Soulcalibur Project (Namco cabinet reproduction)

[Sir Kayne]

After many reflection of building a cabinet I finally decide to reproduce a real Namco Cabinet.
Originally made for Tekken and after adapt to Soulcalibur.
This Soulcalibur version is very hard to find (the foto that I post here is one of the rare picture I could find)



But I will do some change :
-27" 16/9 screen (because I don't find any other screen for the moment, but the cabinet will accept 4/3 too)
- Multi support systeme : Jamma/Jamm+/NeoGeo/DC/PS2/PC
- Completely disassemble feature (better for transport and move in a other room for example)

Ok, let's go !

First I modelize completely the woodworking under Turbocad :

That's give an idea of the cabinet and exactly what I need for material.

Here Inside:


You can notice the system of the inside table.
The monitor will be fix on this table and not fix on the side. I do that for the disassemble possibility and for more general strength:)

The project is good advance, but I will post you all the work until now (I begin the 26th November 2010, unfortunately I don't have too much time  )
PS : Sorry for my english, I come from France, but I want share this experience from scratch project on this famous forum    Hope you will enjoy !

[Sir Kayne]

Ok, first the material


19mm and 10mm Medium plate, 16mm Aglo Wood and a strong 22mm Plywood for the bottom


And some "real" wood

Let's start !
Stage 1 : Inside Part

The CAD blueprint



Preparing the wood


Should assemble something like that

It's pretty hard to be 100% by woodworking

Drilling


And first test...

Look good !

Test with the 4 legs

The stability is really poor

I had some extra wood


Test again, Look better 


Time to glue !

That a complicate part and you must be at two minimum to fix it good !
Thanks to my neighbor 

After the dry (24 hours later)


As you can see, it's not perfect, but hopefully the wood can be move a little


I ifx the leg on the Ply botton

With bracket

and dowelled join for be sure



more to come !

[jmike]

 
    This thing is going to look awesome. Love the step-by-step and even the blueprints. Just make sure the base is secure, I would have doubled up on your side pieces or even used 2x4's. The frame is very important, it has to be able to hold everything up. Good luck and keep posting more pics


 

[matsadona]

Why don't I see any pictures? 

[Sir Kayne]

Why don't I see any pictures?  

Strange...I want not upload "again" the pictures (store on a French server), but if nobody can see it, I will post them on arcadecontrol.

[Yvan256]

Ha! "Stage 1 : Inside Part"... merci pour le sourire ce matin (08:00 EST). C'est la première fois que je vois quelqu'un faire ça pour son historique de construction. 

I agree with jmike, make absolutely sure that your base is very strong, especially since you seem to have a huge CRT monitor on top of it. Then again, if you secure your side panels properly that will also add a lot of strength.

[Sir Kayne]

Don't worry, the base is strong enough, I can climb on it   
The structure is very stable, especially when all the part will be fix.
The huge Side will fix the inside structure (the two side are fix together by the rear plate of the cabinet).

I study the question...See the picture I post
The arrow indicate the force apply by the element

The Side stabilize Left and Side movement
The Coinbox will stabilize front movement (normally, they should not be such movement)
The Rear plate stabilize the two side (fix them together).

[TopJimmyCooks]

I agree that you're not going to have any durability problems with that size lumber for the frame.  Nice joinery.  Welcome.

[Sir Kayne]

Thanks !

Ok, time for...
Stage 2 : The Sides

First I look for a software to optimize the cut of the panels:
Opticoupe, Astra S-netting,...

Finaly, I Idea from the two software and optimize myself again


After I take pleasure to calculate the different measures.


Ok, sword up and  let's cut !


The ultimate weapon (with laser sight) 

Medium make many dust, the vaccum cleaner is welcome

Of course, I cut the two side in one time


Cutting with the jigsaw 36mm medium is not easy, I cut the curve in several part



I finish the side with the belt sander and hand sanding


To finalize the two side, I use a copy tools with the wood router


Little test :


Look Ok !

Now I prepare the fixation for the rear panel


I ad a little wood 4x4mm on the inside base (at the bottom between the legs)


I fix it strongly with glue and screw


On the side I fix one too 2.5x2mm, to have something like that :

It's use to support a little the side (but what support really the side, are strong screw) and especially help by the assembling (the side 1.8mx1.1m are very heavy).


