ami-man's advice on Rowe Ami jukeboxes

[ami-man]

Hi,

If you require advice on Rowe Ami jukeboxes with regards to faults, where to get parts etc by all means leave a post.

It is best if you set your country details in your user account, that way forum members can direct you where to get spare parts or have repairs undertaken.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[John_coate]

Hello there...

I noticed you've been helping some of the members with wallbox questions.  Well,  I have a Rowe R86 and am thinking about connecting a wallbox. Prehaps you can help?

1. Do you know what wallbox models are compatible with the R86? 
2. I also have an R84... would the wallboxes connect to either?
3. I've been reading that prehaps a WRD or WRE is the one I'm looking for.
4. Are other interface modules required?  If so, are they available?

I may have a lead on a WRD model. Do you think this would be worth pursuing?

Thanks much and I look forward to hearing from you.

John Coate in Washington State.

[ami-man]

Hello John,

I think we have chatted before.

The R-84 to R-88 is the same technology so you would be able to connect to each jukebox with some form of switching.

With regards to connection a wallbox you will need a wallbox transformer 110/115 volts to 30 volt.
If you can find a WRE wallbox you will only need a simple interface that has a 500ma fuse in the data line if you use a WRD wallbox then you will need to obtain the correct interface because the WRD was meant to interface with a R-80S to R-83 jukebox. There are also interfaces that will interface with the earlier WRA & WRC wallboxes however these interfaces are harder to find.

If you have trouble locating the correct interface for the WRD then I do have some in stock.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[Rowe_Rookie]

I have a faulty crossover assembly in a Rowe AMI CD-51 jukebox.  Will a crossover assembly from a CD-100A work in its place or do I need to seek out an original.  Thanks in advance for any help. 

[pickledllamas]

Hi Alan,

Thanks for your post offering help with AMI jukes.

I have a unit that belonged to my grandfather that I would very much like to use. I don't know the model because the label is not legible.
I'll attempt to post a picture of it with this post.

It worked for years until it was moved a couple of times. Now it powers up and the turn table runs. If I place a record and manually move the arm it'll play. There is a fault somewhere but I haven't a clue how to find it.

There is 30 years of dust and much built up in it. I'd like to clean the dust out safely without causing any more damage or cooking myself with any caps that may be hiding in wait.

I'm fairly handy and follow instructions well so I don't mind digging into the box.

Any advice or direction is greatly appreciated.

doug

[tony1970m]

Hi,

If you require advice on Rowe Ami jukeboxes with regards to faults, where to get parts etc by all means leave a post.

It is best if you set your country details in your user account, that way forum members can direct you where to get spare parts or have repairs undertaken.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
Hi Alan
I have a few questions for you, would be grateful if you could help.
I own a Rowe Ami Jukebox, i bought it from new about 8yrs ago, recently it has stopped playing cds, I press a selection it picks it up puts it down and spins slowly stopping and starting for about 10 seconds then returns it, any ideas what could be the matter with it.
Also one of the tubes has no liquid in it is it easy it replace?
The Jukebox has never been serviced would you recommend it needs one,
Could you recommend anyone in the Epsom area and how much this should cost
Kind Regards
Tony ]

[tony1970m]

Hi Alan
I have a few questions for you, would be grateful if you could help.
I own a Rowe Ami Jukebox, i bought it from new about 8yrs ago, recently it has stopped playing cds, I press a selection it picks it up puts it down and spins slowly stopping and starting for about 10 seconds then returns it, any ideas what could be the matter with it.
Also one of the tubes has no liquid in it is it easy it replace?
The Jukebox has never been serviced would you recommend it needs one,
Could you recommend anyone in the Epsom area and how much this should cost
Kind Regards
Tony ]

[jdemarti]

Hello Tony

I posted some information to your questions on your other post, "Rowe Ami Nostalgia Problems".

Good luck.

John

[ami-man]

Hello Doug,

What country do you live in?
If we know then we can best direct you where to get help.

Your jukebox is the 1973 Rowe Ami TI-1 Seville and IMHO one of the best sounding jukeboxes that Rowe Ami built.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[pickledllamas]

Thanks Alan,

I'm in the U.S., Central California near Fresno.

[ami-man]

Hello Doug,

You need to carefully clean this jukebox to get rid of all the dust and dirt in cabinet.

I suggest that you remove all the major parts out of the jukebox and clean the interior of the cabinet with soapy water, rinse and dry well.

