Anyone use 1/2" thick sides on fullsize cab?

[Erik]

Seen a few bartops but wondering if anyone has made a big cab with 1/2" plywood or mdf on the sides.  Thanks 

[t3design]

I'm using 5/8" birch ply. Haven't built it yet though. I have a friend who is a cabinet maker and he is sure it is enough.

[Erik]

I'm not so much concerned about the strength, just wondering if 1/2" looks odd

[Epyx]

I have used 1/2" for certain parts of the cab but I wouldn't recommend it for the sides of a full upright.   You won't have as many choices for T Molding for one and you don't have as much depth for mounting your strips via screws.  1/2" works great for Bezels, Coin Doors, speaker shelves, back panels etc.

[javeryh]

I'm not so much concerned about the strength, just wondering if 1/2" looks odd

I would think that it would look disproportionate.  5/8" looks OK though (my DK is 5/8" and it looks great) but I like 3/4" best.

[katrah]

Yeah ill be honest and say it will look cheap, the thicker the wood the more solid it will look, build it to last and it will bud 

[WhereEaglesDare]

What size kind wood would you use for a bartop?  all I can find for MDF around here is the 3/4".  I think that it would be too heavy if portablity is what I want, and it is.

[Epyx]

For a bartop...5/8" for sides and 1/2" for back/speaker shelf/CP.  If you aren't going to laminate then go for 3/4" sides or 5/8" with appropriate T Molding size (5/8").

Most Home Depots carry 1/2", 5/8" and 3/4" MDF...have you tried them?

[FlatEarth]

You must have a lot better Home Depots around you.  In the northwest US (Seattle area, anyway) 5/8" is REALLY hard to come by.

[Epyx]

You must have a lot better Home Depots around you.  In the northwest US (Seattle area, anyway) 5/8" is REALLY hard to come by.

That is odd, considering im in the Pacific Northwest as well...albeit just above you in Vancouver, Canada

Every HD here has the 5/8"...its black laminate that HD here has discontinued

[FlatEarth]

You lucky Canadians!
I actually live in Tacoma, and I have called around to my local stores looking for 5/8" MDF with no luck.  I have pretty well resigned myself to using 3/4" for the sides of my cab and 1/2" for other parts, which should actually work fine.  It is not having the 5/8" for the CP that is trickier, since I cannot get the 3/4" final thickness including plexi without having 5/8" MDF.

[Epyx]

It is not having the 5/8" for the CP that is trickier, since I cannot get the 3/4" final thickness including plexi without having 5/8" MDF.

You could route the bottom of the 3/4" CP to 5/8"...since its the bottom it won't matter if you have some slight streaks of imperfection.  That way the top will be smooth and you can still have the T Molding flush with any plexi/laminate.

[FlatEarth]

That is a good idea, I had not thought of that.
My other thought is to use 3/4" and a CPO from mamemarquees.com and no plexi.  I understand their CPOs are pretty tough, and it is not like it will get really beat up through personal use in my basement.

[TEKNYNE]

Just a note for North Westerners, I am in WA state. Check for a Pro-Build (use to be Lumbermans) They are a northwest chain and typically have everything wood wise, or can get it within about 48 hours. And I am sure they are up there as I remember getting parts for work when I lived in Seattle.

From Walla Walla WA

TEKNYNE

[250 Coupe]

You might give Dunn Lumber a call, I don't have a Pierce County phone book handy and hate online phone lookups (for looking up lumber yards in Tacoma) but Dunn has a location a few miles North of me in Des Moines, (206) 241 0409.

My thoughts on 1/2" sides are that it would be out of proportion in a stand up but be OK in a bartop.

Michael