Maybe, you will ask you, how I will fix the Side ?
Keep the outside aspect without seeing any screw ? 

Here the secret :

(sorry, the picture is in french)
I will use a strong screw with two nuts. The nuts 1 fix the screw on the side, the second nut 2 fix the side on the inside base.
I carve the inside base a little so the nut1 dive in. Only nut2 is use for assemble and disassemble.
Sorry, I don't know if my explication are good enough 

[jayska01]

  your going to have buy alot of beer for your friends to move this monster  

[emphatic]

This'll be heavy but awesome.

[Sir Kayne]

Of course, there will be strong rolls under ready to support over 200Kg.

I estimated the cabinet (with monitor) about 180Kg. (~400lb).

[Sir Kayne]

Stage 3 : The back panels

Target is that :


The first difficulty was to cut the angle, I use a circular table saw.

After, a another challenge is to install the wood block at same high and position of the Side.

I make a test and note the position

I insert special wood nuts (sorry I don't know the name in english)


Fix on my panel


Assemble and fix the wood block with screw on the Side.


And so on for the other panels


My angle cut of the panel seem to be good 

Now the bottom back panel


This part is a little different, because I will not disassemble it (normaly)

Use two wood fix on the bottons (screw and glue)


This part will be finish later.

Of course, for move the "monster", rolls are welcome !
Rear side


Front side with directional rolls (like the Naomi cabinet)





Each roll can support 70kg. in static and 40Kg. in movement, should be enough ! (if not I will had two more rolls).

[Yvan256]

Shouldn't at least two of those rollers have breaks/locks on them? Or are you planning on dancing around with the cabinet while playing? 

[Sir Kayne]

Shouldn't at least two of those rollers have breaks/locks on them? Or are you planning on dancing around with the cabinet while playing? 

Yes, maybe...
I think the weight of the cabinet will be enough. But I plan to put leg leveler later.

[Sir Kayne]

Something more for the side
The side are fix with 4 screws on the legs from the inside base

(on this picture you see the coinbox, this will be explain just after in stage 4  )

I put 3 screw more at the bottom

That was not a good idea. I keep only one because it's easier to assemble and only necessary at the front finally.



Stage 4 : The front and coinbox part

Time to attack the front !



First a test without fixing


Not so easy, I must take care of the panel control for adjusting perfectly the coinbox



I prepare the front coindoor part


I think the a real coindoor is the key of a real arcade cabinet 

Ok, now the glue part

I check alway if all is straight

Test with the front panel


Now some technical part.
Here are the system for fix the panel

I don't want see any screw outside, but that must stay disassembled.

Look something like that


I continue with the coinbox, I will fix it with 4 strong metal screw on the bottom



I prepare before the T-molding insert.


At the bottom I prepare something special (not present of the original cabinet)


It's mean for an alu rail to protect the corner from some kick of angry players

Should look like that


Ok, the wood block for the panel are ready


Adapted perfectly


From inside, you can see the system

First it's was forsee to fix the panels with nuts, but the adjustment is so (too) just, that I don't need to fix more with nuts, I thinks.

Adjust such a construction is very hard when you don't have industrial cutting machine, that why I let cut the panel by the woodshop with the cutting robot 

[TopJimmyCooks]

Looking great - quality construction.   

[jmike]

Looking great - quality construction.   

+1. Superb job. This thing is coming together really quick.


 

[Sir Kayne]

Thanks !
Actually the cabinet is more advance as you can see (I begin last year in November), that's why I have many photos to post here 
But even it's not finish yet !

Special Stage : The coinbox cleaning

I get a coinbox from a friend really cheap, but need some cleaning operation

Ok, that a sega coinbox, but should be ok

Look good rust


I use a drill with a metal brush


After I try something weird. I use a spraygun with anti-rust painting


It give this hammer effect ! But it's not a good idea !
Cleaning the tools was horrible (take me 2 weeks) and it exist special finish spray color with hammer effect.

I check the coin entry, unfortunately there was broken plastic



Ok time to take my special ninja glue 

I get that in Thailand for a really cheap price. This japan glue is excellent !