You will need to clean the mechanism down, I would strip of the search unit and remove the gripper bow assembly (strip all the parts off of the assembly and wash down with soapy water, rinse and dry. Reassemble the gripper bow lubricating only the trunnion casting pivot points (this should be high melting point grease put into the two casting sockets) check out the nylon trunnion gear and cam gear for any wear and replace them if it is required.

Clean down the mechanism/carousel using a damp soapy cloth and rinse with another dam cloth.

The turntable and idlerwheel and linkage can be striped down and washed to remove any trace of oil.
These can be replaced back onto the mechanism once it is clean.
Lubrication on the mechanism other than the trunnion which has already been covered is a spot of oil on all of the pivot points on the idlerwheel linkage, a spot of oil on the shaft that the idlerwheel fits on, a thin film placed on the turntable shaft put on with your finger, a sot of oil on the top oil pad on the turntable motor and a spot put down the bottom bearing oil tube. A spot of oil could be put on the indexing linkage after it has been stripped down and cleaned.

With regards to the search unit the PCB can be cleaned with a pencil rubber (eraser) and the open relay contacts cleaned with a taper of paper pulled between the contacts. This can also be done on the two open relays on the keyboard (these relays are under a plastic cover, if it is still on the jukebox). The PCB on the credit unit (credit clock) can also be cleaned using the pencil ruber, the same goes for the stop plate assembly that is behind the search unit, to clean the slip rings on it (note the 200 mark on the stop plate that needs to be in the correct location for the timing of the mechanism, please consult your manual).

Check all of your mechanism adjustments as per the manual.

Please let us know how you get on.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
 

[Mercuryfox50]

Hello Alan,
I am hoping that you or someone may be able to offer some advice.  I have a 1990 Rowe CD-100A which I purchased a few years back in Michigan; I live in the Cleveland, OH area.  When I first purchased the machine, it seemed to work fine.  After a few months of owning the machine I hosted a party.  About an hour through the party, while the machine was playing a song, the sound started cutting-out momentarily, then the music came back for a few seconds, then cut out again and again with duration of each "cut-out" becoming longer and longer until eventually barely any sound was coming out of the machine.  During the party I ejected all of the songs in the list to play, turn the machine off for a minute, then turned it back on.  The machine played a song and a half then the music started cutting out again.  Frustrated, I turned the machine off.  A few months later I called a local "jukebox repair technician" out to look at the machine on two occasions.  The problem with the machine was intermittent as each time the "jukebox repair technician" came out, the machine would play fine for several songs, however other times (when the technician was conveniently not present) the music would start cutting out almost immediately after I would turn it on.  The second time the "jukebox repair technician" came out, he replaced the Mech Control with another unit he had.  After a few songs of play, the issue came back.  Over the last few years I haven't had alot of time to mess with the machine but am now getting the desire to start tinkering with it again.  I contacted Bruce Wentworth of A&B Jukebox Repair in NH.  Bruce suggested that I send him my Mech Control and CD Pro units to be tested as he felt those were most likely the issues.  After several hours of testing, Bruce found both units to be in good condition.  Again, the sound cuts out; it is not a CD-skip.  Usually, the machine will play one or two songs before the sound begins to cut out.  Usually the duration of the cut out starts with a duration of a split second gradually lasting several seconds to constant.  Bruce suggested the problem might be the Pre-Amp but I wanted to get some additional advice.
Thanks!
Ben

[ami-man]

Hello Ben,

Welcome to the forum.

If Bruce Wentworth has tested the CDPRO and the mechanism control then they will be good, no question.

What you could do as a test is to connect the phono output  from the mechanism control to an hifi amplifier ideally with a CD input and test the jukebox plaing for a period of time through you hifi system.
If the results are ok it would confirm that you have an issue with the amplifier, this could again be sent to Bruce for testing/repair I would also include the output package to be on the safe side.

If the test above gives you the same results i.e. the sound going off after a few songs then I would suspect a power supply unit problem, maybe a dry joint (cold joint USA) on the power supply PCB.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[Mercuryfox50]

Thanks for the reply Alan!
I've got a home stereo receiver; could I just connect the Mech Control Output to the home stereo receiver input with the Red & White RCA cable which the jukebox currently uses to conncet the Mech Control Output to the Pre Amp Input?
Thanks for the great advice!
Ben

[ami-man]

Hello Ben,

That is correct, depending on what type of input the receiver has if it has a CD/tape input all the better, unsually the output from a CD is about 500 to 600mv.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[Bgard]

Alan,

First, please accept my apologies, thank you

I have an R-82 that will not erase the memory chip after playing a selection, so it continuously plays the same selection. Pressing the Clear Memory button on the Memory Unit does the trick, and you can make another selection (all work), but it is stuck on whatever selection you make until you press the Clear button again.

