Advice on Rowe Ami jukeboxes (topic closed please use latest) Regards Alan

[TxBigBull]

Many thanks Alan.  Time for me to get busy sending out boards.  Ready to get the music playing.

Jerry in Texas, USA

[BCGary]

Hi

I have an AMI-Rowe JAN Diplomat juke that was free.  Free because it was missing both the pre-amp and amp!  I'm having a heck of a time sourcing original replacements, and i would love to have a tube amp, but my question is this...is there a modern amp that I could use instead that will accept the magnetic cartridge input?

Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks;

BCGary

[ami-man]

Hello BCGary,

What country do you live in. When going onto forums it helps if everyone puts their country information into their profile being that most forums are used worldwide.

Preach over.

If you are in the USA, try www.jukeboxparts.com, if in Europe try www.jukeboxparts.co.uk, www.jukebox-world.de or myself.

Or course you can check out Ebay. I would suggest that you keep looking, I do have both chassis's for the diplomat but I am in the UK. Both chassis's would not be cheap but would be well worth it and would increase the value of your jukebox.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk

[BCGary]

Hi AMI-Man;

I have updated my profile to show that I am from the "Great White North", namely Canada.  Thanks for the tip!  I have been diligently watching e-bay for replacement amps but so far without success.  I'm wondering if you know what other AMI amp models would be compatible with my Diplomat?  I agree that going solid state would be a pity as I would lose all of the "bang" of a tube amp.

Cheers;

BCGary

[ami-man]

Hello BCGary,

The amp would be same out of a 1966 Model O Bandstand. The amp from a model 1963 Model L or 1964 Model M would be compatable but to large to fit into the amplifier compartment, I have used these as a temporary sulution whilst taking the amp/pre-amp away for refurbishment. It will go ito the compartment on an angle.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[AliasP]

Hiya,

I recently brought a AMI R85 jukebox, it's a bit tatty but I've given it a bit of a clean up, replaced a few wires and put in a new needle and its starting to sound great... the problem i have is i am getting constant static through the right hand speaker (as you look at it) that ofter increases to a huge creshendo of white noise. i've tried everything i can think of (which is admittedly not that much) but i can't get rid of it. Does anyone know how to get sort this out? Please help; it is keeping me awake at nights.

Thanks

AP

[ami-man]

Hello AP,

Please leave your proper name and location, it helps when advising on spares or where to send your parts for repair.

I suggest that you post some pictures of your amplifier and output package, so I can establish that it is wired correctly and can suggest options.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[ChambersMusic]

Your problem for throwing CD's very well could be the Sprag wheels on the motor under the player are worn and letting the carriage to rotate to far. What happens is the carriage say should stop and play CD 45 and the carriage stops one past or two past or maybe 1/2 way in between a cd. What happens next is the bow arm tries to pick up the CD and it is not aligned straight on and it can start the pickup then as it turns to lower the CD on the player it flips out.
Also if the carosel stops and is not locked in with the Sprage wheel the carosel can rotate slightly which then after the CD is played will put that CD in with the next CD, resulting in 2 cd's in the same slot. So next time the CD is played the Arm cannot pick both up and either 1 -2 CD's are then flipped out onto the mech somewhere and does not play. So each time this happens you start getting several CD's laying on the bottom or all over th mech.

Alan
Chambers Music Co.

[lilshawn]

I have a whole mess of 250 watt amp driver boards (40710104) mostly Revision J

most seem to have the same parts blown (R21/R23 some with R24 as well) as well as the same trace burned up on the back side. (as well as the main driver transistors)


the failed parts seem to all lead back to transistor Q4 which is bad (at least on the board i'm currently working on.)

I'm going to attempt to repair them for spares. Can you suggest what parts need to be replaced (besides the obvious burned parts)...

mainly I'm interested in what the root of the issue is that causes this particular failure?