Ok, during this time, I will replace the coin picture (not really sexy)


I compose something better:

more sexy, more soulcalibur 

Assembling the coindoor, with the repaired coin entry


Before :


After :

I repair the twisted metal and will add locks later (the cashbox will be paint too).

More to come !

[Yvan256]

That's a lot of progress! I'm wondering where you actually are in the building process, since you said it's more advanced than that. I really like those "forward" coin doors that stick out of the front panel.

As for that old coin door, I would never have the patience to do all that cleaning and re-painting. 

[Sir Kayne]

Now a big part !

Stage 5 : Control Panel

This is a little special, because the control panel of this namco cabinet is unusual.

First I want do that:


But The real one look like that :

They use an agglo plate with groove, bend and fixed with some strong glue.

I test this solution, but it really hard to obtain that (test with agglo and medium).
So I think for another solution to obtain the curve

I will use thick MDF and sand it to round.

I will put a little woodblock behind to keep the corner strong enough.

Today I work outside, it's sunny and good for cutting  


I cut first the botton of the control panel block.
Test on the cabinet (place just over the coinbox)

It's not 100% adjust, even I take really care  

Ok, I will use this fine 1mm sheet of wood to make it perfect.


Now come the side part of the panel block


Here the block for the future round corner


I begin to assemble with metal bracket

But that not a good idea.
By screwing the bracket, the medium move and let light between side and bottom...I put the bracket away

Only glue should enough


Not easy to span, I use here a strap


Ok after the night a little test

Ok adjustment are need !

I put the top panel, the right side is not terrible


Left look a little better


Ok, sanding operation


Great victory  

Now I need the metal backet for fix the Control panel block to the cabinet


First cutting the metal

I don"t like cutting metal, is really hard to work straight without a industrial cutting machine.

Time to bend 45°


Result...


Drill the hole and test


After I have the good position, I "cut" the square hole with a little file


I put the carriage bolt and nut



I had 35mm wood block in the control panel for have more stronger side

You can notice the 45° angle on the end, it's mean for have more place when I lock the nuts  

I begin to curve the side

I decide to stop, when it look good for me


The difficult is to do the same curve each side...concentration  


View under the control panel


I finish with the hole in the middle of the bottom (like the real one).

It's mean for cable and especially for the possibility to fix the clamp (see later)

I will finish with the panel itself.
Cut and rounded like the panel block


I let 1mm between the side panel block and the edge of the panel to look really like the real one.
I'm proud of this part, it's was not easy with poor hand tools  

[Rick]

You do great work with wood, sir.

 

[jayska01]

its all about the details well done

[RonnieC312]

Looking great.

[Sir Kayne]

Thanks for support 

Time to fix the panel
I get some latch (not really strong, but will be enough)


I take a block of medium, drill and but an carriage bolt


On the other side, I fix my latch

(the 2 additionnal screw come later)

After I glue the block on the side


But before I do a test in situation, for have the good position (not easy)


Ok, look good I can fix it

It's Ok 


I fix all

Aerial view !



Inside


Next the buttons and sticks hole

The position and disposition is like the real one.
You can notice a metal plate over the wood panel

The real one


I must cut a large metal plate straight, it's a nightmare, but I will show you next time, how I do !

[DCsegaDH]

Nice work, I really like this build

[BurgerKingDiamond]

You are doing a really great job. 

Your English is good, but with just enough errors to be an entertaining read.

Please make more progress quickly. I want to see how this turns out.

[Sir Kayne]

Thanks (even my English is not so good  )

Today, cutting the metal plate for the panel
That a hard part, cutting metal is not easy, especially with hand tools like a simple saw...


Hopefully, my father lend me a jigsaw with a special metal blade (until 3mm)

It's better, but impossible to be 100% straight...

I cut little part and adjust each time with the file


Very long...(take me 2 weeks), but finally I get that :

Better as I hope 

I wait  3 weeks more for get this precious, but very cheap, drill


Little test

It's really easy to drill the 1.5mm metal plate !

