Lighting coin door

[BrianP]

I have the Happ coin door for my cabinet:
http://happcontrols.com/pc/accessories/40071300.htm

It has no mech (which is fine) or lights (bummer).  I was hoping to put some lights behind to coin slots for looks.  Any idea how?  I would rather not have to get another controller just for this.  Don't care too much if they blink or not when coins are added.

Perhaps get a lighted case fan and rip the lights out of it?  There has to be a better way, right?

- brian

[Franco B]

Just wire up a couple of LEDs to a spare molex etc from your PC and point them at the rejects.

I'm not sure why you would go to the trouble of mounting a coin door to your cab when you can't even put coins in though. 

[Ginsu Victim]

I'm not sure why you would go to the trouble of mounting a coin door to your cab when you can't even put coins in though. 

For the genuine look.

[BrianP]

For the genuine look.

That is exactly why I did it.  It looks cool and didn't cost too much (relative to the entire project).

Any idea where to get a couple of LEDs?  I would have no idea about the amp/watt/resistance requirements...

- brian

[Ginsu Victim]

Radio Shack.

I just steal power from my PC PSU.

[Franco B]

I'm not sure why you would go to the trouble of mounting a coin door to your cab when you can't even put coins in though. 

For the genuine look.

Yeah I realise that, I just would have thought that if you are going to the expense and trouble of mounting a coin door you may as well have a functioning one. If your going for genuine, surely you would want it to work too?

I can appreciate that a fully working door would cost more but I bet you could pick up a second hand door and refurb it (if needs be) for cheaper than a dummy door from Happ.

But if it works for the OP then that's fine.

For the genuine look.

Any idea where to get a couple of LEDs?  I would have no idea about the amp/watt/resistance requirements...

- brian

GGG sells individual LEDs but you should be able to pick some up from anywhere. Once you have some and know the specs you can use [this] calculator to work out what resistors etc you need.

 

[Ginsu Victim]

Ultimarc also sells individual LEDs in 5v and 12v, resistors built-in. Ready for power.

[bkenobi]

On my Atari coin doors, the coin mech is required to hold the coin reject button in (actually, it may be the frame that holds the coin mech).  If it's not there, how will you keep people from hitting the button and breaking things?  I think my Atari units are basically identical to HAPP ones from the schematics I've seen.  Just curious.

+1 for Radio Shack

[Ginsu Victim]

bkenobi:

Happ makes a dummy door with a block behind the reject. That's what we're talking about.

[BrianP]

Ultimarc also sells individual LEDs in 5v and 12v, resistors built-in. Ready for power.

Are you talking about the 5 Volt High Intensity LED lamps?
http://www.ultimarc.com/ultralux.html

Or is there something else I didn't see?  I need to order something else from Ultimarc so convenience is good

- brian

[Ginsu Victim]

That's them.

[Epyx]

I used these:

http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=30582&vpn=BP10352&manufacture=Bitspower

That way you don't have any electrical worries/fiddling...just plug and play.

[Ginsu Victim]

that would work nicely for someone without basic wiring skills.

[BrianP]

I used these:

http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=30582&vpn=BP10352&manufacture=Bitspower

That way you don't have any electrical worries/fiddling...just plug and play.

Huh, that would work.  'Course they are $3 each more than the Ultimarc.

Since I am going to wire up my control panel anyway, it wouldn't be hard for me to figure out how to wire the Ultimarc ones.  Hmm, I wonder if Andy would sell the Bayonet-Fit LED holders separately.  That would make mounting (and wiring) easier.  But I might be near the NCIX price then.  Decisions, decisions....

- brian

[Ginsu Victim]

The ultimarc LED holders are made to go in a lighted pushbutton. You need a T 3-1/4 wedge-base lamp holder.

[bkenobi]

bkenobi:

Happ makes a dummy door with a block behind the reject. That's what we're talking about.

Interesting, I didn't know that!   

[Ginsu Victim]

bkenobi:

Happ makes a dummy door with a block behind the reject. That's what we're talking about.

Interesting, I didn't know that!  

There was a link in the first post
http://happcontrols.com/pc/accessories/40071300.htm

[BrianP]

The ultimarc LED holders are made to go in a lighted pushbutton. You need a T 3-1/4 wedge-base lamp holder.

I know, I know I am a newbie pain.....

I think I like the idea of the Ultimarc lights.  I am a little worried about how to mount the ones from NCIX since there doesn't appear to be a simple way to do it.

