Looking for modular CP feedback (UPDATE: Construction started, pics added)

[Neverending Project]

I am working on (meaning thinking about) my cabinet conversion. I will be building a new control panel, but I can't seem to decide which direction to take with the control panel. Originally I was going to build a fixed panel with a fairly typical two-player layout, six buttons each player, with a trackball and spinner in between the joysticks. But lately I have been leaning toward a modular design.

I didn't want to make a bunch of 2", 4" and 6" panel modules, and I am not too concerned with replicating exact button layouts. I also don't want to have to reconfigure the panel for every game - only when necessary. I am more concerned with getting the most use out of the cabinet without having a frankenpanel. So I am thinking about building a panel with three slots for modules to drop in. Here are some pictures of what I am thinking about:

Here is my cabinet (the model is actually what my cabinet looks like now, hence it is unfinished):


And here is the panel populated with the three common modules:



Here is what the modules will look like:



The modules will be able to be plugged into any slot. I realized that most of my gameplay will be just me - so I can put a joystick module in the center slot instead of playing off to the side. When I want to play two-player, I can populate it as shown. I can replace the trackball module with a spinner module, yoke module, steering wheel module, or maybe something else as I think of it. If I want to play dual-joystick games I can put the two joystick modules next to each other to avoid a long reach. And I can (eventually) get two steering wheel modules for the outside slots for games like badlands and sprint.

So I am looking for feedback on the overall look, and maybe things I might not have thought about. I plan on using some sort of connector that will mate with one in the box, so the module will plug itself in as you insert it. The overall width is about 34", and I am worried that is a little too wide. I am also worried that the panel as shown will be too massive. Oh, and the modules are about 9" x 7".

I still have a lot of details to work out, but am I just adding a huge amount of unnecessary complexity? Can anyone offer advice if they think it will be worth it? I imagine it is going to take a lot of work to get everything precise enough to work correctly. Any other feedback? Anything is welcome.

Thanks.

[Neverending Project]

Oh, and in case it wasn't clear, this is a conversion and the cabinet is already built. I plan on replacing the control panel box only. Attached are some pics of the cabinet.

[crummy]

I don't know much about modular CP's but you could consider have just the two slots - probably won't need two joysticks *and* a trackball at the same time.

[telengard]

Looks like a good compromise between a fixed panel and a hyper configurable modular setup.  Are you using the wooden frame to avoid having to fixate w/ screws to the panel?  I'm wondering how you are going to keep things from jiggling etc.  With a modular setup this can be a big issue.

In my opinion a modular panel is worth it if you enjoy playing a lot of different games and have the controls to warrant it.  I am very very happy I switched to a modular setup.  It allowed me to keep my cabinet looking like a classic cab (no large control panel) and also allowed me to re-create game layouts which was important to me.  The extra work was totally worth it for me.

What are you considering for the connectors when seating your modules?

~telengard

[NoOne=NBA=]

I went with four 6" modules on mine because that allowed me to put in two sticks with buttons, or 4 sticks.
It also allows one stick and buttons, or two sticks, to be centered for one player games.
My trackball modules are 12" because they didn't fit on 6".

[Neverending Project]

crummy: The reason I have 3 slots is so I can put a joystick in the center slot, which is where I will be doing the majority of my playing - one player.

telengard: Yes, the wood frame was to minimize movement and to negate the need for screws. But I am now thinking about ditching the posts and base for each module, and just using dowels in the corners of the module plate. This would cut assembly time in half (no bottom plate to manufacture), and the dowels in the corners would hold the module in place.
For the connectors, I was thinking a DB9 or DB15 connector and a USB connector for each module. The DB9 would give me 8 leads plus a ground, or the DB15 would be 14 leads and a ground. The USB would be for things like trackballs or analog steering wheels.

I think I am going to bring the sides in by an inch per side so it doesn't feel so massive, if I can still make everything fit. I will try to get new pics posted soon.

[Paul Olson]

Make sure the joystick and button module is not too cramped for you. On my modular panel, I made the joystick and button panels 7" each. This way, there is a bit more space between the stick and buttons - much more comfortable for me.

My panel is 37" wide, and I find it to be very comfortable for two full sized (some oversized) adults to play next to each other. I personally would not want to make it any smaller.

As someone who has a fully modular panel, I would suggest that you at least consider going that way. There is no need to ever build more than the three panels you are planning, but it is nice to be able to if you want to later on. At some point, you may decide that you want to add wheels, yokes, or whatever to your cab; and those might be hard to add with your setup.

Whatever you decide, I think you will be happy going modular. Good luck!


Well, I'm off to try and figure out how to mount a couple of Joust joysticks in wood panels. 

Paul

[jlfreund]

One suggestion is to change the L/R modules so the only modular part is the joystick, not the buttons.

