Soulcalibur Project (Namco cabinet reproduction)

[emphatic]

Paint's looking good. 

[Nimbus]

You project is fantastic!!! Everything is well built and it looks incredible. Painting MDF is tricky, but your results are great. Keep up the great work! This cabinet is so well built it will probably be around 30 years from now, just like the classics. 

[matsadona]

I would like to see the pictures... but not a single one is visible for me in this thread. Why is that?

[Martijn]

Painting is very good, cudos 

[Malenko]

Looks pretty amazing so far, love the sheer number of pictures.

1 question though, why limit yourself to 4 buttons in a 2x2 layout? Is this cab going to be strictly for Soul Calibur and/or Tekken?

[Sir Kayne]

I would like to see the pictures... but not a single one is visible for me in this thread. Why is that?

Really ? Why some people can see and other not ? Maybe an Admin can answer ?

Thanks, the painting is very hard to do for me. Especially the side panel (picture will come soon)

Looks pretty amazing so far, love the sheer number of pictures.

1 question though, why limit yourself to 4 buttons in a 2x2 layout? Is this cab going to be strictly for Soul Calibur and/or Tekken?

Yes, it will be an SC and Tekken cabinet, I want make an real reproduction.
For games with more button, I have another cabs.

My view of arcade cabinet is 1 game-1 cabinet, but unfortunately I don't have enough place, that's just a crazy dream 

[Malenko]

you could also run neogeo 

[Sir Kayne]

you could also run neogeo 

Hehe, yes 

It's not totaly true that I can only use 4 buttons, but I will show you later the good idea of Namco as they built this cabinet.

Ok, "Welcome back of the stage of painting !"

Today, the panel control.
First I fill with woodfiller and sand

The primer


First layer


And her my errors :

Two errors:
- I use a brush for the primer
- I don't sand enough the woodfiller, and it make some irregular surface.
It's really hard to get it good after, I can only advice sand, sand and sand !

OK, I continuous with the side (I use only spray-gun now)
I built an "alien abduction laboratory" for protect from the dust 



Here the result dry

You can see the way of the spray, but that only one layer.
It's really difficult on such a big plate, and it's my first time I do so 

Easier on little panel


Ok, begin to look good

Finally it's look sexy


Not waiting more, after 1 week I decide to assemble (waiting sun and dry paint)



You can see the details, I use the same screw as the original (impossible to find that in France, I order that in USA)


Front look

It's  not 100% perfect, but I will put later decoration sticker, so it should be enough for the moment 

[emphatic]

Coming along nicely. 

[matsadona]

Hm... I can see the pictures now, when at home. Maybe the surf filter at my work block the http://files.gamoover.net/ url?
I know that a lot of gaming related sites are blocked... Can't do anything fun at work anymore, so I guess I have to work when I am there

[Harakiri]

Will you be adding the headpiece:



 

[Sir Kayne]

Thanks for support 
Yes, it's look like a darth vader style

Ok, time to put T-Molding (with the coin door, it was make the difference between a toy and a real arcade cabinet)!




I make a little test with the instruction card (that's a draft printing)

Get the original artset is very very difficult to find.
For the moment, I get luck and find someone, who friendly send me the instruction set. But for the side art I don't have too much hope...


Stage 9 : Back panel
I want first insert 3 shelf plate inside, but I want that the cabinet look like the original even behind.



First the power plug and switch


Preparing the panel


I cut again a piece of metal, drill 4 hole for fix it on my wood panel


Cut for housing the plug

I dril 4 hole 10mm and after cut out with the jigsaw


Ok, not nice, I must file it good


Ok, I know the fuse I put is not necessary, the plug assembly are already fused. It's just for look like the real one 

I paint the panel and test the it.


Ok, I need to adjust the backdoor, work on progress...(yes we arrive soon at today point) !

[Sir Kayne]

Today some other details

Fixing the screen chassis

This monitor is an intervideo 27" 16:9 and have over 35Kg !

I fix with metal screw strongly on the inside base of the cabinet

You can notice that the screen are not in contact with the side.

But finally, this monitor will not stay, I get yesterday a 30" 4:3 TV, witch will better respect the original cabinet and the game format.
(OK I want first run soulcalibur2 on ps2 with widescreen mode, but if I put a jamma system it's better to have a 4:3 screen)


And here some "full" assemble picture of the cabinet (but not finish, of course)


The sun was not from the party  

Back side

The back door is  not fixed, it miss the lock.

It missing the glass window (will come later)

I had an frame around bezel, that a difference betwen the real one and mine.
I think it's look cleaner as the Namco cabinet.