But, any idea where to get lamp holder?  A google search only shows two site with those for sale which looks like something I could easily wire (with a huge price difference)
http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=23M6656&CMP=AFC-GB100000001
http://www.goodmart.com/products/650674.htm

- brian

[Ginsu Victim]

But, any idea where to get lamp holder?

Talk to Divemaster127, a very reputable vendor here. Click his name to see his profile and send him a message. He has them pretty cheap. Here is his Buy/Sale/Trade post, but he doesn't list them on there.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=47066.0

I'm pretty sure the Happ item number is 42-0351-00D (LAMPHOLDER F/PLASTIC MECH HOLDER). Last time he quoted me 79 cents each, if that's the right item. (It's been a while)

[bkenobi]

Admittedly, I didn't look at the link.  However, now that I look at it, if you hadn't said there was a "block" installed, I wouldn't have been able to tell it was there.  Actually, I only see a bar across the coin reject tray, but nothing on the button.  Ehhh, no worries.   

[Ginsu Victim]

I just meant that it's blocked in a way to keep the reject from falling out.

[Applekid]

But, any idea where to get lamp holder?

Talk to Divemaster127, a very reputable vendor here. Click his name to see his profile and send him a message. He has them pretty cheap. Here is his Buy/Sale/Trade post, but he doesn't list them on there.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=47066.0

I'm pretty sure the Happ item number is 42-0351-00D (LAMPHOLDER F/PLASTIC MECH HOLDER). Last time he quoted me 79 cents each, if that's the right item. (It's been a while)

The only problem I see is that the lampholder hooks into the mech holder which the dummy door doesn't come with. Hard to tell from the picture... but, are those blocks screwed on or riveted? 

[BrianP]

The only problem I see is that the lampholder hooks into the mech holder which the dummy door doesn't come with. Hard to tell from the picture... but, are those blocks screwed on or riveted? 

Hmmm.   Good point, not sure how I would mount these.
http://happcontrols.com/lighting/49094100.htm

And I think I will need to get in touch with Andy to make sure of the socket size of his bulbs.

- brian

[Ginsu Victim]

And I think I will need to get in touch with Andy to make sure of the socket size of his bulbs.

- brian

They are T3-1/4 wedge base

[Finchbyrd]

The lights in my coin doors are instrument panel lights for a car, c161 I believe. Anyway, earlier I wired up my coin doors, easiest "wiring" I've had to do thus far. For my application, I needed a receiving type molex connector, and I just so happened to have a few from some fans from the case that I gutted to install into my cab.  I cut all the wires at the other end of the molex, cut the red/black down to the connector because they wont be used, and left the yellow/black as it was. I had some 22 gauge wire and cut 4 strands to length. I attached some quick disconnects to the opposite ends, and spliced the 2 reds I cut to length together and then wrapped them around the yellow on the molex. I did the same for the black wires I cut and added disconnects to. I had some wire nuts in a drawer so I used them and electrical taped all of it together. Works like a charm. The hardest part was stripping both ends of each wire and adding disconnects. 8 strips and 4 crimps. I took pics but my phone is dead, I'll post them later if anyone needs to see how easy it is. I need to get behind the return buttons because one says 25c and the other says 50c. How can I do this, and modify both to say 50c?

[BrianP]

I took pics but my phone is dead, I'll post them later if anyone needs to see how easy it is.

I'd love to see the pics! 

[mwong168]

Have a look at this video on how to wire up your coin door lights:

http://www.gameroommag.com/retroblast-articles/video-reviews/447-coin-door-lights-super-bright-leds

I was going to wire up some LEDs which I bought from GGG but I was fortunate enough to have the #161 bulbs on my coin door so I just spliced into my computer power supply which works great.

[Finchbyrd]

Here you go. I could have daisy chained them at the lights, but I didn't think of it haha.

[taylormadelv]

I love the way coin rejects look when they are lit up, in fact I don't even bother with coin mechs/switches anymore it's just a PITA for me to keep inserting coins and scooping them up. I have used 12V auto bulbs from WalMart and connected them to a standard 12V/300MA AC adaptor and they look great and I leave the lights on 24/7 with no problems. Standard arcade bulbs are the wrong voltage for the AC adaptor I use but the auto bulbs fit nicely.

[Finchbyrd]

How can I pop the buttons off and change the labels on the reject buttons?

[taylormadelv]

Looking at that "fake" coin door, I don't think you can get the coin reject buttons out like a real coin door. I see rivits and not screws holding the buttons in. Find a "real" coin door mb?