain Obvious here, but make sure the "L" brackets and screw heads have enough clearance under the dust shoe before cutting anything.

Also, is there something I can test with my CAD? Got a Sketchup file to cut?

[Typefighter01]

The clamp ends have holes to screw on deeper jaws. If I find the cutting material is lifting, i will fabricate small "L" brackets that actually capture the top of material making it impossible for it to lift. Its a good observation Mr.Killington and I might just modify clamp ends before I even try using them as is.

I don't want to sound like Captain Obvious here, but make sure the "L" brackets and screw heads have enough clearance under the dust shoe before cutting anything.

Also, is there something I can test with my CAD? Got a Sketchup file to cut?

Sorry Yvan, no Sketchup files just yet. I have next week off, and I would like to cut out a test cab by the end of that week, so if I get a minute, I will try to send you something this week.

Does it have to be Sketchup? I am proficient using Inkscape, and I can save it in a few different formats. Let me know if there is a different file type I could send you. EIther way, I will play with Sketchup when I get a minute as it would be handy to know.

Also Captain, just for a proof of concept, I quickly mocked up my thoughts on improving the clamps with a spare "L" bracket I had lying around. Please ignore the quality control, I just threw it together to give an idea of how it would work. I would more than likely use the extruded aluminum "L" channel you can pick up at Homedepot as the inside of channel is perfectly square and I could cut them to be 4" or 5" long to really hold on to material.

[Yvan256]

Sorry Yvan, no Sketchup files just yet. I have next week off, and I would like to cut out a test cab by the end of that week, so if I get a minute, I will try to send you something this week.

Does it have to be Sketchup? I am proficient using Inkscape, and I can save it in a few different formats. Let me know if there is a different file type I could send you. EIther way, I will play with Sketchup when I get a minute as it would be handy to know.

If it's not something that I need to trace manually (i.e. if the part is all rectangles and circles, holes and pockets or simple with 90/270 degrees angles) then all I need is a drawing with measurements. Also make sure to tell me the exact thickness of the material you want to cut in millimeters (you have digital calipers, right?), and if you will have a spoilboard underneath your sheet or not.

edit: thread about importing Inkscape into SketchUp.

Also Captain, just for a proof of concept, I quickly mocked up my thoughts on improving the clamps with a spare "L" bracket I had lying around. Please ignore the quality control, I just threw it together to give an idea of how it would work. I would more than likely use the extruded aluminum "L" channel you can pick up at Homedepot as the inside of channel is perfectly square and I could cut them to be 4" or 5" long to really hold on to material.

If it's a fixed bracket, it means there will be no means of "pressing down" on the material, and no ability to adjust to different thicknesses which can vary even from one side of a sheet to another.

I think it would be better to just press down on the sheet before pushing the side clamps. But I would attach some kind of dented/spiked plates to the clamps to hold the sheet in place, flat plastic will let it slide.

[Typefighter01]

Also Captain, just for a proof of concept, I quickly mocked up my thoughts on improving the clamps with a spare "L" bracket I had lying around. Please ignore the quality control, I just threw it together to give an idea of how it would work. I would more than likely use the extruded aluminum "L" channel you can pick up at Homedepot as the inside of channel is perfectly square and I could cut them to be 4" or 5" long to really hold on to material.

If it's a fixed bracket, it means there will be no means of "pressing down" on the material, and no ability to adjust to different thicknesses which can vary even from one side of a sheet to another.

I think it would be better to just press down on the sheet before pushing the side clamps. But I would attach some kind of dented/spiked plates to the clamps to hold the sheet in place, flat plastic will let it slide.

Finished up the clamps today and tested with Yvan's J22 test code (see pics below). I bought a dial indicator to measure any deflection in the material while cutting and I didn't even need to test as there is no movement what so ever, it is securely locked in place. There was a few thou's worth of play in the clamps before I installed them, but tightening them down to the spoil board pulled the sides in a little taking out all the play with it. I think this clamp solution will work just fine for cutting sheet stock.