Let's fight !
In the wood


In the metal


I get that (I begin to paint during the waiting of the tools)


The joystick are, like the original, Suzo-happs system 500 sticks


After, I get the screw 8-32 carriage bolt (who only exist in USA in this size)

So I can fix correctly my joystick and metal plate

Unfortunately, it's was impossible to find carriage bolt over 3/4" length. It's okay for the joysticks, but to short for the panel and the wood 

Maybe I will find some later...
(if someone know an shop who send to Europe ?!)

[emphatic]

Nice, I love the SUZO 500's!  Don't you have a router so your can route out a clear space under each stick so your carriage bolts only have to clear the metal plate + stick?

Starcade (conveniently located in France) has carriage bolts: http://www.starcab.net/product_info.php?cPath=204_135&products_id=477 Unfortunately, only the shorter type seems to be in stock. 

[Sir Kayne]

Oh I forget to take a picture under the panel at this panel.
I rout out a space for the stick and there directly fix on the metal plate.

Here are a photo little more advance (paint and T-molding)


The problem with the too short screw are only for fix the metal plate on the wood panel. I know starcab, but they don't have the long model of bolt (and they are a little expensive, I get it cheaper in USA even with shipping  )

[emphatic]

I would skip the screws from metal to wood and just add a mounting plate from below instead. Unless you feel that the carriage bolts look good/authentic on top, you can hide them by mounting them from below instead.

[Sir Kayne]

I would skip the screws from metal to wood and just add a mounting plate from below instead. Unless you feel that the carriage bolts look good/authentic on top, you can hide them by mounting them from below instead.

Yeah, that a good system, maybe I will use for next cab 
For this one, I want do replicate exactly the same system as the Namco cab. That why I let the bolts on the top, like the real one 

[Sir Kayne]

Stage 6 : The Instruction and Loudspeaker panel

This part was long too
First CAD draw



It's always like the real one.

This time I get ill, and cannot work too much...I lost one week 
"Sir Kayne was seriously wounded, but the soul still burns."

Ok, let's go

Cutting the panel (10mm Medium)

Inside

outside

(you can already see the special support for the screen, I will explain later how I built it)

I need a wood block for support the glass

I use the router for do it clean.

I fix it with bracket, I don't like this system but I must keep the disassemble possibility


Adjusting is not easy, but I done !




Now the very long part...
Here are the original

You can notice the many hole for the loudspeakers

Let's do the same


Horrible to be straight


440 holes later...


Time to fix the loudspeakers
I will put a second 10mm plate behind the first one, so I can hide the screw


Preparing the second panel

Test by installing the loudspeaker


Look OK !

On the first panel, I do some carve in the wood for the head of the screw

It will look like that


Glue and clamp !


Here a more advance photo (with painting)

I begin to try a plastic sheet for the future instruction holder

PS : sorry my photos are not in chronological way, sometime I work on my side, after on the panel, and again on side, etc... That why you can  notice more advance of some photos as I describe.

[Yvan256]

880 holes on a grid pattern... And I thought I was capable of patience. 

[Ond]

Nice work, in particular the things I like about this is your approach to joinery, your detailed thread covering your design and woodworking and the really solid build of this cab.  Are you going to fill any joinery gaps and smooth edges?  I'll be following along with your progress.

 

Ond

[Sir Kayne]

Yes the cab is solid, it's important, because it's really heavy (I estimated 150Kg for the moment).
I will fill the screw hole with "wood paste" and sand to have a smooth surface for painting.

Let's show
Stage 7 : The monitor

The monitor I have, is about 35Kg., so I must imagine something really strong to support it.


I imagine a frame with wood and support in metal
This system allow to give different angle of view.

The monitor have 4 ring fixation like that:


Time to cut, with the Japanese sword !

This saw is call "Japanese saw", it really really good. You cut faster and more precises as a normal any saw. Even the quality of cut is better than the best electric saw !!! Must have ! 

Here you see as test block, to find the good shape to fit around the screen


After I copy the shape with the router on the final wood block for the frame.


After I drill for 10mm bolt (should be enough)


I fix the complete frame with bolt again. I want something really strong and prevent from wood splitting with normal wood screw
(and can be disassemble, If need).

Test


Ok, time to prepare the base for the frame

I use 19mm medium

Prepare the bracket

You can  notice the corner are round, to have a better rotation

I assemble the frame and fix the bracket


The screw look too long, it's just a test. I will put shorter later.

