We excitedly brought the cabinet home, cleaned out the cobwebs, threw in the Dell monitor (which fit perfectly behind the bezel), hooked up the Dreamcast and pretended that we were playing at the arcade. It was time to get down to business.
We turned our attention to the interior of the cabinet. We built a shelf for the monitor and a shelf for the Dreamcast behind the coin door. We removed the coin mechanism and replaced it with two battery powered pen lights to illuminate the coin accepters. These were small tasks, but they were necessary to get the project started in earnest.
The first major challenge we had was wiring the buttons to the Dreamcast. Again, we turned to the Internet and found articles about hacking control pads. Given our complete lack of skills, the thought of soldering 11 wires to the tiny controller pads seemed like an impossible task (we did try but the results were a bit embarrassing). We learned that Mad Catz controllers had two benefits: (1) the analog triggers took the form of digital buttons and (2) the circuit board featured tiny holes where the wires could the threaded through without soldering (call us wussies, but this was the only way). The hardest part is finding these underappreciated controllers.
There is a vintage video game store in our area that took interest in our effort. They sold us 4 controllers (we only need 2 for our 2 player cabinet, but we counted on screwing up a couple so we bought out their inventory). Next, it was time to determine the button layout.
We tested the button layout by installing the buttons in a cardboard box. After our first attempt, my son declared that the search was over and that he had his favorite (which was the layout he originally desired, but I wanted him to try it out first before we drilled the control panel).
Next we wired up the controllers so that we could play games using the buttons in the cardboard box. Being able to play using the buttons was a treat even though we knew we had a month of working on the cabinet ahead of us.


(the world's ugliest arcade controller)
The control panel was the next area to get attention. The cabinet has a really nice control panel. It is made of 1/8 inch steel and can easily be removed from the cabinet. The only problem was that the control panel had been drilled to fit any number of games. This meant that while the old bowling game that was in the cabinet had 3 small button holes and one track ball hole, the contact paper covering was hiding a number of additional holes.
We determined exactly where we wanted the button holes on the control panel plexiglass. Next, we had a plexiglass place make us a pretty new piece using Lexan. In the making of our new Lexan piece, they ended up drilling the old plexiglass (as they were using it as a template) which turned out to be a blessing.

I was able to drill new holes in the control panel by using the old plexiglass as a guide (a task that would have been impossible without the template). Within an hour or so, all of the button holes were drilled. It turned out that several of our holes conflicted with the existing holes. To mitigate this problem, we cut a piece of thin plywood a bit smaller than the control panel and we cut our holes into the plywood. This way the buttons would have something to screw against. It worked perfect.

Next, we used some old computer speakers to wire the cabinet for sound. We also picked up an under-cabinet flouriscent light for the marquee.
In the meantime, my son was using his artistic skills to create a one-of-a-kind marquee and control panel overlay. They turned out beautiful. We found a local sign maker and turned him loose. I was certain he was the right guy for the job.
While waiting for the signs, we wired up another controller in the box so that we could engage in some 2 player action. We also purchased a power strip that allowed everything in the cabinet to power up (the light, speakers, and monitor) when the Dreamcast is turned on.
The signs were supposed to take 5 days. Well 5 days turned into 2 weeks. I completely lost my patience as we were stuck until we had the control panel overlay. We finally decided to take the art work for the control panel to Kinko’s. Within 4 hours we had our art work and we were working the exacto knife, diligently making holes in the vinyl for the buttons.

(like a surgeon...cutting for the very first time)
Within a couple of hours, we had the buttons installed and wired. It was time to fire everything up to make sure it was working. I found a wonderful test disk at
http://www.cosmicbreaks.com/arcade. It graphically shows which button is being pushed as it is being pushed. All the buttons appeared to work fine.



