Author Topic: Painting MDF (Read 18825 times)

Homer41 · « **on:** February 12, 2011, 06:09:17 pm »

I went to HD and the "professional" told me to get kilnz water based primer and he gave me Rustoleum Painters Touch latex (black) paint, also water based. 2 coats of primer (sanding in between) and 2 coats of paint (sanding between) and the primer still bleeds through!! Am I doing something wrong? I know I wanted at least 3 or 4 coats cuz I want it blacker than black. It looks really bad and I keep telling myself patience young Jedi but at this rate it will take 6 months just to paint!!!

Any input greatly appreciated!!

Homer41 · « **Reply #1 on:** February 12, 2011, 09:00:51 pm »

OK, I think I fingered it out. I was using one of those little foam rollers that were recommended and just 4 the heck of it I used a regular 8" paint roller and it covered MUCH better. Maybe the foam roller 4 the last coat

Epyx · « **Reply #2 on:** February 12, 2011, 10:44:15 pm »

Kilnz primer is good but for MDF I personally prefer Oil based if you are going the painting route rather than laminating. With oil I just use foam the whole way through with no issues. Let us know how you make out with the water based once done.

Nacimroc · « **Reply #3 on:** February 13, 2011, 04:18:31 pm »

The primer shouldn't be showing through after 2 coats unless you thinned the black down too much maybe ? I would agree with Epyx about the oil based paint instead, but you may as well stick with water based at this stage.

Mixelplix · « **Reply #4 on:** February 14, 2011, 02:02:18 pm »

Not to hijack your thread, but why did you choose to go with Paint, instead or something like Formica? I wonder what the cost differential is, and how much more headache painting is than gluing Formica? I am designing my first cab right now and have decided to definitely go the Formica route, especially after reading threads like this.

I hope you are able to get it figured out soon.

Nacimroc · « **Reply #5 on:** February 14, 2011, 07:57:21 pm »

I went with laminate which cost me 200 euro + 25 quid for glue. Paint would have been about 20! So there is a huge difference in cost (depending where you are and how cheap you get laminate for)!

Homer41 · « **Reply #6 on:** February 15, 2011, 11:40:34 am »

Cost was definitely a factor and I thought it would be a piece of cake to paint.....apparently not

Gonna finish up the coin door and the back with the water based crap and go buy some oil based for the sides. I want the sides to look real clean and I'm wondering if there will be a visible difference between the two types of paint? I think if i stick with the same type (black latex gloss) they're will not be a noticeable difference. Right??

eds1275 · « **Reply #7 on:** February 16, 2011, 12:34:11 pm »

Probably won't even be able to tell - you'll just do less work painting the sides with an oil-based primer.

Homer41 · « **Reply #8 on:** February 21, 2011, 02:32:46 pm »

The oil based turned out great! Except the 1st coat I used a roller because I thought it would cover better (and I'm a moron that doesn't listen) but it turned out horrible. A lot of strands of the roller came off and got embedded in the dry paint. It looked like there were pubes stuck all over the sides!! So I sanded that coat off and just finished a coat using a FOAM ROLLER and it turned out awesome!! Thanks guys!

Note to all those noobs out there like me, LISTEN TO THESE GUYS, THEY KNOW WHAT THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT!!! I wonder how many MAME cabinets ol Earl at Home Depot has made to recommend me using water based paint?

Hundred bucks he was working at Petco last week

Thanks again!!

Epyx · « **Reply #9 on:** February 21, 2011, 04:12:20 pm »

Glad it turned out well for you in the end. Many of us were in the same question boat as you once upon a time and are happy to give back advice!

I honestly believe this BYOAC community is one of the best and most helpful of any hobby, anywhere.

clutch · « **Reply #10 on:** February 21, 2011, 04:18:29 pm »

I would have used a Wagner power painter to spray that thing in about 10 minutes. Although, I don't know how those do with oil-based paints.

Epyx · « **Reply #11 on:** February 21, 2011, 04:50:18 pm »

Quote

I would have used a Wagner power painter to spray that thing in about 10 minutes. Although, I don't know how those do with oil-based paints

A great tool to have but also a bit more costly ($80+) versus a $4 foam roller kit

robarcade · « **Reply #12 on:** March 01, 2011, 12:09:11 pm »

I don't mean to hijack but, do you guys sand the MDF before painting it? If so, what grit do you use? Also, I have a wagner spray painter I bought on sale about a year ago, never used it. Can you spay paint MDF with waterbased paint?

javeryh · « **Reply #13 on:** March 01, 2011, 04:50:54 pm »

1. Yes to sanding MDF before painting it. 400 grit is what I use.
2. The roller makes all the difference in the world. A 1/4" nap roller should work perfectly. The foam roller spreads the paint too thin and it dries before you get a chance to even it out.
3. Oil-based paint and primer are illegal in NJ (sort of - there are quantity limitations) so I've used Zinsser BIN Primer (water based) and it worked great. I got complete coverage in a few coats and it dried smooth. Sherwin-Williams for the top coat.