I put L-form metal rail and metal profile to complete the system.

It's begin to be night...hard to stop when you "wip" 

Inside the cab

The base will be screw on the inside table for fix everything strongly.
The advantage is that the monitor is not fixed on the side (like many arcade cab), but on a inside table.

Next day, I attack the bezel
I use a 10mm medium plate

Shape nicely with the router


In situation :


I put a frame inside on the side and the top panel, it's mean for the future glass window.
But the bezel is not really push on this frame.

So I image a system from inside with a bracket
View on the top panel

From inside

Outside

Look better 

Ok, next time some complete photos from the assembled cab, stay tune 

[TheChairmanH2K]

the quality of your craftsmanship is outstanding   

[Sir Kayne]

Thanks 

Ok, today an assembled view !
(without the roll)





Everything fit perfectly, but I should let more space it's difficult to assemble and disassemble.
(I will later correct a little the different part)

On this fotos, the bezel cut, the control and loudspeaker panel is not drill already (it was before fotos)


Extra stage : Side decoration

The original cabinet has such strange side decoration. It make look the cab bigger, but especially heavier 
I want do a reproduction, so I decide to ad that too !

First, I need a 19mm plates


I put the two together and fix

cutting

cutting again and sanding


I put my sides decoration with the big sides from the cabinet
4 layers sandwich !

I want sand all together, but that was not a good idea

Finaly , I use the router and work with only 2 side (my router tool is not long enough for 4 layers of 19mm)


Time to fix


Look like the real one !



For finish some extra photo from inside
I will put shelf inside the cab (2 or 3), so I can easly install different system (jamma, mvs system, pc, etc...)

[BurgerKingDiamond]

wow! you made it even heavier. I think that if your house ever collapsed in an Earthquake or something that thing would still be standing.

[Sir Kayne]

Yes, I live in a region with Earthquake risk 
Ok, now the very hard part for me....The painting !

Stage 8 : The painting

Time to fill the hole (wood filler)


Ok here are the product:
Primer for everything (advice for the medium) (German product)


I use black acryl paint for wood, but this product is not resistant (not a good idea)(French product)

It's written "one layer color". That's probably french humour 

Acryl paint with primer include (German product again)

Really good and strong paint for acryl.

It's many surface to paint, so I use the spay gun (first time for me  )




My first test on the front panel (of course I test before on a wood block)

One of the panel go wrong  

The spaygun was not good clean probably

Ok, I continue with the coinbox

Not perfect, but I will add another layer


I assemble for give an idea of the final result



More to come...

[emphatic]

Paint's looking good. 

[Nimbus]

You project is fantastic!!! Everything is well built and it looks incredible. Painting MDF is tricky, but your results are great. Keep up the great work! This cabinet is so well built it will probably be around 30 years from now, just like the classics. 

[matsadona]

I would like to see the pictures... but not a single one is visible for me in this thread. Why is that?

[Martijn]

Painting is very good, cudos 

[Malenko]

Looks pretty amazing so far, love the sheer number of pictures.

1 question though, why limit yourself to 4 buttons in a 2x2 layout? Is this cab going to be strictly for Soul Calibur and/or Tekken?

[Sir Kayne]

I would like to see the pictures... but not a single one is visible for me in this thread. Why is that?

Really ? Why some people can see and other not ? Maybe an Admin can answer ?

Thanks, the painting is very hard to do for me. Especially the side panel (picture will come soon)

Looks pretty amazing so far, love the sheer number of pictures.

1 question though, why limit yourself to 4 buttons in a 2x2 layout? Is this cab going to be strictly for Soul Calibur and/or Tekken?

Yes, it will be an SC and Tekken cabinet, I want make an real reproduction.
For games with more button, I have another cabs.

My view of arcade cabinet is 1 game-1 cabinet, but unfortunately I don't have enough place, that's just a crazy dream 

[Malenko]

you could also run neogeo 

[Sir Kayne]

you could also run neogeo 

Hehe, yes 

It's not totaly true that I can only use 4 buttons, but I will show you later the good idea of Namco as they built this cabinet.