@Yvan-I used my 1/4" upcut spiral bit instead of the 1/8" just to try and move material, in case you were wondering why J22 looked out of whack...

Sorry Yvan, no Sketchup files just yet. I have next week off, and I would like to cut out a test cab by the end of that week, so if I get a minute, I will try to send you something this week.

Does it have to be Sketchup? I am proficient using Inkscape, and I can save it in a few different formats. Let me know if there is a different file type I could send you. EIther way, I will play with Sketchup when I get a minute as it would be handy to know.

If it's not something that I need to trace manually (i.e. if the part is all rectangles and circles, holes and pockets or simple with 90/270 degrees angles) then all I need is a drawing with measurements. Also make sure to tell me the exact thickness of the material you want to cut in millimeters (you have digital calipers, right?), and if you will have a spoilboard underneath your sheet or not.

edit: thread about importing Inkscape into SketchUp.

Just noticed your link to importing Inkscape into SketchUp, so I tried it and I don't see an option to import in SketchUp 8, but I am pretty sure I will find it under SketchUp 2014, only problem is, I need to upgrade from Snow Leopard 10.6.7 to 10.6.8 and it is a 1.01GB update and I am precariously close to busting through my download limit this month. I am pretty sure I can recreate it in SketchUp 8, I will work on it tonight and tomorrow and see how I end up.

[Yvan256]

Finished up the clamps today and tested with Yvan's J22 test code ... there is no movement what so ever, it is securely locked in place. ... This clamp solution will work just fine for cutting sheet stock.

Glad to hear it!

@Yvan-I used my 1/4" upcut spiral bit instead of the 1/8" just to try and move material, in case you were wondering why J22 looked out of whack...

Excellent idea.

Just noticed your link to importing Inkscape into SketchUp, so I tried it and I don't see an option to import in SketchUp 8, but I am pretty sure I will find it under SketchUp 2014, only problem is, I need to upgrade from Snow Leopard 10.6.7 to 10.6.8 and it is a 1.01GB update and I am precariously close to busting through my download limit this month. I am pretty sure I can recreate it in SketchUp 8, I will work on it tonight and tomorrow and see how I end up.

No, the option is to export from Inkscape into another format that Sketchup will be able to import. I'm still using Sketchup 8 too. And if your Mac is old-ish, stay on Snow Leopard, or at least do go further than Mountain Lion. Mavericks on my Core 2 Duo 2.4GHz with 8GB is sluggish at times, a lot of people say you really need a SSD for it.

Just send me your Inkscape file, I'll see what I can do. Are you still on vacation?

[Typefighter01]

No, the option is to export from Inkscape into another format that Sketchup will be able to import.

I got that part  I just don't see the option to import anything in SketchUp 8. I exported as a .dfx and it is sitting on my desktop.

if your Mac is old-ish, stay on Snow Leopard, or at least do go further than Mountain Lion. Mavericks on my Core 2 Duo 2.4GHz with 8GB is sluggish at times,

My Mac mini is 5 or 6 years old and I think it has 2gb of RAM, so installing Mavericks will lock it up tight.

Just send me your Inkscape file, I'll see what I can do.

I need to add some holes for dowels, let me play with it tonight and tomorrow and I will send you something.

Are you still on vacation?

Yes sir, first day and only plan is to play with my toys all week

[Yvan256]

I got that part  I just don't see the option to import anything in SketchUp 8. I exported as a .dfx and it is sitting on my desktop.

To be honest, I just read about that method, I never actually tried it myself. Let's see... In Sketchup 8, File > Import... nope, no DXF file option. Maybe it does require a newer version or maybe it requires Sketchup Pro?

Let me check what options are there in Sketchup Make version 14.1... Yep, there it is: "AutoCAD Files (*.dwg, *.dxf)"

So, send me your DXF file once it's ready, and I'll be able to save it for Sketchup 8 (it's available in the "Save As" options) and send it back to you.