[jac85742]

I love my Rowe R-86 but its giving me a problem I hope you can help me out with.  It cycles over and over and never plays a record for more than 5 seconds.  magazine spins, arm pulls a record, needle goes over and plays for 5 seconds then arm takes it away.  over and over and only stops when powered off.  unable to make a selection anymore.  Just cycles over and over and over.  Any ideas?

[ami-man]

Hello jac85742,

If you power up the jukebox what happens? Does it do the following?

The magazine/carousel scans off and completes just over a full rotation and stops.
Or does it scan and picks a record up and the transfer motor just keep running
Or if you lift the arm up so it does not cancel and scan off again does it pick up a record does it keep the record on the turntable until you put the arm down and reject the record.

It sound if the above is true that you have a problem with the CCC or the mechanism control unit.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[margamman]

have pretty much the same problem with my rowe r88, only just aquired it, the record selection reads 100,it picks up a record , plays for a couple of seconds and then cancels. the  magazine doesnt rotate and is on record no 87,the tt motor light is on, the tran motor light is on, and the opt sw index light is on. all these problems occur when you power up with no money inserted.i live in swansea south wales uk

[ami-man]

Hello Margamman,

I suggest that you send me the following boards for testing/repair:-

CCC
Mechanism Control Unit
Pricing Board
Opto switch

Also if the jukebox appears to be damp then we may have to check out some of the looms that go between the boards.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood (ami-man)

Games Unlimited & Datex Systems
Units 4 & 5 Lion Park
New Street
Halfway
Sheffield
S20 3GH

0114 247 0242 phone
0114 251 0727 fax
alan-hood@datex.co.uk

[margamman]

thanks alan, boards were sent on monday with fedex,spoke to your receptionist, she said you were back in today.(wed) havnt sent the opto switch ,will do asap,thank you for your reply regards chris and mitchell

[ami-man]

Hello Chris & Mitchell,

I have got your parts, they were waiting for me when I got back off holiday, I have yet to test them and I may wait untill your opto arrives.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[HottLipzz]

Hello again everyone,
         Sooo I need to get this rowe cd starlight to quit making this like when there is no music playing. Anybody have some sugestions?Please. thank you

[lilshawn]

you accidentally a word.

try switching out the audio cable for a new one. I've had bad cables make all kinds of noise...

also, check your mute circuit...it's an orange wire with a black stripe it goes from the 6 pin plug on the right side of the amp to the computer. check your ground on the amp, player and computer too. something might just be loose or a little corroded.

[Drakin]

Question about the:

RoweLink Controller (40955703).
From the controller it goes to the Power Supply Assembly (EC1997-01)
Which I assume powers on the Pre-Amplifier (61138702)
and 250 Watt Amplifier (61146906)

The Unit also has an LED Brightness Control (40939701)
                                 LED Full Control (40939702)


I would like to trick it into powering up.
Is there a Wiring Diagram for this somewhere? Or any Ideas on what I can do.

The Core must control the hardware through the controller, As you know I am trying to make a working Jukebox with the Prototype I had picked up.

I have eliminated the Core and am installing EJukeBox

Thanks

[lilshawn]

okay, it's basically like this

the orange w/black stripe wire runs from the computer to the amp (makes a stop at the light controller...irrespective.)

basically when the computer wants the cd player to play music through the amp, the computer grounds out (connects to ground) the orange w/black stripe wire and the amp "un-mutes" and allows anything playing through the audio input to play

when the song is done, the computer disconnects that wire from ground and the amp (is supposed to) mute again.

[Drakin]

Nice!!...Thanks!!

[margamman]

hi alan opto switch was sent on friday with royal mail you should receive soon regards chris and mitchell

[julesgemini]

Can anyone help? I am trying to repair a Rowe Ami diplomat jukebox. The search board L-5048 had been cracked so I soldered it but now when I make a selection on the keypad the fuse blows. Can anyone advise on what might be wrong? I'm wondering if the selector arm on the board has to be in a set position or not? Please advise

[ami-man]

Hi Jules,

I have answered your email, I think it is time to take the keyboard & search unit to a Rowe Ami engineer for servicing/repair.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[margamman]

hi alan, can you confirm that you have received the opto unit as well regards chris and mitchell

[Harold1969]

Hello,
I have a 1977 Row Ami CTI-1S.
When I switch it on the record magazine starts rotating and does not stop.
At the display it says "200", which goes on and off.
Strange thing is that on the memory unit the LEDs of the Data and the Clock also go on and off.
This goes on even if I disconnect the encoder connector and the mech control connector.