Ok, "Welcome back of the stage of painting !"

Today, the panel control.
First I fill with woodfiller and sand

The primer


First layer


And her my errors :

Two errors:
- I use a brush for the primer
- I don't sand enough the woodfiller, and it make some irregular surface.
It's really hard to get it good after, I can only advice sand, sand and sand !

OK, I continuous with the side (I use only spray-gun now)
I built an "alien abduction laboratory" for protect from the dust 



Here the result dry

You can see the way of the spray, but that only one layer.
It's really difficult on such a big plate, and it's my first time I do so 

Easier on little panel


Ok, begin to look good

Finally it's look sexy


Not waiting more, after 1 week I decide to assemble (waiting sun and dry paint)



You can see the details, I use the same screw as the original (impossible to find that in France, I order that in USA)


Front look

It's  not 100% perfect, but I will put later decoration sticker, so it should be enough for the moment 

[emphatic]

Coming along nicely. 

[matsadona]

Hm... I can see the pictures now, when at home. Maybe the surf filter at my work block the http://files.gamoover.net/ url?
I know that a lot of gaming related sites are blocked... Can't do anything fun at work anymore, so I guess I have to work when I am there

[Harakiri]

Will you be adding the headpiece:



 

[Sir Kayne]

Thanks for support 
Yes, it's look like a darth vader style

Ok, time to put T-Molding (with the coin door, it was make the difference between a toy and a real arcade cabinet)!




I make a little test with the instruction card (that's a draft printing)

Get the original artset is very very difficult to find.
For the moment, I get luck and find someone, who friendly send me the instruction set. But for the side art I don't have too much hope...


Stage 9 : Back panel
I want first insert 3 shelf plate inside, but I want that the cabinet look like the original even behind.



First the power plug and switch


Preparing the panel


I cut again a piece of metal, drill 4 hole for fix it on my wood panel


Cut for housing the plug

I dril 4 hole 10mm and after cut out with the jigsaw


Ok, not nice, I must file it good


Ok, I know the fuse I put is not necessary, the plug assembly are already fused. It's just for look like the real one 

I paint the panel and test the it.


Ok, I need to adjust the backdoor, work on progress...(yes we arrive soon at today point) !

[Sir Kayne]

Today some other details

Fixing the screen chassis

This monitor is an intervideo 27" 16:9 and have over 35Kg !

I fix with metal screw strongly on the inside base of the cabinet

You can notice that the screen are not in contact with the side.

But finally, this monitor will not stay, I get yesterday a 30" 4:3 TV, witch will better respect the original cabinet and the game format.
(OK I want first run soulcalibur2 on ps2 with widescreen mode, but if I put a jamma system it's better to have a 4:3 screen)


And here some "full" assemble picture of the cabinet (but not finish, of course)


The sun was not from the party  

Back side

The back door is  not fixed, it miss the lock.

It missing the glass window (will come later)

I had an frame around bezel, that a difference betwen the real one and mine.
I think it's look cleaner as the Namco cabinet.

Ok, that 's the today stage.
I begin this week to built a another frame for the 30" TV and wait of material for the electronic inside part.

[emphatic]

30", really? I have 29" in my cabinets, what type of tube do you have? If the serial # starts with A68, it's a 29". Hey, as long as it fit and is 4:3, it's all good. 

[Nimbus]

Your build keeps getting more awesome. It is tough to garner the motivation needed to move forward so quickly with something like this. I am just as impressed with your build as I am with your drive to get it done. I also agree that a 4:3 tube would 'fit' better. Either way, this thing is sure to turn heads! Keep up the amazing work!! 

[Sir Kayne]

Thanks for support,
The hardest part will come later, buildiing the topper in fiber glass or PVC, I don't know for the moment.
I will first cable all the eletronic inside and adapt the screen 

30", really? I have 29" in my cabinets, what type of tube do you have? If the serial # starts with A68, it's a 29". Hey, as long as it fit and is 4:3, it's all good. 

Sorry, you are right, it's a 29" one (A68) Thompson tube from a Samsung TV.
I had a 29 Sony Triniton, but Triniton ist not good for arcade cabinet (really "fragile", easy to break if you move the cabinet).