It does put the record back when done playing, but does not scan, just picks it back up and plays it again.

I have checked all solder joints on both the Memory Unit and the Selector Logic, repaired a few, all wiring/connectors look ok. There was a bad (burned) resistor on the Memory Unit (R728, replaced), but that appears to be for the battery which I don't think should be causing this problem? I believe the battery can be eliminated without issues, correct me if I'm wrong.

I've worked on quite a few Rowe/AMI 45 players, including the R-82, but this one has me stumped. I hate to assume, but thinking maybe Z501 on the Selector Logic board is bad?

BTW... I also has swapped both the Memory Unit and Selector Logic with used boards, just not sure if they were good ones or not.

Appreciate any help/info
Barry

[pickledllamas]

Thanks Alan,
That will get me started. :-)
I don't have a manual for the box yet. Are pdf files available? Or do I need to find a hard copy somewhere?

I'll take a few pictures of the inside of the box and my progress. Maybe they'll be useful for someone else down the road.

[Mercuryfox50]

Alan,
Tonight I fired up my Rowe CD-100A.  I selected song #1.  After about 2 minutes of song play the music cut-out about 5 times in 3 seconds then was fine for the rest of the song.  I then selected song #2.  For the first 10 seconds that song #2 played, the music cut-out continuously then cleared up for the duration of the song.  Per your suggestion, I disconnected the red & black RCA cables from the Pre-Amp on the Jukebox and connected them to the "Stereo In" on my home-receiver.  To my surprise, when I selected song #3, the music cut-out continuously with Mech Control hooked-up to my home-receiver.  It sounds like we have now ruled out the CD-PRO, the Mech Control, the Pre-Amp, the Amp and any wiring between the Mech Control and the speakers.  By the sounds of it you would suspect the Power Supply Unit being the culprit, correct?
Thanks,
Ben

[ami-man]

Hello Barry,

I have replied to your direct email regarding what to do next.
I have suggested that you send me the following boards to be tested as a set of boards.

Memory Unit
Selector Logic
Mechanism Control

Your profile does not indicate what country that you live in but I have had boards sent in for repair from the USA, Austraila, Germany, France and Hong Kong.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[ami-man]

Hello Ben,

Can you please post some pictures of where and how you connected the cd output into your hifi system before we discount the exercise? or send the information direct to me on alan-hood@datex.co.uk before we start looking at the area's of the jukebox.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[Mercuryfox50]

Alan,
Typically, one end of the Red & Black RCA Terminals connects to the Mech Control and the other end connects to the Pre-Amp. For the "Test", I connected one end of the Red & Black RCA Terminals to the Mech Control and the other end to the "Audio In" on my home audio system.  After connecting to my home audio system the music continued to cut-out.
I attached images of how the RCA terminals attach to the Mech Control, the Pre-Amp and the Home Receiver (for the test).
Do you believe that if a dry joint (cold joint USA) exists on the power supply PCB I will be able to notice it?
Thanks,
Ben

[ami-man]

Hello Ben,

In your earlier post on doing the test to your hifi you said that the music cut out from the start of play? or was it during play like when connected to the amplifier?
What I am getting at is when connected to the hifi are you getting any sound if the input is mismatched you may get very little or no sound. If this was the case I would try connecting it up to the inputs marked DVD in.

With regards to dry joints on the power supply remove the power supply unit from the cabinet and look at the connection pins that go through the PCB for any cracking around the soldered pins both for the output and the connections from the transformer onto the board. Use a magnifier if it helps.

Also look at the the molex plug that plugs into the output from the power supply for any signs of heating of the connections, this would be seen as the plastic of the plug would be discoloured.
you can remove the individual connection pins by pushing in the pawl  that locks the connection into the molex.
If you remove the pin look for any tarnish on the pin (clean with a fibreglass pencil or a pencil rubber) and clean the connection face, because the connection is a folded construction, if slightly unfolded it will put more pressure on the connection, remember to raise the pawl so it will lock the connection back in place when re-incerted.

