Mike, After I made the flyback swap, recapped the board, changed the H/Out transistor, added PCB fuse holders to the board, I just reassembled and turn the game on. I first wanted to see if the game would even turn on at all and also wanted to see the size of the video output. I really didn’t make any flyback adjustments per se. So, even though the output video appears to be ok, it only stays illuminated for about 40 seconds. The only modifications I’ve heard about was related to the resizing of the video display, which appears to be fine. I haven’t tried to actually play the game. I’ll try that tonight. I’ll see what happens while I have video display as well as when the video goes black. That should be interesting. I’ll give another update on Monday.
Perkins, I’m not sure what you mean by reflowing the edges on the board. Are you thinking that I need to heat up all the soldering connections on the neck board and on the main monitor board? I can do that this weekend as well. Thanks for all your input.
I haven't read up on using a 19" flyback on a 13" monitor.. (makes me nervous that there is an over voltage situation that will cause the xray protection to kick in)
That said - definitely see if the game plays regardless of what is on the screen - you need to determine if its a monitor issue or a game board issue..
i.e. it will shoot, make noise, etc.. working except you can't see what is going on because the screen is dead (playing blind)
Re flowing the connectors - the joints in the pin connectors where the boards attach - after 40 years become loose / crack.
(pins 4,5,6 show this clearly)
Look close at the cracks on those pins.. a board warming up will cause those joints to move and lose connectivity.
To reflow a joint - heat it - remove some solder with a sucker or a wick and refresh it..
1. See if its playing blind
2. Check for cold solder joints - but reflow all the connector pins
HTH