[emphatic]

Also, Trinitron's aren't compatible with any real arcade chassis due to the Sony exclusive tech used. I hope you go with the 4:3. 

[Steve the kiwi]

Beautiful build, my friend!

 

[AlienInferno]

Nice build.  Great work all around.  That cab looks huge in the fully assembled pics.

[Sir Kayne]

Thanks guy !
Yes, the cab look huge, more as I expect, I must reorganize my gameroom for have place now 
The project go a little slower at moment, I miss time and material...

I begin to create the new frame for the 4:3 screen and the sound part. Pictures will come soon.

[Sir Kayne]

Very hard to advance at moment, the time is really missing...

I begin to create a new frame for my huge 29" screen :


That's a crt flat screen, so it's pretty heavy !

I use the same technic for make my frame.
Wood ! It's easy to work, cheap and isolated 


The router is my friend but make many dust !


It's always hard to cut the shape, the screen are of course not straight

I must many time adjust the shape, really long to assemble-disassemble each time the frame...

Ok, but finally I done !

Here are for comparison the 2 versions:

the old 16:9


the new 4:3


The width is the same, with more height.

I fix the same way as before:



10mm bolt for the screen and 6mm bolt for the frame assembling

Ok, time to take away the 16:9


and put the new one, after I take a good giant strength potion 

I think that will add 7-8 kilos more as before !

I assemble a little the cabinet

This cab is finally better with 4:3 screen !

[Sir Kayne]

Time to post some news !

After I change the screen, I must cut my old 16/9 Bezel



I want add a 45° angle on the edge, so that it look good and give a bigger look illusion.




With this modification, I not reproduce exactly the original cabinet. They was a ugly paper Bezel, not really strong or nice, I think my solution is better in the time.

A friend bring me a 45° tool !


Let's go...

Not really nice, I will finish it by hand for a perfect looking

On the monitor...

The edge will be paint later (I must add some special filler on the raw medium)

I must fix now the bezel

Here a side view, you can see the screen (at left), the bezel of 10mm (right), the wood support of the screen (completly left) and a little piece of wood that I had (completly right).

I fix an Alu L Profile

Should enough for fix it at the bottom


At the top, the "roof" of the cabinet block the bezel against the screen support.

The outside of the cabinet is almost complete at 85% I think.
I have to do the marquee (terrible part), put locks and fix the glass.

I finish the artwork reproduction (a very long job  ) and will make it print.
I begin to do the inside too (Audio Amp, hackpad for PS2, Jamma and Systeme Selector).

More to come soon...

[BurgerKingDiamond]

looks good man.

[Sir Kayne]

Ok, time to give some news !

My precious Arts were finaly get printed !


The CPO

Reproduction (by myself) 99% I think. If someone in the world can confirm ?

But I make it print to little 

Here with the metalic panel under, youcan see the edge.

It will look like that:


I will paint the edge, so :


Let's go...


For cut exactly 1cm. from the edge, I will use a plastic plate


After I put the plastic on my CPO

Fix the guide


After I stick it on the metal plate

Exactly 1cm on the edge 

My sticker is not laminate (no protection), so I use the platic plate as a protection

On this foto you cannot see the shinny, because I let the film protection on the plastic.

I get my IL buttons too from ParadiseArcadeShop, Aloha !

Very fast shipping, even I be on the other side of the earth 


Look really good !

Some fotos of the panel !



Next step the connection of the control panel 

[emphatic]

Looks great! 

[Sir Kayne]

Thanks !

Ok now wiring...

I use 12 pins connectors like the real one.

This connectors come on this cable

who end with a D25


The DB25 can be connect on the jamma board or any hackpad.

I decide to make an Dreamcast hackpad for the moment (I don't have the Soulcalibur PCB yet)
Begin a woodbox !




Some paint...


Many wiring job !


For the top of my box, I use metal

An old PC case will be pefect for that

I add two magnet in the woodbox


Perfectly fit !


With the sticker:

And here we have a nice DC hackpad !

[Drnick]

You do real nice work Sir 

[BadMouth]

With the sticker:

Wow! 

[emphatic]

Classy! 

[Malenko]

thats fantastic

[Sir Kayne]

Thanks !!