Please let me know what you find, more pictures are welcome.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[Mercuryfox50]

Alan,
The consistency and duration of the music cutout when being played over the home stereo receiver amp vs. the amp on the jukebox was exactly the same.  Last night I pulled out the Power Supply PCB and the Pre-Amp/Amp and closely looked over all soldiered joints... everything looked great to the untrained-eye.  After putting everything back together I figured that I would run the codes.  I was able to pull three codes out of the system: "A WARN 06-01 18" (Start: 17:00 10/28, End: 00:00 00/00); "N WARN 06-02 03 (Start 17:51 10/26, End 15:45 10/27); "A ERR 05-63 20" (Start: 00:17 10/21, End: 00:00 00/00).  I do not have the date and time set on my Jukebox so that information is most likely not accurate.  I noticed that the third code was "Fatal Error - Mech. to CCC Communication Lost".  I check all of the connections and thought it was peculiar how loose the P9 connector (Rowelink) was going into the Mech Control, (picture below) not to mention how far it stuck out.  I pulled the connector out, compaired it to how the other connectors went in and noticed that the connector (white plastic piece) was upside down preventing the harness from being inserted completely.  The harness has space for 5 pins with the 4th one plugged.  What I did was removed the plug from the 4th pin spot, moved it to the 2nd pin spot and reversed all of the wires going into the connector (white plastic piece) and plugged it back into the Mech Control.  I fired the jukebox up and it played flawlessly for three songs before I had to turn-in for the night.  No idea how the P9 harness got mess up, but now it seems to be fixed.  Thanks for your help Alan... you have taught me alot!

On a separate note, none of the animation lights work nor does the lighting in the lower-front panel of the box... any idea what the cause would be?
Thanks!

[ami-man]

Hello Ben,

It sounds as if someone had altered the jukebox connection before you got the jukebox.
Well Done for finding the problem.

With regards to The Sound to light, if soume of this is on the then the loom from the Auxillary input/output connection from the pre-amp to the sound to light unit must be good. You will more than likely see two sets of connection from the lights to the sound to light unit. Check the connections like before for dry joints and overheating on the molex connections.

Also in the amplifier compartment is a resister assembly on the back of the compartment that effects the lighting. I would make sure that you have the molex plugs in for these lighting sections, In order to remove the front door section there will be various plus and sockets to check.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK 

[John_coate]

Hello Allan... thank you for your note.

I was able to find an original AMI wallbox transformer on line.   I paid $50 for it but it was worth it.  Like the rest of the AMI equipment from that era, it's built like a tank!

Anyway, I have successfully connected my WRE to my R-86.  The connections are fairly straight-forward:

- left audio
- right audio
- audio common
- Serial cable into CCC unit to pin 3 (logic common) and pin 4 (serial data)
- the two AC power / transformer leads

All connections are clearly marked inside the WRE, so I didn't have to find a manual to make the internal connections. 

I've really enjoyed cleaning up the WRE... once all the nicotine was removed it shined up very well.

Let me know if I can return the favor to you sometime.  While I don't have alot of experience with the Rowe's, I have had a chance to refurb an R-84, R-86 and most recently the WRE wallbox.

I look forward to talking again....

Regards, John from Washington State.

[ami-man]

Hello John,

It is good to hear that you have sorted out these jukeboxes and wallbox.

If you want any advice in the furture bye all means please contact me.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[rpucci]

Hi Alan

Can you or someone else tell me on the rowe R-86 where the terminals are for a wallbox speaker connections?There is a terminal strip on top of the cover that houses the power supply and amplifier for the juke.Thanks

Bob

[ami-man]

Hello Bob,

The connection are on the strip on the top of amplifier compartment
They should be marked up as Wall Box Speakers also marked Left CH, Common and Right CH. (connections 5, 6 & 7)
The colours underneath the connection are as follows:-

Left CH Red
Common Black
Right CH Brown

All the information is on page 12 of the manual.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
These cables go into the molex plug & socket on the output package

[Patrick Camden]

Hello,

I'm trying to get a Rowe CD-100 jukebox up and running.  It was from a pub and apparently has been set-up to use external speakers and not the ones inside the jukebox.  Is it relatively straightforward to connect the internal speakers again, or will I need to find someone to have a look?
I've taken some photos which I'll try to upload.  I can trace the wires from the speakers but I'm not 100% where they should be connected.  I've read some posts on here and so I'm guessing that they don't connect to the (pre?) AMP - serial number 61024901 - but instead connect to the board/plate above with the Right/Left channel and E1/E2/E3 etc (there are some wires connected here which have been cut) which from what I've read determines the volume of the speakers.  Is this correct or have I got it completely wrong?

