Author Topic: Possible Dead Monitor Need Help Troubleshooting (new pics 12/18/06) (Read 4559 times)

steveh · « **on:** December 12, 2006, 03:46:28 pm »

I recently purchased an arcade machine to be gutted for mame. I was told it was empty when i inquired about it, but now that i have it, it still has all the componets. It is labeled as a Capcom Bowling machine.

I plugged it in when i got it home and it seamed to fire up, but i got no picture. If i hit the buttons it made some sounds. so i think it was on.

Now before i continue i am a newb to the arcade scene. I have never owned a machine before, nor have i worked on one before.

What is the best way to test this screen. I do not know if it is the game board that is bad, or if the screen needs a cap kit, or any thing. My original intention was to gut it, and put in a tv for the screen. I will probably still go that route. but before i make my decision i want to know if any of this equipment works.

steveh · « **Reply #1 on:** December 14, 2006, 01:16:51 pm »

Is this the right place for a thread like this. Any suggestions to help me troubleshoot this would be great.

FrizzleFried · « **Reply #2 on:** December 14, 2006, 01:31:45 pm »

Steveh,

Some pictures of the monitor would help identify it. I am learning that unless the tube is messed up, damn near all monitors can be repaired. Some much easier than others.

You need to determine if you are getting power to the monitor with no image or if you are just not getting power to the monitor. Look at the neck of the tube...does it light up? If not, you may have something as simple as a wire loose or a fuse blown.

First step is to open the back and look at anything. Is anything disconnected? Look at the fuses...are they blown? Take a couple photos and post them here...or at least get the model number from the monitor frame (not the tube itself).

Start there and the people here will help...that's what I found anyway.

grantspain · « **Reply #3 on:** December 14, 2006, 01:37:05 pm »

a good point to start is to check for an orange glow from the neck of the tube,if you have a glow then the monitor is probably working.
if there is no glow from the neck then the first thing to do is check the input voltage to the monitor(states is 120v) next check fuses and then look for bad solder joints on the monitor chassis itself.
if you are not familiar with televisions then maybe you should not attempt any work on the monitor itself as there are some very high voltages present that can hurt and you could damage the monitor further.

steveh · « **Reply #4 on:** December 14, 2006, 04:17:46 pm »

Ok When i have some free time i will take a look at it. I have never done any repairs like this but i am not afraid to. I know that i have to discharge the caps. so i will do that but for now im trying to find the easy way to solve my problems.

i have taken pictures and here are what i have sofar.

FrizzleFried · « **Reply #5 on:** December 14, 2006, 05:19:14 pm »

That looks to be an Electrohome G07 chassis...which is a good thing as they are probably the most well-known chassis from the 80's and there is TONS of documentation on them.

As for discharging...the CAPS aren't what you need to worry about (aside from the big ass one at C903 i think it is)....its the TUBE that you need to discharge and be VERY CAREFUL doing it...you can kill yourself if you aren't careful. There is a TON of info on how to discharge a monitor...read up on it...then re-read it again to make sure.

Actually...I am a little envious of you...I want that vertical monitor frame ...

steveh · « **Reply #6 on:** December 18, 2006, 10:40:52 am »

Ok i have some updated pictures hopefully someone here will be able to identify this monitor and get me some more direction on what to do next.

I tested out the unit over the weekend. there was no neck glow from what i saw.

I tested the power leads into the monitor and i was getting 129V (AC i would believe) Im not sure if that is too high or not.

one thing i did check which i am not sure if it has any thing to do with the problem or not.. in my garage the electrical outlet appears to be wired backwards (hot and neutral are switched. guess this is a good time to find that out) I dont know if that could have any thing to do with my issue or not, so my next project is to fix that damn outlet. but in the mean time ill post pictures here

I noticed 2 leads coming off the housing for the monitor (ground maybe) that are just kinda hanging there. I noticed a spot on the monitor its self where these leads look as if they could be plugged in, but i am not sure heres a picture of what i am talking about

[Edit Removed Hijacked picture]

i found 2 fuses at the in the unit one at the bottom of the cab. (tested good with continuity test)
and one on the monitor pcb (where the power comes in which also tested good with continuity test)

One thing that scares me is how dirty this monitor is. I dont know if it is going to be worth salvaging or not.

Other questions i have can i hook up a tv to the unit to test the video coming out of the game board, and if so how. This would let me know if the game is functional or not (i did test out most of the features "blind" i put quarters in and it made noise as it was accepting coins i hit start rolled the trackball, and i heard the bowling ball roll and break pins. I can only assume at this point the pcb is ok.

Here are more pictures some have identifiable stickers on them

[Edit Removed Hijacked picture]

FrizzleFried · « **Reply #7 on:** December 18, 2006, 02:06:13 pm »

I am 99% sure that is an Electrohome G07. Here is a picture of what a G07 looks like...also keep in mind that this chassis is likely 25 years old or older...dirt is common. Both my G07 chassis' are dirty as all hell but they both work fine.

steveh · « **Reply #8 on:** December 18, 2006, 03:17:27 pm »

Well im pretty sure you are right looking at that picture so where should i go from now. Do you have an documentation on this monitor?

Red 5 · « **Reply #9 on:** December 18, 2006, 08:47:53 pm »

http://www.basementarcade.com/arcade/library/manuals/m/go7-19.pdf

Good luck, mine needs a width coil.

Jon

FrizzleFried · « **Reply #10 on:** December 18, 2006, 11:38:20 pm »

The G07 is probably one of the most well documented monitors there is. Go to Bob Roberts website here: http://arcadecontrols.com/BBBB/siteindex.html

There is a ton of documentation to read.

steveh · « **Reply #11 on:** December 19, 2006, 12:34:11 pm »

Sweet Thank you guys i have already printed it out and thumbed through it. What should be the next thing i should check on the monitor.

