No misunderstandings here, Steve.
SO, you are saying that ALL people do not Misunderstand how Leaf buttons
work best? Funny, because just YESTURDAY I had an old KungFu student drop
by for a visit... and he played a couple games of Asteroids Deluxe - and commented
on how tired his fingers were getting. Then I explained the trick to them... and
immediately he played better with no abnormal fatigue. Also, I was once part of the
Ignorant group. And I assure you... that grouping is Very large.
The new sticks directly from HAPP use a microswitch (with a spring of it's own) and a long piece of beefy spring steel, which acts as a return for the trigger.
That was already stated.
The reason it was designed like this is due to the environment they were meant for. It only takes a tiny bit of gunk in the socket where the trigger part pivots and then it will no longer pivot well.
HUH?! AFAIK, the trigger Pivot is at the Top-most point, where its very hard to
gunk up. Not only that... but the Leaf spring is Not in front of that part, nor protecting
that so called Gunk from the pivot point of the trigger.
Unless you are speaking about the Microswitch actuator itself. Which considering
your wording.. does not seem to match up Imop.
I did mention Protecting the switch from abuse. Sure, I didnt mention Gunk... but
to me, thats very obvious and logical anyways.
As gunk is a norm for arcade controls, this would have meant down time and lost revenue. In one's home, this level of "bulletproof" isn't really necessary, so one can reasonably use parts which afford a bit more comfort.
Comfort was not mentioned in my argument. Speed of rapidly repeated
actuation's were.
Also, your 1mm reset distance is way off. Even a normal Cherry pushbutton switch is about 2/3rds of that,
Actually, what was meant is that the Micros have to travel at least a full
MM distance from actuation to reset for one button push cycle. EVERY TIME.
Its pretty much easy for anyone to clearly see this. Even IF you get the switch to
actuate in the upper range... Due to the nature of the internal spring, it is
impossible to keep it from snapping Past that point and going the full travel,
and needing again to travel all the way back up - as again... its not feasable to
try to stop the micro at a paper thin point right before actuation.
So, no matter how you slice it... you will always be limited to at least 1mm travel
on standard micros for each press... and maybe 1/2 mm travel for your micro leafs at
best.
A Leaf can be an onion skin away from contact, and vibrating it on and off takes
little more than a feather touch. No hard pressure (resistance) Mouse trap style Snap Spring to overcome at each press.
and the "Micro-Leaf" style are about half of the Cherry's. The biggest challenge with a microswitch is finding that point where quick oscillation of the snap trigger is possible and keeping the button pressed to that point consistantly. If one could "pre-load" the actuation so it sat at that exact distance at the highest point of the plunger travel, rapid oscillation would be much easier. The Micro-Leaf switches do this to a good extent, which is why they are so popular.
The internal Snap Spring is designed in such a way that it will last a long time, and
give very positive reaction. When one tries to Modify that action, by adding spacers
to tighten up the spring travel... basically, they are more likely to reduce the springs
lifespan for accurate snap. It will flatten out quickly and become worthless.
The better idea, IMOP, would be to use leafs with a limited travel button
assembly, that has a definite bottom. So the leafs would not over-bend.
Or maybe a Harder coil spring Under the leaf which acts as energy return,
as well as keeping the switch from getting destroyed (and providing a smoother
feel instead of a hard crash from Bottoming out)
All of that is pretty much a moot point in this discussion though, as one still needs to overcome the heavy resistance of that original return spring, which will cause a good deal of fatigue whether it is being held or depressed, leaf or no leaf. Getting rid of that resistance may, as I stated, be desireable to many.
RandyT
Admittedly, As far as I remember the triggers on the heavy duty sticks were a bit
much pressure. Then again, I recall playing tron on the higher stages and
it working incredibly well... which was really needed considering how fast the
MCP cone gets. Im not so sure microleafs could attain that level of speed needed to
perform that well on those higher levels. ...But... to each his own.
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