Ok, that 's the today stage.
I begin this week to built a another frame for the 30" TV and wait of material for the electronic inside part.

[emphatic]

30", really? I have 29" in my cabinets, what type of tube do you have? If the serial # starts with A68, it's a 29". Hey, as long as it fit and is 4:3, it's all good. 

[Nimbus]

Your build keeps getting more awesome. It is tough to garner the motivation needed to move forward so quickly with something like this. I am just as impressed with your build as I am with your drive to get it done. I also agree that a 4:3 tube would 'fit' better. Either way, this thing is sure to turn heads! Keep up the amazing work!! 

[Sir Kayne]

Thanks for support,
The hardest part will come later, buildiing the topper in fiber glass or PVC, I don't know for the moment.
I will first cable all the eletronic inside and adapt the screen 

30", really? I have 29" in my cabinets, what type of tube do you have? If the serial # starts with A68, it's a 29". Hey, as long as it fit and is 4:3, it's all good. 

Sorry, you are right, it's a 29" one (A68) Thompson tube from a Samsung TV.
I had a 29 Sony Triniton, but Triniton ist not good for arcade cabinet (really "fragile", easy to break if you move the cabinet).

[emphatic]

Also, Trinitron's aren't compatible with any real arcade chassis due to the Sony exclusive tech used. I hope you go with the 4:3. 

[Steve the kiwi]

Beautiful build, my friend!

 

[AlienInferno]

Nice build.  Great work all around.  That cab looks huge in the fully assembled pics.

[Sir Kayne]

Thanks guy !
Yes, the cab look huge, more as I expect, I must reorganize my gameroom for have place now 
The project go a little slower at moment, I miss time and material...

I begin to create the new frame for the 4:3 screen and the sound part. Pictures will come soon.

[Sir Kayne]

Very hard to advance at moment, the time is really missing...

I begin to create a new frame for my huge 29" screen :


That's a crt flat screen, so it's pretty heavy !

I use the same technic for make my frame.
Wood ! It's easy to work, cheap and isolated 


The router is my friend but make many dust !


It's always hard to cut the shape, the screen are of course not straight

I must many time adjust the shape, really long to assemble-disassemble each time the frame...

Ok, but finally I done !

Here are for comparison the 2 versions:

the old 16:9


the new 4:3


The width is the same, with more height.

I fix the same way as before:



10mm bolt for the screen and 6mm bolt for the frame assembling

Ok, time to take away the 16:9


and put the new one, after I take a good giant strength potion 

I think that will add 7-8 kilos more as before !

I assemble a little the cabinet

This cab is finally better with 4:3 screen !

[Sir Kayne]

Time to post some news !

After I change the screen, I must cut my old 16/9 Bezel



I want add a 45° angle on the edge, so that it look good and give a bigger look illusion.




With this modification, I not reproduce exactly the original cabinet. They was a ugly paper Bezel, not really strong or nice, I think my solution is better in the time.

A friend bring me a 45° tool !


Let's go...

Not really nice, I will finish it by hand for a perfect looking

On the monitor...

The edge will be paint later (I must add some special filler on the raw medium)

I must fix now the bezel

Here a side view, you can see the screen (at left), the bezel of 10mm (right), the wood support of the screen (completly left) and a little piece of wood that I had (completly right).

I fix an Alu L Profile

Should enough for fix it at the bottom


At the top, the "roof" of the cabinet block the bezel against the screen support.

The outside of the cabinet is almost complete at 85% I think.
I have to do the marquee (terrible part), put locks and fix the glass.

I finish the artwork reproduction (a very long job  ) and will make it print.
I begin to do the inside too (Audio Amp, hackpad for PS2, Jamma and Systeme Selector).

More to come soon...

[BurgerKingDiamond]

looks good man.

[Sir Kayne]

Ok, time to give some news !

My precious Arts were finaly get printed !


The CPO

Reproduction (by myself) 99% I think. If someone in the world can confirm ?

But I make it print to little 

Here with the metalic panel under, youcan see the edge.

It will look like that:


I will paint the edge, so :


Let's go...


For cut exactly 1cm. from the edge, I will use a plastic plate


After I put the plastic on my CPO

Fix the guide


After I stick it on the metal plate

Exactly 1cm on the edge 

My sticker is not laminate (no protection), so I use the platic plate as a protection

On this foto you cannot see the shinny, because I let the film protection on the plastic.

I get my IL buttons too from ParadiseArcadeShop, Aloha !

Very fast shipping, even I be on the other side of the earth 


Look really good !

Some fotos of the panel !



Next step the connection of the control panel 

[emphatic]

Looks great! 