And here my diy Audio Amp:

The pcb is a TDA2030 amp, found on ebay for so $10.
Quality is really Ok   


There are 2 inputs.
For the selector I use a 9pin switchs (not so easy to find).

[Sir Kayne]

After a sound test, I feel something missing...
The two HP in the front panel are not enough for a real Soulcalibur sound.

I will install a 3rd HP for the bass on the bottom of the cab:


I tested first that

But the sound still a little in a box

Ok, I cut all and will put a grill
I use a "stupid" method for cut :


I use the Router, but my Plywood are bulletproof, 24mm !!!

After a long (3 days) work (I must make pause very often, or the wood will burn !).

Victory ! It's like I cut in the armor of a Battleship !

I install under the cab the grill


And fix my HP


I fix the Amp too.

Now the sound are really good 

Next step, apply the Side stickers !

[Malenko]

looks really good, bet it sounds good too. This project has come a long way, and Im really impressed.

[emphatic]

Great work!

[Nestafari]

Un petit chef d'oeuvre..

Congrats !

[TopJimmyCooks]

It would be easier to rout if you cut close to the line with a jigsaw (reciprocating saw) first.  you can still use a circle template if you leave a few connected points to keep the middle part in place.  The jigsaw cut makes the router bit have to cut less and gives a way for sawdust to escape the cut. 

[Sir Kayne]

Thanks guys ! More to come soon...

It would be easier to rout if you cut close to the line with a jigsaw (reciprocating saw) first.  you can still use a circle template if you leave a few connected points to keep the middle part in place.  The jigsaw cut makes the router bit have to cut less and gives a way for sawdust to escape the cut.

You totaly right, I came on the same conclusion.
My method was the barbarian way 

[Sir Kayne]

Ok, time to complete this project...

Here a front view with side unmount.


without the coinbox and panel (unmount too)..look so empty 

It's time to apply the side !!!

Here are the objectif :


Ok, before I forget, I must protect the bottom edge from the side (almost forget)

Done !




First step :
cut out exactly the sticker side !

I must cut the sticker 1cm. from the edge (I print it to tiny  ) ! Ok I use a model first


Second step:
Cut the side with help of the model


Really hard, I must be really accurate in my cut


Cutting the up sticker is ultra-hard, because the curve of the cabinet are really particular

I use a transparent plastic sheet for have the form of the wood panel and trace again the same form with 2cm inside.
After I have just to cut like the tracing.




Final :

 

Ok third step : Apply the sticker

The secret, soap water !



few, done !

This sticker are very big so 1m. square, not easy to apply without air bubble !

Same with the up panel
Many soap...

One side

Other side


Not easy to apply, but with patience and care you can do something not bad 

Ok, just for information The side art (and the panel) is a 100% reproduction from poor photos !! I use photoshop, illustrator and paintshop pro to reproduce that (over 6 months work). Of course I ready to share with everybody who need 

[kingchimp]

This was already a cool looking build, but that side art really pushes it over the edge.

Great stuff! 

[Sir Kayne]

Thanks 

Ok, now the mounting sequence !




I use the DC for the moment, so long I not have the original pcb !


The "butterfly" screw make the mounting very quick and easy (unless to close like a barbarian)


Front panel


Mounting the Glass support


Loudspeaker ready


Fix of the speaker and Bezel (I do a real bezel, not like the original in paper  )


Ok, now the control panel. Easy to assemble, just slide in...



that's is, I let the plastic for protection


I modify the roof panel for hold the glass


From behind, I finish to screw the panel


Sliding panel, very handy !


and close all with the key (like the real one, of course)


Time to install the glass


Yeah ! Showtime !










Look like new, isn't ? 
I use the same controler, button, even the screw as the real one. Honestly I'm proud for my first cab from scratch 
Ok, all is not perfect and I learn many things !

But wait, it's  not finish, there will come the topper, stay tune !

[emphatic]

Very classy! Please take some pics with the game running! 

[Sir Kayne]

Yes, I must take some pics with the game!

Here a quick one !

The screen is big enought and the sound good 
Real arcade feeling !

[Sir Kayne]

Sorry, some pictures have gone...
I will repair the link soon as possible.