Woodshop Birch For The Arcade Sides?

[fjl]

I was at home depot earlier today and started wandering around the wood section, thinking about how heavy MDF tends to be and how it will end up being a problem when trying to build my arcade. So I looked for something lighter yet strong. I found something called "Woodshop Birch."

It's kind of like plywood but a lot smoother. Not as smooth and straight as MDF but pretty good for what it is and the best part is that its not as heavy as MDF. Seems light enough to be able to carry one 8'x4" piece by myself. It also seems pretty strong as well. Only downside is the price. It goes for $39.99 each! MDF goes for about $25 a piece.

For how much lighter this wood is, I wouldn't mind paying extra if it means that it will make it easier to work with. But have any of you tried this type of wood? Would it be a better solution than using MDF? And is it as easy to work with as MDF? Weight not withstanding.

[amadama]

efjayel,
I have often considered using something other than MDF for the same weight reason. The one benefit MDF has besides cost is that it cuts like butter. Makes it real easy to make complex cuts. I'd be very curious how this other material is.
One tip, I ask Home Depot to make the rough cuts on the MDF ahead of time so I don't have to transport 4x8 sheets.
Alex

[sstorkel]

I've never heard of "woodshop birch", but MDF is such a terrible material that I'd buy anything else that was available...

[ivwshane]

I've used a lot of birch plywood (not for cabs though) and the hardest part would be cutting them with out it splintering.

[fjl]

You mean straight cuts like with a circular saw? I used to have that problem until I upgraded to a blade with many more teeth. The cuts where a whole lot smoother and no splintering.

[Hoopz]

You can find plywood with a variety of finishes on it.  I've used oak plywood for different things.  Since you will be using t-molding to cover the open ends, you don't have to worry about the plys showing.

I'd be curious as to the weight different between the plywood and the MDF.  If it's 5 lbs per sheet, how does that affect the overall weight of your finished cabinet?  If it weights 250 lbs with MDF and only 230 lbs with plywood, does it make a difference?  You'll reach a point where you need helping moving it regardless of the extra few pounds from the wood (or MDF).

Any adult male barring a physical condition, should be able to plop a 4x8 sheet of MDF or plywood under one arm pit and move the thing without too much trouble.  May be awkward but it's fairly easy.

And Home Depot and Lowes will cut for you.  First cut (or two) are free, then something like 50 cents a cut.  Can't recall if thats per sheet or per order.  Regardless, its a good deal if you need it.   You can always talk to the guys in the building supplies section and see if they will charge you.  I've always found them friendly and helpful.  I've even gotten a few pieces of stuff that they sell for scrap (at HD) for free. 

Have them do your rough cuts and it'll be much easier to get them home just like amadama said. 

[sstorkel]

Any adult male barring a physical condition, should be able to plop a 4x8 sheet of MDF or plywood under one arm pit and move the thing without too much trouble.  May be awkward but it's fairly easy.

You must have arms that are a lot longer than mine!

FWIW, I think MDF is around 100 lbs/sheet and plywood is usually around 75 lbs/sheet. Assuming 3/4" thickness. Figure the difference in weight is probably 20-25 lbs/sheet and the average cabinet will use the better part of three sheets. In addition, the plywood cabinet will be more rigid, so you can probably get away without much/any internal bracing. It wouldn't surprise me if a plywood cabinet could end up being 100lbs lighter than an MDF cabinet...

And Home Depot and Lowes will cut for you.

Just make darn sure to have them cut everything oversize! If you rely on exact measurements and have Home Depot or Lowe's do you're cutting, you're setting yourself up for disappointment. Some employee's are genuinely helpful but the majority couldn't give a crap if the cuts are accurate... At least that's been my experience!

[Hoopz]

I cant reach the bottom of it but I can press my arm against it hard enough (thats what she said) to move it around.

Yes, never ask for exact from HD or Lowes.  Give em 6 inches of room to cut it.  Rough cuts to help get it home v. exact cuts that they screw up. 

[amadama]

I just saw this:
http://www.bamboohardwoods.com/itemdesc.asp?Ic=56651

MDF made from bamboo, 71lbs for a 4x8 3/4". Shipping would kill the deal and it's $40 a sheet, but it's good to know that more options are coming into the market.

[sstorkel]

MDF made from bamboo, 71lbs for a 4x8 3/4". Shipping would kill the deal and it's $40 a sheet, but it's good to know that more options are coming into the market.

There are actually light-weight versions of MDF that are more readily available than that stuff. Trupan Lite (80lbs/sheet) and Trupan Ultralight (60lbs/sheet) are two possibilities. Not sure why you'd bother though. Plywood or MDO are both better alternatives in my mind...

[fjl]

Well unless something better comes along, I'm gonna go for the woodshop birch.

[leapinlew]

I'm using a product called Sandeply. Cut into exact 4x8 like MDF, and also costs $30 per 4x8 sheet. I've built 1 machine with it and I'm building a few more right now. Much lighter and screws have something better to bite into when holding it together.

[fjl]

Sandeply? With a name like that I'm thinking its similar to Sandstone and would crack easily. Is it at least tougher than MDF?

[leapinlew]

Sandeply? With a name like that I'm thinking its similar to Sandstone and would crack easily. Is it at least tougher than MDF?

It's plywood with a smooth finish

[Donkey_Kong]

MDF made from bamboo, 71lbs for a 4x8 3/4". Shipping would kill the deal and it's $40 a sheet, but it's good to know that more options are coming into the market.

There are actually light-weight versions of MDF that are more readily available than that stuff. Trupan Lite (80lbs/sheet) and Trupan Ultralight (60lbs/sheet) are two possibilities. Not sure why you'd bother though. Plywood or MDO are both better alternatives in my mind...

Trupan Ultra light is good stuff. Good luck finding it though. It comes from Chile and is not always easy to get depending on where you are. 

[Chadwick]

I've never built an arcade cab using birch plywood, but I've used it many times in the past when building cabinets, shelving, etc.  I'm sure it would make a great arcade cab as you can either laminate or paint it, and it is lighter than MDF.  I plan to use birch for my next project that I'll be starting in the Spring.  Make sure you have very sharp, or better yet, new blades and bits.  Use saw blades with a high tooth count.  As mentioned above, the birch veneer will have a tendency to splinter and/or fuzz.  Don't use blades and bits that you have previously used on MDF.    Cutting MDF is brutal on the carbide tips of your saw blades and router bits and dulls them much, much quicker.

[Lecithin]

With the right tools and experience you can make almost all wood products look good (with additional support almost all can be made sturdy enough too). Much of my apartment and workplace is surrounding by things I've made (I teach woodshop) and if nothing else, I've seen amazing things done by unlikely sources.

As with any plywood you do run a risk of splintering at the edges but as they've said above, sharp blades will solve that. you've also got the additional benefit of being able to cover (t-molding, bondo, primer, paint, etc) any small blemishes that occur.

Heck, give it a try, if nothing else maybe you'll be the person who changes a few of our minds (and future cabs)

[padstack]

I used birch plywood on my "mostly done" cab.  I still need to whip up a control panel.  Stained nice, t-molding went in good, and had no splintering problems with a plywood blade on the saw.  Not done (only 3 yrs in the making...), but I like it!  As with all plywood though, check the outer layer for "soft" spots where the plys had knots cut out and didn't have the hole filled (at least that's what I think it is).

[thatitalian]

Ever considered MDO?

[massive88]

Ever considered MDO?

Where do you get MDO generally?