I can see possibly wanting to switch out 4/8/49/analog/rotary/top fire joysticks, etc, but I don't think it's necessary to take out the 6 buttons at the same time.

I like the idea, but I'm worried how you will handle the connectors?  Ideally the thing just drops in and connects, but in reality you will probably have to go in from the back, reach in, and play with wires to hookup each module (and possibly reboot if the interface doesn't cooperate).

But being able to swap out the center module for a star wars yoke would make it all worth it

Jason

[Kajoq]

To make the connectors you could just have each module wired to a DB-25 connector so it would be a quick swap.  That control panel has pretty easy to flip latches and swapping a DB25 would not take long at all

Neverending, Do you know if thats originally a Mercs cab?  I bought a Street Fighter 3 cabinet a few months back and its identical to yours, even had the super angled control panel converted to six buttons.  I had been wondering what it could have been originally.

Heres a shot of the cab right after I brought it home


Sorry for the detour!

[DaveMMR]

I like it!  I wanted to go modular originally but went the other way for various reasons. 

You're set-up is simple yet versatile and that's the most important thing.  There's little, if anything, I would change on that.

One suggestion is to change the L/R modules so the only modular part is the joystick, not the buttons.

Just a note on that: if you leave the buttons behind, you won't be able to have dual-joystick modules (for Smash TV, etc.)

[Neverending Project]

I have decided to go with the design as shown, but will change the modules as they fit in the cp.  I had a couple of hours to work on it today (which anyone with young kids can tell you is extremely rare) so I started construction. I finished the box and top, but will need to cut the holes and route. I cut the panels for the modules but they too will need the corners rounded and need to be routed. Lots of work left, but it's a start.

kajoq: I do not know for sure that it was originally a mercs cabinet, but there is no evidence of a conversion. In fact, both my cab and yours have the three coin slots, so I am pretty sure it was a mercs. Mine were wired for three separate player starts.

[telengard]

DB9 and DB25 connections will work but with a modular setup I imagine you will have a difficult time swapping modules.  I at one point used molex connectors (same idea) but since you use 2 hands to make or break the connection it was awkward to *also* hold the module itself.  I ended up switching to RJ45 connections and CAT5 cabling.  I'm very glad I did.

Just some food for thought...

~telengard

[protokatie]

DAMN YOU VILE PERSONS!

Now I had to have an idea which (if I persue it) will add months to my cab... What if instead of modules, you had the tops of the CP set up like a sliding "in and out" assembly. You know, like those plastic puzzle games where you can move the puzzle pieces around to form the end picture. Just router the top pieces to fit in with each other. Then you could always make an infinite number of top pieces that have whatever control you want on them, and change them out without the hassle of moving entire block modules...

Just my thoughts, and someone tell me my "idea" is stupid so I dont persue it and waste time!

I swear someone here is named Lois, and I must be wearing huggies while dealing with an alcoholic dog!

[Neverending Project]

DAMN YOU VILE PERSONS!

Now I had to have an idea which (if I persue it) will add months to my cab... What if instead of modules, you had the tops of the CP set up like a sliding "in and out" assembly. You know, like those plastic puzzle games where you can move the puzzle pieces around to form the end picture. Just router the top pieces to fit in with each other. Then you could always make an infinite number of top pieces that have whatever control you want on them, and change them out without the hassle of moving entire block modules...

Just my thoughts, and someone tell me my "idea" is stupid so I dont persue it and waste time!

I swear someone here is named Lois, and I must be wearing huggies while dealing with an alcoholic dog!

No you have made be rethink things... Curses! 

I like the idea of routing a slot in the edges of the hole so you can slide the panels in from the front. It would solve two problems: 1) keeping the panels locked into place during game play, and 2) providing a "track" in which you can slide the panel in, and allowing you to apply enough pressure to push the connectors together.

However in my CP, I would have to cut the front of the panel off horizontally, since the holes are in the middle of the cabinet. If I do this, I do not like the idea of all the extra seams this would create - it seems disjointed to me. Also, I would not be able to round the corners of the panels, and not only is that sharp, but MDF (which I am already using) tends to chip/dent easily. And I am afraid that there wouldn't be enough support in the CP top between the slots. Here is a pic to show what my panel would look like, using the slide-in idea:


Anyway, I started construction on the box. Here are some pics:



Now I have to cut the holes, do the routing, not to mention figure out how to get the connectors installed. Oh, and I have yet to order my joysticks/buttons, too. How does one ever finish a project?

[weisshaupt]

DAMN YOU VILE PERSONS!

You may also want to consider adapting my velcro "shoelace" approach I just completed. Look here:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=75411.0

Or here:

http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/Velcro_Based_Modular_Panel