Sorry for the very basic questions or if I've got things embarrassingly wrong

Thanks.

[jdemarti]

Hello Patrick

Yes, the Audio Transformer Block is used to set the maximum amount of wattage for each speaker.

Looks like you have a couple issues. Both the volume control wires and the speaker wires are not hooked up correctly. From what I see, this is what you need to do.  Here is the breakdown

First - the volume control. Do the following on the top row of connectors
- Move the jumper over to the right one position (from Dual channel over to the Stereo position)
- Take the Red wire that is currently hooked up to the bottom right E1 position and connect it up to the jumped connection labeled "Volume".
- Take the black wire that is disconnected (dangling near your A1 connector) and connect it up to "Common"  (next to Volume)
That should fix the volume control knob that is located on the back of the jukebox

Second - the speaker connections. Do this on the bottom row of connectors
-The Black wire on Left E1 is fine
- Take the pink wire that is disconnected near your Left E3 and connect it to the Left E6 or E7. E7 will give you full 128W power. I personally like E6 (64W). Just a preference.
- Take the purple wire that is on Right E2 and move it to either Right E6 or E7 (match it to the same level you had set on the left side)
- For cleanliness, get rid of the cut green wire on Left E6 and the cut red wire on Right E6

Hopefully that will take care of your problem.

[ami-man]

Hello Patrick,

Welcome to the forum.

John is quite correct with regards to the wiring on the output package both for the volume connections and the how to connect up the phono speakers for there maximum output.
The pink and violet phon speaker cables are set to E3 left and right which would have been set for a lower sound, it could be that extension speakers were connected at an higher tapping on the output package.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[roweti1]

Im having trouble with my TI-1. When I first got it the jukebox wouldnt play certain selections. Like if I chose C3 it would play any other C # but 3. However it played every other selection I chose flawlessly. After about a year of use it started to do the same thing on multiple selections. I thought the Selector board was getting dirty so I tried cleaning it with Brasso. After that it wouldnt work at all. No matter what selection the jukebox would keep searching endlessly. I tried taking the whiper off and cleaning that and the board with a pencil eraser to get the polish off and it still didnt work. I found new PCB's online how hard is it to change it? I had the manual but it didnt seem to make sence to me. I am a very handy guy and was an auto mechanic for 15 years so Im fairly certain I can do this. I just need a little help.

[ami-man]

Hello roweti1,

I guess you did not read my posts about cleaning and lubrication on the search unit.

Regarding new pcb's for the search unit on Ebay there is two sellers one in the USA and the other is in Tasmania, I also have a few.

These pcb's were made with a special process where the tracks are compressed into the board, so to the touch the tracks should be flush to the board, if you buy one and it can be felt above the board these have only have been etched and would last less than 6 months. A number of companies tried doing than in the 1980's.

You need to place the seach unit in the position that it would be selecting A1, there is a mark on the front of the pcb with an arrow showing No1 ADJ. This mark is the A1 timing mark (this is all shown in your manual and how to adjust the wipers to this mark).

Remove the spade connections off of the front wiper assembly, undo the machine screw that locks the assembly to the shaft, and pull the assembly off of the shaft. Remove the four 4ba (1/4 AF) screws that hold the pcb in place and pull the pcb off of the shaft.

I suggest that you clean the S1 & S2 open relay contacts with a taper made from paper pulled through the open and closed contacts.

Do not use any spray, WD40, sand paper etc to clean anything on a Rowe Ami jukebox of this era.

Rebuild the search unit as you took it apart and pay attention to the picture in the manual regarding how far to push the wiper assemby back onto the shaft, the contact pressure needs to be correct.

If this is beyond what you can successfully  achieve by all means send the parts to me for installation & testing.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood (ami-man)
Games Unlimited & Datex Systems
Units 4 & 5 Lion Park
New Street
Halfway
Sheffield
S20 3GH
UK

(44) 114 247 0242 phone
(44) 114 251 0727 fax
alan-hood@datex.co.uk

[roweti1]

Thanks you for your reply Alan. The way you explain it makes a lot More sence than the manual. I just had 2 questions should I clean the wiper at all? Also does the jukebox have to be set on anything specific before the wiper is set to A1?

