Well we already berated him for that back in November last year. He's stuck, because his bro-in-law is the one doing the handy work, and sounds like a guy who would pants or ball-punch you if you gave him a reason to.
dgrace, at this point I think you're going to just have to suck it up and endure the complaints from people playing on P3 and P4. Perhaps later on in the future you might be able to convince your bro-in-law to take another go at the CP for you.
A couple questions:
1. I haven't decided whether to install the latches on the CP to open from the back or the frontside of the CP. Any suggestions? Pros and cons?
In almost all original cabinets that had CP latches, they were almost always mounted in the front. This was because you could attach a tether/chain to the underside and have it swing open and sit without having to prop it up like a car hood.
Here's an image from one of my older projects:
This makes it handy for servicing the controls.
2. I've noticed some people use metal brackets above and below their marquee and some just do t-molding there. Thoughts?
Thanks
T-molding above and below the marquee is just wrong. The main purpose of t-molding is to protect edges from physical damage. There is no point of having t-molding across the marquee since the likelihood of the physical contact up there is low.
Plus it doesn't serve any practical function, brackets are used to secure the marquee plexi in place, and not just for looking professional. Marquee plexiglass would be wedged between the brackets and the 2 wood edges going across the cabinet. This is how it's correctly mounted. There were no "back blocks" or bracing pieces of wood behind the plexi because they would introduce shadows in the marquee light. The only thing bracing the back of a marquee from going inward were the roof and speaker wood pieces that are part of the cabinet's structure.