[Sir Kayne]

Thanks !

Ok now wiring...

I use 12 pins connectors like the real one.

This connectors come on this cable

who end with a D25


The DB25 can be connect on the jamma board or any hackpad.

I decide to make an Dreamcast hackpad for the moment (I don't have the Soulcalibur PCB yet)
Begin a woodbox !




Some paint...


Many wiring job !


For the top of my box, I use metal

An old PC case will be pefect for that

I add two magnet in the woodbox


Perfectly fit !


With the sticker:

And here we have a nice DC hackpad !

[Drnick]

You do real nice work Sir 

[BadMouth]

With the sticker:

Wow! 

[emphatic]

Classy! 

[Malenko]

thats fantastic

[Sir Kayne]

Thanks !!

And here my diy Audio Amp:

The pcb is a TDA2030 amp, found on ebay for so $10.
Quality is really Ok   


There are 2 inputs.
For the selector I use a 9pin switchs (not so easy to find).

[Sir Kayne]

After a sound test, I feel something missing...
The two HP in the front panel are not enough for a real Soulcalibur sound.

I will install a 3rd HP for the bass on the bottom of the cab:


I tested first that

But the sound still a little in a box

Ok, I cut all and will put a grill
I use a "stupid" method for cut :


I use the Router, but my Plywood are bulletproof, 24mm !!!

After a long (3 days) work (I must make pause very often, or the wood will burn !).

Victory ! It's like I cut in the armor of a Battleship !

I install under the cab the grill


And fix my HP


I fix the Amp too.

Now the sound are really good 

Next step, apply the Side stickers !

[Malenko]

looks really good, bet it sounds good too. This project has come a long way, and Im really impressed.

[emphatic]

Great work!

[Nestafari]

Un petit chef d'oeuvre..

Congrats !

[TopJimmyCooks]

It would be easier to rout if you cut close to the line with a jigsaw (reciprocating saw) first.  you can still use a circle template if you leave a few connected points to keep the middle part in place.  The jigsaw cut makes the router bit have to cut less and gives a way for sawdust to escape the cut. 

[Sir Kayne]

Thanks guys ! More to come soon...

It would be easier to rout if you cut close to the line with a jigsaw (reciprocating saw) first.  you can still use a circle template if you leave a few connected points to keep the middle part in place.  The jigsaw cut makes the router bit have to cut less and gives a way for sawdust to escape the cut.

You totaly right, I came on the same conclusion.
My method was the barbarian way 

[Sir Kayne]

Ok, time to complete this project...

Here a front view with side unmount.


without the coinbox and panel (unmount too)..look so empty 

It's time to apply the side !!!

Here are the objectif :


Ok, before I forget, I must protect the bottom edge from the side (almost forget)

Done !




First step :
cut out exactly the sticker side !

I must cut the sticker 1cm. from the edge (I print it to tiny  ) ! Ok I use a model first


Second step:
Cut the side with help of the model


Really hard, I must be really accurate in my cut


Cutting the up sticker is ultra-hard, because the curve of the cabinet are really particular

I use a transparent plastic sheet for have the form of the wood panel and trace again the same form with 2cm inside.
After I have just to cut like the tracing.




Final :

 

Ok third step : Apply the sticker

The secret, soap water !



few, done !

This sticker are very big so 1m. square, not easy to apply without air bubble !

Same with the up panel
Many soap...

One side

Other side


Not easy to apply, but with patience and care you can do something not bad 

Ok, just for information The side art (and the panel) is a 100% reproduction from poor photos !! I use photoshop, illustrator and paintshop pro to reproduce that (over 6 months work). Of course I ready to share with everybody who need 

[kingchimp]

This was already a cool looking build, but that side art really pushes it over the edge.

Great stuff! 

[Sir Kayne]

Thanks 

Ok, now the mounting sequence !




I use the DC for the moment, so long I not have the original pcb !


The "butterfly" screw make the mounting very quick and easy (unless to close like a barbarian)


Front panel


Mounting the Glass support


Loudspeaker ready


Fix of the speaker and Bezel (I do a real bezel, not like the original in paper  )


Ok, now the control panel. Easy to assemble, just slide in...



that's is, I let the plastic for protection


I modify the roof panel for hold the glass


From behind, I finish to screw the panel


Sliding panel, very handy !


and close all with the key (like the real one, of course)


Time to install the glass


Yeah ! Showtime !










Look like new, isn't ? 
I use the same controler, button, even the screw as the real one. Honestly I'm proud for my first cab from scratch 
Ok, all is not perfect and I learn many things !

But wait, it's  not finish, there will come the topper, stay tune !