[roweti1]

SO I got home and started checking a few things on the machine. I got curious and I took the plugs off my Board and got my meter. I set it to continuity and I put one lead on each wire coming from the wiper and the other lead where each plug would sit on the board. Then I spun the little wheel that the motor turns. I had continuity all the way around. Is it possible my Board is still ok? I did check what you told me and sure enough each trace on the board is slightly raised. However it still has the part # L-5048. SO next I tried to line the wiper up like you told me but I couldn't find the mark on the board. So I did some digging and found my manual. First I checked the rear wiper by rotating the sprag wheel until the hole was showing then I locked the S2 relay into it, the inside wiper pointed to the JK mark like it was supposed to. Then it said bottom the S1 relay into the Sprag notch. I had to turn it a little counter clockwise to get the relay into the notch. However the short select coil arm wasn't facing up and down yet so I turned it a little more until the coil was facing the 12 and 6 o clock positions. then I set the outside wiper to the bottom left notch like the manual says. then I turned the machine back on and punched in a song. The machine just kept seeking and seeking. Then I tried pushing the S1 relay arm down and it would pick a song the letter portion would be right but not the number. An example would be if I pushed k3 I could get K 1-9. Could it be coincidence that after I cleaned the board something else happened to fail? Am I adjusting it wrong? Heres the directions I was using.....

[ami-man]

Hello roweti1,

The instructions you posted are correct, it is rare to have to adjust the rear wiper because being at the back of the board it is unlikely to be messed around with.

I would clean those contacts with a pencil rubber or one of those fibre glass pencils (used by watch repairers for battery contacts).

Have a close look at your board to make sure that there is no hairline cracks in any of the tracks both on the front and rear of the pcb. If you find a crack as long as it isnt in the slip ring circles then it can be repaired by cleaning the track and soldering a short piece of fuse wire across the break (I use 20 or 30 amp fuse wire tinned before soldering into place) It is not pretty but functional.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[Patrick Camden]

Thank you very much jdemarti and Alan for your help and quick reply.

Sorry for the delay in replying, a few things popped up on what was supposed to be a free weekend to tinker with the jukebox.  Before I changed the wires as suggested I turned the jukebox on to see if everything was still working (It has been on the landing for a few years) and now I have a Ram Error 1 message, CCC may malfunction unless ram corrected.  I've searched online and it may be the battery is low/dead or the CCC unit needs changing.  I've tried to clear errors in the service menu but the final confirm (Popular button) doesn't seem to be going through, so the *Clear Errors* message doesn't flash.

Do I have to change the CCC or the battery (I believe it is soldered on to the CCC unit, or so I've read) or could it be something else caused from powering up the jukebox without the internal speakers wired up, it was working fine previously (apart from speakers).
Is it worth having someone in to take a look, sending parts off to be checked or buying new parts, or would this be something I could attempt to fix on my own first.

Thanks.

[jdemarti]

No problem, Patrick.  Glad we can help.

About your CCC. I recall seeing that RAM problem before and I think that the Eprom may be getting close to malfunctioning. I want to say that the issue went away when I changed the Eprom and the battery, but not 100% sure. 

Alan, what do you think?

The battery is easy to change out; a 5 minute job. All you need is a 2032 battery and battery holder, soldering iron, solder sucker and new solder. I carry the latest v4.3 Eproms. It is a simple plug-in socket connection.

John

[roweti1]

I got home from work today and went back to work on the Jukebox. I had the wiper 180 degrees out of sink, also the contacts on S2 were dirty. After fixing them the Jukebox started playing and picking songs. But I still have the same problems I had before I tried cleaning the PCB..... If you choose any of the T or U selections it plays the record in the position 1 number lower. An example would be if you pushed T6 it would play T5, this happens with both T and U only. Another problem is if I choose  C2 or E2 the carousel makes two full revolutions and just stops.Sometimes if you choose A1 you get the same results... Also If you chose A2 it plays A3, Other than that all the other selections seem to play fine. Occasionally it will play an incorrect song but not often. Maybe out of 30 or 40 plays Ill get one song that I didn't choose. Also an unrelated problem is it seems to be playing a little to fast. 

[ami-man]

Hello roweti1,

On the button bank is two open relays (usually under a plastic cover) open the top door to gain access.
Use a paper taper to clean the open & closed contacts, if this does not cure the fault the issue may be down to the keyboard, however check the long connection on the search unit for alignment of all the tracks, use a meter to check the continuity from each connection back to the keyboard.


If all of the above is ok and your still have issues then you will have to clean the keyboard switches.
I find the best way to do this is to use video head cleaner (I know a spray after all I have said) but if you spay on about 4 of the open switches at a time and work the switches well before the spay dries this will clean the contact surfaces of the switches (switch the jukebox off before doing this).

Please let me know how you get on.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man