Does any one recognize this problem? And knows how to solve it?

Thanks.

[ami-man]

Hello Harold1969,

There will be problem on the Memory Unit, it could be dry joints to the connection pins but I would send the following boards to a Rowe Ami specialist:-

Memory Unit
Mechanism Control Unit
Selector Logic

If you were in Europe then you could send the boards to us for testing/repair. We have had boards sent from all over the world including the USA & Australia.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[Harold1969]

Hello Alan,

Thanks for your reply.
Before sending it to you I would first like to have a closer look at it.
I saw also in one of the forums that the signals coming from the encoder can be the problem.
The advice was to connect 10K pull-up resistor (to -17V) at the encoder connections.
Is that wise to do? Or can I damage something?

Thanks.
Harold

[ami-man]

Hello Harold,

Never heard that one, if you get problems with the encoder is is down to the bottom two wipers being worn out, this is a flaw in the design of the way the wiper block is designed, this wear takes years and many, many plays. Just check them out and if need be clean the pinted circuit disk with a pencil rubber (erazer) and then wipe with a lint free cloth.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[Harold1969]

Hello Alan,

I found out that the problem is caused by the "5.1 to 50 pFD Trimmer Capacitor".
When I take this variable capacitor out it runs well, except for showing the numbers on the display.
It is not that bad, but it is not "in sync".
Can you advice me on a replacement capacitor and how to trim it so that everything is back "in sync".

Thanks.

Harold

[Harold1969]

Hallo Alan,

Another question about replacement parts.
Due to leakage of the battery 2 transistors MPSA06 MPSA56 are a bit corroded.
These transistors are opsolite!?
Do you know a replacement?

Thanks.
Harold

[ami-man]

Hello Harold,

All the parts you mention are available from sources rom old stock.
The only part that can not be replaced is the LSI custom chip these were deleted by Rowe Ami and the manufactures Motorola in the early 80's.

If you can not get parts or want the memory unit repairing  by all means sent it to me in the UK for testing/repair I usually ask for the set of boards:-

Memory Unit
Mechanism Control Unit
Selector Logic

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[Ken Layton]

Mouser Electronics sells the MPS-A06 for just 27 cents each:

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Central-Semiconductor/MPSA06/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMutXGli8Ay4kKpkmeMuX7Bfnk5bL3W%2fr%252bg%3d

They also sell the MPS-A56 for just 12 cents each:

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ON-Semiconductor/MPSA56RLRMG/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsTKkj12KWLXj1C6NY4%252bpMpZChBrHNqBi4%3d

Jameco Electronics has the MPS-A06 for just 8 cents each:

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_26462_-1

Jameco Electronics has the MPS-A56 for just 15 cents each:

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_210606_-1

[andye]

Hi All, I am new to the forum and have a Rowe R82, serial number 978857. I bought it for £50 over ten years ago. Its now time to get her working, I put it back together and repaired some of the structure, but cannot get it to work anything like. All I can do is play a record if I manually put it on the turntable, it sounds good and plays ok, but thats it. No power or signs of life to the display and the record holder will not spin. Any advice on how to start fault finding would be appreciated or places to send parts for checking etc. Thanks Andy

[ami-man]

Hello Andy,


What country do you live in?

If you are in Europe or wish to send in your boards to the UK then I can help you.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[andye]

Hi Alan

I live in Hull, thanks for the offer, I have a manual, can you tell me what or which boards, I am a complete novice here, also can i have your address details and i will send them in.