Painting these things takes a lot of patience...

darkmdbeener · « **Reply #14 on:** March 27, 2011, 10:50:53 am »

Im going to paint my mdf but later on i will ad vinyl artwork but thats when th funds allow it. atm since i am painting it what will be the best to paint. will water based or oil base hurt the future idea of adding vinyl?

and is there a paint that will ad some protection against water damage? i should not have anything to worry about because i made my arcade proped up about 2 inches but still safe not sorry.

pharoah007 · « **Reply #15 on:** March 27, 2011, 09:27:42 pm »

What are everyone's thoughts on Latex Primers/Paints.

pharoah007 · « **Reply #16 on:** March 30, 2011, 08:55:01 pm »

Quote from: pharoah007 on March 27, 2011, 09:27:42 pm

What are everyone's thoughts on Latex Primers/Paints.

Anyone.... anyone.... Buler...Buler......

DillonFoulds · « **Reply #17 on:** March 30, 2011, 10:36:20 pm »

I'm interested in this as well, what's everyone's favourite paint to use? I want to have a glossy black control panel top coat, what's my best bet?

Blanka · « **Reply #18 on:** March 31, 2011, 02:49:06 am »

Prime water based for speed (1-day cycle), then finish oil based. The paint-salesman will call it nuts, but it works very well.
Final paint 3 times, and allow 1 week hardening in between. Takes a while, but the proto I hand-painted is still in awesome condition after moving and renting it many times.

clutch · « **Reply #19 on:** March 31, 2011, 10:00:19 am »

Latex paint is good for walls.

javeryh · « **Reply #20 on:** March 31, 2011, 11:53:22 am »

I use BINZ primer and latex for the top coats. Works great.

DillonFoulds · « **Reply #21 on:** March 31, 2011, 02:39:55 pm »

Bin primer or Kilz?

mytymaus007 · « **Reply #22 on:** April 18, 2011, 12:37:03 am »

Is it the same rules for plywood as it is for MDF. Oil or waterbased paint? Does anyone have Pics of there cabs that are painted. Has anyone thought about self adhesive vinyl instead of paint or laminate.

DillonFoulds · « **Reply #23 on:** April 18, 2011, 11:20:57 am »

Mostly I was just using paint as a basecoat and as a temporary cover to hide the bondo, and make things look a little neater until I can get something together for vinyl covering and artwork.

penguinpc · « **Reply #24 on:** May 27, 2011, 09:52:05 pm »

I've painted two coats of Kilz oil based on my cabinet, sanding each time about a week after it has dried. I used a foam roller for this. It does leave a texture, but sanding works to smooth it out.

I have been test painting one of the back panels with latex top coats. My three color coats are semi-gloss black. I painted the first two coats and sanded the next day after each coat. Coverage is good. For the second coat, I used a short nap roller instead of the foam, although both seem to leave a slight texture.

There is one thing I'm not clear on. Should I sand the final coat? When I have sanded the first two coats, it dulls the finish quite a bit. Of course, I am using semi-gloss because I would like some reflection. I don't want my cabinet to look flat and dull.

penguinpc · « **Reply #25 on:** May 27, 2011, 09:56:48 pm »

This article on painted new wood, http://www.painterscapetown.com/painting-new-timber , says not to sand the final coat. I guess I will have to live with a slight texture if I want to maintain a shine.

joemama · « **Reply #26 on:** May 28, 2011, 03:06:11 am »

Anyone ever used Duratex? Lots of people use it for pro speaker cabinets because of its durability. People recommend applying a cheap black latex home paint as a "primer." This way you don't use up very much of that expensive Duratex.

http://www.acrytech.com/store.asp?pid=14119

Some examples of smooth and textured Duratex

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/bigmouthindc/4Pi%20speakers/DSC03501.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2699/4287293756_ec0acf65b7_o.jpg
http://srforums.prosoundweb.com/index.php/fa/11682/0/
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4111/4838868253_96b335fd14.jpg

Gray_Area · « **Reply #27 on:** May 28, 2011, 05:42:02 pm »

It seems no one has tried this:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=60033.msg593484#msg593484

I am, though have just started, so haven't laid any paint, yet.

Quote from: joemama on May 28, 2011, 03:06:11 am

Anyone ever used Duratex? Lots of people use it for pro speaker cabinets because of its durability. People recommend applying a cheap black latex home paint as a "primer." This way you don't use up very much of that expensive Duratex.

This looks cool. It seems the type of roller used and how you use it determines the degree of texture.

Gray_Area · « **Reply #28 on:** June 05, 2011, 07:30:25 am »

Quote from: Gray_Area on May 28, 2011, 05:42:02 pm

It seems no one has tried this:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=60033.msg593484#msg593484

This didn't seem to work. I sanded with 400, then brushed the glue/water mix. The 'sealer' dried with a pretty rough texture which the 600 didn't even touch. So I tried the 400, which I think took the sealer off.


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