FrizzleFried · « **Reply #12 on:** December 19, 2006, 02:35:26 pm »

There is a flowchart for the G07 floating around somewhere. I believe Randy Fromm created it...but since he now charges for his considerable information I do believe he has requested the flowcharts be removed from the net...though they are still found some places. I don't want to post it here because, again, I believe that Mr. Fromm wouldn't be happy with that...

...but that didn't stop me from GOOGLING it and finding it available here: (look for the G07 links about 1/2 way down)...

http://www.lizardlickamusements.com/pages/documents.shtml

steveh · « **Reply #13 on:** December 19, 2006, 03:17:34 pm »

thx it helps to have someone who knows what they are looking for. I will read threw these docs and i will get back with my findings.

Hawkypro · « **Reply #14 on:** December 19, 2006, 09:21:37 pm »

steveh,

Randy Fromm site has great info and you can download his flow charts free of charge. I know Frizzlefried posted another site also. Check it out.

http://randyfromm.com/amusements/techdept/

Hawkypro

Grauwulf · « **Reply #15 on:** December 19, 2006, 09:44:08 pm »

steveh, if you're a litle unsure still even with the flowchart, PM me, I will be happy to walk you through troubleshooting that monitor. G07's are my fav monitor to work on, and at 20+ years old for the design, you can still buy pretty much every part you could ever need for it.

LMK if you need my help.

steveh · « **Reply #16 on:** December 20, 2006, 08:50:46 am »

I am sure i am going to end up taking it apart and putting in a cap kit. What is the best way to clean up this dirty board. If i get a can of electrical cleaner would that work well or could that cause problems

Grauwulf · « **Reply #17 on:** December 20, 2006, 07:02:14 pm »

You will find it a lot nicer to work on when it's clean too.

I'll tell you what I do, and don't laugh, because it works pretty well.
I run my chassis through the dishwasher. I usually spray the top side of the chassis with some spray nine or Super Clean and let it sit for a minute or so before tossing it in the dishwasher. You will want to take off the cardboard protector on the back of the neckboard, but other than that, put it in the way it is. Set the dishwasher to a nornal wash cycle, turn off the dry cycle *VERY IMPORTANT*. Oh, and don't put in any soap either. Once the dishwasher is done, you can either let the chassis air dry for a few days, or use compressed air to blow the worst of the water off the chassis and use the oven to dry it out. To use the oven, heat it up to 200deg F, turn it off and put the chassis in on a cookie sheet. Usually by the time the oven cools off, the chassis should be dry. You may have to repeat this process twice to get it totally dry if you can't blow the worst of the water off with air.

Don't expect to get the chassis totally spotless though, some stuff will be so baked on it will likely never come totally clean.

steveh · « **Reply #18 on:** December 21, 2006, 08:16:19 am »

well i dont have a washing machine. I will just spray the hell outta it with electrical cleaner then let it dry.

FrizzleFried · « **Reply #19 on:** December 21, 2006, 09:47:50 am »

Uh...maybe I was taught wrong, but is't water "not good" for the components? What about rust?

Maybe I am just a dumbass...

Grauwulf · « **Reply #20 on:** December 21, 2006, 05:46:32 pm »

Water is not good for components that are wet and receive power, or are powered up when they get wet. As for corrosion, the chassis doesn't stay wet long enough for anything to rust/corrode. Commercial board manucaturers run boards through a process that is essentially the same as my dishwasher procedure to rinse soldering flux from the boards. I've done this to over a dozen chassis and haven't had a problem.

steveh · « **Reply #21 on:** January 15, 2007, 11:00:44 am »

wowzers all my images have been hijacked....

ill have to edit that post.

any way

i was looking at the monitor over the weekend. I had all the lights off in the garage and i realized it does have neck glow. but it is very faint. Is this a good sign or a bad sign,. I am unsure how bright it should be, as i have never worked on a monitor before.

My plan is to take it out and set up a small work bench in my basement to troubleshoot the monitor.

grantspain · « **Reply #22 on:** January 15, 2007, 02:24:36 pm »

have you tried turning up the screen volts on the flyback yet/checking for cold solder joints on the chassis and do you get any static on the screen?

steveh · « **Reply #23 on:** January 15, 2007, 05:04:04 pm »

I get nothing on the screen and i have not made any adjustments yet. I have not had the time to focus on it. I am scared about the neck glow. if it is too low, could that be a bad tube? or is it possible other things can cause that. I dont want to spend too much time or money on it if the tube is shot.

Grauwulf · « **Reply #24 on:** January 15, 2007, 05:39:14 pm »

If you have neck glow, you *should* be able to get something on the screen. You need to turn up the screen control by the flyback and see if the screen gets bright and you can see the raster lines. If you don't see anything then, you will have to break out the multimeter and start doing some step-by-step troubleshooting.

steveh · « **Reply #25 on:** January 16, 2007, 09:21:57 am »

so what your saying is that even a little neck glow is a good sign. thx ill keep working on it then.

Grauwulf · « **Reply #26 on:** January 16, 2007, 06:38:18 pm »

Yep, if you have neck glow, then you know your fuses are good and the flyback is probably okay since the heater voltage is supplied by the flyback. So once you have turned up the screen control to see what happens you can go from there.

Jess-- · « **Reply #27 on:** January 16, 2007, 06:49:24 pm »

Quote from: steveh on January 16, 2007, 09:21:57 am

so what your saying is that even a little neck glow is a good sign. thx ill keep working on it then.

you dont want a big neck glow (its not a light bulb)
If you look down the back of a normal TV set you will see a similar small glow
this is a very good sign for your monitor.


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