A "Tully"-copy - Current status: Credit button question

[JDFan]

hmmm, so where exactly is the point of the side pieces, missing one measurement unless I'm blind.

IIRC it was 10.5" for the back measurement ( from back edge 44.5" measure to top of 48" panel) --- It is listed in one of the build threads I'll see if I can find it and verify !!

Found it -- was the Depleted Uranium Build posts 6 and 8 ( http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,142577.0.html ) and my math gave approx 10" but IIRC Louis later replied his was approx 10.5" but that 10" would work - and the top plate is 10" so if you want a small lip in the front you'll want to use 10.5" for that top side cut so it has the 1/2" lip above the 10" top panel in the front of the setup !

[BorgDog]

Thanks!

[johnrt]

I'm currently sanding and filling the Nintendo cab. During breaks I play on my "Tullly". Tonight I set a new record on Arkanoid - Revenge of DoH. For information: I'm not cheating. All DIP switches are set to default.

And btw: This cab is as good as finished. It just needs some artwork. I'm planning on ordering that together with the art for my Nintendo cab.

[johnrt]

Today I received some credit buttons from a french dealer (http://www.joystick-arcade.com/gb/20-boutons-monnayeur-factice-simulation-monnayeur). These seems to be in good quality. They are lit, although with an old fasion 12V lightbulb. However I had some LED replacements I ordered earlier this year for the dashboard on my motorcycle. These fits in these buttons and are 12V also. I also got one button for free since I was their first norwegian customer! 








In photoshop I'm playing around trying to find the most optimal place for these buttons. What do you guys think, like this?


Or like this?


Or like this:


Or maybe like this:

[yamatetsu]

From an aesthetic point of view, I'd say the last one. However, that probably is the worst one for functionality, as the buttons are too far down. A compromise would be the first one.

[johnrt]

From an aesthetic point of view, I'd say the last one. However, that probably is the worst one for functionality, as the buttons are too far down. A compromise would be the first one.

I kind of agree. However, on the Nintendo cab the coin slot is also way down there.

If someone has another suggestion, the photoshop file is available here:
http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/photoshop/tully_creditbutton.zip

[BGoulette]

 

I see faces in everything It's a sickness, really.

Edit: to contribute, I agree with what's been stated above: I like the inline look, but functionally, not sure how annoying that might be. Although it would certainly be an incentive not to die! ("Well, I was going to add another credit, but the button is all the way down there....") ;-)

[opt2not]

Here are a couple suggestions:


Not everything needs to be symmetrical, and having them closer to the marquee within better reach would be nice. I wouldn't go any lower than what you'd see on an Asteroids Cabaret.

A has them on the right side, but it could be on the left side too.

B is for the symmetrical aspect, if you're set on keeping things that way.  It's not my first choice, but I figured to include it as another option to consider. Keeps P1 Coin and P2 Coin separate though... but personally I don't really like it.

[ChanceKJ]

.

[yotsuya]

Hands down Opt's Option "A"

Here are a couple suggestions:


Not everything needs to be symmetrical, and having them closer to the marquee within better reach would be nice. I wouldn't go any lower than what you'd see on an Asteroids Cabaret.

A has them on the right side, but it could be on the left side too.

B is for the symmetrical aspect, if you're set on keeping things that way.  It's not my first choice, but I figured to include it as another option to consider. Keeps P1 Coin and P2 Coin separate though... but personally I don't really like it.

Ditto.

[harveybirdman]

Second thirded

[ChanceKJ]

.

[harveybirdman]

Chance is right, by making the rejects symmetrical you got yourself a Cylon or a gas mask wearing lemur.

[johnrt]

Edit: to contribute, I agree with what's been stated above: I like the inline look, but functionally, not sure how annoying that might be. Although it would certainly be an incentive not to die! ("Well, I was going to add another credit, but the button is all the way down there....") ;-)

You can use your knee! 

And I agree about that speaker grill being a little misplaced. But it's too late to do anything about that now. The front is actually better looking WITHOUT credit buttons. Maybe I should place the credit buttons on the bezel instead?

[ChanceKJ]

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[BadMouth]

I think the coin buttons need a plate behind them.
Either metal or ABS plastic.

If it were me, I'd make a fake coin door where the speaker hole currently is and then mount the speaker elsewhere.
I'd do small metal plates on top a large black plate to mimic the original donkey kong coin door style.
It doesn't have to be a exact replica.  I think your buttons mounted on top of metal rectangles mounted on top of a black square would look good.
EDIT: check out metal access panels at your local hardware store.  They aren't that expensive and would make a convincing coin door that actually opens.


Here is a fake 1-slot setup I made.
The coin return is actually a gutted square button with the top lens painted black and glued in backwards.


Not perfect, but my whole shtick with that cab was using what I had laying around and not spending any money.

[johnrt]

I decided to ditch the coin buttons and go for the CoinUP. I just want to be done with this cab, so I can play it!

[ChanceKJ]

.

[johnrt]

...you've been watching John's videos, haven't you

Yes, but I knew about that one anyway. :-)

I just got an answer from Adam confirming he'll send me a couple of those. (He didn't normally ship internationally)

[opt2not]

Totally forgot about those. Thanks for posting this.