My Mac mini is 5 or 6 years old and I think it has 2gb of RAM, so installing Mavericks will lock it up tight.

Oh boy, stay on Snow Leopard then. What kind of Mac is it again? Are you also waiting for the mythical Mac mini upgrade that's coming up next tuesday?

I need to add some holes for dowels, let me play with it tonight and tomorrow and I will send you something.

Alright, I'll be waiting.

Yes sir, first day (of vacation) and only plan is to play with my toys all week

Glad to hear it. You wouldn't happen to have a sign shop nearby that gives away scraps and leftovers of expanded PVC sheets by any chance?

[Typefighter01]

You wouldn't happen to have a sign shop nearby that gives away scraps and leftovers of expanded PVC sheets by any chance?

Not sure, why do you ask? I have no problems paying for a piece if you would like me to do some more testing.

Big thanks to you BTW Yvan. Yvan has been helping me in the background with constructing my bartop in SketchUp and it is coming along nicely (probably a pain in the arse for Yvan, but he isnt complaining...yet ).

[Yvan256]

You wouldn't happen to have a sign shop nearby that gives away scraps and leftovers of expanded PVC sheets by any chance?

Not sure, why do you ask? I have no problems paying for a piece if you would like me to do some more testing.

Big thanks to you BTW Yvan. Yvan has been helping me in the background with constructing my bartop in SketchUp and it is coming along nicely (probably a pain in the arse for Yvan, but he isnt complaining...yet ).

Expanded PVC is... costly, to say the least. The quote I got from my local sign shop is around 200$CAD for a 1/4" thick, 4x8' sheet. 

However, they do have leftovers that they probably throw away in the trash/recycling bin so they could be more than happy to see someone make something from those parts.

As for your bartop in Sketchup, the pain comes mostly from the imprecision of the original files. 

Which materials do you have on hand, right now? And what are the thicknesses? You do have digital calipers, right?

[Typefighter01]

I have lots of 3/4" and 5/8" laminated/melamine particle board and MDF. I am going to home depot tonight, let me know what you would like to see me cut and I will pick it up.

Home depot sells PVC trim, how big is the test piece you want cut? If it is less than say 6" or 8", a lenght of this material might work. Just let me know, I have no issues buying material.

Yes, I have digital calipers...

[Yvan256]

I have lots of 3/4" and 5/8" laminated/melamine particle board and MDF. I am going to home depot tonight, let me know what you would like to see me cut and I will pick it up.

Home depot sells PVC trim, how big is the test piece you want cut? If it is less than say 6" or 8", a lenght of this material might work. Just let me know, I have no issues buying material.

Yes, I have digital calipers...

Can you see if your Home Depot has 1/4" or 3/8" birch plywood? As for the PVC trim, is that a completely flat material?

[Typefighter01]

Picked up a 2' x 4' x 1/4" birch handy panel, send me your file if you wanted something cut.

The PVC trim has texture on one side, but it is flat and smooth on the other 3. It comes in sizes 2" all the way to 12" in 8' and 12' lengths. Looks like it would machine nicely. I can pick this up later in week if needed.

[Yvan256]

Picked up a 2' x 4' x 1/4" birch handy panel, send me your file if you wanted something cut.

The PVC trim has texture on one side, but it is flat and smooth on the other 3. It comes in sizes 2" all the way to 12" in 8' and 12' lengths. Looks like it would machine nicely. I can pick this up later in week if needed.

Wow, thank you very much, I'll try and send parts to cut with the birch panel tomorrow. As for the PVC, we'll leave that option aside for now because of the texture.

edit: can you confirm the overall thickness (test multiple spots on the panel) of the birch panel? I found something on homedepot.ca that says 5.2mm but I want to be sure it's not 5.15mm or 5.25mm.

[Typefighter01]

.