Thanks Andy

[bluespook]

hi everyone, i'm new here but have a problem with my Rowe.  I have a Rowe R92 and until yesterday it worked great.  I screwed up, i admit it and feel very stupid about it, but here's the problem.  I was going to instal the remote so that i could change the volume and skip song controls without having to reach behind the machine to do it.  So, i open the box and inside is the box on the left that holds the amp and light controls.  on the door to that box is a wire contact strip with a red wire and black wire connected.  I disconnected those two wires, then thought better about messing with this since i really don't know anything about it and put those two wires back.  Now, there is no sound.  So, thinking i tripped some sort of saftey switch, i started looking around for a reset button, i found one that did nothing, then i found another on the box that controls the light flashing sensitivity so i pressed it, now the lights don't work.  I've decided that i should probably call a technician to fix this before i really damage it but thought i would try here first in case it's a fuse or something.  It seems to work fine though, other than the lights not working and no sound, but it picks up records, plays them, with no sound, and puts them back.  it's all in working order except for what i messed up.  Am i missing something simple or should i just do what i should have done in the first place and call a qualified service tech?

[ami-man]

Hi Alan

I live in Hull, thanks for the offer, I have a manual, can you tell me what or which boards, I am a complete novice here, also can i have your address details and i will send them in.

Thanks Andy

Hello Andy,

Ok I would send the following to be checked out for dry joints and testing/repair:-

Power supply unit ( this is on the left hand side of the jukebox at the front) send the compleate unit.
Memory Unit 301-07855 (right hand side of the mechanism)
Mechanism Control Unit  401-06905 (left hand side of the mechanism
Selector Logic 601-08060 (right hand side of cabinet)

When removing the molex plugs DO NOT PULL ON THE WIRES pull on the plastic moulding of the molex plug instead. To aid yourself mark up the plugs for the boards (as the case of the selector logic there is five plugs P501, P502, P503, P505 & P506)

On the power supply there are  plugs marked up phono harness, to power switch and lights that need removing (these have two tabs on the side of the plugs that unlock them) you will also have to take out the amplifier supply plug. The 220/240 supply cable goes through a number of clips and goes through a hole in the back of the jukebox. You will see a plate that locks down the supply to the base of the jukebox on the right hand side that is held down with 2 x 1/4AF (4BA) screws.



Regards
Alan

Alan Hood (ami-man)
Games Unlimited & Datex Systems
Units 4 & 5 Lion Park
New Street
Halfway
Sheffield
S20 3GH

0114 247 0242 phone
0114 251 0727 fax
alan-hood@datex.co.uk

[Scott Gould]

Hey I have a R-93, and am trying to connect it to my distributed audio receiver.

To do this, I am using a line output converter to convert the line level outputs from the Jukebox to the RCA level inputs of the receiver.

I am able to get good quality sound (although only from the right speakers, no left) by connecting to the terminals on the Jukebox that the internal speakers were connecting to. However, I would like to be able to use my receiver and the internal speakers at the same time.

I would imagine, with the multitude of right and left amplifier terminals, that this is possible, but I have not been successful in making this work. I don't have a manual, and was wondering if you could provide some guidance on how I can connect these wires to achieve my desired result.

Here are some pictures to show you what I am working with (sorry about their orientation):

Terminals with annotated explanation:


Full view of terminal area:

The amplifier


Thanks!

[lilshawn]

E1 is "ground" for your speakers.

e2/3/4/5/6/7 are your speaker (positive) outputs...the higher the number, the more power goes out to them.

but everything must be connected to E1. (negative)

you have your jukes speakers on E1 (black) and e4 and e6 (pink purple) which is okay because they share a common ground

seperate your pink/purple to left and right again...and wire your house speakers to (negative) E1 and (positive) to E2/3/4/5/6/7 as the loudness you need to match the jukebox permits.

[Scott Gould]

I've put an image below to show how I think I should wire the setup.

• Is this correct?
• Is it okay to have the Speaker Right Negative and Juke black (negative) cables both on Ch. R. E1?
• Is there a way to have the jukebox volume knob control only the jukebox speakers, and not the outputs going to the house speakers?

Thanks for your help!